Another voltage drop?

robinson2070 · 10-13-2009, 03:02 AM

Today, for the first time since I've had the truck i got the voltage drop that many have talked about. The voltages went up higher than 14 which was strange and then dropped back down alot ( in about 10 second intervals). My lights dimmed and everything. The weird part is I had to sit and weight for the heater to warm up before I started and this morning it was near 60 degrees. What's even weirder is the first crank it was like my battery was dead, the second crank the truck fired but it shut back off after about 5 seconds. Tried to start it again, wouldn't start just sat there and cranked. Gave it a minute and the thing fired right up like no problem at all. But I did Get a CEL. Does anyone know what this could be?

Jim W · 10-13-2009, 09:23 AM

I am not sure about your CEL, you will need to find the code for the CEL. This will tells us what the issue is.
Per your owners manual the GRID heaters will become active at 60F and lower. You need to wait before starting your truck until the grid heater symbol is off. You can then start the truck and the grid heater will cycle on and off until either of these events occur. One the engine is warmed up enough for the grid heater to turn off. The other condition that will turn the grid heater off, is to engage the transmission and drive.
There is a lot of information in the O and M guide that will help you own and operate your CTD.

__________________
2008 3/4T, Mega Cab SLT, 6.7L CTD 68RFE,Optix Gauges Pyro, Boost, Trans Temp A Piller mount, Mag-Hytec Trans Pan, Front & Rear Diff cover,Smarty, MBRP Exhaust, Silver, Westin Side Steps, Line-X Bed Liner, Bed Cover, Prodigy BC, 15K Reese hitch and pulling a 11K 5er

***dad2bike*** · 10-13-2009, 09:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jim W

I am not sure about your CEL, you will need to find the code for the CEL. This will tells us what the issue is.
Per your owners manual the GRID heaters will become active at 60F and lower. You need to wait before starting your truck until the grid heater symbol is off. You can then start the truck and the grid heater will cycle on and off until either of these events occur. One the engine is warmed up enough for the grid heater to turn off. The other condition that will turn the grid heater off, is to engage the transmission and drive.
There is a lot of information in the O and M guide that will help you own and operate your CTD.

Pretty much covers it. Good post.

__________________
Tom
2008 Quad-Cab,LB, 2500, 6.7L, 4X4, White/Kaki, Big-Horn, 3.73 Auto, AS flash, K&N Air Filter, no baffle, Testing in progress- step 4, Stealth DPF, Smarty sw3 PMT gauges. Mag-Hytec Pan & Diff covers.Toms smarty Journal ....... DIY Deletes How-To

Stealth is the WORD!

robinson2070 · 10-13-2009, 10:30 PM

that's what baffled me is that the grid heater symbol was off went I started it the first time.

__________________
08' 2500 6.7L CTD Laramie, Black, Automatic, mainly stock, EGR Unplugged, DPF/EGR gone!!. Straight Piped.

robinson2070 · 10-13-2009, 10:33 PM

Thanks for the help though guys. The CEL has went off by itself since then. I guess it quiting on me was just a flub. I'll let you all know if it happens again.

__________________
08' 2500 6.7L CTD Laramie, Black, Automatic, mainly stock, EGR Unplugged, DPF/EGR gone!!. Straight Piped.

robinson2070 · 10-16-2009, 02:20 AM

well, it happened again this morning. did my normal thing, waited for the grid heater symbol to go off. Tried to crank the truck and it acted as if the battery was dead, waited a few seconds until it got closer to 14 volts and it started up. It ran for a whole about 3 seconds, and the truck shut itself back off. Tried to start it back up and acted as if the battery was dead again. Waited a few more seconds for the batter needle to climb a little closer towards 14 and the thing started right up and stayed running. It's like when the grid heater is on it sucks out all my battery life or something. Do I have a bad battery or could it be somethin else? Thanks for the help guys?

__________________
08' 2500 6.7L CTD Laramie, Black, Automatic, mainly stock, EGR Unplugged, DPF/EGR gone!!. Straight Piped.

Espeefan · 10-16-2009, 02:27 AM

You could very well have a bad battery. The best way to figure that out would be to load test each one, separately. Be sure to disconnect the cables that tie them parallel to one another. If you don't have a load tester, check around for a battery retailer, or auto parts store that might be able to do the tests for free. Or take it to the dealer.

One bad battery will definitely drag down a good one. I hear these trucks are really sensitive to low voltages.

That's the first place I would look.

Also, just a little tid bit. Ocassionally the heater grids will cycle a short while, even on warmer days then 60 degrees. Just kind of depends how cold the previous night was, how long since the truck was started, and other little variables. In 60 degree weather, you really don't need to let the grid cycle at all, if you don't want. If you have a bad battery, starting the truck as soon as you put the key in, to avoid the heat cycle should result in a fast start up, if one or both of the batteries are getting dragged down to much by the current draw of the heater grid. Let us know what you find out.

