CCV Delete - How To, with pics - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 1126 (permalink) Old 03-23-2012, 07:03 PM Thread Starter
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CCV Delete - How To, with pics

Tools-
5/16 socket, extension, ratchet, etc, to remove bolts and possibly clamps
1/4" nut driver, to possibly remove clamps
flat blade screw driver, cause you always need one for something
snap blade utility knife, to cut the filer element
sharp chisel, 1/2" or so, to remove the glue
Dremel with cut off wheel, cause it works a whole lot better than a hack saw

So I guess the idea here is to protect this and everything after it from oil build up and crap.



Also, I guess there is the potential for the CCV filter to become overly clogged with oil and not allow the crankcase to vent properly, which supposedly would be hard on various seals throughout the engine. Plus, no self respecting American would have their diesel engine eating it's own waste... here in America we just dump that crap on the ground ;-)

So first I just removed the CCV hose, then the eight bolts that hold the valve cover-cover or CCV filter cover down, then the oil cap. Then lift it straight off. Put the oil cap back on and cover up the top of the valve cover with something to keep crap from falling down in there.

Remove the filter from the cover and it will look like this.



This part you can do however you want, just don't break the main housing. I cut the corners off like this with the dremel tool and then the posts pull up and out of there, no glue at all.




Next I cut right down the middle so I could work on both side separately.

I then started to do a little prying, You can see how it broke apart, just don't brake the part you are saving. I could extend a snap blade utility knife way out and kinda slip it in there and cut the plastic from the filter material. I was able to finally pull one side off, then the other. I'm throwin in a couple extra pics... you guys that really wanna know how this works from the factory should be able to see and know what you are looking at.






Once you get both sides off and most of the filter material gone it will look like this.



Now the easy part (literally). I found the best thing to use for the next part was a chisel... make sure it is stupid sharp. I used a relatively narrow one (1/2"). Each channel is about 3/4"-1" wide... The glue comes up so easy though. Once you get under it, it will practically peel off. It would probably have peeled off easier if it was warmer than 40 degrees in my garage.



Now just remove the remaining bits of glue and clean it up in the kitchen sink when your wife isn't lookin. I used some goof-off and rubbing alcohol to just to be safe.





This is a picture of the under side of the cover. I'm not sure what this contraption is, but when I blew through it there was no restriction at all either way, so I figured I'd leave it be.



Now just stick whats left of the filter you modified back into the cover (it will hang in there on it's own). Put the cover back on the valve cover and bolt it back down.

I bought these from NAPA. I used one to cap my S&B intake.




While you are at NAPA getting the cap for your intake, buy about 4'-5' of 3/4" heater hose. I cut a small piece of wire mesh to put over the drain end. I park my truck for long periods of time and I didn't want any critters running up that tube.



I routed my tube down the passenger side of the engine, towards the front just behind the alternator. You should be able to see from the pictures. I wanted it to hang at or in front of the front tires to minimize it's exposure to dust... though that really should matter anyway. Get underneath the truck and pull or push it to the level you want it to hang (mine is just below the bottom of the frame). Now go back up top, but it the right length and attach it to the filter cover connection.




Should be good to go!
No CEL. I do have a mini maxx, but that shouldn't matter, anyone can do this.





I ran mine a little and then took the cover back off. I figured there would be oil all over in there... but there wasn't. There was none at all. So I guess the way the valve cover is shaped, the only thing that really comes up is oil vapors and air. I am pretty sure any oil vapors that come out will condense on the inside of the filter housing and drain back in, I don't anticipate any oil ever dripping out of the puke tube. Here is a picture after running for a bit.




Bone stock, getting 4mpg, high idling in my driveway right now trying to get a regen in... Just like the EPA wants.

Last edited by CTDPWR; 03-25-2012 at 02:35 AM.
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post #2 of 1126 (permalink) Old 03-24-2012, 02:35 PM
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I have never heard of this. Does it help truck run cooler? Better?
What is that filter for in first place?

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post #3 of 1126 (permalink) Old 03-24-2012, 03:22 PM Thread Starter
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I did not see any difference in coolant temp or oil pressure. I picked my wife up after I was done and as soon as she got in she asked what I did now, cause it sounded healthier?... I didn't notice anything though.

