Well fellas... I got the GDP grid heater delete installed yesterday, & let me just start by saying that the fuel lines are a BEYOTCH!
If anyone has told you that a grid heater delete is an easy install... slap that person in the face & never trust them again.
I will say though that as difficult as it was, I was able to get a good click on the torque wrench (22 ft/lbs) when putting ALL of the fuel lines back on the cylinder head. (Make sure when you do this that the crows foot is not contacting the cylinder head or something else & giving you a false click, it is very tight in there but you've got to make sure the crows foot isn't touching anything but the fuel line nut when the wrench clicks!)
LUCKILY, none of the fuel line connector nuts that are supposed to stay in the head moved while breaking the lines loose... so I didn't have to deal with that. I didn't even check the torque on them honestly because I was short on daylight & I knew that none of them rotated because I was watching for that.
The instructions didn't have a required tools list & I guess the tools you use might vary some... a 12 point line wrench would have been a huge help but I couldn't fine one, I almost thought about taking the grinder & cutting a slot in the end of a regular 12 point boxed end wrench, but once again... I was short on time.
The 3/4 crows foot is a must if you are going to torque the lines back to proper spec.
Now here's where I screwed up, due to being in a hurry & reading the instructions wrong I torqued all the lines at the rail to 37 ft/lbs instead of 27 ft/lbs (37 n/m). So far no leaks or problems though!
Another thing I could have saved myself some pain on was remembering to reinstall the engine lifting bracket after I installed fuel line #6 instead of waiting till fuel line #5 was on.... line #5 connects to the head almost right above the inside bolt for the lifting bracket.
The GDP piece is truly a thing of beauty though, fit & finish was second to none, & you can tell just by looking that it is a huge improvement over stock.
What about bleeding the lines you ask? Well all I did was leave fuel line #1 completely loose at the head & crank the motor for about 5 seconds till fuel came out. I'm not sure if this is a 'real' fuel line bleeding method (seems like you would have to do this on every line to truly get all the air out of the system) but I had no problems doing it this way, it fired right up after that. Actually, it did cause a couple of codes to be thrown, since the intake air temp sensor & boost sensor were still unplugged & the intake horn was off. lol
But these were easily cleared with the Min-Maxx.
In the interest of saving time I opted to reuse the crush washer on the intake air temp sensor, but GDP supplies an O-ring if you'd rather go that route.
I only got a couple of pics but here they are.
Here's how I numbered my fuel lines, the first number is its place on the head, the second number is its place on the fuel rail. Note that lines 3 & 4 are reversed on the rail. If you don't pay attention to this you're gonna be in for some head scratching when you go to put them back on. Lol
Well lets get down to the real question right? HOW DOES IT FEEL?
Well I cant really say just yet, I've only put 10 or 15 miles on it so far (went to a fish fry & back last night) but I'm gonna play around with it some more today... So far I have noticed my EGTs are about 100 degrees less on average, & its probably a little more responsive but not the huge difference I was hoping for after all that work! Haha... It is worth mentioning though that I do still have the stock intake on the truck (definitely the most restrictive piece on the truck at this point) and I am still running the tuner on STREET with no ATT. Change any or all of these factors from the start & I'm sure the difference would be much more noticeable.
My advice to anyone about to tackle this would be to just take your time... Start early, get some music going, have plenty of cold beer in the ice chest & just don't be in a hurry like I was... It is going to be frustrating & there are some hidden/hard to get to bolts & things other than the fuel lines.
All in all its a great upgrade & I cant wait to do more testing!
If you have decided a grid heater delete is right for you I recommend the GDP Air-Boss 6.7 100%!