Well I called ATS on Monday, had a new bracket in my hands on Thursday... So I was able to to pull the old bracket out & swap everything over to the new one on Saturday.
I was less than thrilled to find that the new bracket had an ugly little crack in it already right out of the box, in the corner of one of the bends.
I was tempted to send it back for another but I really wanted to get the truck going again over the weekend so I just ground the crack down & welded it up, I forgot to get an after picture, but we basically just welded that whole gap up straight across the relief cut & shot a new coat of paint on it.
Here's a quick tip for torquing the CP3 wheel to the pump shaft (ATS tells you to torque the nut to 52 ft/lbs, but they don't tell you the best way to accomplish this). I put two of the three bolts in that hold the pump to the bracket, torqued them to spec (35 ft/lbs) and then used the third hole temporarily to help torque the pulley nut to 60 ft/lbs (went a little overboard) lol. My 1/4" extension fit perfectly in the bolt hole, & kept the pulley from spinning while I torqued it down.
(I've also heard that you can just get it hand tight on the bench & then once its all installed & the belt is on, the belt will hold it from spinning well enough while you put the final torque on it.)
Anyway, we got everything put back on by Saturday afternoon & I was relieved to find that the pulley alignment was pretty much dead on perfect now with the new bracket.
Side note: I borrowed this picture from another Forum where they were talking about the same thing (pulley misalignment), I added the blue lines to show where I put my straight edge to check my alignment, just in case I didn't explain it well enough in my last post.
Even with the new bracket we still weren't able to get the belt on the right way, I had to do it the way C37
suggested & use the alternator as a secondary tensioner basically, I took the top bolt out & loosened up the bottom bolt & let the alternator pivot towards the motor so the belt would slide on.... But then you gotta get the alternator pulled back out & the bolt holes lined back up which becomes the new struggle. Lol
Apparently there is no belt available that is just 0.5" or 1" longer than the one I've got, so I'm probably going to look into getting a smaller idler pulley to replace either the new one that comes with the ATS kit, or the oem one... I think
people are using Gates part # 38052 in place of the oem idler pulley to free up a little wiggle room, the tensioner is basically maxed out right now doing nothing, & I don't like that... No way that's good on your accessory bearings & whatnot, I see them wearing out much sooner than usual.
Anyway, we got everything back together & took it for a spin, no leaks, rail pressure seems to be acting normal, no high pressure at startup & no erratic behavior while driving, everything is acting like it should, so no issues with the controller it seems.
I've heard people say that their trucks run smoother & just better overall with the second CP3 added, even if you don't necessarily need
it... Not sure if its just my imagination but I would have to say that I agree with that statement as well.
Sunday morning I decided to go ahead & load up the max effort (for stock injectors) tune that I had waiting for me from Anarchy .
Once again, super smooth, no issues, was a lot less smokey than I was afraid it would be, had to double check that I had the right tune loaded up, lol. I took the RPM up pretty high a few times to see if the belt would fly off lol, pegged out the rail pressure to 24k several times & maxed out the oem boost sensor more than once as well, I'd say all is well.
The new bracket freed up a little more space between the pump & the intake horn as well, the picture below is a little bit deceiving because the left photo wasn't taken very straight, but you can still tell there is 1/4" to 3/8" more room now.
It would work fine as is for years to come, but I still want to get that supply hose off the throttle valve, rather than waste $80 on a throttle valve delete I decided to just go ahead & finally upgrade the intake horn itself.
I usually recommend the GDP intake horn, & its still one of my favorites for sure. but I decided to go with the BD Diesel intake for my own truck & here's why.
1. Fitment. I really like the simple, fabricated tubing look of the Pusher intake, but I highly doubt it would fit, I wasn't able to get an answer from Pusher or ATS, and I know others have had fitment issues with Pusher.... So I took that one off the table. I know the BD intake fits thanks to this DPP listing
for the ATS kit.
2. Optional Grid Heater. GDP is the only other intake I know of that has this option, but it takes the place of the throttle valve, so if you wanted the option of a grid heater with your GDP intake, you'd have to buy the S-2 intake for about $370, and then the high flow heater for an additional $330. I don't plan on running a grid heater at all, I live in Texas & I've been fine without one for years, but I do like having the option, just in case I end up somewhere that actually gets legit cold, or if I run into cold start issues after I get my injectors done, etc.
The BD intake has a threaded port in the side that's plugged by default, but if you decide you want a grid heater you just buy this handy little $95 heater coil
& screw it in that port & connect your wiring & bam! Grid heater.
3. Six bolt design without sacrificing flow area. A lot of aftermarket intakes (GDP included) are a five bolt design, they eliminate the middle/outside bolt so that they can have maximum flow area through the middle, the BD intake has a hole in the top so you can install the bolt from inside the intake & use all six bolts without sacrificing the flow area that you would with a bolt boss that runs to the top/outside of the intake (careful not to drop the bolt down into the shelf! Lol). This isn't a big deal IMO, and not a BD exclusive by any means, I know the AFE Blade Runner intake & a few others do the same thing, but it just seems more secure than a five bolt design. (Although having the bolt head inside the intake opens up the possibility of having a boost leak right there, or the even worse possibility of the bolt backing out & getting sucked into the motor... That would be a bad, bad day, lol). Its also worth mentioning that the GDP intakes do have a little stud cast into them that goes through the bolt hole in the gasket & down into the bolt hole in the intake shelf, doesn't add any clamping force, but should help the gasket from blowing out right there.
4. Price. I've already mentioned that the GDP S-2 intake + high flow heater would cost you about $700, and you'd still have the stock cold side boost tube (between the intercooler & intake horn). The BD intake for $395 comes with
a new 3.5" boost tube & once you add the optional Heater Kit (Part# 1041563) for $95 you're looking at $490 all said & done, plus the fact that I had a $50 discount code for Summit Racing, it was a no brainer for me, lol. (Again, not bashing GDP in any way, just explaining my reasons for going with BD after preaching GDP for so long!) The intake is in the mail so I should be able to slap in on this weekend, I'll take some pics when I'm done.
Anyway, the truck feels good! I'm a happy camper, cant wait to get the injectors done & see what this baby can really do!