RecklessJeremy's 2012 build up thread - Page 2 - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
4th Gen Performance Parts Discussion Discussion of Performance Parts For the 4th Gen Trucks...NO ADVERTISING

 30Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #13 of 230 (permalink) Old 06-24-2013, 10:33 PM
Diesel Freak
 
wishIhada5.9's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Western PA
Posts: 623
Thanks: 87
Thanked 50 Times in 46 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
Looks great!


2010 6.7 G56 ST RCLB gone but not forgotten. New ride: Jade, the CCLB '11 G56 Big Horn in Hunter Green Pearlcoat
wishIhada5.9 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #14 of 230 (permalink) Old 06-24-2013, 10:36 PM
Newbie
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Oregon
Posts: 23
Thanks: 10
Thanked 2 Times in 1 Post
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
Looks sharp

2010 2500 CCSB....MiniMaxx, Sinister EGR delete, FloPro 5in tbe, leveled with 35's, 50 gal aux tank in the bed, Maxx Brake Controller
Docbar is offline  
post #15 of 230 (permalink) Old 07-14-2013, 02:54 PM Thread Starter
Cummins Enthusiast
 
recklessjeremy's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Midland, TX
Posts: 291
Thanks: 56
Thanked 32 Times in 30 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
Thanks everyone!
I thought I'd give you all a little update, I put the connector caps from RSD on, idk if I just suck at finding these or if they sent me some extras but somehow I ended up with 3 left. Haha!



I'm still rocking the 5" with no tip, don't get me wrong I love the way this MBRP tip looks! But I don't wanna cut my tail pipe off just yet!



My next purchase for the truck is definitely gonna be the Air-Boss 67 grid heater delete from GDP! I really think Glacier is at the top of the game right now!

I'm planning on just deleting the grid heater for now, but eventually (before winter) I'm going to install their Mega-Flo S-2 intake horn & high flow grid heater that goes in the throttle valve location... We do occasionally get temps in the single digits here in west Texas!

I also just recently found out that a very well reviewed shop by the name of West Texas Diesel Performance is just right down the road in San Angelo! I will definitely be giving these guys a call & seeing how much they would charge to do my head studs!

Thanks for looking!

2012 2500 4X4 G56 3.73 Megacab.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 3 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 3 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Mods by me: ATS Aurora 7500+, ATS Dual Fuelers (Not yet installed, but soon!), Valair Street Triple, H&S Mini-Maxx & Pyro (+MCC by TOMEYGUN), 4" ATS down pipe to 5" Flo-Pro straight pipe exhaust, Flo-Pro EGR delete, GDP Grid heater delete, GDP Big Line Kit, GDP Open Air Breather.
Mods by others: ARP 2000(425) Head Studs (Installed by Power Source Diesel)
recklessjeremy is offline  
 
post #16 of 230 (permalink) Old 07-16-2013, 07:06 PM Thread Starter
Cummins Enthusiast
 
recklessjeremy's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Midland, TX
Posts: 291
Thanks: 56
Thanked 32 Times in 30 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
Hey guys, quick question... Does anyone know of a wastegate kit for the stock 6.7 manifold that mounts to the front EGR port only? I've seen the kits that use both (like the GDP kit) and the ones that use the back port only (like the Black Ops kit) but none that mount to the front only.... is there such a thing? I dont see why not..?

2012 2500 4X4 G56 3.73 Megacab.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 3 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 3 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Mods by me: ATS Aurora 7500+, ATS Dual Fuelers (Not yet installed, but soon!), Valair Street Triple, H&S Mini-Maxx & Pyro (+MCC by TOMEYGUN), 4" ATS down pipe to 5" Flo-Pro straight pipe exhaust, Flo-Pro EGR delete, GDP Grid heater delete, GDP Big Line Kit, GDP Open Air Breather.
Mods by others: ARP 2000(425) Head Studs (Installed by Power Source Diesel)
recklessjeremy is offline  
post #17 of 230 (permalink) Old 07-18-2013, 04:22 PM Thread Starter
Cummins Enthusiast
 
recklessjeremy's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Midland, TX
Posts: 291
Thanks: 56
Thanked 32 Times in 30 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
Well I really wanted to find a wastegate kit that mounts to the front EGR block-off plate so I could leave my pyro probe where its at (on the rear plate over the hotter cylinders) but I cant seem to find one, strange that with all the EGR block off kits coming with the rear plate pre-threaded for the pyro probe, no one has come up with a kit that will let you keep that setup & vent from the front plate instead....
Oh well, I guess I'll have to drill & tap my exhaust manifold

So here is my grocery list for the truck as it sits now:


GDP Grid heater delete < lower EGTs, more powa! (In the mail!)

