Getting the most from a "Stacked" 3rd gen. - A

**Gypsyman** · 02-05-2006, 02:54 PM

I've been swamped with e-mails lately. Fellow owners having drivability problems, asking how to get the most from a stacked 3rd generation truck, or wondering why a particular "stack" wasn't performing to their expectations. So, I thought I would try to cover the problems that I've seen owners running into and some common sense approaches to getting the most from a stacked 3rd generation HPCR truck. I've tested ALL but two lines of boxes on my '03 HPCR and I'll be using my current selection of upgrades as they cover some of the more popular choices. I don't endorse my current choice of modification but they'll serve as good examples.

A little background on myself and my vehicle. I've been thru a TON of "stacks" (or combinations) on this vehicle and never intended to take it to the levels that I have. However, after each addition or change I would start at the lowest available settings for the combination I was testing and slowly work my way up the ladder noting changes and reaction in the truck. Using this approach has made it quite easy to find my vehicles maximum capabilities without carnage or even the slightest damage to the truck. My last runs on a load dyno netted me three runs over 600 hp and 1170 to 1230 lb-ft of torque. The only box in my current stack that was on it's highest available setting was the VA C3.1, the others were well below their maximum settings.

First and foremost, the largest mistake I see owners make is attempting to stack boxes and run them at the max available levels. They assume that if a box has "X" number of levels that the top setting must make the most power, right? Read on and we'll see. The same goes for almost all boxes and downloader whether used in a "stack" or as a stand alone box. I can't say this strongly enough. If you want to get the most from your 3rd generation truck forget about what level your running your boxes on, period. People are far too hung up on what Power Level the box is set on instead of how much power they are actually making. Take the TST for example. If it came without level numbers and just had up and down arrows you would get on a dyno, turn it up until it max horsepower was achieved (or the power began to fall off), sit back, look at the graphs and say "WOW"! It wouldn't matter what unknown level you were on. The aftermarket has been kind enough to give us boxes that are capable of more than our fuel systems can support. This is rare in the aftermarket industry and the advertising is misleading at best. Remember this. Maximum settings don't necessarily produce maximum horsepower.

Below is an excerpt from one of the e-mail replies that I sent out to frustrated fellow owner. He had just installed twins and was having problems while trying to run at higher levels on items used in his particular stack. Each box used in his stack worked flawlessly alone or with one other box but caused problems when everything was "turned up". Following these simple guidelines helped him cure his stacking problems and achieve maximum horsepower. Hopefully they will help in your quest also...

Lift Pump: Everyone has their favorite in this arena and opinion run wild across a vast range of pumps. What your looking for in a lift pump is a unit that can maintain at least 10 psi at max load and rpm. This has been hashed over too many time for me to recommend a pump, however, a fuel cooled version would be my choice in the electric lift pump arena.

Fuel Feed System: You really don't need to do anything fancy here. Add drilled or oversize banjo's to get the fuel to the CP-3 high pressure injection pump from the filter. No real need to change the factory supply lines, just let them flow to their potential. I made my 600+ hp runs on factory stock lines with just oversized banjos and thru the stock filter with a fuel pressure of 16 psi.

TST (example only): Turn the Torque Enhancement setting down, and I mean WAY down. I run the old aggressive singles program and never turn the TE above 2. All the TE does is start draining the rail down low in the RPM range and when your running on the ragged edge the CP-3 never gets a chance to catch up. You can watch this on a rail pressure gauge if you have one.

Pressure Box: If your comfortable running one, add a pressure box that is strong down low to pick up the bottom end torque. This has two effects on the system and the drivability. One, it picks up the bottom end torque given up by lowering the TE settings on a duration box and helps spool the turbo (twins in my case). Two, it actually gives the CP-3 a head start on the run by building pressure earlier AND by not needing the additional duration down low for power. It's a win/win game for the CP-3. My choice for additional pressure is the van Aaken C3.1 over the EZ or other boxes and I have a good reason for this. When I sent my injectors in to be upgrade by Formula 1 they had ZERO signs of erosion due to pressure. At the time I had been running the C3.1 on the High setting for over 30k. Other injectors that had been run with various higher (stronger) pressure boxes were showing signs of erosion and damage when examined. The C3.1 stays within factory safe rail pressure levels and within the levels that are readable by the factory rail sensor.

