Replacing front hubs

[OverHaulin316]

Not how I wanted to spend my weekend.
But my hub assembly went out.
Things you DO NOT NEED TO DO,
remove the diff cover.
disconnect the axel shaft.

First take you wheel off.


Then Disconnect you brake assembly




After that using a pry bar, stick it in between your axle or u-joints, this will prevent your axle from spinning while you loosen axle bolt, be sure to remove the cotter pin.
That bolt is a 44MM socket






Then pull your rotor off


After that disconnect you tie rod


Then remove the dust cover


Now you will need to motivate the hub off with a hammer or air chisel.

After that this is what you should look like






There are no bearing to replace, by themselves on our trucks.
It is one unit.
This is what it looks like.

And comes with a new ABS sensor.

Slide the new unit on, and use a rubber mallet to get it started, BE SURE THAT YOU SEAT IT ON CORRECTLY.

After you get that on start your bolts


And then tighten the bolts evenly, to suck it up against the housing.


After you have done that, now get you axle bolt and tighten it down.
(this bolt needs to be torqued to 185ft/lbs)
Then insert the cotter key in the hole.
Doing this will prevent the nut from vibrating off.

Now you can put your rotor back on.




Now put your brake assembly back together.




Then the tie rod


Then connect the new ABS sensor to the brake lines(they are equipped with clips.




Then connect the sensor and stick the nipple behind you inner fender in it's proper hole.

Now put your tire back on, tighten the lug nuts.
Let the truck off the jack stands get in crank it up and listen to her whistling dixie.

If I missed anything I'm sorry.
Hope this helps.

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2005 CTD front bumper replacement, Hella 550, BULLY, and the new edition XD HOSS's BLACK

[fxwannabe]

That was a good little how to. Need to put that in the tech section.

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04.5 2500 4wd, 6 speed, 3.73 gears Mods: 4" Superlift, 315/70/17 BFG A/T's, Silencer MIA, Thuren track bar, diPricol boost, egt, and fp gauges, Crazy Larry 330hp/620tq
<----- Getting a 12 valve when I get cash.

[Nuttymopar]

Great Pictures.

Another way to get the HUB bolts off is to use a long 1/2" extension on your socket and wedge it between the hub bolts (loosened but not removed) and the front axle or where ever it may fit. Then slightly turn steering wheel one way, then swap to the other bolt and turn the other way. This will slowly push the hub bolts right out with out damaging them from a impact wrench. It took me a couple of good turns to get mine off but much better then beating them to death.

I didn't need to take the TieRod end off at all.

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Scott
2005 2500, Auto, TC lockup switch, RokkTech sensor, RokkTech muffler, Gutted chrome torque tube, Ram Snorkel on air box, Mopar cold weather kit. Pro Comp Extreme A/T 35's.

[Graphic Man]

moved to the tech section and made it a Sticky

nice work :thumbsup

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2001 4X4 Q-cab Sport black, full billet DTT trans, billet F-plate Mach 7's, B1-B2 twins, Blue Chip Special X VP, Adrenaline, studded & O-ringed, BD-RAD,Flex-A-Lite electric fans, Autometer Gages, Egt, Boost,Fuel, Oil &,drive pressure, trans temp, RASP, Big line kit, Track bars 2" leveling kit, 271 T-case, DSS, 3rd gen trac bar 623 HP 1175tq with old set-up

[OverHaulin316]

thank you very much

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2005 CTD front bumper replacement, Hella 550, BULLY, and the new edition XD HOSS's BLACK