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Ok I need to concentrate on what to do with my truck worn steering part(s)
Just a recap:
I checked for play and slop in the steering shaft and it is very tight
I also checked the steering box and it is turning nice and immediately, no delay
I then jacked up the front driver side tire and checked for slop and play. Everything is tight side-to-side and up-and-down. The ball joints are TIGHT (they are only 32,000 miles old) and the outer tie rod is also tight. I also spun the tire around and it was very quiet, so the wheel bearings also appear to be fine
I then jacked up the front passenger side tire and checked for slop and play. Everything is tight up-and-down. The ball joints are TIGHT (once again, they are only 32,000 miles old) and the outer tie rod is also 'decently' tight. I also spun the tire around and it was very quiet, so the wheel bearings also appear to be fine.
However......once I grabbed the tire and pulled/pushed on it, there was side-to-side play!!! The outer tie rod had a tad bit of play but there was something alot more worn out.......the ball socket/stud from the steering rod/bar (drag link I believe this is called) that runs to the pitman arm. The inner tie rod at the pitman arm is fine, but the rod end at the opposite side is shot, with a TON of play/slop
Options:
1) Buy the newest Mopar "AI" code 08.5+ steering kit from Mopar and get a good front end alignment
2) Buy the newest Mopar "AI" code 08.5+ steering kit from Source Automotive (grease fittings installed already) and get a good front end alignment
3) Buy a replacement stock draglink and get a good front end alignment
4) Buy a good solid crossover steering kit (Thuren or Bullet Proof Steering), drill out the pitman arms and knuckles, and hope that the rod end/heims dont sieze up and get a good front end alignment
What option do youy guys suggest????
Option #3 would be the cheapest by far.......and the stock draglink did last for 85,000ish miles
Option #4 would give me rock solid steering and really not have any wear/tear items, but I do have to drill out the knuckles.......
Option #1 and Option #2 is a good solid upgrade and are bolt up upgrades......
So..............which would you guys choose and why??????
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04 QC/LB, 4WD, 305/555 HO CTD, 6" Lift, 37x13.50 Toyo Open Country MT on 20x10 BMF SOTA 8, MBRP 5", GDP Power-Flo, GDP Air Boss, GDP Grid Delete, IceBox Intake, Air Dog 150, ATS Pulse Flow Manifold, BD Special, SMARTY SR POD, ARP Head Studs, T&C WILD Fuel Rail, T&C CPRV, II Dragon Fire 85% CP3, II 100HP Nozzles, Edge CTS Monitor, Built 48RE Trans
I have a 2nd gen but got a complete steering setup off of Rockauto.com, they have a few 5-10% off codes floating around on google if that helps you out any.
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Intense Blue 98.5 ARB Reunel AFE Isspro GDP Quadzilla Warn Carli Thuren Spohn
I got fed up with mine so I ordered the Carli Upgrade Kit, the OEM 8.5 Drag Link Upgrade , and the BD Steering Box stabilizer.. Should have it all in by end on next week....i just couldn't take it any more!
I already have the PSC Steering Shaft Brace and an adjustable Thuren trackbar (with the new black poly bushing).....
Just need to figure out what will be the best route for the steering components
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04 QC/LB, 4WD, 305/555 HO CTD, 6" Lift, 37x13.50 Toyo Open Country MT on 20x10 BMF SOTA 8, MBRP 5", GDP Power-Flo, GDP Air Boss, GDP Grid Delete, IceBox Intake, Air Dog 150, ATS Pulse Flow Manifold, BD Special, SMARTY SR POD, ARP Head Studs, T&C WILD Fuel Rail, T&C CPRV, II Dragon Fire 85% CP3, II 100HP Nozzles, Edge CTS Monitor, Built 48RE Trans
I have heard good and bad about the Source Auto 08.5 kit......some claim that they just drilled and tap provisions for the grease fittings and that internally, there are NOT any channels for the grease (because it was designed to be a sealed tie rod)
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04 QC/LB, 4WD, 305/555 HO CTD, 6" Lift, 37x13.50 Toyo Open Country MT on 20x10 BMF SOTA 8, MBRP 5", GDP Power-Flo, GDP Air Boss, GDP Grid Delete, IceBox Intake, Air Dog 150, ATS Pulse Flow Manifold, BD Special, SMARTY SR POD, ARP Head Studs, T&C WILD Fuel Rail, T&C CPRV, II Dragon Fire 85% CP3, II 100HP Nozzles, Edge CTS Monitor, Built 48RE Trans
Thuren's is bullet proof but you may get some bump steer, adjusting it can be a pain. My heim joints lasted along time but I'm out in the desert. Also keep in mind wheel selection. The big heims need room at the knuckles.
Mopar steering works for awhile but may last only so long. There's really only so much you can get out of a ball and socket design..
Another option is to use 08+ steering with a Thuren upper tie rod.
Q: What is the life expectancy of your Bullet Proof Rod Ends™ ? rod end info
A: It depends on the application, conditions, cleanliness and abuse you subject them to. In our testing we have found our Bullet Proof Spherical Rod Ends™ to out perform nearly every stock OEM style ball joints in every aspect, as well as lasting up to five times longer in longevity. In our comparison testing we discovered where OEM tie rod ends lasted an average of 2-3 years, our Bullet Proof Spherical Rod Ends™ lasted over 10 years on the same group of vehicles tested, and in the same conditions. We have also noted that even the best "heim" joints we've tried, those barely stayed tight enough to last 1 year on the same test mules, while some of the cheaper "heim" joints barely lasted 2-3 months. Surprisingly, operating our Bullet Proof Spherical Rod Ends™ in salt, water, mud, grit and dirt were less of an issue than it was not to clean and wash them off after usage and spraying a light anti-corrosion oil on them. Other "heim" joints as well as OEM rod ends failed at a dramatically increased rate in those same exact conditions when compared side by side in numerous brutal tests.
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04 QC/LB, 4WD, 305/555 HO CTD, 6" Lift, 37x13.50 Toyo Open Country MT on 20x10 BMF SOTA 8, MBRP 5", GDP Power-Flo, GDP Air Boss, GDP Grid Delete, IceBox Intake, Air Dog 150, ATS Pulse Flow Manifold, BD Special, SMARTY SR POD, ARP Head Studs, T&C WILD Fuel Rail, T&C CPRV, II Dragon Fire 85% CP3, II 100HP Nozzles, Edge CTS Monitor, Built 48RE Trans
Q: Your Bullet Proof Rod Ends™ are not greaseable and need no seals, how can they last? rod end info
A: Our Bullet Proof Spherical Rod Ends™ have a carbon-fibre Teflon® liner in them which is a permanently lubricated material that provides ultra smooth movement and a vibration cushion. No additional grease is needed since the Super-Tight fit will not allow any debris into the rod end, therefore nothing can get out. The Super-Tight fitting crowns on each end of the bearing acts as "scraper seals" which keeps sand, water and dirt from getting inside the rod end. Superior quality and ultra precision workmanship is required to achieve this result, which is why no other Rod End even comes close to our Bullet Proof Spherical Rod Ends™.
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04 QC/LB, 4WD, 305/555 HO CTD, 6" Lift, 37x13.50 Toyo Open Country MT on 20x10 BMF SOTA 8, MBRP 5", GDP Power-Flo, GDP Air Boss, GDP Grid Delete, IceBox Intake, Air Dog 150, ATS Pulse Flow Manifold, BD Special, SMARTY SR POD, ARP Head Studs, T&C WILD Fuel Rail, T&C CPRV, II Dragon Fire 85% CP3, II 100HP Nozzles, Edge CTS Monitor, Built 48RE Trans
Another option is to use 08+ steering with a Thuren upper tie rod. Good luck!
I did think about this option too....the Thuren upper draglink is about $380
However, he is 3+ weeks behind right now
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04 QC/LB, 4WD, 305/555 HO CTD, 6" Lift, 37x13.50 Toyo Open Country MT on 20x10 BMF SOTA 8, MBRP 5", GDP Power-Flo, GDP Air Boss, GDP Grid Delete, IceBox Intake, Air Dog 150, ATS Pulse Flow Manifold, BD Special, SMARTY SR POD, ARP Head Studs, T&C WILD Fuel Rail, T&C CPRV, II Dragon Fire 85% CP3, II 100HP Nozzles, Edge CTS Monitor, Built 48RE Trans
Thuren's is bullet proof but you may get some bump steer
Explain please......why?
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04 QC/LB, 4WD, 305/555 HO CTD, 6" Lift, 37x13.50 Toyo Open Country MT on 20x10 BMF SOTA 8, MBRP 5", GDP Power-Flo, GDP Air Boss, GDP Grid Delete, IceBox Intake, Air Dog 150, ATS Pulse Flow Manifold, BD Special, SMARTY SR POD, ARP Head Studs, T&C WILD Fuel Rail, T&C CPRV, II Dragon Fire 85% CP3, II 100HP Nozzles, Edge CTS Monitor, Built 48RE Trans
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