Power Pup (or Triple Dog): Downloader's are a touchy subject. If your comfortable running one you have to make sure that your know what parameters each setting is affecting. On the Bully-Dog products there is no additional rail pressure added on the Tow setting. This allows you to stack a pressure box with them safely in the Tow setting only. On the higher setting they do add additional pressure and I wouldn't recommend adding a pressure box at all. High pressures and the cumulative affect of stacking two boxes that affect the same parameters is a recipe for disaster long term.

Injectors: Smaller is better. With the 3rd generation trucks rail pressure is everything. A smaller injector will help the fuel rail maintain pressure and atomize the fuel charge better. If you want to run larger injectors plan on having to turn the boxes down even further for the same achieved horsepower.

We are pushing our fuel systems to the ragged edge until a better CP-3 is available and you have to gain a little from everywhere. Nobody knows what settings your on when you blow past them at the track so forget about what levels your running on and listen to what the truck is telling you. My top runs were made with the TST at 5x2, PP on Tow, and the little C3.1 (that everybody dogs on for being weak). I had just enough rail pressure left to pull on level 6x2 but I was out of dyno time and so happy with my numbers that I didn't even think to make another pull.

So, start at the bottom on everything and work you way up. Start on say 3x2 (if using the TST), Tow (if using a downloader), and add whatever amount of pressure your comfortable running. Then step the HP setting up on the TST one level at a time and leave the TE at 2 or below (and I mean leave it there). You can creep the TE setting up later if you still have rail pressure available. Keep going up on the TST until you get a misfire, bursting, or high EGT's and back it down one level. That will put you at the max power level sustainable by your fuel system. As an example we stepped my truck up to 7x2 on the rollers and EGT's went thru the roof while I lost 139 hp at the same 60 lbs of boost. The smoke still cleaned up on the top end thanks to the twins but the rail was done at that point.

The truck will tell you when it can't give you anymore either by bursting (missing), as the Chevy guys call it, or by high EGT's. Yes, the Chevy guys ran into this 2 or 3 years ago, long before we ever thought of running a CP-3 dry.

As always, your mileage may vary and batteries not included.

Richard

__________________
Daily Driver: '08 Ram 3500, QC, DRW, 4x4, 6.7L, 68RFE, Loaded Laramie...

Play Thing: '04.5 3500 ST, Reg Cab, 325, 48RE, DRW, 4x4, Stripper...

Richard Martin
509-993-4923
www.glacierdieselpower.com

02-05-2006, 04:48 PM

Excellent info Richard..................you have done yer homework, thanks for sharing with us

pluguglyinhere · 02-06-2006, 01:13 PM

Great info, so with your experience a guy like myself wanting better mileage towing (9000lbs) or not with out loosing the fun power I have would be what?

I guess I assumed stacking was for the guys building drag trucks, not for me. I want some better milleage and do not want to loose any of my fum power or even get some extra. Possible, suggestions?

__________________
2006 CTD 2500 4x4 Quad Cab, issipro tranny, boost and egt guages in the a-pillar. Amsoil dry filter with homemade 4 inch intake. 4 inch out, aero only and the stock 3.73 behind the automatic.

**Gypsyman** · 02-06-2006, 04:09 PM

Is your '06 stock at this point? What are your overall goals with the truck?

__________________
Daily Driver: '08 Ram 3500, QC, DRW, 4x4, 6.7L, 68RFE, Loaded Laramie...

Play Thing: '04.5 3500 ST, Reg Cab, 325, 48RE, DRW, 4x4, Stripper...

Richard Martin
509-993-4923
www.glacierdieselpower.com

pluguglyinhere · 02-06-2006, 07:06 PM

at this point yes it is stock. My over all goal with the truck would be to tow my travel trailer. That is why I bought it along with getting me back and forth to work. I would love to flip a switch and get 18-20 mpg and 16-17 towing, and then flip it again and fly to work like a jet. All this without blowing my tranny or motor up and not having to worry about going in for warranty work or service.

