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DPF / EGR Delete on brand new truck

216K views 58 replies 30 participants last post by  Devilman 
#1 ·
Hey guys,

Looking for opinions on doing a dpf/egr delete on a brand new truck. I'm assuming I'm throwing the warranty out the window and taking a chance. However, I've had ford powersmokes that killed me on maintenance cost due to the egr and dpf's and high pressure fuel rails and would rather avoid that egr out of the gate instead of waiting until it blows all that into my engine.

Looking at the deletes, a h&s, cai, 4" exhaust.

Honestly, I only tow maybe 4-6 times a year and would only be about 8-10k. I know I'll prolly do the deletes at some point, I would rather do it now, so that doesn't go into my engine at all instead of waiting until it clogs up and doing it.

2015 ram 2500 6.7 with 1,000 miles.

Please throw some opiniions out here for me...Thanks!!
 
#2 ·
If you know you're going to delete anyways then assumedly there is no point in reiterating the reasons for deleting. To me it all comes down to your personal level of risk adversity. If you don't mind throwing away the warranty right off the bat then go for it. You obviously know that if something goes wrong with the truck that is not covered because of the deletes you will be paying out of pocket, even if said hypothetical issue would have occurred with the emissions system in tact. If you are concerned I would drive the truck for a few months stock and keep your oil changes frequent then delete.
 
#3 ·
I deleted my 2014 at 11,000 miles. I didn't have issues with the extra stuff before they were removed. I was aware of the loss of warranty and didn't mind that. Truck is a better driver now. But honestly it was fine to drive in stock form. No issues from deletes. But my truck is probably different than most of the trucks on here. It is a true country/farm truck. Maybe 15 miles a day, top speed of 50, lots of idle. Occasionally it travels further to the city, once a week or so. Probably has a trailer or farm implement hooked up to it every week or so.
My reason for delete was not because of failure of the emissions stuff. Tons of stock trucks on the road just fine. My choice to delete was purely personal and a "miss my deleted duramax" compensation.
Everything else is pretty much stock. Kept the 4" exhaust and went with the delete pipes. Stock airbox works just fine. EGR cooler is still installed, to busy to mess with removing, but tube is removed and blocked off. Ordered all my stuff through RollinSmokeDiesel and maintenance stuff comes from GenosGarage.
 
#4 ·
I was thinking about doing it also. I have a 2014 with 12,000 miles on it. Miss my 5.9 but like the new interior, manual auto tranny, and the exhaust brake. The 5.9 prices are ridiculous to even consider buying one used and don't want to go back to an older truck. Then if you go back to an older truck, you have no warranty anyway ! I would assume that your 3yr/36,000 mile warranty would be honored on non engine and powertrain claims if you delete. I keep thinking back to my 07 that had 40,000 miles on it without an issue and was out of warranty so did i really need the engine and powertrain warranty. Pete
 
#7 ·
I also have a 2015 and told myself Ill delete after warranty. I made it to 3,100 miles before I deleted it and now am at 4k. I absolutely love it. Mileage went from barely 14 in city (long idle and short drive time to work) to 16mpg even when being a little heavy on the throttle. As far as highway I went from 18mpg at 70-80mph to 22ish+mpg. This is all with a 90hp tune on the truck.
 
#18 ·
I think it's the best thing you can do for a diesel, delete it. A word of caution, you don't have a race transmission, mine went out at 32000 miles, just clowning around 4 or 5 times power braking. Drive normal and it'll last with a clean motor.
 
#15 ·
Cut and Paste from their website forum....they are dead ..no support..











H&S Performance Current Status:


H&S is not shut down, however we only have a few employees left. As many of you are aware, we had to pay a $1M settlement to CARB, and are still currently negotiating with the EPA to resolve an open issue with them.











Product Warranty:


We have not sold a tuner to a US customer in 2 years, and have not sold any tuners to foreign customers in over 1 year. Therefore, any products we legitimately sold are no longer under warranty. Please do not email or call for tech support as we no longer have anyone available to help you.





