RecklessJeremy's 2012 build up thread - Page 3 - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
4th Gen Performance Parts Discussion Discussion of Performance Parts For the 4th Gen Trucks...NO ADVERTISING

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post #25 of 229 (permalink) Old 09-08-2013, 08:18 PM
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RecklessJeremy's 2012 build up thread

I have 35% on my fronts and keep thinking I want to go 20%.

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post #26 of 229 (permalink) Old 09-11-2013, 10:17 PM Thread Starter
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Check out the GDP boost tube/grid heater relocate/intake horn man... that's the route I'm going.. GDP products are top notch!
I'd love to have the extra half inch of the 4" H&S boost tube but I don't think it would work with the grid heater relocate.

Here is another snapshot of the windows... The sun is beating almost straight down the line of the house roof right in through the windshield.. So that's pretty much the most you would ever be able to see inside the truck.


And here's a new topic!
Ive been researching fuel upgrades since that's probably gonna be my next step after the studs are in... I was all but set on getting an Airdog II 165 & Arson III CP3 kit when I read on another thread that GDP actually recommends that you go with their Big Line kit + 2 Micron filter with a Raptor pump & save a little money.
I do like the idea of keeping the stock filter housing with its fuel heater/water separator & running the fuel through the oem 4 micron filter & then the new 2 micron filter, but I have heard though that the high pressures from the Raptor can cause the stock fuel filter housing to leak... & besides that it just seems like extra work for an inferior result... while only saving $50. Plus the Airdog has its own water AND air separator built right in... Just not a heater which is pretty much pointless from what i hear..?
What do y'all think?

Either way, I'm definitely going with a modified fuel module... Which leads me to my next question... Is the GDP fuel module just a OEM Liberty module (That I can get myself for $100 less) or is it actually modified in some way... The description on the website does not give much information at all.

Then there's Vulcan, who on the other hand is very informative about what all has been done to their modified Liberty module (& it sounds great!).
But is it worth the extra $100 over the GDP module? Or the extra $200 over the stock Liberty module for that matter?

Decisions, decisions!
Any info that anyone may have on this or especially any first hand experience would be greatly appreciated!

Cheers!

2012 2500 4X4 G56 3.73 Megacab.
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Mods by me: ATS Aurora 7500+, ATS Dual Fuelers (Not yet installed, but soon!), Valair Street Triple, H&S Mini-Maxx & Pyro (+MCC by TOMEYGUN), 4" ATS down pipe to 5" Flo-Pro straight pipe exhaust, Flo-Pro EGR delete, GDP Grid heater delete, GDP Big Line Kit, GDP Open Air Breather.
Mods by others: ARP 2000(425) Head Studs (Installed by Power Source Diesel)
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post #27 of 229 (permalink) Old 10-26-2013, 02:21 PM Thread Starter
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Well I've been taking a break from the performance mods since I'm still looking for someone around here I can trust with putting my ARP studs in... But here's a little something I did last weekend.

Mopar Reverse Camera Kit for 4th Gen Rams with touch screen radios. P/N 82211184

These are really really good kits that come with everything you need and can be found all over eBay for about $250.

I started at the tail gate, swapping out the latch & getting the wiring bundle routed up the drivers side frame rail.



As you can probably tell there is PLENTY of length to the wires... Even if you've got a long bed I'm pretty sure you will have some excess.

I was able to easily get the old latch out of the tail gate with the lock in it, but when I swapped the lock over to the new latch I had some trouble getting the new latch in... I Didn't feel like scratching my paint all to hell jacking with it so I just took the lock back out, put the new latch in the tail gate & then put the lock back in the new latch through the access hole. Lol

Bye bye old latch..



Hello new latch!



Everything is all pre-cut & drilled in the truck for the mounting & routing of the wires...





These little clips (circled in red) are SOLID once you slide them on... So be sure that's where you want them... & be sure you leave a little slack so it doesn't put the wiring harness in a bind when you close the tail gate.

They give you plenty of Zip-ties too, I put one or two about every two feet along the frame rail, securing the wiring to everything under the sun (pretty straight forward, just don't secure the wires to any suspension components) and still had some left over.