__________________
2001.5 Ram, 24 valve H.O. Cummins 6 speed manual, 4x4

2009 Ram, 6.7 Cummins, 6 speed manual, 4x4

robinson2070 · 10-16-2009, 11:16 PM

Yeah, I already changed one battery a few months ago I guess it's time to change the other one. That's all It is I'm pretty sure. Thanks for the help.

__________________
08' 2500 6.7L CTD Laramie, Black, Automatic, mainly stock, EGR Unplugged, DPF/EGR gone!!. Straight Piped.

kevinc2004 · 10-16-2009, 11:32 PM

You should change the batteries at the same time. If one is dying from old age, The other one is not far behind it. As soon as I get my first slow start, I will replace both batteries in my 2007 with the largest ones that will fit in the boxes.

__________________
2007.5, 6.7 turbo 3500 drw 4X4 (6X6)quad cab longbed. Bone Stock

ken white · 10-17-2009, 10:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by robinson2070

Yeah, I already changed one battery a few months ago I guess it's time to change the other one. That's all It is I'm pretty sure. Thanks for the help.

Check and clean your battery and ground connections too...

__________________
__________________________________________________ ______________________________
2008 Quad Cab 3500, 4x4, Long Bed, DRW, G56, 3.73's, Line-X, P3, lots of camper upgrades...

robinson2070 · 10-17-2009, 06:17 PM

Ok, Thanks for the help guys I'm gonna clean my terminals and such and wait for another cold start to see if it happens again, If it does i'll just get another battery. If it still does it then I'm not done with you all yet haha.

__________________
08' 2500 6.7L CTD Laramie, Black, Automatic, mainly stock, EGR Unplugged, DPF/EGR gone!!. Straight Piped.

48kenworth · 10-17-2009, 10:19 PM

Always replace batteries in pairs and promptly one bad battery can kill the other.that kinda sucks when you are in the middle of a cow pasture and alone

__________________
1:07 3500 6.7L G56 4x4 dually quad cab 2"hbs leveling kit DPF-R gutted downpipe converter & qaudzilla boost fooler,255/80/17 bfg km2's
2:07 3500 5.9L auto 2wd dually mega cab silencer ring mia

10-13-2009, 03:02 AM	#1 (permalink)
robinson2070 Cummins Fanatic Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Corbin, Kentucky Posts: 134 Thanks: 11 Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts robinson2070's Truck Pics	Another voltage drop? Today, for the first time since I've had the truck i got the voltage drop that many have talked about. The voltages went up higher than 14 which was strange and then dropped back down alot ( in about 10 second intervals). My lights dimmed and everything. The weird part is I had to sit and weight for the heater to warm up before I started and this morning it was near 60 degrees. What's even weirder is the first crank it was like my battery was dead, the second crank the truck fired but it shut back off after about 5 seconds. Tried to start it again, wouldn't start just sat there and cranked. Gave it a minute and the thing fired right up like no problem at all. But I did Get a CEL. Does anyone know what this could be?

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10-13-2009, 09:23 AM	#2 (permalink)
Jim W Cummins Enthusiast Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Oswego IL Posts: 229 Thanks: 0 Thanked 23 Times in 16 Posts Jim W's Truck Pics	I am not sure about your CEL, you will need to find the code for the CEL. This will tells us what the issue is. Per your owners manual the GRID heaters will become active at 60F and lower. You need to wait before starting your truck until the grid heater symbol is off. You can then start the truck and the grid heater will cycle on and off until either of these events occur. One the engine is warmed up enough for the grid heater to turn off. The other condition that will turn the grid heater off, is to engage the transmission and drive. There is a lot of information in the O and M guide that will help you own and operate your CTD. __________________ 2008 3/4T, Mega Cab SLT, 6.7L CTD 68RFE,Optix Gauges Pyro, Boost, Trans Temp A Piller mount, Mag-Hytec Trans Pan, Front & Rear Diff cover,Smarty, MBRP Exhaust, Silver, Westin Side Steps, Line-X Bed Liner, Bed Cover, Prodigy BC, 15K Reese hitch and pulling a 11K 5er

10-13-2009, 10:30 PM	#4 (permalink)
robinson2070 Cummins Fanatic Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Corbin, Kentucky Posts: 134 Thanks: 11 Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts robinson2070's Truck Pics	that's what baffled me is that the grid heater symbol was off went I started it the first time. __________________ 08' 2500 6.7L CTD Laramie, Black, Automatic, mainly stock, EGR Unplugged, DPF/EGR gone!!. Straight Piped.