Now I know that may be a pipe dream so realisticly. I love the power and speed of my truck and it tows the *&%$ out of my trailer. I would like to get some better mpg and if some safe extra ponies came from that then great. Towing is important, and like I said above I do not need a drag truck, hope that make sense.

__________________
2006 CTD 2500 4x4 Quad Cab, issipro tranny, boost and egt guages in the a-pillar. Amsoil dry filter with homemade 4 inch intake. 4 inch out, aero only and the stock 3.73 behind the automatic.

**Gypsyman** · 02-06-2006, 11:03 PM

Since your running an '06 your best bet would be a downloader or the TST on lower settings. If you had an 03'/'04 truck I would say F-1 injectors but unfortunately they're not out for the newer trucks yet. A downloader will alter all parameters in a positive way and the TST will add additional timing if you stay with a stock turbo that builds boost at a lower rpm range.

Remember, these trucks not only fuel but also add timing based on boost. Additional timing is where you'll find mileage gains. Here's where you get into a catch 22 situation though. If you want to add fuel and make big power you'll also need a larger turbo to cool the additional fuel charge. But, big singles tend to run lower boost levels at cruise so you lose timing and hence, fuel mileage. You need a single that is quick spooling, capable of about 40 psi, AND able to hold 12 to 14 lbs of boost at cruise or under a light load. If you have strong self restraint the TST would be a good box for you. For all around drivability (keeping the stock turbo for now) the Triple Dog downloader on Tow or Performance would make for a beautiful driving truck. I'm not sure if they're out for the '06 trucks yet but if not they should be out shortly.

The nice part is that both boxes can be stacked together at a later date for max gains.

__________________
Daily Driver: '08 Ram 3500, QC, DRW, 4x4, 6.7L, 68RFE, Loaded Laramie...

Play Thing: '04.5 3500 ST, Reg Cab, 325, 48RE, DRW, 4x4, Stripper...

Richard Martin
509-993-4923
www.glacierdieselpower.com

pluguglyinhere · 02-07-2006, 04:39 AM

thanks for the advice the Bullydog ios out and what I was leaning towards since our local shop sells only that. So with your advice that makes me feel good about the descision. We are leaving the last of March with trailer for a bout a 2000 mile trip so i hoped to have a good intake system on, and maybe a good muffler, and the bully dog. Thanks agian

__________________
2006 CTD 2500 4x4 Quad Cab, issipro tranny, boost and egt guages in the a-pillar. Amsoil dry filter with homemade 4 inch intake. 4 inch out, aero only and the stock 3.73 behind the automatic.

**Gypsyman** · 02-07-2006, 08:57 AM

A simple mod for the intake is to open up the bottom of the box with a 3" or 4" hole and put a small piece of 1/2" square mesh over the new opening. This will extend the filter life by about 2x and drop egt's by around 50*.

__________________
Daily Driver: '08 Ram 3500, QC, DRW, 4x4, 6.7L, 68RFE, Loaded Laramie...

Play Thing: '04.5 3500 ST, Reg Cab, 325, 48RE, DRW, 4x4, Stripper...

Richard Martin
509-993-4923
www.glacierdieselpower.com

dodgeboy59td@aol.com · 04-12-2006, 08:59 AM

Whats you all suggestion to get to 450 hp with an 06 cummins with a B-1 Charger? Wes

__________________
Wesley Wade
2006 Ram 2500 CTD
2005 Ram 2500 CTD

***AK RAM*** · 04-14-2006, 09:09 AM

A TST/EZ stack will do that for you, run great and be reliable, and will make a good bit more power than that if you want to turn the settings up. I assume your looking at a smaller B1 like the B1-2-04 or similar? That turbo would be a good match-up for a 400hp rig and will support a lot more for short trips down the race track.

__________________
03, 4X4, QUAD, LWB, Standard Output, 47RE, 3.73, ATS TC/VB, DTT Trans/Billet, Flex Plate, TorqLoc, RAD, Twins, Snow, Hot Cp3, Injectors, Cam, 315s, 8,200 lbs wet.
12.32 @ 109 Videos: Vid 1 & Vid 2

Add yourself to the Cummins Forum Map. :thumbsup

dodgeboy59td@aol.com · 04-14-2006, 09:18 AM

What is the inducer size of the B1-04? Not the towing version. What about the HTB2?