ARP 2000 head studs < HG saver (625's are over priced & unnecesaary IMO)

BOD Wastegate kit < HG saver

TORKER-I 50 HP Injector Nozzles < More Powa!

GDP Micro-Kleen System + Big Line Combo < Good for expensive injectors

Used OEM Turbo + Batmowheel < Better sound, quicker spool, more powa (Keep my low mileage stock turbo as a backup)

Turbosmart TS-0304-1002 Blow Off Valve Kit < Turbo saver (Batmowheel loves to surge!)

GDP S2 Intake + Grid heater relocation < (Before winter comes)

Dual Disk Clutch < To hold the power, obviously! (Basically, once I start slipping the OE clutch, I'll replace it)

S&B intake < You've got to have an intake right??

With all this I think I should have a pretty damn solid setup... Once I find someone to do some Dyno tuning for the Mini Maxx I should be able to make up to about 500HP & 950FT/LBS Am I right?

All I really wanna do is max out the capabilities of the stock turbo & fueling... for now.
Then its on to lift/suspension/tires

I'm not saying I wont ever crank up the boost with a bigger turbo & fueling upgrades, but I've got to set some kind of limit for myself so I can move away from performance upgrades for a while... & at that point I'll want to have some shot-peened 5.9 rods thrown in there for peace of mind... Dont want to hang one of those crappy cracked-cap rods out the side of the block!
(Try to say crappy cracked cap rods 3X fast)

Anyway, thats it for now. I'll post my Grid Heater Delete install soon!

Thanks for looking!

2012 2500 4X4 G56 3.73 Megacab.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 3 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 3 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Mods by me: ATS Aurora 7500+, ATS Dual Fuelers (Not yet installed, but soon!), Valair Street Triple, H&S Mini-Maxx & Pyro (+MCC by TOMEYGUN), 4" ATS down pipe to 5" Flo-Pro straight pipe exhaust, Flo-Pro EGR delete, GDP Grid heater delete, GDP Big Line Kit, GDP Open Air Breather.
Mods by others: ARP 2000(425) Head Studs (Installed by Power Source Diesel)
recklessjeremy is offline  
post #18 of 230 (permalink) Old 07-19-2013, 09:50 PM
Diesel Head
 
UPANDCUMMER's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: South West Pennsylvania
Posts: 1,995
Thanks: 397
Thanked 281 Times in 237 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews

12 RAM 3500 Mega Laramie Mineral Gray, 4x4 SRW Thuren, TGC, Daystar, Backwoods deluxe pre-runner , Smittybilt x20 12k ,Cobra 29LX 102" whip & Breedlove mount, BakFlip/Rak/Box, Amp Research, Bully Rings, Retro Solutions, Front & Rear cam, Quick grill kit, , Tint, KC Hilites Daylighter 233 & 634, pwr gate lock, husky liner, Gauges, ARP, S&B CAI, tube & wrap , IronCross, PSC, 4" Pipe, Mini-Maxx w/pyro, MCC, OD & Inmotion , Mag-hytec, Shibby plugs, GDP breather & dipstick holders, 180 T-stat, H&S intake horn & 4" boost tube, LF9028, Amsoil Bypass system, MOFO 15, Infinity Kapa series.AMSOIL,
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 3 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
+, I think I have a problem
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 3 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
...
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 3 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
UPANDCUMMER is offline  
post #19 of 230 (permalink) Old 07-28-2013, 05:45 PM Thread Starter
Cummins Enthusiast
 
recklessjeremy's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Midland, TX
Posts: 291
Thanks: 56
Thanked 32 Times in 30 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
Well fellas... I got the GDP grid heater delete installed yesterday, & let me just start by saying that the fuel lines are a BEYOTCH!
If anyone has told you that a grid heater delete is an easy install... slap that person in the face & never trust them again.

