Deleting on The Cheap - Page 3 - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
4th Gen Performance Parts Discussion Discussion of Performance Parts For the 4th Gen Trucks...NO ADVERTISING

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post #25 of 592 (permalink) Old 04-12-2013, 09:03 PM Thread Starter
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Look forward to your results!
I have been known to "try stuff."



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post #26 of 592 (permalink) Old 04-17-2013, 11:14 PM
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So ... did you try it yet? Lol

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post #27 of 592 (permalink) Old 04-17-2013, 11:17 PM Thread Starter
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So ... did you try it yet? Lol
No. Doing other stuff right now. Someone with a 2012 should as they would be the core beneficiaries!

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post #28 of 592 (permalink) Old 04-20-2013, 02:02 AM
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I have a project lined up for tomorrow. I'm going to be cutting off the cat-muffler (past muffler). keeping the same stock 4" pipe size. Replacing the cat-muffler with 90" of straight 4" pipe. Ill be welding the cat side pipe and I bumped (expanded) the muffler side so the old 4" could fit in the new pipe, since I don't own a pipe/tube bender. I also will be cutting holes into the new pipe and welding plugs in there so all the sensors and wires will go back in the same place. I'm doing this since I can't afford the H&S at this time. The exhaust is just temporary. Sound about right??
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post #29 of 592 (permalink) Old 04-20-2013, 02:44 AM Thread Starter
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I dunno? I only know about off the shelf stuff like I mentioned in my first post. Good luck with your project tomorrow!


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post #30 of 592 (permalink) Old 04-20-2013, 03:00 AM
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If I don't have the 4 100ohm sims, can I plug them right back in? Or will this cause problems?
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post #31 of 592 (permalink) Old 04-20-2013, 03:18 AM
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The sensors are to detect restrictions within a normal range. With the DPF, NOx gone it will be far outside the normal range. Also the EGT readings will not be in the factory range. If deleting were as simple as redoing the exhaust, far fewer tuners would be sold. I am almost positive it will de rate on you or go to limp mode after a few miles of driving. I got this from another thread
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post #32 of 592 (permalink) Old 04-20-2013, 08:43 AM Thread Starter
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The sensors are to detect restrictions within a normal range. With the DPF, NOx gone it will be far outside the normal range. Also the EGT readings will not be in the factory range. If deleting were as simple as redoing the exhaust, far fewer tuners would be sold. I am almost positive it will de rate on you or go to limp mode after a few miles of driving. I got this from another thread
I have no earthly idea what you are talking about. SIMS combined with a delete pipe with bungs is a tried and true method of deleting. No limp. No de-rate. Many people are doing it.

Race Tuners are just MUCH better.

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post #33 of 592 (permalink) Old 04-20-2013, 12:40 PM
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You where talking about doing the delete with SIMS. I'm thinking of doing it without SIMS. But after reading a whole bunch of different wed sites and different threads it sounds like I will run into a bunch of code problems. I was thinking of a cheaper and more country way of doing it, but I don't think it will work without SIMS.
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post #34 of 592 (permalink) Old 04-20-2013, 01:58 PM
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The map is after turbo,
it is located on the intake horn just before where the EGR valve is mounted, on the backside.


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I don't think you should get a cel or derate from removing the butterfly plate. The MAF sensor is pre-turbo,
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post #35 of 592 (permalink) Old 04-20-2013, 04:52 PM Thread Starter
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You where talking about doing the delete with SIMS. I'm thinking of doing it without SIMS. But after reading a whole bunch of different wed sites and different threads it sounds like I will run into a bunch of code problems. I was thinking of a cheaper and more country way of doing it, but I don't think it will work without SIMS.
Right -- There are two major emissions issues -- EGR and REGENS. Set aside EGR for a sec.

WHY SIMS WORK:

The regens are initiated by the ECM based upon what information it receives from the pressure sensor and is assisted by the four (4) temperature sensors. If you put 100ohm sims in the plugs that went to the temperature sensors (and unplug the hoses for the pressure sensor), the ECM interprets that as "Catalyst Over Temp" condition from the 100ohm resistance in the SIMS. The code it generates is a P1484. This is good. The ECM will not try to do a regen after making this interpretation. The hoses being removed leaves and even balance of pressure from the atmosphere.

This is why SIMS work. The P1484 code is benign. It doesn't seem to affect anything and for me and it hasn't caused a check engine light, though I was told to expect it.

The 4 SIMS cost $68 delivered from RSD.

EGR

As for the EGR -- if you have a 2010, you're golden. Just unplug the upper farther back plug. This will create a CEL and code, but too, is benign. You can do the same on some 2011's and I don't know about 2012's. Apparently on these people have reported a de-rate condition.
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Last edited by 67guzzler; 04-20-2013 at 04:54 PM.
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post #36 of 592 (permalink) Old 04-22-2013, 03:04 AM
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Thanks so much for the info, I'm going to order those SIMS now and try it out. Now about the EGR What is the upper farther back plug? Or should I do the removal of the butterfly valve? When I get the H&S mini maxx with exhaust, can I still leave those sims in? Or does H&S give you things for that?
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