I was thinking about getting a crazy larry, but if the new juice is out by the time i get my truck i may go with that and one of those smartys. I like my juice in my 05 alot! Wes

__________________
Wesley Wade
2006 Ram 2500 CTD
2005 Ram 2500 CTD

***AK RAM*** · 04-14-2006, 10:05 AM

The Juice and a Smarty will be a good combo I bet. I'm looking forward to stacking with a Smarty myself when they come out.

The B1-2-04 has a 62mm wheel. The B1-2, HTB2, and SPS62 all use the same 62mm wheel.

The HTT turbos and II turbos are basically B1 clones, but without the B1 price. II turbos are getting that way as well. As they have gotten popular I am seeing more and more people trying to sell the SPS62's for $1,600 now. If I had to do a single again, I believe I would go with one of the HTT models. Best value for your money I think. Just my opinion.

__________________
03, 4X4, QUAD, LWB, Standard Output, 47RE, 3.73, ATS TC/VB, DTT Trans/Billet, Flex Plate, TorqLoc, RAD, Twins, Snow, Hot Cp3, Injectors, Cam, 315s, 8,200 lbs wet.
12.32 @ 109 Videos: Vid 1 & Vid 2

Add yourself to the Cummins Forum Map. :thumbsup

Last edited by AK RAM : 01-04-2007 at 09:25 PM.

