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EGT Probe Connector Disassembly

26K views 35 replies 13 participants last post by  ken white 
#1 · (Edited)
While sitting around waiting for a rain squall to pass I decided to tinker with taking apart the EGT probe connectors, I have no idea why anyone would want to take one of these apart. :D :lol2:

The tools I used - bear in mind that I'm just a guy in a garage using whatever I have in my box, the drillbit is a #55 not pictured is a razor blade for cutting the heat shrink.



First remove the heat shrink. (For replacement I used 3/4" dual wall adhesive lined moisture resistant heat shrink from a local electronics store)




Next remove the plastic cap on the back of the connector, pictured below is the latch that holds it on and there are about a dozen ways to pop it off.



After the cap comes the seal, easily removed with needle nose pliers or a dental pick.



To remove the orange 'holder' from the front of the connector use the #55 drill (or something of similar size) and push on the orange tab from inside the back of the connector.







Once the orange 'holder' is out of the way the pins can be removed by lifting the tab (the dental pick works well for this) holding them in from the front while gently tugging on the wire from the back.





When finished you should have this...



For reference the pins are much easier to solder regular wire to with traditional soldering methods.

I have no idea why anyone would want to do this unless a rain squall happens to be keeping you from your wood chipping. :D
 
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#3 ·
very nice writeup. I dunno why you would do this to put in resistors (for a DIY DPF delete). I just cut the outside jacket, stripped the insulation and soldered on the resistors between each wire. If I ever need to go back to stock (heaven forbid) all I have to do is melt the solder and remove the resistors.

maybe there's enough room for a resistor in the pulg - maybe not, I dunno.....
 
#4 ·
Resistors upto 1/2 watt will fit inside housing.

I got my hands on some other probes rather than removing the ones from my DPF, at some point I want to modify the probes to appear to be stock to work with a hollowed out DPF... if I ever find someone who wants to sell me a DPF and isn't demanding an arm and a leg for it.
 
#5 ·
good to know. I've got a 1 watt on the 1st EGT & 1/2 watt on the next two.

Tis gonna be hard to find someone willing to let their DPF go (for a decent price). My suggestion is to talk to dealerships..... I don't know exactly what they do with cracked DPFs - but I've seen a ton of them here at our small dealership.... if you've got a good relationship with one maybe they would sell one to you for cheap? Prolly not - but might be worth the effort?
 
#32 ·
P/N 5149085AC are the EGT temp sensors from one of the mopar online parts store. I just ordered 3 so i could cut my old ones up and have a set for my old exhaust incase i have to go back to the dealer.
 
#11 ·
so what is this little trick going to accomplish?
 
#14 ·
isnt this the main idea--to fool 1 st egt probe that exhaust is hot enough to burn soot effectivly-----that will prevent regen-----or is this not the main concern?---wont a programmer usually run hotter exh temps and stop or slow regens? i want to run edge for mpg and performance difference---
 
#15 ·
As I understand it the deal with the EGT sims is to fool the ECM into seeing that the exhaust is too hot for a safe regen, I believe that fooling the ECM into believing that effective passive regen parameters are being met requires a box something like the Bay Area Gen2 box.

I haven't tried just one sim on the front EGT probe, living and commuting in the busier part of California I cant risk a regen cycle starting due to my experimenting.
 
#26 · (Edited)
But if the exhaust temperatures are too high, won't the truck use more EGR to try and reduce NOX? This seems like soot would now be a problem if the EGR was not removed or disconnected. These two emission systems appear to be isolated but they both appear to use the EGT information during operation. I would think the DPF pressure sensors would be very important too.

I need to do some testing before I pull my stuff...
 
#18 ·
I am pretty sure I understand the setup! but just want to double check before i go do this. you guys said you put a 1K ohm resistor on first pyro plug, then a 680 ohm on the next two? then you weld in two o2 sensor bungs in new pipe in roughly same location as stock? do you unplug pressure sensor hoses and leave it plugged in electrically? Thanks guys just trying to specify
 
#19 ·
I am pretty sure I understand the setup! but just want to double check before i go do this. you guys said you put a 1K ohm resistor on first pyro plug, then a 680 ohm on the next two? Yes that is correct. then you weld in two o2 sensor bungs in new pipe in roughly same location as stock? Correct again! And if you're going to a 5" system don't put your O2 sensors right on the top - it can create clearance issues - needless to say to say, test fit everything :thumbsup do you unplug pressure sensor hoses and leave it plugged in electrically? Initialy I pulled off the metal pressure sensor tubes from the rubber hoses and left them to the open. But I was getting the overhead dinging at me saying service was required every 10min (not a real problem - but annoying). Another member suggested unplugging the box.....and so far it's worked - no dinging and no ill effects. Thanks guys just trying to specify
So good luck man and let us know how it works!
BTW - are you doing a full EGR/Cooler delete also?
 
#27 ·
EGT.


ken white said:
But if the exhaust temperatures are too high, won't the truck use more EGR to try and reduce NOX? This seems like soot would now be a problem if the EGR was not removed or disconnected. These two emission systems appear to be isolated but they both appear to use the EGT information during operation. I would think the DPF pressure sensors would be very important too.
It is my opinion that system performance will vary widely depending on the flash version on the ECM of the truck in question hence the wide variety of results from the various delete kit setups.
 
#29 ·
Hmm

Alright, I'm not the smartest man in the world. I just want to make this clear. That kit is 9 bucks at the dealer?
 
#34 ·
might have a lead on that one, I'm checking to see if the mating connectors are available. I'll be producing Sims for the EGT sensors (for sale through K2 pretty soon) and I have had requests to do the Pressure sensor one as well. Took me frickin forever to find out who made that one, coincidentally I found out the same company makes the EGR connector too, my previous efforts to locate that one went fruitless as well.
 
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