Death wobble (I think) - Page 2 - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
4th Gen Cab & Chassis Discussion of performance, powertrain, and non-powertrain on Cab & Chassis Trucks....NO ADVERTISING

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post #13 of 55 (permalink) Old 01-18-2017, 10:32 PM Thread Starter
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Taking it back on Friday so they can test the shocks and see if they are OK. There is no leaking oil etc. so visual inspection was fine. They also checked hubs U joints etc. and did not see anything.


2012 6.7 3" Rough Country Lift 35" BFG KO2' Rough Country Steering Brace and Dual Steering Stabilizer
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post #14 of 55 (permalink) Old 01-18-2017, 10:34 PM Thread Starter
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new rims will cost a bunch of money. And I can go with a better tire these are half way worn anyway when it is time to replace. There just has to be more going on than tires right now. It has to be something mechanical like mentioned above.

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post #15 of 55 (permalink) Old 01-18-2017, 11:27 PM
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Half worn is about when the BFG's start causing issues, the tire sidewalls are breaking down and they act like pop sticks in harsh conditions.

It is probably a combination of things start the oscillations and letting them get out of hand, it usually is. Sometimes you change 1 contributory factor and stops it, other times it changes it to a different trigger. I have seen people rebuild every component in the front because that is what they were told to do and still not stop DW completely, or at all. When the shocks and\or tires are changed out the problem disappears. Having a lift\leveling on these trucks with the suspension design pushes them that much closer to the edge.

Not sure how they are going to test the shocks but am not at all confident you will see any results. If one or both of the front shocks is obviously bad then sure, but no leaks and they work even close to what they should it won't be found. The valving is key to the rebound damping and that changes as the shocks heat up. Unless they have one of those fancy chassis machines that will work the shock like being on the road and be able to measure actual damping force I have doubts they can adequately be "checked".

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post #16 of 55 (permalink) Old 01-19-2017, 01:49 AM
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Get yourself a set of Toyos, I will bet the DW subsides if your track bar and steering linkage is in good shape. I was able to drive my truck at 75 mph, towing a fifth wheel over 299 miles, with 2/3 worn 35x17 Toyo m/t without a steering stabilizer after destroying it on a stump. I have customers that come in with DW and BFG tires that just can't believe that their tires are the cause, so they just keep buying parts. Once they finally let go of those POS Jeep tires, and throw on a set of Toyos, they are finally believers. I would love to sell you new shocks, but you don't need them. I would rather see your problem get fixed.


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post #17 of 55 (permalink) Old 01-19-2017, 01:56 AM Thread Starter
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Get yourself a set of Toyos, I will bet the DW subsides if your track bar and steering linkage is in good shape. I was able to drive my truck at 75 mph, towing a fifth wheel over 299 miles, with 2/3 worn 35x17 Toyo m/t without a steering stabilizer after destroying it on a stump. I have customers that come in with DW and BFG tires that just can't believe that their tires are the cause, so they just keep buying parts. Once they finally let go of those POS Jeep tires, and throw on a set of Toyos, they are finally believers. I would love to sell you new shocks, but you don't need them. I would rather see your problem get fixed.


Which toyos's? I do have 17" wheels. If it really is the tires making this thing vibrate every bump I hit I would gladly change them out. It does not absorb bumps well at all.

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post #18 of 55 (permalink) Old 01-19-2017, 02:00 AM
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Pick the tread that suits you. M/T, R/T, A/T2 they are all stout tires. I always run M/T, but that just suits my use. We've been having great results from the R/T.


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post #19 of 55 (permalink) Old 01-19-2017, 02:04 AM
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If it really is the tires making this thing vibrate every bump I hit I would gladly change them out. It does not absorb bumps well at all.
Not absorbing bumps is not death wobble. Death wobble is a violent, uncontrollable shaking that makes the truck almost impossible to control until you slow the truck down to usually somewhere below 45 mph. Are you sure you have death wobble, or just a rough riding truck?


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post #20 of 55 (permalink) Old 01-19-2017, 02:12 AM Thread Starter
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Not absorbing bumps is not death wobble. Death wobble is a violent, uncontrollable shaking that makes the truck almost impossible to control until you slow the truck down to usually somewhere below 45 mph. Are you sure you have death wobble, or just a rough riding truck?


At slow speeds it is just not taking bumps well,at 70 it has run me off the road 3 times and only after hits breaks hard do I get control back. It is 100% death wable.

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post #21 of 55 (permalink) Old 01-19-2017, 07:30 AM
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Yep, you got it.


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post #22 of 55 (permalink) Old 01-20-2017, 08:46 PM Thread Starter
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So I took it to a third place today. I was told that all four tie rods and track bar have a little play in their connections. Repair $1500. This veteran Mopar mechanic said he is 90% sure this will fix the wobble. This truck has 132,000 miles on it. I bought it last year with 100,000 miles and the water pump went out almost immediately followed by the EGR (so I deleted it) now this. I still think it is a good truck, but I am getting discouraged. Thanks for the input everyone. Now I have to decide to trade or fix.

2012 6.7 3" Rough Country Lift 35" BFG KO2' Rough Country Steering Brace and Dual Steering Stabilizer
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post #23 of 55 (permalink) Old 01-20-2017, 10:12 PM
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Have you added a dual stabilizer yet? I used Skyjacker, they range from $135 to $215 according to what year model truck you have.

I had the same problem when I put 24" Alcoa's to the front of my truck, my tires are 36" tall. I had a dual stabilizer installed over a year and half on it and haven't had a problem since then.

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post #24 of 55 (permalink) Old 01-20-2017, 10:38 PM
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A little play in the tie rods, track bar, wheel bearings, or ball joints will NOT cause DW. It sure doesn't do anything to limit it but by itself or all together none of those will cause DW to start. People that tell you that are looking to make money addressing the symptoms not the source, or, they have no clue how the suspension system on these trucks work. If you had enough slack in those parts to cause DW you would be herding it down the road not driving it. Unless it is totally trashed, the dual stabilizer will stop any movement in the tie rods and even BJ's that would start a shimmy. It won't stop the movement in the track bar but that will never be completely gone as it is designed to have some.

Short and simple, DW is uncontrolled rebound that turns in a self sustaining oscillation of the front axle. The axle itself is moving in 3 dimensions at the same time and individual sides are moving almost opposite each other in 2 of the dimensions which perpetuates the oscillation. It is actually bouncing off the stops in all the bushing areas, track bar and control arms, plus compressing the suspension parts beyond what they can damp out; springs, tires, and shocks. Rebound happens in 2 areas; spring\shocks and tires. It either of those 2 areas are soft or incapable of controlling sharp direction changes you WILL have DW, not a matter of IF, a matter of WHEN. EVERY other part in the steering and suspension can be worn past safe and it will NOT go into DW as long as the tires and shocks are capable of controlling the rebound.

Your choice, but, you can find every forum littered with stories of rebuilding every component on advice from the experts and still have issues when they simply cannot believe they super duper special shock or their special expert advice tires are the real problem.
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