02-05-2006, 02:54 PM	#1 (permalink)
Gypsyman Glacier Diesel Power Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Spokane, WA Posts: 139 Gypsyman's Truck Pics	Getting the most from a "Stacked" 3rd gen. - A I've been swamped with e-mails lately. Fellow owners having drivability problems, asking how to get the most from a stacked 3rd generation truck, or wondering why a particular "stack" wasn't performing to their expectations. So, I thought I would try to cover the problems that I've seen owners running into and some common sense approaches to getting the most from a stacked 3rd generation HPCR truck. I've tested ALL but two lines of boxes on my '03 HPCR and I'll be using my current selection of upgrades as they cover some of the more popular choices. I don't endorse my current choice of modification but they'll serve as good examples. A little background on myself and my vehicle. I've been thru a TON of "stacks" (or combinations) on this vehicle and never intended to take it to the levels that I have. However, after each addition or change I would start at the lowest available settings for the combination I was testing and slowly work my way up the ladder noting changes and reaction in the truck. Using this approach has made it quite easy to find my vehicles maximum capabilities without carnage or even the slightest damage to the truck. My last runs on a load dyno netted me three runs over 600 hp and 1170 to 1230 lb-ft of torque. The only box in my current stack that was on it's highest available setting was the VA C3.1, the others were well below their maximum settings. First and foremost, the largest mistake I see owners make is attempting to stack boxes and run them at the max available levels. They assume that if a box has "X" number of levels that the top setting must make the most power, right? Read on and we'll see. The same goes for almost all boxes and downloader whether used in a "stack" or as a stand alone box. I can't say this strongly enough. If you want to get the most from your 3rd generation truck forget about what level your running your boxes on, period. People are far too hung up on what Power Level the box is set on instead of how much power they are actually making. Take the TST for example. If it came without level numbers and just had up and down arrows you would get on a dyno, turn it up until it max horsepower was achieved (or the power began to fall off), sit back, look at the graphs and say "WOW"! It wouldn't matter what unknown level you were on. The aftermarket has been kind enough to give us boxes that are capable of more than our fuel systems can support. This is rare in the aftermarket industry and the advertising is misleading at best. Remember this. Maximum settings don't necessarily produce maximum horsepower. Below is an excerpt from one of the e-mail replies that I sent out to frustrated fellow owner. He had just installed twins and was having problems while trying to run at higher levels on items used in his particular stack. Each box used in his stack worked flawlessly alone or with one other box but caused problems when everything was "turned up". Following these simple guidelines helped him cure his stacking problems and achieve maximum horsepower. Hopefully they will help in your quest also... Lift Pump: Everyone has their favorite in this arena and opinion run wild across a vast range of pumps. What your looking for in a lift pump is a unit that can maintain at least 10 psi at max load and rpm. This has been hashed over too many time for me to recommend a pump, however, a fuel cooled version would be my choice in the electric lift pump arena. Fuel Feed System: You really don't need to do anything fancy here. Add drilled or oversize banjo's to get the fuel to the CP-3 high pressure injection pump from the filter. No real need to change the factory supply lines, just let them flow to their potential. I made my 600+ hp runs on factory stock lines with just oversized banjos and thru the stock filter with a fuel pressure of 16 psi. TST (example only): Turn the Torque Enhancement setting down, and I mean WAY down. I run the old aggressive singles program and never turn the TE above 2. All the TE does is start draining the rail down low in the RPM range and when your running on the ragged edge the CP-3 never gets a chance to catch up. You can watch this on a rail pressure gauge if you have one. Pressure Box: If your comfortable running one, add a pressure box that is strong down low to pick up the bottom end torque. This has two effects on the system and the drivability. One, it picks up the bottom end torque given up by lowering the TE settings on a duration box and helps spool the turbo (twins in my case). Two, it actually gives the CP-3 a head start on the run by building pressure earlier AND by not needing the additional duration down low for power. It's a win/win game for the CP-3. My choice for additional pressure is the van Aaken C3.1 over the EZ or other boxes and I have a good reason for this. When I sent my injectors in to be upgrade by Formula 1 they had ZERO signs of erosion due to pressure. At the time I had been running the C3.1 on the High setting for over 30k. Other injectors that had been run with various higher (stronger) pressure boxes were showing signs of erosion and damage when examined. The C3.1 stays within factory safe rail pressure levels and within the levels that are readable by the factory rail sensor. Power Pup (or Triple Dog): Downloader's are a touchy subject. If your comfortable running one you have to make sure that your know what parameters each setting is affecting. On the Bully-Dog products there is no additional rail pressure added on the Tow setting. This allows you to stack a pressure box with them safely in the Tow setting only. On the higher setting they do add additional pressure and I wouldn't recommend adding a pressure box at all. High pressures and the cumulative affect of stacking two boxes that affect the same parameters is a recipe for disaster long term. Injectors: Smaller is better. With the 3rd generation trucks rail pressure is everything. A smaller injector will help the fuel rail maintain pressure and atomize the fuel charge better. If you want to run larger injectors plan on having to turn the boxes down even further for the same achieved horsepower. We are pushing our fuel systems to the ragged edge until a better CP-3 is available and you have to gain a little from everywhere. Nobody knows what settings your on when you blow past them at the track so forget about what levels your running on and listen to what the truck is telling you. My top runs were made with the TST at 5x2, PP on Tow, and the little C3.1 (that everybody dogs on for being weak). I had just enough rail pressure left to pull on level 6x2 but I was out of dyno time and so happy with my numbers that I didn't even think to make another pull. So, start at the bottom on everything and work you way up. Start on say 3x2 (if using the TST), Tow (if using a downloader), and add whatever amount of pressure your comfortable running. Then step the HP setting up on the TST one level at a time and leave the TE at 2 or below (and I mean leave it there). You can creep the TE setting up later if you still have rail pressure available. Keep going up on the TST until you get a misfire, bursting, or high EGT's and back it down one level. That will put you at the max power level sustainable by your fuel system. As an example we stepped my truck up to 7x2 on the rollers and EGT's went thru the roof while I lost 139 hp at the same 60 lbs of boost. The smoke still cleaned up on the top end thanks to the twins but the rail was done at that point. The truck will tell you when it can't give you anymore either by bursting (missing), as the Chevy guys call it, or by high EGT's. Yes, the Chevy guys ran into this 2 or 3 years ago, long before we ever thought of running a CP-3 dry. As always, your mileage may vary and batteries not included. Richard __________________ Daily Driver: '08 Ram 3500, QC, DRW, 4x4, 6.7L, 68RFE, Loaded Laramie... Play Thing: '04.5 3500 ST, Reg Cab, 325, 48RE, DRW, 4x4, Stripper... Richard Martin 509-993-4923 www.glacierdieselpower.com

