Well I've been taking a break from the performance mods since I'm still looking for someone around here I can trust with putting my ARP studs in... But here's a little something I did last weekend.
Mopar Reverse Camera Kit for 4th Gen Rams with touch screen radios. P/N 82211184
These are really really good kits that come with everything you need and can be found all over eBay for about $250.
I started at the tail gate, swapping out the latch & getting the wiring bundle routed up the drivers side frame rail.
As you can probably tell there is PLENTY of length to the wires... Even if you've got a long bed I'm pretty sure you will have some excess.
I was able to easily get the old latch out of the tail gate with the lock in it, but when I swapped the lock over to the new latch I had some trouble getting the new latch in... I Didn't feel like scratching my paint all to hell jacking with it so I just took the lock back out, put the new latch in the tail gate & then put the lock back in the new latch through the access hole. Lol
Bye bye old latch..
Hello new latch!
Everything is all pre-cut & drilled in the truck for the mounting & routing of the wires...
These little clips (circled in red) are SOLID once you slide them on... So be sure that's where you want them... & be sure you leave a little slack so it doesn't put the wiring harness in a bind when you close the tail gate.
They give you plenty of Zip-ties too, I put one or two about every two feet along the frame rail, securing the wiring to everything under the sun (pretty straight forward, just don't secure the wires to any suspension components) and still had some left over.
This is where I hit a bit of a speed bump... The instructions state that the wire you need to tap would be in connector 'F' under the TPIM. This was NOT correct for my truck (2012 2500 Mega Cab Lone star edition)
After scratching my head for a minute & reading over the instructions again I decided to remove a tail light & see what color the power wire for the reverse lights was at the lamp... White with red stripe.
I then searched connector 'F' again for a White/Red wire & found nothing...
The next connector to try was the brown connector labeled 'E'
Wanting to be sure before I started hacking up my wiring harness, I again enlisted the help of my brother who busted out his multimeter & a 'finding' to back probe the wire while I popped the truck in & out of reverse. (The key must be on and the connectors plugged into the TIPM for this to work)
The wire showed current only while the truck was in reverse just like we hoped... So we started the splice!
Zech was able to free the wire from the connector using a tiny flat screw driver so we didn't have to cut the wire to get the supplied heat shrink on there.. Just strip it.
Heat shrinked & ready to go back in!
Here's a pic showing how the wires for the head unit go into the connector & the 'lock' that must be pressed down before it will go into the back of the unit. The instructions actually have this right but if you follow them be sure you have the connector facing towards you & not away from you.
Here's a picture of the orientation of 'F' and 'E' in the bottom of the TIPM.
Lots of extra length!
With everything buttoned back up it was time to take it to the Stealership to have it enabled in the ECU.
Dropped it off at 1:00PM on Monday & they called at 9:30AM on Tuesday to let me know it was finally ready... Went to pick it up and had this handed to me.
Welcome to Midland right?
But hey, $400 and 9 hours later (2 hours to do my part, 7 to do theirs) it is working like a champ!
Totally worth it IMO.. Now i can back right up to stuff without worry
Thanks for looking... Next up: Lift and tires!
And getting these damn studs in!