Anywho, My guess the conversation went like this...

Well, to meet new EPA standards we can't let the crankcase vent to the open air anymore. OK, lets run it back into the intake. OK, but wait, won't the oil vapors stick to the turbo, intercooler and piping and stuff. Yep, that's why we have to stick a filter on there. OK, but then won't the filter eventually get clogged full of oil. Yep, and then we get to sell another filter. Score, it is a win win.

Bone stock, getting 4mpg, high idling in my driveway right now trying to get a regen in... Just like the EPA wants.
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post #4 of 1126 (permalink) Old 03-24-2012, 03:24 PM Thread Starter
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In my opinion the filter is a poor design and looked as if it was just an after thought thrown together to fit in the space provided. Plus the way it started to disintegrate when I began to mess with it was disturbing... I am paranoid big time about stuff goin in my engine. I'm the guy that puts a plastic bag and rubber band over his turbo every time he takes the intake off. All I can say is I'm glad to have that thing off the top of my engine.

Bone stock, getting 4mpg, high idling in my driveway right now trying to get a regen in... Just like the EPA wants.
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post #5 of 1126 (permalink) Old 03-24-2012, 06:44 PM
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Thank you. Just did mine today and it was right full of oil. But i have a question about why there is a big vent hole and a small one that the filter originally fit into? And why did the big vent have foam covering it and the little one never? Is that anything to be worried about when putting this back together?

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post #6 of 1126 (permalink) Old 03-24-2012, 09:48 PM Thread Starter
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There should actually be 3 vent holes going down. The big one is were the air will come out, the other two are where the oil goes in. The two that the oil drains into are connected to tubing that runs down to the block, and they have check valves in them.

The big hole had some type of what appeared to be like steel wool covering it. My guess is seperate the bulk of the oil from the air before it reached the paper filter.

It is fine with out it though.

Here is a picture:

Bone stock, getting 4mpg, high idling in my driveway right now trying to get a regen in... Just like the EPA wants.
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post #7 of 1126 (permalink) Old 03-24-2012, 10:22 PM
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Thanks. I got that center piece apart without wrecking it too badly (took forever) so i put it back in just empty. Hopefully it'll be ok. Just took it for a drive a few miles and seems fine, i think!

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post #8 of 1126 (permalink) Old 03-25-2012, 12:55 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rinconman29 View Post
Thanks. I got that center piece apart without wrecking it too badly (took forever) so i put it back in just empty. Hopefully it'll be ok. Just took it for a drive a few miles and seems fine, i think!
Just make sure it is clean... You don't want anything falling down into the top end.

Bone stock, getting 4mpg, high idling in my driveway right now trying to get a regen in... Just like the EPA wants.
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post #9 of 1126 (permalink) Old 03-26-2012, 02:07 AM
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Question

Could this CCV thing be the cause of the oil that finds its way all the way to the bottom of the bellhousing... http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/20...llhousing.html
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post #10 of 1126 (permalink) Old 03-26-2012, 04:08 AM Thread Starter
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I don't think the way it is set up stock that oil would leak from the filter or from under the filter cover assembly. Now if somebody told me they just removed the filter completely and didn't modify it like I showed above, then maybe I would question that, but probably not.

My first guess (having not read that thread) would have been a rear main.

My first guess (now having read that thread) would be excess assembly lube, like others stated.

I'm no mechanic though.

Bone stock, getting 4mpg, high idling in my driveway right now trying to get a regen in... Just like the EPA wants.
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post #11 of 1126 (permalink) Old 03-26-2012, 08:31 AM
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Can a 5.9 cover with the breather nipple on the Left side be used on the 6.7's? Will all the electrical connections hook up?

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post #12 of 1126 (permalink) Old 03-26-2012, 10:59 AM Thread Starter
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From what I've read it won't work at all, wrong size. There are companies that make aftermarket billet valve covers for the 6.7 though.

Bone stock, getting 4mpg, high idling in my driveway right now trying to get a regen in... Just like the EPA wants.
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