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4th Gen PowertrainDiscussion of components that are directly involved in the power production and all that is needed to get and keep the truck moving . Engine, Transmission, etc...NO ADVERTISING
So this will be my first fuel filter change. It is my understanding the 12's have the housing attached to the head so all I need to do is order a filter cartridge? Is this correct?
__________________ 2012 2500 4x4 CCSB, G56 Gorilla Juiced, H&S Mini Maxx, 5" TBE, DPF and EGR/Cooler MIA, SB DD3250, ARP 625s, 6" BDS Long Arm, Carli Springs, 37" Toyo MT's, 17x9 Fuel Throttles (+1), Mag-Hytec rear Diff Cover, Claymore Hitch Cover USMC SEMPER FI!
Yup. Crack the yellow valve, it goes like half or a quarter turn, should open easy with your hands. Let it drain while you get a wrench on the top. Open it, swap in the new filter, close the valve and cycle the key on 3-4 times letting the fuel pump run and build pressure and purge air. Then fire it. Do not prefill, do not crank on it, you'll put dirt into the fuel system in the first, and tons of air in your fuel injectors and injection pump in the second. If you got most/all the air out she should light right up and barely stumble if at all.
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2011.5 6.7L HO 3500 4x4 ST Crew Long 3.73 SRW L/S Rear 68RFE H&S MM w/ Custom Tuning, B&W+Companion, Mag-Hytec Rear Cover
60 Gal RDS Aux Tank/Tool PacBrake air bags AirLift compressor (wouldn't recommend the compressor kit!)
1984 Ford/IH 6.9L F250 4x4 Long 3.54 Dana Rear 4spd Handshaker
2012 Fuzion FZ305 35' Toy Hauler (no, the Ford does not pull this...)
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to ZOP For This Useful Post:
Yup. Crack the yellow valve, it goes like half or a quarter turn, should open easy with your hands. Let it drain while you get a wrench on the top. Open it, swap in the new filter, close the valve and cycle the key on 3-4 times letting the fuel pump run and build pressure and purge air. Then fire it. Do not prefill, do not crank on it, you'll put dirt into the fuel system in the first, and tons of air in your fuel injectors and injection pump in the second. If you got most/all the air out she should light right up and barely stumble if at all.
Perfect, thanks!
__________________ 2012 2500 4x4 CCSB, G56 Gorilla Juiced, H&S Mini Maxx, 5" TBE, DPF and EGR/Cooler MIA, SB DD3250, ARP 625s, 6" BDS Long Arm, Carli Springs, 37" Toyo MT's, 17x9 Fuel Throttles (+1), Mag-Hytec rear Diff Cover, Claymore Hitch Cover USMC SEMPER FI!
Remember the fuel will run down your front diff cover if you don't put a hose extension on the drain tube. I did mine in my garage, attached a hose extension and ran it into a 2 gallon gas can. No mess!
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'11 2500 Big horn crew cab short bed. 6.7L CTD, 68RFE 3.73, Shibby egr/cooler delete, 4" SS TBE, XRT-PRO, CCV delete, factory fender flares, front matching tint, line-x xtra.
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to racer742 For This Useful Post:
Remember the fuel will run down your front diff cover if you don't put a hose extension on the drain tube. I did mine in my garage, attached a hose extension and ran it into a 2 gallon gas can. No mess!
Besides the 1 1/8" socket to remove the cap and the extension hose any other tools I will need? Trying to make one trip to the store only. Thanks for the info.
__________________ 2012 2500 4x4 CCSB, G56 Gorilla Juiced, H&S Mini Maxx, 5" TBE, DPF and EGR/Cooler MIA, SB DD3250, ARP 625s, 6" BDS Long Arm, Carli Springs, 37" Toyo MT's, 17x9 Fuel Throttles (+1), Mag-Hytec rear Diff Cover, Claymore Hitch Cover USMC SEMPER FI!
That should do it. You'll need to lube the new o-ring with some clean engine oil--doesn't have to be diesel oil. I bought a specific Snap-On fuel filter socket for it, 1 1/8" but it's 3/8" drive. You don't need very much torque to tighten the lid when done. Just good and snug--it's plastic.
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'11 2500 Big horn crew cab short bed. 6.7L CTD, 68RFE 3.73, Shibby egr/cooler delete, 4" SS TBE, XRT-PRO, CCV delete, factory fender flares, front matching tint, line-x xtra.
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to racer742 For This Useful Post:
When refering to cyclying the key or "bump" the starter I am not sure how this will work with my 2011. As soon as my key is turned to the start position my truck automatically turns over until it starts. Will this feature just keep turning over my truck until I turn the key to off? then my lift pump wont run?
In my 2001 your could bump the starter to run the lift pump and it would go for 30 sec or something to prime the system.
When refering to cyclying the key or "bump" the starter I am not sure how this will work with my 2011. As soon as my key is turned to the start position my truck automatically turns over until it starts. Will this feature just keep turning over my truck until I turn the key to off? then my lift pump wont run?
In my 2001 your could bump the starter to run the lift pump and it would go for 30 sec or something to prime the system.
Do not turn it to start. Just to ON not start - after a moment you'll hear the pump cycle for on a few seconds and shut off, then turn the key back to OFF, and back to ON again, you'll hear the pump cycle again. Don't turn it to start. It's unnecessarily hard on your starter, and EXTREMELY hard on the CP3 to run air through it, not to mention you might then be stuck with trying to bleed air out of the fuel rail by cracking injector lines.
__________________
2011.5 6.7L HO 3500 4x4 ST Crew Long 3.73 SRW L/S Rear 68RFE H&S MM w/ Custom Tuning, B&W+Companion, Mag-Hytec Rear Cover
60 Gal RDS Aux Tank/Tool PacBrake air bags AirLift compressor (wouldn't recommend the compressor kit!)
1984 Ford/IH 6.9L F250 4x4 Long 3.54 Dana Rear 4spd Handshaker
2012 Fuzion FZ305 35' Toy Hauler (no, the Ford does not pull this...)
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to ZOP For This Useful Post:
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2012 2500 4x4 CCSB, G56 Gorilla Juiced, H&S Mini Maxx, 5" TBE, DPF and EGR/Cooler MIA, SB DD3250, ARP 625s, 6" BDS Long Arm, Carli Springs, 37" Toyo MT's, 17x9 Fuel Throttles (+1), Mag-Hytec rear Diff Cover, Claymore Hitch Cover
USMC SEMPER FI! 
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