I will say though that as difficult as it was, I was able to get a good click on the torque wrench (22 ft/lbs) when putting ALL of the fuel lines back on the cylinder head. (Make sure when you do this that the crows foot is not contacting the cylinder head or something else & giving you a false click, it is very tight in there but you've got to make sure the crows foot isn't touching anything but the fuel line nut when the wrench clicks!)

LUCKILY, none of the fuel line connector nuts that are supposed to stay in the head moved while breaking the lines loose... so I didn't have to deal with that. I didn't even check the torque on them honestly because I was short on daylight & I knew that none of them rotated because I was watching for that.
The instructions didn't have a required tools list & I guess the tools you use might vary some... a 12 point line wrench would have been a huge help but I couldn't fine one, I almost thought about taking the grinder & cutting a slot in the end of a regular 12 point boxed end wrench, but once again... I was short on time.
The 3/4 crows foot is a must if you are going to torque the lines back to proper spec.

Now here's where I screwed up, due to being in a hurry & reading the instructions wrong I torqued all the lines at the rail to 37 ft/lbs instead of 27 ft/lbs (37 n/m). So far no leaks or problems though!
Another thing I could have saved myself some pain on was remembering to reinstall the engine lifting bracket after I installed fuel line #6 instead of waiting till fuel line #5 was on.... line #5 connects to the head almost right above the inside bolt for the lifting bracket.

The GDP piece is truly a thing of beauty though, fit & finish was second to none, & you can tell just by looking that it is a huge improvement over stock.

What about bleeding the lines you ask? Well all I did was leave fuel line #1 completely loose at the head & crank the motor for about 5 seconds till fuel came out. I'm not sure if this is a 'real' fuel line bleeding method (seems like you would have to do this on every line to truly get all the air out of the system) but I had no problems doing it this way, it fired right up after that. Actually, it did cause a couple of codes to be thrown, since the intake air temp sensor & boost sensor were still unplugged & the intake horn was off. lol
But these were easily cleared with the Min-Maxx.

In the interest of saving time I opted to reuse the crush washer on the intake air temp sensor, but GDP supplies an O-ring if you'd rather go that route.

I only got a couple of pics but here they are.











Here's how I numbered my fuel lines, the first number is its place on the head, the second number is its place on the fuel rail. Note that lines 3 & 4 are reversed on the rail. If you don't pay attention to this you're gonna be in for some head scratching when you go to put them back on. Lol

Well lets get down to the real question right? HOW DOES IT FEEL?
Well I cant really say just yet, I've only put 10 or 15 miles on it so far (went to a fish fry & back last night) but I'm gonna play around with it some more today... So far I have noticed my EGTs are about 100 degrees less on average, & its probably a little more responsive but not the huge difference I was hoping for after all that work! Haha... It is worth mentioning though that I do still have the stock intake on the truck (definitely the most restrictive piece on the truck at this point) and I am still running the tuner on STREET with no ATT. Change any or all of these factors from the start & I'm sure the difference would be much more noticeable.

My advice to anyone about to tackle this would be to just take your time... Start early, get some music going, have plenty of cold beer in the ice chest & just don't be in a hurry like I was... It is going to be frustrating & there are some hidden/hard to get to bolts & things other than the fuel lines.
All in all its a great upgrade & I cant wait to do more testing!
If you have decided a grid heater delete is right for you I recommend the GDP Air-Boss 6.7 100%!
gehrelschris likes this.

2012 2500 4X4 G56 3.73 Megacab.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 3 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 3 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Mods by me: ATS Aurora 7500+, ATS Dual Fuelers (Not yet installed, but soon!), Valair Street Triple, H&S Mini-Maxx & Pyro (+MCC by TOMEYGUN), 4" ATS down pipe to 5" Flo-Pro straight pipe exhaust, Flo-Pro EGR delete, GDP Grid heater delete, GDP Big Line Kit, GDP Open Air Breather.
Mods by others: ARP 2000(425) Head Studs (Installed by Power Source Diesel)
recklessjeremy is offline  
post #20 of 230 (permalink) Old 07-29-2013, 04:47 PM
Cummins Enthusiast
 
Burnproof16's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 283
Thanks: 15
Thanked 15 Times in 15 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
Subscribed

SOLD: 98 12V, 350/1000
2012 6.7L Laramie Longhorn, H&S Mini Maxx W/Overdrive, 625 ARP Headstuds, 5" MBRP TBE, Sinister EGR Delete, 18"Diamo 8 Karot W/ 33/12.50 Toyo Open County M/Ts
Burnproof16 is offline  
post #21 of 230 (permalink) Old 07-29-2013, 10:13 PM
Cummins Fanatic
 
rollinbuckeye's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Ohio
Posts: 164
Thanks: 47
Thanked 31 Times in 26 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
I've had mine sitting in my truck for a couple weeks now. Just waiting till I have time to put it on. How long did it take you all together?

