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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-11-2008, 09:03 AM Thread Starter
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Allright Fellas I Just installed Arp head studs, Hamilton Valve Springs and some new DDP 110 hp injector tips this write up is going to be long and extensive but should help any of you wanting to to this type of project...

First of all Time line.. I would venture to guess you could do this all in a weekend with a few beer I was super anal about this so I took my time and did it over the extent of two weeks in the evenings and sometimes not even working on it...

Items your goona need before you even start...

Black magic Marker
Extra ARP stud lube.
Magnetic extension
Magnetic Tray
A very clean work bench or as in my case two saw horses with a 4x8 sheet of plywood
Mechanics gloves (not a must but shure helped)
Blue medical gloves (also not a much but I wish I would have gotten some) the blue ones are heavier and wont tear so easily..
A note pad for taking notes..(i have a shoooort memory!!!!)
a Telescoping mirror or atleast a mirror to see springs in the number six position...
Cummins barring tool (optional but makes like soooo much easier)

Spring Compressor tool (miller tools has one also sourceautomotive has one!!)

Feeler guage

Inch pound tq wrench
Ft pound tq wrench

Screw Driver set along with Tq bit set
Box of Zip loc bags!! ( i will explain this later)
Camera to take pics in case you forget something...
Step ladder
CELL PHONE!!! (if your goona do these mods pm me and I will give you my cell phone number and if you have questions I will gladly help out!!)

Allright first step for me was to get a good clean work area... I have no shop or access to a shop so I did all this in my driveway at home... So for a work bench I used two heavy duty saw horses and a 4x8 sheet of plywood. From there I laid out all my tools..

First thing I did was parked my truck on flat ground.. Blocked all four tires and set the emergency brake. From there I disconnected both batteries using the 1/2 wrench.
Next I removed the six 10 mm bolts holding the plastic valve cover on..

From there I removed the 11 mm clamp holding the intake on.. Then I completely unbolted the intake horn and grid off the motor. Then I removed the 10 mm bolts holding the Intake, dipstick and wiring on the back side of the intke... I then laid the wiring off to the side and completely removed the intake.. I took my black magic marker and marked the front of the intake grid and the gaskets, marking which one was top and bottom and front on each one..

Once I had the intake out of the way and wiring removed I lifted the plastic valve cover off the motor. This will now expose your Rockers, injectors, and springs along with stock head studs.

I cleaned all the injector wiring harness and took my notepad out and wrote down the wiring sequence on the injectors. Although not necessary because the wiring is all on e big harnesss I did it just to be safe and took pics of each injector with the wiring installed. Injectors 1 and 4 will have the same color code as does 2 and 5 and 3 and 6 likewise...

1 and 4 were

Yellow Right orange left

2 and 5 were
Red Right Brown left

3 and six were
Blue right green left.

Then I removed the 8mm injector wires of each injector.. Next I removed the factory wiring harness that plugs into the injector harness that sits just below the plastic valve cover. I then laid them to the right hand side of the motor compartment out of the way of any harm. Then remove the Injector fuel wiring assembly just a pull on the front corner will loosen it and lift it up out of the way. I placed mine in a large clean garbage bag and sealed it off to keep it clean as well as the valve cover.

Next you will have to remove 7 10 mm bolts holding the riser box down.. This is where the ziploc bags come into place... I numbered my motor compartment starting from the front going to the back... The front being one and the back geing six.. So when I removed items from cylinder 1 they were marked 1 etc... Sooo when I removed each 10 mm bolt off of the riser box it was labeled where it came from and put in a ziploc baggie so that it would go back in it's original space.. ( not sure how crucial it is but better to be safe than sorry)

Then I removed the Rocker assembly's completely as I planned on doing springs so it was a must.. Again I marked my ziploc bags 1-6 for each part taken off of each cylinder..

Next I removed the whole fuel assembly to open up room to work and it just made life simple.. First step was to disconnect the fuel rail supply completely there is a nut just under the fuel assembly that is all it takes and gently bend the line out of the way..
Next disconnect the 19mm fuel connection lines that go to the connector tubes all six of them. To get to number six you will have to remove the factory "motor hook" that is just in front of injector tube number six once I removed mine it stayed off. You can put it back on if you want but it was a pain in the arse so It's in my tool bin. If for some reason I have to pull the motor I know where it's at. Now gently move each connector tube out of the way
Then I removed the 10 mm fuel assembly hold down nuts I think there is five of em... Sorry can't remmeber at the Once these were removed You just lift up on the whole fuel rail and it comes out.

Next remove the map sensor from the intake with a T15 Torx bit and set it in a baggie.

