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Go Back   Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum > 6.7 Liter Cummins > 6.7L Non-Powertrain
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6.7L Non-Powertrain Discussion of Accessories, Interior, everything not power related...NO ADVERTISING

 


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Old 11-02-2009, 10:36 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ant.foste View Post
Why do you recommend to tie it into the other doors, instead of the drivers door?
So that the "Driver's Door 1st" setting remains just that. It will still work the other way, but kind of defeats the whole concept.

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Originally Posted by ant.foste View Post
The instructions that came with mine (I got it last week)

........

Your instructions say all that or are these the new instructions? I'm not a fan of piercing wires just to check them out. Is there a connection that's easy to access under there while trying to tap into the door lock wires?
I found that the instructions I got with mine were dated several years prior. (There should be a date code in one of the corners of the page.) I even went online to get the latest PDF and the colors were still somewhat incorrect.

I'd like to point out, though, that it's not necessary to pierce the wires to test them. By using the multimeter probes into the back side of the harness under the dash, you can do all the tests. Maybe it was luck, or years of experience playing with wiring, but I tested all the wires in the harness, and located the ones needed in about 5 minutes. Just identify the ones that pulse with either the lock or unlock signal. (Try both directions for each wire.) I don't have the colors written down, but there are wiring diagrams online that will give you the color codes and pin positions of the respective wires.

Another note. If I recall correctly, the instruction stated to remove the kick panel and tie into the wires there. That's a pain, and totally unnecessary. Like I said, just go straight to the connector under the dash. Much easier to work with.

(I'll try to find that link to the wiring diagrams.)
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Old 11-02-2009, 10:40 PM   #38 (permalink)
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Here are the links. You'll have to dig through the docs a bit, but if you're like me, that won't be much of a chore. I could spend all day reading the manuals to discover little quirks to the design.

For the 2008 models: http://www.dodge.com/bodybuilder/2008/intro.pdf

For your 2009: http://www.dodge.com/bodybuilder/2009/intro.pdf
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Old 11-03-2009, 09:21 PM   #39 (permalink)
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Well what do you know, one of my clamps rattled itself loose. That biotch was on there TIGHT too. Hopefully this doesn't turn into a regular occurance and I can just chalk it up to the weatherstrip breaking in.
One of my clamps fell off after about 200 miles. The other 3 were loose as well. I'll check them again this weekend, but it's time for some loc-tite. I think I'll contact the company to suggest they include a small tube with their covers.
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Old 11-04-2009, 02:53 PM   #40 (permalink)
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One of my clamps fell off after about 200 miles. The other 3 were loose as well. I'll check them again this weekend, but it's time for some loc-tite. I think I'll contact the company to suggest they include a small tube with their covers.
Post here afterwards. They might have some recomendations other than loctite.
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Old 11-04-2009, 06:30 PM   #41 (permalink)
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So I went over to the local line-x place and asked about getting the bolted-on siderails for the ATV kit line-x'd. We went back and forth and compared things and mocked the rails up. We agreed that even with the thickness of the line-x, the rails and the 'keep you from driving over the other side' bars would still work just fine.

He said he'd do them for $100 the next time he had a truck in the booth as he thought I already had my bed line-x'd. I asked how much to line-x my bed over the rails and the bars. He said $525 as long as I pull out the factory plastic liner.

Sound like a good deal? $525 for an 8' bed, over the rail?

Oh, I have no idea WTF diamondback did, but you know the carriage bolts and nuts that come preinstalled onto the rods? I think the nuts are some sort of interferance thread so they don't back out because I ended up breaking most of them pulling them out of the rods. Line-x guy wanted them removed and the aluminum primered before he'd do his thing. Major pain in the arse breaking all them carriage bolts.
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Old 11-05-2009, 11:54 AM   #42 (permalink)
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I sent an email to DiamondBack, will post their recommendations.

I paid ~$500 to Line-X my short box (over the rail). $550 for a long box sounds good to me.
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Old 11-07-2009, 02:39 PM   #43 (permalink)
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Ok, so I decided against the line-x for now. I really just don't want to spend the money on it. The next purchases for me are Carli airbags, tanks and compressor(s) and a Suncoast trans. Line-x hasn't been anywhere near the top of the list since I bought the truck.