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02-05-2006, 04:48 PM	#2 (permalink)
Guest Posts: n/a	Excellent info Richard..................you have done yer homework, thanks for sharing with us

02-06-2006, 01:13 PM	#3 (permalink)
pluguglyinhere Cummins Enthusiast Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Clive, Iowa Posts: 250 pluguglyinhere's Truck Pics	Great info, so with your experience a guy like myself wanting better mileage towing (9000lbs) or not with out loosing the fun power I have would be what? I guess I assumed stacking was for the guys building drag trucks, not for me. I want some better milleage and do not want to loose any of my fum power or even get some extra. Possible, suggestions? __________________ 2006 CTD 2500 4x4 Quad Cab, issipro tranny, boost and egt guages in the a-pillar. Amsoil dry filter with homemade 4 inch intake. 4 inch out, aero only and the stock 3.73 behind the automatic.

02-06-2006, 04:09 PM	#4 (permalink)
Gypsyman Glacier Diesel Power Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Spokane, WA Posts: 139 Gypsyman's Truck Pics	Is your '06 stock at this point? What are your overall goals with the truck? __________________ Daily Driver: '08 Ram 3500, QC, DRW, 4x4, 6.7L, 68RFE, Loaded Laramie... Play Thing: '04.5 3500 ST, Reg Cab, 325, 48RE, DRW, 4x4, Stripper... Richard Martin 509-993-4923 www.glacierdieselpower.com

02-06-2006, 07:06 PM	#5 (permalink)
pluguglyinhere Cummins Enthusiast Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Clive, Iowa Posts: 250 pluguglyinhere's Truck Pics	at this point yes it is stock. My over all goal with the truck would be to tow my travel trailer. That is why I bought it along with getting me back and forth to work. I would love to flip a switch and get 18-20 mpg and 16-17 towing, and then flip it again and fly to work like a jet. All this without blowing my tranny or motor up and not having to worry about going in for warranty work or service. Now I know that may be a pipe dream so realisticly. I love the power and speed of my truck and it tows the *&%$ out of my trailer. I would like to get some better mpg and if some safe extra ponies came from that then great. Towing is important, and like I said above I do not need a drag truck, hope that make sense. __________________ 2006 CTD 2500 4x4 Quad Cab, issipro tranny, boost and egt guages in the a-pillar. Amsoil dry filter with homemade 4 inch intake. 4 inch out, aero only and the stock 3.73 behind the automatic.

02-06-2006, 11:03 PM	#6 (permalink)
Gypsyman Glacier Diesel Power Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Spokane, WA Posts: 139 Gypsyman's Truck Pics	Since your running an '06 your best bet would be a downloader or the TST on lower settings. If you had an 03'/'04 truck I would say F-1 injectors but unfortunately they're not out for the newer trucks yet. A downloader will alter all parameters in a positive way and the TST will add additional timing if you stay with a stock turbo that builds boost at a lower rpm range. Remember, these trucks not only fuel but also add timing based on boost. Additional timing is where you'll find mileage gains. Here's where you get into a catch 22 situation though. If you want to add fuel and make big power you'll also need a larger turbo to cool the additional fuel charge. But, big singles tend to run lower boost levels at cruise so you lose timing and hence, fuel mileage. You need a single that is quick spooling, capable of about 40 psi, AND able to hold 12 to 14 lbs of boost at cruise or under a light load. If you have strong self restraint the TST would be a good box for you. For all around drivability (keeping the stock turbo for now) the Triple Dog downloader on Tow or Performance would make for a beautiful driving truck. I'm not sure if they're out for the '06 trucks yet but if not they should be out shortly. The nice part is that both boxes can be stacked together at a later date for max gains. __________________ Daily Driver: '08 Ram 3500, QC, DRW, 4x4, 6.7L, 68RFE, Loaded Laramie... Play Thing: '04.5 3500 ST, Reg Cab, 325, 48RE, DRW, 4x4, Stripper... Richard Martin 509-993-4923 www.glacierdieselpower.com

02-07-2006, 04:39 AM	#7 (permalink)
pluguglyinhere Cummins Enthusiast Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Clive, Iowa Posts: 250 pluguglyinhere's Truck Pics	thanks for the advice the Bullydog ios out and what I was leaning towards since our local shop sells only that. So with your advice that makes me feel good about the descision. We are leaving the last of March with trailer for a bout a 2000 mile trip so i hoped to have a good intake system on, and maybe a good muffler, and the bully dog. Thanks agian __________________ 2006 CTD 2500 4x4 Quad Cab, issipro tranny, boost and egt guages in the a-pillar. Amsoil dry filter with homemade 4 inch intake. 4 inch out, aero only and the stock 3.73 behind the automatic.