2010 Crew Cab 2500 6 speed, S&B air intake, H&S Mini Maxx Race tuner, SBDD 3250, FASS 150, Sinister EGR delete, GDP grid heater delete, GDP inline heater, GDP intake horn, GDP 3.5 Boost tube, Issopro pillar gauges, 5" Flow Pro TBE , Tuff Country traction bars, 2.5 leveling kit, Retro Shop smoked taillights and 3rd, MCC from Draconian Diesel
rollinbuckeye is offline  
post #22 of 230 (permalink) Old 07-29-2013, 11:25 PM Thread Starter
Cummins Enthusiast
 
recklessjeremy's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Midland, TX
Posts: 291
Thanks: 56
Thanked 32 Times in 30 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
Hmmm... Hard to say man, I didn't even look at the clock lol. I know it was past mid day when I started, & I finished right before dark. I would say 3 or 4 hours including my trip to the parts store to get a crows foot. Sorry I can't give you a better idea. You could probably knock it out a whole lot quicker than I did if you have all the right tools & really hustle.

2012 2500 4X4 G56 3.73 Megacab.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 3 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 3 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Mods by me: ATS Aurora 7500+, ATS Dual Fuelers (Not yet installed, but soon!), Valair Street Triple, H&S Mini-Maxx & Pyro (+MCC by TOMEYGUN), 4" ATS down pipe to 5" Flo-Pro straight pipe exhaust, Flo-Pro EGR delete, GDP Grid heater delete, GDP Big Line Kit, GDP Open Air Breather.
Mods by others: ARP 2000(425) Head Studs (Installed by Power Source Diesel)
recklessjeremy is offline  
post #23 of 230 (permalink) Old 09-08-2013, 02:18 PM Thread Starter
Cummins Enthusiast
 
recklessjeremy's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Midland, TX
Posts: 291
Thanks: 56
Thanked 32 Times in 30 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
RecklessJeremy's 2012 build up thread

Well obviously not much has been going on with the truck, I did get my windows tinted though!
According to my calculations I should have about 15% on the front and 7% on the rear.

From what I've read, the stock fronts are about 77-80% even though they look clear, that's why any tint shop you go to will tell you that the darkest you can legally go on the front is 35% film... even though the law says 25% (in Texas) your factory glass at 77% plus the 35% film will give you a total of 27% which is about as close as you wanna get to 25% due to the potential of variables in the glass and meter calibrations.

The 35% film looked to light for me so I went with 20% film on the fronts and 35% on the rears (stock tint on the rears is 20%).

Overall I like it, the front windows are only slightly lighter than the rears from the outside, but quite a bit lighter from the inside. Its just about perfect during the day but the windows are almost too dark for night driving... They are right on the line of what is comfortable for me, so I usually just roll them down at night. Lol

If I did it all over again I would probably just get 35% all around, that way you're still legal &amp; you aren't gonna pull out in front of some idiot that doesn't have his lights on yet when its getting dark.

Btw I paid $140 if anyone is wondering.... and the guy did a great job.
Here is a before and after pic, I'll try to get more later when there isn't so much reflection.




Last edited by recklessjeremy; 05-04-2016 at 08:48 AM.
recklessjeremy is offline  
post #24 of 230 (permalink) Old 09-08-2013, 03:40 PM
Cummins Nut
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Marion,Ohio
Posts: 414
Thanks: 11
Thanked 9 Times in 8 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
RecklessJeremy's 2012 build up thread

Subscribed. I'm planning on deleting my 11 this weekend. Started my parts list at minimax, cai, exhaust, delete kit, and OD software. After I recoup from this project I would like to do an intake manifold, boost tube, and maybe a grid heater relocate since we see some snow in Ohio.
01Grizzly is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome