2012 Fuel filter change - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
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Old 04-10-2012, 07:36 AM   #1 (permalink)
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2012 Fuel filter change

So this will be my first fuel filter change. It is my understanding the 12's have the housing attached to the head so all I need to do is order a filter cartridge? Is this correct?
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Old 04-10-2012, 09:09 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Takes 1 1/8" socket to remove cap.
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Old 04-10-2012, 09:55 AM   #3 (permalink)
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yeah, im curious as well, just got a 2012 also
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Old 04-10-2012, 11:23 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 07INFERNOREDSRT8 View Post
Takes 1 1/8" socket to remove cap.
So all I have to do is drain it first then remove the cap?
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Old 04-11-2012, 12:55 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Yup. Crack the yellow valve, it goes like half or a quarter turn, should open easy with your hands. Let it drain while you get a wrench on the top. Open it, swap in the new filter, close the valve and cycle the key on 3-4 times letting the fuel pump run and build pressure and purge air. Then fire it. Do not prefill, do not crank on it, you'll put dirt into the fuel system in the first, and tons of air in your fuel injectors and injection pump in the second. If you got most/all the air out she should light right up and barely stumble if at all.
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Old 04-11-2012, 06:51 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Yup. Crack the yellow valve, it goes like half or a quarter turn, should open easy with your hands. Let it drain while you get a wrench on the top. Open it, swap in the new filter, close the valve and cycle the key on 3-4 times letting the fuel pump run and build pressure and purge air. Then fire it. Do not prefill, do not crank on it, you'll put dirt into the fuel system in the first, and tons of air in your fuel injectors and injection pump in the second. If you got most/all the air out she should light right up and barely stumble if at all.
Perfect, thanks!
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Old 04-11-2012, 01:45 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Remember the fuel will run down your front diff cover if you don't put a hose extension on the drain tube. I did mine in my garage, attached a hose extension and ran it into a 2 gallon gas can. No mess!
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Old 04-12-2012, 07:13 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Remember the fuel will run down your front diff cover if you don't put a hose extension on the drain tube. I did mine in my garage, attached a hose extension and ran it into a 2 gallon gas can. No mess!
Besides the 1 1/8" socket to remove the cap and the extension hose any other tools I will need? Trying to make one trip to the store only. Thanks for the info.
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Old 04-12-2012, 10:04 AM   #9 (permalink)
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That should do it. You'll need to lube the new o-ring with some clean engine oil--doesn't have to be diesel oil. I bought a specific Snap-On fuel filter socket for it, 1 1/8" but it's 3/8" drive. You don't need very much torque to tighten the lid when done. Just good and snug--it's plastic.
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Old 04-12-2012, 11:11 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Perfect, thanks for the help!!
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Old 04-19-2012, 01:09 PM   #11 (permalink)
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When refering to cyclying the key or "bump" the starter I am not sure how this will work with my 2011. As soon as my key is turned to the start position my truck automatically turns over until it starts. Will this feature just keep turning over my truck until I turn the key to off? then my lift pump wont run?

In my 2001 your could bump the starter to run the lift pump and it would go for 30 sec or something to prime the system.
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Old 04-19-2012, 01:18 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cosmo1000 View Post
When refering to cyclying the key or "bump" the starter I am not sure how this will work with my 2011. As soon as my key is turned to the start position my truck automatically turns over until it starts. Will this feature just keep turning over my truck until I turn the key to off? then my lift pump wont run?

In my 2001 your could bump the starter to run the lift pump and it would go for 30 sec or something to prime the system.
Do not turn it to start. Just to ON not start - after a moment you'll hear the pump cycle for on a few seconds and shut off, then turn the key back to OFF, and back to ON again, you'll hear the pump cycle again. Don't turn it to start. It's unnecessarily hard on your starter, and EXTREMELY hard on the CP3 to run air through it, not to mention you might then be stuck with trying to bleed air out of the fuel rail by cracking injector lines.
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