lift pump how i do

john cymbala · 12-29-2007, 10:51 PM

This is my 1st attempt at a tech article, so please be gentle. 1st off my priorities are as follows 1. dependability 2. cost effectiveness 3. simplicity 4. drivability 5. performance Now that being said, there are several ways to replace your stock pump and correct the filtration deficiencies at the same time. This is how I did mine. First off we need to remove the stock lift pump. once removed it must be replaced with an adapter so as you can connect a fuel line to the fuel filter housing. the fuel filter housing has a machined hole and the pump slides into it being sealed with an oring. The adapter bolts to the housing giving you a 3/8? npt to thread a fitting into. I found mine on e bay but you won't have to look very hard to find one. As I recall it was like 20 bucks

. Second you need to mount a pump to the frame. I reccomend mounting it as low as possible and as close to the tank as you can. I used a holly blue style pump however it is your choice. I would point out that the carter style pump will work however the vein portion of the pump is on top and the holley style is on the bottom. A rotor vein style pump pushes fuel it does NOT SUCK. ( no pun) intended. As the pump pushes fuel to the cp3 down the fuel line it will create a vaccuum that will help to pull fuel to the pump from the tank. under hard acceleration or extremely low on fuel level. in the tank... lower is better.

Third you need to cut the fuel hard line.Tthis is ez with a tubing cutter, don't use a hack saw. Why you ask ....... The key word is Hack. There are two fuel lines and a couple brake lines on the frame rail. You will be cutting the largest one, or if not sure follow the line to the fuel filter housing. After cutting the line bend it slightly down towards the pump inlet being careful not to kink it.(note) IT is best if your tank is low or empty. Using a 12 ''-14 ''piece of fuel line ( I used fuel injection hose) connect the tank fuel line to the pump. Next step fuel filters, Lots of choices... I chose a cat spec absolute 2 micron filter that would have no power restrictions...These are the same filters on my friend's kenworth 550 hp @2150 lbs torque. It should be fine on my dodge.. So I went to myrmos and purchased a pair of Luberfiner cat spec filters and the housings they attach to. 25 bucks each for the fuel filter adapters and 10 bucks apiece for the filters. They make a twin filter housing but at the time they were out of stock. I also purchased 25-30 bucks worth of brass fittings and adapters . Bolt the filter housings together with the fittings you bought. next you will need a small piece of angle iron ( home depot) to build a simple bracket to mount the housings to the frame.

Now connect the outlet of the filters to the back of the stock fuel filter housing using fuel line and clamps. It took me start to finish a couple hours to complete this whole procedure. Last you can hook your stock pump wire to your new pump or as I did ... I wired it through a simple HL relay. This sounds harder than it really is. (note) you may wish to run your stock pump with your new pump. If so you will need to wire your pump through an oil pressure switch. This is cheap and simple. The switch you need is common on transmission valve bodies. It has a 1/8 npt thread. The switch is open until oil pressure 5psi ish closes the circuit Use it as the ground on a HL relay. It will work as follows, turn the key on the cumputer runs the stock pump for 2-3 seconds then off. When the motor starts oil pressure rises closing the ground turning on the 2nd pump via the relay.Note) you will experience hard starts if you wire the 2nd pump to run continuously..

At the end of the day I spent a grand total under 250.00 bucks And my filters cost 10 bucks each when its time. Should the pump fail it can be changed on the side of the road in 10 minutes for $ 65.00 I carry a spare

parts list .................pro comp blue style fuel pump 59.95............................................. .....EBAY
two filter housings.........................................2 5.00 + 25.00 50.00............................................. ...myrceos
miscellanious fittings.......................................... .....................30.00........................ ........................D&S hydrolics
Fuel line 6'................................................ ...........................25.00.................. .............................s&s auto parts
two fuel filters luberfiner lff 2749 and lfp780.............................20.00.......... ......................................mymros
miscellanious....fuel clamps, relay,............................................ 20.00............................................. ..?
Adapter........................................... ......................................25.00....... ........................................E bay
Total about 230.00 bucks A couple hours work

To view pics...... Click on johns truck pics in my sig 053, 080,013 .... 053 oil presure switch,mounted on oil filter housing ... 080 fuel pump and filters and manual gauge mounted on frame ... 013 adaptor and electricfuel presure sender mounted on fuel filter housing [

__________________
2003 6spd , luk ceramic clutch, tst, , 5" exhaust, high tech 62-12 turbo 10 mic/absolute 2miccron catipeller spec filters, blue lift pump,6" lift bfg 37's,65 gal sattle tank, autometer fuel pres,poro,boost gauges, sp rail presure

Last edited by john cymbala : 12-30-2007 at 10:52 AM. Reason: picture clarification

BBRam · 12-30-2007, 10:04 AM

Thanks for the article, well done.