Next to remove the injectors you have to remove the connector tubes. These are what your fuel lines were connected to.
This will require a 24 mm nut that holds down the connector tubes. again I had plastic baggies labeled injecter 1-6 and stating connector tubes. once you have the nut that holds the connector tube off ( make sure you have gloves on the threads are super sharp) you grab the connector tube and wiggle in an outward motion and they should just pop right out..

Now its time to remove the injectors...
Each injector has two 8 mm bolts that hold it into place... I removed the two bolts from each injector and placed them into a baggie that was labeled injector 1-6 bolts... Obviously a bag for each injector had two bolts in it..
Once the bolts were off I was able to pull the first three injectors out by hand.. the last three I had to use a screw driver and pryed just a little and they popped right out.. After each injector is removed MAKE SURE THE COPPER WASHER COMES OUT TOO!! I then placed each injector in it's properly labeled baggie to later change the tips out!!

I had some super heavy duty paper towels (the blue ones) and i tore them in fourths and then rolled them up into neat cigar like shapes and put them into the injector bore holes to keep any debree from falling into the hole.


There are 26 studs that come in the arp box 6 longer and the rest are the same the six longer go on the outside of the valve cover in the exhaust position's. Left hand side of the motor. The rest go inside the valve cover and in the next pic you will see the hex heads sticking up next to the stock springs..

Following arp's instructions I started in the center of the motor and the number three cylinder and worked in a clock wise motion taking one head stud out and replacing the factory one with an arp head stud after installing it to a hand tightened position I then installed the arp nut and torqued each one down at 90 ft lbs.

after a sweat filled two hours i had them all removed and torqued down to 90 ft lbs.. Once that was done I then went back in and retorqued them at 110 ft lbs and then two more times at 135 ft lbs of torque

Now your head is studded and ready for boost!!!

2012 - 3500 - 3" Thuren Soft RIde with DT PRO FAB Long Arms - Fass - FLeece/Cheetah - AMP - S and B - 20s x 37s

Last edited by Luvnacummins; 11-16-2008 at 01:39 PM.
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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-11-2008, 09:03 AM Thread Starter
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Allright out of the three things being done here SPrings on a scale of one to ten are a 10 compared to the first two.
You will need a way to rotate the motor to get it to top dead center. THen a spring compressor to compress the springs. I borrowed the Miller spring compressor from my supplier who I bought the springs from. My only complaint with the miller IMO is that there is a design flaw and they must know about it because the bolt in the center of the tool is drilled out and has a barrel bolt through the center thus making it a weak point and guess what while finishing up number six and taking it off it sheered in half!! thank god I had all the collets in and ready...

Broken shaft..

Obviously number 1234 cylinders are super easy five not so bad six is a MOFO!! but you can do it...

Ok here is where the barring tool came in to play and it is a nice peice to have I paid $49 for mine and got it from cummins... If any one needs to use it they can use mine just pay shipping..

Now crawl under your truck and on the passenger side about where your turbo downpipe starts is your flywheel... THere is a small hook shaped cover.

There are 2 10 mm nuts holding it on there.. JUST LOOSTEN THEM as the cover hinges on one of the nuts and so you don't have to take them all the way off. Slide the cover downward this will allow you to see two holes. The lower outer hole is where the barring tool fits into the flywheel cover. From there connect your barring tool to a 1/2 drive socket and put it into the hole on the flywheel cover. Then go topside to your motor and find injector hole number one. I placed a long 4-1/2 phillips screw driver into the injector hole and it fell down clear into the hole like an injector..(depending on where your motor stops it might not fall that far) If you have a buddy to help you it will save some time on this part.. now go back and start cranking the motor over.. If your doing it alone crank about 15 time then get out and look at the screwdriver see if it has moved up the injector hole via the piston pushing on it. According to my "screwdriver methond" my motor was top dead center when 3-7/8 inches of the screw driver was down in the injector bore hole... I marked that on the screwdriver for reverence on the next sequence.. I could also look down the injector hole and see the top of the piston..

2012 - 3500 - 3" Thuren Soft RIde with DT PRO FAB Long Arms - Fass - FLeece/Cheetah - AMP - S and B - 20s x 37s
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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-17-2008, 10:46 AM Thread Starter
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Here is the barring tool in place..

After you have rotated the motor to get cylinder #1 top dead center you are ready to start the springs..

The spring tool is made to bolt down into the injector hole.. I tore a heave duty shop towl in quarters folded it up so all the torn edges were in the center and then stuffed it down the injector hole. Then I placed the spring compressor tool in the injector bore hole and tightened the 8 mm nuts to hold the tool in place..

From there you will then add the spring compressor plate to compress the springs.. The miller tool had an arrow that showed which way the tool was supposed to be facing forward towards the motor.

Now it's compression time.. It's pretty simple all you do is but a Socket on the compression nut and start to compress the the top plate... Once you get close to having the tool completely compressed you will look down and the springs and see the valve stem's poking up.. On each valve stem there are 2 collets that are the locking systems for the valves and spring retainers.. For some reason I did not get a picture of them but they are pretty self explanitory. If you can picture a donut surrounding a shaft then cut it in half that's what they are. removing them can be very tricky I used very powerful extension magnet and a flat headed screwdriver. I did find out that after the bolt on the spring compressor tool broke I got a longer bolt and it made compressing the springs 10X easier and it also made removing the collets alot easier..

Any ways after you remove all of the collets for each set of four spring which is a total of 8 collets the springs are ready to be removed. I used a Magnetic tray and had it setting very close to each cylinder i was doing in case I somehow dropped a collet i would hopefully hit the tray. and another reason I filled each hole with a paper towel was to keep debree from fallin into the injector bore hole!!

Spring gone!!
If you look at this picture you will see the top of the valve stems have a groove around the top of them that is where the collets sill seat around the valve stem and when they are seated the sit smoothly around the valve stem.

Hamilton VS stock

Now remember when you do each cylinder you can do two.. BUT they must add up to 7..

That being said you can do 1 and 6! 2 and 5. and 3 and 4!!:thumbsup

Obviously if you looking at your motor six is a SOB... It took me two hours total to do that sucker.. I finally had to walk away and come back and it finally went together..

A trick for number six is to get a miror and place it on the back of the motor on the firewall so you can see what is going on in there. Take your time it will be the most frustrating one but once it is done you can do the rest if 45 minutes easily!! Also when you are done with each cylinder you should take the compression tool off check to see if each collets is sitting smoothly and on the retainer and take a rubber mallet and tap on the top of the valve to make sure the collets, springs and retainers are seated properly.

2012 - 3500 - 3" Thuren Soft RIde with DT PRO FAB Long Arms - Fass - FLeece/Cheetah - AMP - S and B - 20s x 37s

Last edited by Luvnacummins; 08-17-2008 at 10:50 AM.
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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-17-2008, 11:25 AM Thread Starter
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Now your ready to start re-assembling motor.. But your not done yet...

Once the rockers and injectors are re-installed you need to lash the valves..

(Exerpt from
You will need to again make sure your motor is top dead center. When you do this your rocker levers should be loose if not you need to rotate the motor another 360 degrees.

With the engine in this position, valve lash can be measured at the following rocker arms: Intake 1-2-4 and exhaust 1-3-5. Measure the valve lash by inserting a feeler guage between the rocker arm socket and the crossheads. If the measurement feels within the limits adjustments is not necessary. If measurements finds the lash outside the limits, adjustment must b edone..

If adjustment is required loosen the lock nut on the rocker arms and turn the adjusting screw until the desired lash is obtained. Intake lash is .010 and exhast is .026 tighten the lock nut to 18 ftlbs and recheck valve lash.

Using the crankshaft barring tool rotate the crankshaft one revolution (360degrees) to align the damper tdc mark to the 12 o clock position

With the engine in this position, valve lash can be measured and the remaining rocker arms, intake 3-5-6 and exhaust at 2-4-6.

Once valve lash is in order you can put it all back together..

Hopefully this can help anyone who wants to tack le these projects.. After doing the write up i realized I could have taken 1000's of pictures... lol

You can pm me if you need help with any of this...:thumbsup

2012 - 3500 - 3" Thuren Soft RIde with DT PRO FAB Long Arms - Fass - FLeece/Cheetah - AMP - S and B - 20s x 37s
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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-17-2008, 12:46 PM
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thanks for doing that, awesome write up shane:thumbsup

i always like to start at #6, get the hardest over with first, when im full on energy and patience.

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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-17-2008, 01:15 PM
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Well done Shane! :thumbsup

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post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-17-2008, 01:43 PM
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Awesome write up Shane!:thumbsup

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post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-17-2008, 01:47 PM
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Very good write up buddy! This will save people who are doing these mods tons. :thumbsup
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post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-17-2008, 01:59 PM
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WOW, Shane! GREAT Job! :thumbsup

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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-17-2008, 02:22 PM
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Nice write up .I saved it in my favorites.

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post #11 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-17-2008, 03:00 PM
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Awesome job. I thank you a TON! :thumbsup

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post #12 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-17-2008, 06:06 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks fellas there is even more I keep forgetting that I will go back and add but I tried to get it up and running so anyone who wants to do these mods will have a good idea what it takes..

2012 - 3500 - 3" Thuren Soft RIde with DT PRO FAB Long Arms - Fass - FLeece/Cheetah - AMP - S and B - 20s x 37s
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