Please note at this time any hole you drill in your tank or in the top of your fuel canister should be small enough that the fitting you put into it actually barely threads into it. This will help control the amount of sealing your O-ring (or Teflon washers) has to do.
Drilling the hole. This is where I chose to put the vent fitting. When drilling the hole, hold a cup or something on the inside of the tank, under where you are drilling to catch any shavings that drop into the tank.
The hole, and then a pic of the fitting installed.
To remove the pump, first mark everything so it will go back the same.
Using a punch and hammer, lightly tap the retaining ring CCW to remove it.
This is the stock canister, where the remainder of the modifications will take place. If you wish to leave the option open to revert back to stock, purchase the Liberty canister and modify that one, instead. (P/N is in the parts list.)
Disassemble the pump canister. I removed the pump and the brackets that hold it (They are permanently glued, so you may want to just cut them to avoid damaging the cannister), the sending unit, and I separated the top from the fuel pump cup.
I cut the pump wires off the inside connector. You may wish to leave them, but if you do, make sure you secure them so they don’t interfere with anything.
Here are the 2 siphon hoses we need to mount to the fuel canister lid.
Begin by grinding the stock inlet fitting and ribs off the top and underside of the lid, I used die grinders for this with abrasive wheels, careful to not remove too much, just get it flat. Drill a hole just large enough to thread the fitting in and install the first fitting.
Underside
Repeat for the 2nd fitting
Underside
When installing the siphon tubes, it’s important to get the length right. It makes it easier if you bend the tube before installing them by forming them with your hands. Remember, the lid will collapse about ¾” so allow for that also.
Here’s pics of my tubes in their final collapsed position.
These next pics show the bottom of the fuel cup before and after adding additional holes to it. The additional holes allow the cup to fill faster. The holes are drilled in the bottom of the cup, but toward the left sidewall of the cup, so they do not speed up the draining of the cup as much when fuel is sloshing forward or backward. There is a plastic “Screen” that pops out easily with a screwdriver. Make sure you remove it before drilling! I recommend drilling from the bottom side into the cup.
Pic of tank reassembled, ready to go back in.
Before installing the tank, I removed the old feed line completely off my truck, and put my AN fitting on my filter housing and connected the new line to it.
Here are a few post install pics, enjoy!
There are several reasons I chose the GFS-392 pump to work with. I’m only going to list 10.
1). Familiarity. Go with what you know. Before this Diesel thing took off with me, I was in to Performance Gas motors. I still am, actually. The gas motor world is where I was first exposed to the GFS-392.
2). Personal Experience. I have a GFS-392 on my Holley Commander 950 fuel injected Off Road Buggy, and have personally had 4 years of trouble free off road service from it.
3). Availability. ALL the pumps out there are probably reliable. (Except the one in the stock Dodge fuel tank, LOL!) In the unlikely event something DOES go wrong, I already have a spare GFS-392 pump on hand. For those of you that don’t have a spare, one can be had for a little over $100 just about ANYWHERE it might fail. These things are popular, and plentiful! Something most people don’t think about until their $300-$400 High Zoot pump OR their Stock pump goes out in Nowhere, USA and they can’t get one for a couple days.
4) Price. Without a doubt, they are less expensive to purchase OR replace than either the stock pump that comes in the Dodge, or just about any of the competitive pumps. For reference, $212.00 list for the paper weight Dodge put in the tank, but I’ve seen it as cheap as $165.00, and about $300.00+ for “other” aftermarket pumps (No install kit).
5) Adaptability. It’s small, and it fits practically anywhere. It was used originally to pump gasoline, so I’m not too concerned about ULSD ruining it by lack of lubrication! (I run a lubricant in my fuel, anyway.)
6). Replacement. It doesn’t get any easier to replace, 10-minute job tops, depending on where YOU decide to put the thing, not where it fit, or in Dodge’s case in the Fuel tank!
7). Performance. Flow rates and pressures that will support upwards to 800HP. If you want more, Start off with one GFS-392, and then when you finally get to the point where you need more, add another one for a whole lot less than replacing your system with any other system out there.
8). Ease of installation. I’ve read some people consider the GFS-392 a difficult system to install. Nothing could be further from the truth! It’s dirt simple. It’s definitely no tougher than installing any other aftermarket pump. Once you inform yourself about it, you wont believe how easy it is to understand, and install.
9). Time effective. There are companies out there that offer complete kits for those who want or need something Turnkey, and quick.
10). Quiet operation. Although I “Hear” some of the other pumps are working on their noise levels.
In closing out this portion of my post, I have NOTHING to gain by providing you with my opinions, reasons, and methods of installation. I’m not selling ANYTHING.
The Diesel aftermarket is a VERY COMPETITIVE place. Who you are talking to and trusting as an “Authority” on the subject might just have something to gain by convincing you that you need something more expensive.
Check this out:
http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/cu...-see-here.html
Here is a copy of a spec sheet and graph for the GFS-392
Most of my fittings and hose came from Summit
Parts list for my install:
Part Number Part Description QTY EA PRICE
14-FPA 7/16” Pickup assembly 2 24.00 48.00
*5140832AB Jeep liberty fuel canister 1 71.76 71.76
G3727 Fram Fuel Filter 1 15.00 15.00
GDP-Bypass/1540CK Bypass Pressure Reg. and adj. Kit 1 90.00 90.00
GSL-392 Fuel Pump 1 125.00 125.00
Fittings
1- -8AN to filter in and out
Part Number Part Description QTY EA PRICE
EAR-9892086ERL FEMALE 8 MALE 6 REDUCER 1 9.00 9.00
EAR-9919EFGERL -8 AN TO 12MM-1.5 ADAPTER 1 12.00 12.00
SUM-220648 -6AN TO 3/8 NPT ADAPTER 1 3.00 3.00
SUM-220687 -6 90 HOSE END SWIVEL 1 13.00 13.00
SUM-220690 -6AN HOSE END STRAIGHT 3 4.88 14.64
SUM-220836 -8 AN MALE TEE 1 10.00 10.00
SUM-220846 -8AN TO 3/8 NPT ADAPTER 1 3.00 3.00
SUM-220890 -8AN HOSE END STRAIGHT 2 6.95 13.90
SUM-220887 -8 90 HOSE END SWIVEL 2 6.95 13.90
**128-3040 -8 AN TO 10MM-1.0 ADAPTER 2 7.00 14.00
Fuel Line
SUM-230815 S.S. BRAIDED HOSE-8 15 FT 1 63.00 63.00
SUM-230606 S.S. BRAIDED HOSE-6 6 FT 1 20.95 20.95
* Purchase from Dodgeparts.com This is optional; you could modify your existing fuel canister. Included here in case you want to leave the “Return to stock” option open.
**Purchase at:
Walbro External Fuel Pumps they also sell them in –6 if you are only doing one pump.
TOTAL COST for one pump install like I did it, $500.00
__________________
Bill Mish
2007 Dodge 3500 4X4/5.9L/48RE, SRT-10 hood, Recon, Isspro, ICEBOX/Amsoil, Walbro, SMARTY, FBD CFM+, FBD HGD, FBD 5" exhaust. 418hp/800tq
Last edited by wildcat : 06-07-2008 at 01:33 PM.
Reason: final tweaks