I moved this to the Tech Article Submission forum.
If you could, it would be great to have a couple pic's in this thread. :thumbsup

Thanks again, BRIAN

__________________
03-3500, DRW, QC, 4x4, DTT Trans, Mag-Hytec, R700 BD Twins, BD IC Boots, BD Billet Flexplate, Lockup Switch, SMARTY TNT-R BETA/TS MP-8, Eliminator Fuel System, Floor It Stage 3 CP3 & Rail Cap, BIG Stix's by FTE, ARP Head Stud's, Springs, Fluidampr, ATS ARC-FLOW, AFE, Boost, Drive Pressure, Pyro, Fuel Pressure, Tran's Temp, Rail Pressure Gauge, GDP Ladder Bars, GrandRock 7" Miters. Old #'s (R/T .021, 60' 1.76, 1/4 ET 13.14 @ 100.45 mph)

BBRam · 02-15-2008, 07:41 AM

Moved to the 3rd gen Tech Article forum.

__________________
03-3500, DRW, QC, 4x4, DTT Trans, Mag-Hytec, R700 BD Twins, BD IC Boots, BD Billet Flexplate, Lockup Switch, SMARTY TNT-R BETA/TS MP-8, Eliminator Fuel System, Floor It Stage 3 CP3 & Rail Cap, BIG Stix's by FTE, ARP Head Stud's, Springs, Fluidampr, ATS ARC-FLOW, AFE, Boost, Drive Pressure, Pyro, Fuel Pressure, Tran's Temp, Rail Pressure Gauge, GDP Ladder Bars, GrandRock 7" Miters. Old #'s (R/T .021, 60' 1.76, 1/4 ET 13.14 @ 100.45 mph)