02-07-2006, 08:57 AM	#8 (permalink)
Gypsyman Glacier Diesel Power Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Spokane, WA Posts: 139 Gypsyman's Truck Pics	A simple mod for the intake is to open up the bottom of the box with a 3" or 4" hole and put a small piece of 1/2" square mesh over the new opening. This will extend the filter life by about 2x and drop egt's by around 50*. __________________ Daily Driver: '08 Ram 3500, QC, DRW, 4x4, 6.7L, 68RFE, Loaded Laramie... Play Thing: '04.5 3500 ST, Reg Cab, 325, 48RE, DRW, 4x4, Stripper... Richard Martin 509-993-4923 www.glacierdieselpower.com

04-12-2006, 08:59 AM	#9 (permalink)
dodgeboy59td@aol.com Newbie Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Kentucky Posts: 25 dodgeboy59td@aol.com's Truck Pics	Whats you all suggestion to get to 450 hp with an 06 cummins with a B-1 Charger? Wes __________________ Wesley Wade 2006 Ram 2500 CTD 2005 Ram 2500 CTD

04-14-2006, 09:09 AM	#10 (permalink)
*AK RAM* Tech Specialist Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Alaska Posts: 2,610 AK RAM's Truck Pics	A TST/EZ stack will do that for you, run great and be reliable, and will make a good bit more power than that if you want to turn the settings up. I assume your looking at a smaller B1 like the B1-2-04 or similar? That turbo would be a good match-up for a 400hp rig and will support a lot more for short trips down the race track. __________________ 03, 4X4, QUAD, LWB, Standard Output, 47RE, 3.73, ATS TC/VB, DTT Trans/Billet, Flex Plate, TorqLoc, RAD, Twins, Snow, Hot Cp3, Injectors, Cam, 315s, 8,200 lbs wet. 12.32 @ 109 Videos: Vid 1 & Vid 2 Add yourself to the Cummins Forum Map. :thumbsup

04-14-2006, 09:18 AM	#11 (permalink)
dodgeboy59td@aol.com Newbie Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Kentucky Posts: 25 dodgeboy59td@aol.com's Truck Pics	What is the inducer size of the B1-04? Not the towing version. What about the HTB2? I was thinking about getting a crazy larry, but if the new juice is out by the time i get my truck i may go with that and one of those smartys. I like my juice in my 05 alot! Wes __________________ Wesley Wade 2006 Ram 2500 CTD 2005 Ram 2500 CTD

04-14-2006, 10:05 AM	#12 (permalink)
*AK RAM* Tech Specialist Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Alaska Posts: 2,610 AK RAM's Truck Pics	The Juice and a Smarty will be a good combo I bet. I'm looking forward to stacking with a Smarty myself when they come out. The B1-2-04 has a 62mm wheel. The B1-2, HTB2, and SPS62 all use the same 62mm wheel. The HTT turbos and II turbos are basically B1 clones, but without the B1 price. II turbos are getting that way as well. As they have gotten popular I am seeing more and more people trying to sell the SPS62's for $1,600 now. If I had to do a single again, I believe I would go with one of the HTT models. Best value for your money I think. Just my opinion. __________________ 03, 4X4, QUAD, LWB, Standard Output, 47RE, 3.73, ATS TC/VB, DTT Trans/Billet, Flex Plate, TorqLoc, RAD, Twins, Snow, Hot Cp3, Injectors, Cam, 315s, 8,200 lbs wet. 12.32 @ 109 Videos: Vid 1 & Vid 2 Add yourself to the Cummins Forum Map. :thumbsup Last edited by AK RAM : 01-04-2007 at 09:25 PM.