So I bolted up the side rails for the ATV package today. Looking back there is one major thing I would've done differently and here it is so listen up guys who haven't done this.

LAY DOWN A CHALK LINE!

I had thought about it before I started but got a little impatient and went without it. Lesson learned. I'm a little OCD and would have preferred the rails to be perfectly aligned with each other. But alas, since I got impatient (got tired of not having them on the truck yet) I installed them w/o chalklines and they're not quite perfectly lined up with each other.

Would most people notice? Probably. Do I notice? Of course.
Would most people care? Doubt it. Do I care? I do.

Too late now though. What's done is done as all the holes are already drilled. With a chalkline I could've had all the holes perfectly in line with each other which would've resulted in perfectly aligned bars.

/end disappointed rant

Since I decided against the Line-X, but had already primered the rods (white primer) I need to go to home depot and pick up some black paint. I'm really thinking that for now, if the paint scratches off then so be it. I'll just touch it up as needed until I really feel like getting everything line-x'd. Once they're painted black and I assemble the "don't drive over the other side" guards it'll be all done.

Oh, also while piddling around with all that I tightened up the clamps and readjusted the lock rods. One clamp was obviously loose and the other three were still in place, but definately not tight. I tightened them back up and moved onto the lock rods. As this weatherstrip is smashing down, the rods aren't hitting properly. Got the rear readjusted to my liking, if not a wee bit tight. I figure it'll settle some more and end up right where I want it. Something I've noticed on the front though is that my weatherstripping isn't even touching the bed rails. I'm blaming that on the factory bed liner which in the front goes "over the rail" so to speak. It's keeping the front panel from coming all the way down to the bedrails on the sides but is good and tight on the bedliner. I'm trying to figure out a way to cut that bit of bedliner off without the risk of cutting into the bed. Any ideas? Seems too thick to even bother using a sharp utility knife.

While I was out there I went ahead and started to install the power tailgate locker thing. Very neat and simple little device and I'm already in love with it. I'm working from the rear forwards so the only thing I've accomplished thus far is the tailgate portion. I still need to run the wire from the tailgate up into the cab and get the electrics tied in. I got hungry as I haven't eaten yet today (haven't slept yet either, that's another story) so here I am taking a lunch break.
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Old 11-07-2009, 05:53 PM   #44 (permalink)
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Tailgate lock is finished. That thing is neat. Extremely simple yet effective and looks completely stock since it's hidden.

Dan, I did like you did and tied it into the other 3 doors. Seemed like a pretty good idea once I started thinking about it some more. I found that white connector sort of below the trailer brake connector and just started back probing while hitting the lock and unlock buttons on the key fob. Worked like a charm.
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Old 11-07-2009, 08:28 PM   #45 (permalink)
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One complaint I have about my cover is the hinges are rusting after just 6 months. I wish I had ordered the Line-x'd version.
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Old 11-09-2009, 06:36 PM   #46 (permalink)
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One complaint I have about my cover is the hinges are rusting after just 6 months. I wish I had ordered the Line-x'd version.
Line-X'd version doesnt' change anything about the hinges. The line-x is applied, then the hinges are bolted on.

Thanks for the heads up though. If I start to notice them getting rusty I'll take 'em off, sandblast them and paint them black. Or something. I'll deal with it if it happens.
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Old 11-09-2009, 10:45 PM   #47 (permalink)
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Anthony,

I have two Herculiner (do it yourself LineX) kits in my garage. I was going to Herculiner my bed. That would work perfectly for the rails. Give me a shout we can work out something.
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Old 11-13-2009, 03:59 PM   #48 (permalink)
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Anthony,

I have two Herculiner (do it yourself LineX) kits in my garage. I was going to Herculiner my bed. That would work perfectly for the rails. Give me a shout we can work out something.
I painted them with a black, oil-based enamel. Now that they've dried completely I really like the look. I need to take them off and put on another coat but they turned out nicer than I expected.
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