12-29-2007, 10:51 PM	#1 (permalink)
john cymbala Tech Specialist Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: lake havasu AZ ,bend OREGON ,punt cabras BAJA norta Posts: 169 john cymbala's Truck Pics	lift pump how i do This is my 1st attempt at a tech article, so please be gentle. 1st off my priorities are as follows 1. dependability 2. cost effectiveness 3. simplicity 4. drivability 5. performance Now that being said, there are several ways to replace your stock pump and correct the filtration deficiencies at the same time. This is how I did mine. First off we need to remove the stock lift pump. once removed it must be replaced with an adapter so as you can connect a fuel line to the fuel filter housing. the fuel filter housing has a machined hole and the pump slides into it being sealed with an oring. The adapter bolts to the housing giving you a 3/8? npt to thread a fitting into. I found mine on e bay but you won't have to look very hard to find one. As I recall it was like 20 bucks . Second you need to mount a pump to the frame. I reccomend mounting it as low as possible and as close to the tank as you can. I used a holly blue style pump however it is your choice. I would point out that the carter style pump will work however the vein portion of the pump is on top and the holley style is on the bottom. A rotor vein style pump pushes fuel it does NOT SUCK. ( no pun) intended. As the pump pushes fuel to the cp3 down the fuel line it will create a vaccuum that will help to pull fuel to the pump from the tank. under hard acceleration or extremely low on fuel level. in the tank... lower is better. Third you need to cut the fuel hard line.Tthis is ez with a tubing cutter, don't use a hack saw. Why you ask ....... The key word is Hack. There are two fuel lines and a couple brake lines on the frame rail. You will be cutting the largest one, or if not sure follow the line to the fuel filter housing. After cutting the line bend it slightly down towards the pump inlet being careful not to kink it.(note) IT is best if your tank is low or empty. Using a 12 ''-14 ''piece of fuel line ( I used fuel injection hose) connect the tank fuel line to the pump. Next step fuel filters, Lots of choices... I chose a cat spec absolute 2 micron filter that would have no power restrictions...These are the same filters on my friend's kenworth 550 hp @2150 lbs torque. It should be fine on my dodge.. So I went to myrmos and purchased a pair of Luberfiner cat spec filters and the housings they attach to. 25 bucks each for the fuel filter adapters and 10 bucks apiece for the filters. They make a twin filter housing but at the time they were out of stock. I also purchased 25-30 bucks worth of brass fittings and adapters . Bolt the filter housings together with the fittings you bought. next you will need a small piece of angle iron ( home depot) to build a simple bracket to mount the housings to the frame. Now connect the outlet of the filters to the back of the stock fuel filter housing using fuel line and clamps. It took me start to finish a couple hours to complete this whole procedure. Last you can hook your stock pump wire to your new pump or as I did ... I wired it through a simple HL relay. This sounds harder than it really is. (note) you may wish to run your stock pump with your new pump. If so you will need to wire your pump through an oil pressure switch. This is cheap and simple. The switch you need is common on transmission valve bodies. It has a 1/8 npt thread. The switch is open until oil pressure 5psi ish closes the circuit Use it as the ground on a HL relay. It will work as follows, turn the key on the cumputer runs the stock pump for 2-3 seconds then off. When the motor starts oil pressure rises closing the ground turning on the 2nd pump via the relay.Note) you will experience hard starts if you wire the 2nd pump to run continuously.. At the end of the day I spent a grand total under 250.00 bucks And my filters cost 10 bucks each when its time. Should the pump fail it can be changed on the side of the road in 10 minutes for $ 65.00 I carry a spare parts list .................pro comp blue style fuel pump 59.95............................................. .....EBAY two filter housings.........................................2 5.00 + 25.00 50.00............................................. ...myrceos miscellanious fittings.......................................... .....................30.00........................ ........................D&S hydrolics Fuel line 6'................................................ ...........................25.00.................. .............................s&s auto parts two fuel filters luberfiner lff 2749 and lfp780.............................20.00.......... ......................................mymros miscellanious....fuel clamps, relay,............................................ 20.00............................................. ..? Adapter........................................... ......................................25.00....... ........................................E bay Total about 230.00 bucks A couple hours work To view pics...... Click on johns truck pics in my sig 053, 080,013 .... 053 oil presure switch,mounted on oil filter housing ... 080 fuel pump and filters and manual gauge mounted on frame ... 013 adaptor and electricfuel presure sender mounted on fuel filter housing [ __________________ 2003 6spd , luk ceramic clutch, tst, , 5" exhaust, high tech 62-12 turbo 10 mic/absolute 2miccron catipeller spec filters, blue lift pump,6" lift bfg 37's,65 gal sattle tank, autometer fuel pres,poro,boost gauges, sp rail presure Last edited by john cymbala : 12-30-2007 at 10:52 AM. Reason: picture clarification

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12-30-2007, 10:04 AM	#2 (permalink)
BBRam Super Administrator Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Chelsea MI Posts: 17,321 BBRam's Truck Pics	Thanks for the article, well done. I moved this to the Tech Article Submission forum. If you could, it would be great to have a couple pic's in this thread. :thumbsup Thanks again, BRIAN __________________ 03-3500, DRW, QC, 4x4, DTT Trans, Mag-Hytec, R700 BD Twins, BD IC Boots, BD Billet Flexplate, Lockup Switch, SMARTY TNT-R BETA/TS MP-8, Eliminator Fuel System, Floor It Stage 3 CP3 & Rail Cap, BIG Stix's by FTE, ARP Head Stud's, Springs, Fluidampr, ATS ARC-FLOW, AFE, Boost, Drive Pressure, Pyro, Fuel Pressure, Tran's Temp, Rail Pressure Gauge, GDP Ladder Bars, GrandRock 7" Miters. Old #'s (R/T .021, 60' 1.76, 1/4 ET 13.14 @ 100.45 mph)

02-15-2008, 07:41 AM	#3 (permalink)
BBRam Super Administrator Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Chelsea MI Posts: 17,321 BBRam's Truck Pics	Moved to the 3rd gen Tech Article forum. __________________ 03-3500, DRW, QC, 4x4, DTT Trans, Mag-Hytec, R700 BD Twins, BD IC Boots, BD Billet Flexplate, Lockup Switch, SMARTY TNT-R BETA/TS MP-8, Eliminator Fuel System, Floor It Stage 3 CP3 & Rail Cap, BIG Stix's by FTE, ARP Head Stud's, Springs, Fluidampr, ATS ARC-FLOW, AFE, Boost, Drive Pressure, Pyro, Fuel Pressure, Tran's Temp, Rail Pressure Gauge, GDP Ladder Bars, GrandRock 7" Miters. Old #'s (R/T .021, 60' 1.76, 1/4 ET 13.14 @ 100.45 mph)