This is where I hit a bit of a speed bump... The instructions state that the wire you need to tap would be in connector 'F' under the TPIM. This was NOT correct for my truck (2012 2500 Mega Cab Lone star edition)






After scratching my head for a minute & reading over the instructions again I decided to remove a tail light & see what color the power wire for the reverse lights was at the lamp... White with red stripe.
I then searched connector 'F' again for a White/Red wire & found nothing...



The next connector to try was the brown connector labeled 'E'



Bingo!

Wanting to be sure before I started hacking up my wiring harness, I again enlisted the help of my brother who busted out his multimeter & a 'finding' to back probe the wire while I popped the truck in & out of reverse. (The key must be on and the connectors plugged into the TIPM for this to work)

The wire showed current only while the truck was in reverse just like we hoped... So we started the splice!

Zech was able to free the wire from the connector using a tiny flat screw driver so we didn't have to cut the wire to get the supplied heat shrink on there.. Just strip it.



Soldered up!



Heat shrinked & ready to go back in!



Here's a pic showing how the wires for the head unit go into the connector & the 'lock' that must be pressed down before it will go into the back of the unit. The instructions actually have this right but if you follow them be sure you have the connector facing towards you & not away from you.



Here's a picture of the orientation of 'F' and 'E' in the bottom of the TIPM.



Lots of extra length!



With everything buttoned back up it was time to take it to the Stealership to have it enabled in the ECU.

Dropped it off at 1:00PM on Monday & they called at 9:30AM on Tuesday to let me know it was finally ready... Went to pick it up and had this handed to me.



Holy Crapola!
Welcome to Midland right?

But hey, $400 and 9 hours later (2 hours to do my part, 7 to do theirs) it is working like a champ!



Totally worth it IMO.. Now i can back right up to stuff without worry

Thanks for looking... Next up: Lift and tires!
And getting these damn studs in!


2012 2500 4X4 G56 3.73 Megacab.
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Mods by me: ATS Aurora 7500+, ATS Dual Fuelers (Not yet installed, but soon!), Valair Street Triple, H&S Mini-Maxx & Pyro (+MCC by TOMEYGUN), 4" ATS down pipe to 5" Flo-Pro straight pipe exhaust, Flo-Pro EGR delete, GDP Grid heater delete, GDP Big Line Kit, GDP Open Air Breather.
Mods by others: ARP 2000(425) Head Studs (Installed by Power Source Diesel)
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post #28 of 229 (permalink) Old 11-07-2013, 12:35 PM
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Really good write up.
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post #29 of 229 (permalink) Old 11-07-2013, 11:52 PM
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Man I really wanna do the back-up camera but I don't have the big nice fancy radio lol nice write up though .
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post #30 of 229 (permalink) Old 11-09-2013, 02:21 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Guys!

@torq92
We are considering doing an RBZ radio swap & reverse cam kit on that same color Ram 1500 you can see in some of my pics, "high speed" RBZ head units can be found on eBay for about $250.
If we do end up doing it I'll be sure to document everything in a separate thread & let you guys know what all is involved to get everything working like it came from the factory!

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Mods by me: ATS Aurora 7500+, ATS Dual Fuelers (Not yet installed, but soon!), Valair Street Triple, H&S Mini-Maxx & Pyro (+MCC by TOMEYGUN), 4" ATS down pipe to 5" Flo-Pro straight pipe exhaust, Flo-Pro EGR delete, GDP Grid heater delete, GDP Big Line Kit, GDP Open Air Breather.
Mods by others: ARP 2000(425) Head Studs (Installed by Power Source Diesel)
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post #31 of 229 (permalink) Old 01-03-2014, 08:26 AM Thread Starter
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Soooooo... This happened.



Got a deal I couldn't pass up on the ATS Aurora 7500+ kit from XDP!

2012 2500 4X4 G56 3.73 Megacab.
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Mods by me: ATS Aurora 7500+, ATS Dual Fuelers (Not yet installed, but soon!), Valair Street Triple, H&S Mini-Maxx & Pyro (+MCC by TOMEYGUN), 4" ATS down pipe to 5" Flo-Pro straight pipe exhaust, Flo-Pro EGR delete, GDP Grid heater delete, GDP Big Line Kit, GDP Open Air Breather.
Mods by others: ARP 2000(425) Head Studs (Installed by Power Source Diesel)
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post #32 of 229 (permalink) Old 01-03-2014, 12:43 PM Thread Starter
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I definitely want to run a wastegate to the hot pipe on this setup, I'm looking at the II kit because it has a 50mm gate (I have heard, don't know this for sure) which would flow a lot better than the usual 38mm gates. I do remember seeing a 6.7 with Lovefab compounds I believe that was still seeing 100psi of DP at 50-60psi of boost even with an external gate dumping to the hot pipe.