10-13-2009, 10:33 PM	#5 (permalink)
robinson2070 Cummins Fanatic Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Corbin, Kentucky Posts: 134 Thanks: 11 Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts robinson2070's Truck Pics	Thanks for the help though guys. The CEL has went off by itself since then. I guess it quiting on me was just a flub. I'll let you all know if it happens again. __________________ 08' 2500 6.7L CTD Laramie, Black, Automatic, mainly stock, EGR Unplugged, DPF/EGR gone!!. Straight Piped.

10-16-2009, 02:20 AM	#6 (permalink)
robinson2070 Cummins Fanatic Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Corbin, Kentucky Posts: 134 Thanks: 11 Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts robinson2070's Truck Pics	well, it happened again this morning. did my normal thing, waited for the grid heater symbol to go off. Tried to crank the truck and it acted as if the battery was dead, waited a few seconds until it got closer to 14 volts and it started up. It ran for a whole about 3 seconds, and the truck shut itself back off. Tried to start it back up and acted as if the battery was dead again. Waited a few more seconds for the batter needle to climb a little closer towards 14 and the thing started right up and stayed running. It's like when the grid heater is on it sucks out all my battery life or something. Do I have a bad battery or could it be somethin else? Thanks for the help guys? __________________ 08' 2500 6.7L CTD Laramie, Black, Automatic, mainly stock, EGR Unplugged, DPF/EGR gone!!. Straight Piped.

10-16-2009, 02:27 AM	#7 (permalink)
Espeefan Cummins Nut Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Wisconsin Posts: 342 Thanks: 25 Thanked 7 Times in 7 Posts Espeefan's Truck Pics	You could very well have a bad battery. The best way to figure that out would be to load test each one, separately. Be sure to disconnect the cables that tie them parallel to one another. If you don't have a load tester, check around for a battery retailer, or auto parts store that might be able to do the tests for free. Or take it to the dealer. One bad battery will definitely drag down a good one. I hear these trucks are really sensitive to low voltages. That's the first place I would look. Also, just a little tid bit. Ocassionally the heater grids will cycle a short while, even on warmer days then 60 degrees. Just kind of depends how cold the previous night was, how long since the truck was started, and other little variables. In 60 degree weather, you really don't need to let the grid cycle at all, if you don't want. If you have a bad battery, starting the truck as soon as you put the key in, to avoid the heat cycle should result in a fast start up, if one or both of the batteries are getting dragged down to much by the current draw of the heater grid. Let us know what you find out. __________________ 2001.5 Ram, 24 valve H.O. Cummins 6 speed manual, 4x4 2009 Ram, 6.7 Cummins, 6 speed manual, 4x4

10-16-2009, 11:16 PM	#8 (permalink)
robinson2070 Cummins Fanatic Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Corbin, Kentucky Posts: 134 Thanks: 11 Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts robinson2070's Truck Pics	Yeah, I already changed one battery a few months ago I guess it's time to change the other one. That's all It is I'm pretty sure. Thanks for the help. __________________ 08' 2500 6.7L CTD Laramie, Black, Automatic, mainly stock, EGR Unplugged, DPF/EGR gone!!. Straight Piped.

10-16-2009, 11:32 PM	#9 (permalink)
kevinc2004 Cummins Fanatic Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Dallas NC Posts: 169 Thanks: 2 Thanked 6 Times in 3 Posts kevinc2004's Truck Pics	You should change the batteries at the same time. If one is dying from old age, The other one is not far behind it. As soon as I get my first slow start, I will replace both batteries in my 2007 with the largest ones that will fit in the boxes. __________________ 2007.5, 6.7 turbo 3500 drw 4X4 (6X6)quad cab longbed. Bone Stock

10-17-2009, 06:17 PM	#11 (permalink)
robinson2070 Cummins Fanatic Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Corbin, Kentucky Posts: 134 Thanks: 11 Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts robinson2070's Truck Pics	Ok, Thanks for the help guys I'm gonna clean my terminals and such and wait for another cold start to see if it happens again, If it does i'll just get another battery. If it still does it then I'm not done with you all yet haha. __________________ 08' 2500 6.7L CTD Laramie, Black, Automatic, mainly stock, EGR Unplugged, DPF/EGR gone!!. Straight Piped.

10-17-2009, 10:19 PM	#12 (permalink)
48kenworth Cummins Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Canton,Texas Posts: 139 Thanks: 1 Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts 48kenworth's Truck Pics	Always replace batteries in pairs and promptly one bad battery can kill the other.that kinda sucks when you are in the middle of a cow pasture and alone __________________ 1:07 3500 6.7L G56 4x4 dually quad cab 2"hbs leveling kit DPF-R gutted downpipe converter & qaudzilla boost fooler,255/80/17 bfg km2's 2:07 3500 5.9L auto 2wd dually mega cab silencer ring mia