There have been hundreds if not thousands of counterfeit, bootleg, used, or stolen devices sold in the past few years. These products do not have any warranty. Just because you purchased it from a "reputable" shop or website, doesn't mean it is a genuine H&S product. We are under no obligation to help you troubleshoot a product that was made with stolen intellectual property.











Unlock Codes:


If you purchase an unlock code from us, and you have lost it, we WILL help you recover it.


Simply fill out this form and we will email you your code:


hsperformance.com/recover-lost-unlock/











VIN Locked Tuners:


If you have a VIN-locked tuner we cannot help you. We will not sell you an unlock code to unlock your tuner. There are several individuals or shops we believe to be in possession of stolen software, and may have the means to unlock a tuner. Any posts promoting these people will be deleted, and the user will be banned. Buying from these people is basically buying stolen property.











Tuner Updates:


Mini Maxx, XRT Pro, and Black Maxx will not receive any performance, feature, or improvement updates. We will not be adding any new vehicles to these products.











H&S Motorsports:


H&S Motorsports is NOT the same company as H&S Performance. Motorsports was created by ex-employees who wanted to develop hard parts such as turbo kits and fuel systems. Please do not call or email them about any H&S Performance products, as they cannot and will not be able to help you.


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#17 ·
I don't think you stirred anything up. It's just a topic that has been discussed several times. Myself and Im sure the others are just letting you know for more of "buyer beware" standpoint. I don't know the diesel shop, so Im not saying what they can or cannot do. Just don't want to see a thread in 6 months on how you got hosed by a fake, not correct model or re-branded tuner.
 
#19 ·
Every one wants to know how to do the cheapest mods. With understanding that money is tight sometimes, I just have to say we must keep the truck building tetrahedron in mind. You only get to choose two side. Any two sides...but only two. Cheap-powerful-reliable. Cheap+powerful=isnt reliable. Powerful+reliable= isnt cheap. And Reliable+cheap= isnt powerful. I always choose powerful and reliable. But to each their own.
 
#21 ·
Billiardbrawler- I have a 2012 2500. I went with a torque tech programmer with trans tune, egr/dpf delete, cold air intake and turbo back exhaust. I love my truck. Plenty of power but also reliability. It cost me a little more for the trans tune and the block of kits and what not but I feel I did it properly. I've been running the deletes for about 15k miles and have t had a single problem. And I normally keep my tuner set on hot. Whats the sense in adding horsepower if I have to make adjustments to use it? I don't dog it every where but the extra little boost on the highway or from a traffic light is nice.
 
#22 ·
Subscribed. I love my 2015 Limited Mega with 2,800 miles on it (have had for a month now). It's lifted 5" w/ 35's (dealer took to reputable shop the second week I owned as part of the purchase agreement) which caused me to lose about 4mpg. I'd like to get some of that back. I spend a bit of time on the highway (2k-3k per month) and some idling at the job site (some days a couple of hours). I'm not into "rolling coal" (would actually prefer not to smoke or at least not all the time) and not looking to blow head gaskets or tranny. I don't drag race from light to light and typically run cruise control at 74-77mph on interstate. If I want to go fast, I get in my vette. This is my "work truck" and I intend to keep it a long while (wife gives me a hard time because many of my half-ton HEMI's have only been in the stable for 1yr before getting another). Truck has 3.42's in the rear. I don't tow either, this truck was a "because I can" purchase and is my company truck.

What would be the "optimal" package to gain some mpg back and maybe a little more power (no, I'm not getting rid of the lift and tires)?

Thanks in advance!
 
#24 ·
What about 37s? I have 37s new from my last truck that weren't installed and was looking to put them on my ram but I'm not sure if my 3:42 gears would handle it, seeing as how this truck had plenty torque abd power, I would imagine they would be ok, and others on this forum I read said it would be ok with 3:42. Is that true? I was thinking of getting 4:88 for the 37s, possibly 38s in the future.

My last truck had 35s with 4:56 gears but it was a gasser.
 
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