I'm wondering if anyone has had any experience with running dual gates on a setup like this, theoretically you could have one gate dumping to the hot pipe at a very low psi to bypass the small turbo & help spool the large turbo, then you could have a second gate set to dump into the down pipe at whatever psi you want your max DP to be. It seems this could also help you limit your boost pressure... Am I crazy or am I crazy? Would it be worth the extra money & fabrication? Would it even work like it works in my head? All opinions welcome


2012 2500 4X4 G56 3.73 Megacab.
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Mods by me: ATS Aurora 7500+, ATS Dual Fuelers (Not yet installed, but soon!), Valair Street Triple, H&S Mini-Maxx & Pyro (+MCC by TOMEYGUN), 4" ATS down pipe to 5" Flo-Pro straight pipe exhaust, Flo-Pro EGR delete, GDP Grid heater delete, GDP Big Line Kit, GDP Open Air Breather.
Mods by others: ARP 2000(425) Head Studs (Installed by Power Source Diesel)
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post #33 of 229 (permalink) Old 01-05-2014, 02:03 PM
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I would buy a T-4 or T-6 manifold. Like all the external gates, don't like if its a T-3. Curious is that the stock 6.7L manifold or aftermarket?

black, 10 3500 CTD CCSB Laramie, black maxx
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post #34 of 229 (permalink) Old 01-05-2014, 03:34 PM Thread Starter
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The ones in the picture are two-piece ATS PulseFlow manifolds, you could do the same setup with the EGR cooler ports on the stock manifold but if you're gonna go through all that trouble you might was well get one of these babies as I'm sure they flow a whole lot better!

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Mods by me: ATS Aurora 7500+, ATS Dual Fuelers (Not yet installed, but soon!), Valair Street Triple, H&S Mini-Maxx & Pyro (+MCC by TOMEYGUN), 4" ATS down pipe to 5" Flo-Pro straight pipe exhaust, Flo-Pro EGR delete, GDP Grid heater delete, GDP Big Line Kit, GDP Open Air Breather.
Mods by others: ARP 2000(425) Head Studs (Installed by Power Source Diesel)
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post #35 of 229 (permalink) Old 01-06-2014, 10:09 AM
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Curious are you going to run at aurora turbo as a single or going to run twins? What the spec's on it. Looks like a race face cover. I would weld on a flange or a 90 deg's elbow, just make's the install much cleaner.

With the detriot 60 front cover, you can buy the k-31 90 deg outlet PT#3957380. Its cheap and will bolt right onto the compressor cover. Its works pretty sweet .

I want to try a K-31 turbo, with a T-6 spool diverter valve. Probably be a 71mm version and cost around the $450 area and has the internal wastegate. I have to call Steed and order the manifold still. I was planning on running twins down the road. I'm still in the process of building my engine.

black, 10 3500 CTD CCSB Laramie, black maxx
Silver, 16 1500 Chevy Shiverado, 5.3L bone stock for now
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post #36 of 229 (permalink) Old 01-06-2014, 12:42 PM Thread Starter
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It's part of a complete kit from ATS that compounds the Aurora turbo with the stocker.
ATS | Dodge┬4th Gen 6.7CR
I read somewhere that the specs are 83/96/1.32ar but I can't seem to find any specs directly from ATS

2012 2500 4X4 G56 3.73 Megacab.
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Mods by me: ATS Aurora 7500+, ATS Dual Fuelers (Not yet installed, but soon!), Valair Street Triple, H&S Mini-Maxx & Pyro (+MCC by TOMEYGUN), 4" ATS down pipe to 5" Flo-Pro straight pipe exhaust, Flo-Pro EGR delete, GDP Grid heater delete, GDP Big Line Kit, GDP Open Air Breather.
Mods by others: ARP 2000(425) Head Studs (Installed by Power Source Diesel)
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