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6.7L Non-Powertrain Discussion of Accessories, Interior, everything not power related...NO ADVERTISING

 


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Old 10-23-2009, 12:06 PM   #25 (permalink)
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I just ordered one Thursday, can't wait to get it.
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DiamondBack HD Cover
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Old 10-24-2009, 08:57 PM   #26 (permalink)
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I finally got my cover, but since it mine is 3rd gen, pics are here
Diamondback cover
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Old 10-25-2009, 09:48 AM   #27 (permalink)
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Thumbs up

Quote:
Originally Posted by sfinx4x4 View Post
I finally got my cover, but since it mine is 3rd gen, pics are here
Diamondback cover
That looks sweet! Now I'm wishing I got the Line-X version. Oh well, I can always get it sprayed later I guess.
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Old 10-25-2009, 05:02 PM   #28 (permalink)
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hope this works

here is mine. hope it helps
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Old 11-01-2009, 11:40 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Mine showed up Friday. Here's some pics:







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Old 11-02-2009, 06:22 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Well what do you know, one of my clamps rattled itself loose. That biotch was on there TIGHT too. Hopefully this doesn't turn into a regular occurance and I can just chalk it up to the weatherstrip breaking in.

I finally opened up the ATV kit today. I'm not too pleased that everything in there is shiny. I wish the line-x package on the cover applied to the atv kit as well. I don't think black paint will hold up so well. Any thoughts on powdercoating or annodizing? I want them black.
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Old 11-02-2009, 06:39 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by ant.foste View Post
Well what do you know, one of my clamps rattled itself loose. That biotch was on there TIGHT too. Hopefully this doesn't turn into a regular occurance and I can just chalk it up to the weatherstrip breaking in.

I finally opened up the ATV kit today. I'm not too pleased that everything in there is shiny. I wish the line-x package on the cover applied to the atv kit as well. I don't think black paint will hold up so well. Any thoughts on powdercoating or annodizing? I want them black.
Can you have your local Line X just spray those for you, so you have a uniform finish? Thats what I'd do, assuming the line X wont mess up tolerances for hinges, mounting, etc.
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Old 11-02-2009, 09:39 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Can you have your local Line X just spray those for you, so you have a uniform finish? Thats what I'd do, assuming the line X wont mess up tolerances for hinges, mounting, etc.
That was a thought, but I'm thinking it will blow the tolerances out. I do have a line-x place about five minutes away so I'll probably go talk to them sometime this week to get their opinion.

I've had this cover on for two weeks now and have already had 3 people wait in parking lots to ask me about it. I need to hurry up and put on my power tailgate lock before I come out of someplace and my cover is gone.

Still haven't put the ATV kit on though.
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Old 11-02-2009, 09:43 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Oh, and the perfect companion to the diamondback cover, if you want to keep it yours- The power pop and lock- Pop N Lock Tailgate Lock

It ties into your door locks with the included harness. You lock the truck with the keyfob or door lock switch, and it locks the tailgate. You unlock the truck with the keyfob or door lock switch and it unlocks the tailgate. Completely hidden and looks very easy to install.
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Old 11-02-2009, 10:10 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Completely hidden and looks very easy to install.
I installed one on mine last fall, and you're right, it is quite easy. The hardest part was cleanly running the wires to the cab (not that hard), and then finding the correct wires to tie into at the body harness. The instructions that came with the unit were outdated, so their color codes weren't correct. Fortunately, I didn't rely on those, and used a multimeter to ensure I got the right wires. It worked perfectly the first time. (Yay for me.)

There are 3 wires related to the power locks. One is for the driver's door, one is for the rest of the doors, and the last one is the return/common. My recommendation is to use the "other doors" wire and obviously the return. For those inquiring minds, the driver's door wire is so that you can have the first press of the remote unlock just the driver's door, and a second press to unlock the rest. (See the user settings on the overhead display.)
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Old 11-02-2009, 10:18 PM   #35 (permalink)
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With regards to the issue of the rubber seals sticking. I had a similar problem with my cover. It's not the same as the unit in question, but I think the technology will transfer.

I had issues, especially in the winter, with the seals sticking. Line-X exacerbated the problem. It reached a point where I ended up with a tear in the rubber seal at the tailgate. Rather than replace the gasket right away, I carefully wrapped the seal (along the entire length) with black duct tape. The intent was to delay replacing the rubber, but I discovered that not only does the seal work as well as it did before (leak-free), but the duct tape does not end up sticking to the box! Now, the tailgate opens and closes more easily, and there no more risk of further damaging the rubber.

You can try that. It's a non-destructive solution. If you don't like it, take the tape off. If you apply it carefully, nobody will ever notice the mod.
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Last edited by Dan V : 11-02-2009 at 10:21 PM.
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Old 11-02-2009, 10:18 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Quote:
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I installed one on mine last fall, and you're right, it is quite easy. The hardest part was cleanly running the wires to the cab (not that hard), and then finding the correct wires to tie into at the body harness. The instructions that came with the unit were outdated, so their color codes weren't correct. Fortunately, I didn't rely on those, and used a multimeter to ensure I got the right wires. It worked perfectly the first time. (Yay for me.)

There are 3 wires related to the power locks. One is for the driver's door, one is for the rest of the doors, and the last one is the return/common. My recommendation is to use the "other doors" wire and obviously the return. For those inquiring minds, the driver's door wire is so that you can have the first press of the remote unlock just the driver's door, and a second press to unlock the rest. (See the user settings on the overhead display.)
Why do you recommend to tie it into the other doors, instead of the drivers door?

The instructions that came with mine (I got it last week)-
Quote:
2. WIRING: Remove the drivers side kick panel and locate the wiring harness leading to the drivers side door. Locate the TAN/PINK striped and the TAN/2 ORANGE stripes wires located along the firewall and the parking brake. Attach the two blue wire taps to the and squeeze them shut with a pair of pliers.

NOTE: '04 Models- wires are TAN/LIGHT GREEN striped and LIGHT GREEN located in the drivers step place and kick pane.

'05 Models and up- wires are TAN/2 GREEN strips and SOLID GREEN or LIGHT GREEN, or TAN/PINK stripe and TAN/2 ORANGE stripes.
Your instructions say all that or are these the new instructions? I'm not a fan of piercing wires just to check them out. Is there a connection that's easy to access under there while trying to tap into the door lock wires?
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