3rd Gen Guage Install Tips/Instructions/Pics

PULN PWR · 01-05-2007, 09:32 PM

I need some guidance on guage installs. Where does everyone tie into for power. Switched, and 12 volts for lighting?

I really hope someone has pics or a great description.

Cheers and thanks!

Chad

Last edited by AK RAM : 01-06-2007 at 07:35 PM.

NavyDood · 01-06-2007, 12:50 PM

I did this write up over on dieselram initially. Then I put it up on TDR. TDR published it in Issue 52 of their Quarterly Newletter/Magazine.

I had a heck of a time deciding what mounting method I was going to go with. I use the cubby under the climate controls way too much. Overhead would have been ok; I just didn’t want to have to glance up all the time. There wasn’t anyway I was going to lose the grab handle with a 3 gauge pillar mount. The single or the dbl steering mount was way out of the question. It covers up too much of the dash for me. I finally opted for the dash mount. The dash mount comes in black and that wasn't going to fly. I went to the local Dodge dealer and got the Mopar interior only paint. The A-pillar's actual color is Light Taupe and the darker dash top is Taupe. The Dodge part# of the Taupe is 5003521-AA. After lightly sandblasting the Dash Pod, I sprayed 8 coats of paint (which go on like water and dry almost instantly) then 3 coats of Acrylic Clear. To get the top dash panel off, slide a 1" wide putty knife under the lip and pry up all the way across. The metal clips will release. After all the clips are popped, lift up slightly and pull back so the forward clips release. Lay out where the dash pod will attach and then drill for mounting. AutoMeter makes the dash pod. One thing disturbing... The aluminum-mounting bracket for the pod has 4 threaded inserts on it for mounting purposes. Two screws mount the bracket to the dash. The other two screws attach the pod to the bracket. The inserts are 8-32 thread size. They sent regular sheet metal screws for mounting it. I was like, "wtf?” I ran to the local Ace Hardware and got two stainless 8-32 button head screws for the outside, and regular steel for the underside. I used connectors on the +pos and -neg wires for the gauge lights so it would be easier to work on if the need arises. First pic lightly sand blasted. Second pic everything wired and ready to be mounted. Third and fourth pic mounted. Fifth pic is a visual to see how close of a match the Isspro EV gauges are at night with lights on.

Here is what I did to ease the wire routing through the dash top. I used a 3/4" spade drill to drill the hole.

__________________
- 2004 2500 QC, SWB, 4x4, 48re w/Mag-Hytec DD, Smarty Jr, HOG 4" Exh, Modded Air Box w/Amsoil Drop In, Isspro Pyro/Boost/Tranny Temp, Quadzilla RPG w/fuel pressure option - B&W Hide-A-Ball w/5th wheel Companion - 06 Pilgrim Legends 30RE2SLF-5

NavyDood · 01-06-2007, 12:50 PM

Next came the +pos wiring for the gauges. You want them on only when the dash lights are on, and dim when the dash lights dim. The headlight light switch pops right off with ease. You need to splice into the orange with black tracer. Problem is, there are 3 of those wires. Here you can see the wire you need to splice into.

The control boxes (Pyro and Tranny Temp) require +12v. Find a +pos power source that comes on when the key is turned on unless you want the gauge control boxes always powered. The cig lighter is perfect for this since the key needs to be on for it to be powered (The auxiliary +12v power connector always has power even with the key off). When using the cig lighter for the power source, splice into the pink wire. Remove the climate control/radio panel by removing the screw behind the plastic hook just to the right of the climate controls, then pull gently. The whole front panel pops right off. First pic is the splice and the second pic where I mounted the two control boxes. I used an inline fuse for the control boxes with a 2a fuse. The metal brace right below the fuse link is perfect for a common ground.

I opted to go with the boost bolt instead of drilling and tapping the air inlet. It’s a straight and forward install. I used blue locktite on the boost bolt to hold the bolt in and give it a good seal.

Here is a pic of the Thermocouple installed.

__________________
- 2004 2500 QC, SWB, 4x4, 48re w/Mag-Hytec DD, Smarty Jr, HOG 4" Exh, Modded Air Box w/Amsoil Drop In, Isspro Pyro/Boost/Tranny Temp, Quadzilla RPG w/fuel pressure option - B&W Hide-A-Ball w/5th wheel Companion - 06 Pilgrim Legends 30RE2SLF-5

NavyDood · 01-06-2007, 12:51 PM

Tranny temp probe. I put this line together for $42 total. Mass diesel sells the exact same thing for $80 plus shipping or so. Here’s the breakdown for the line. This is the only true way on the 48RE to get accurate real time temp numbers. The tranny pan isn’t accurate since it shows the temp of the fluid after it has gone through both coolers. None of the test ports will give you a true reading either.

Line part# 52028920-AH. $12 from Dodge.
Line cut and flared with b-nuts for -8AN. $8 from local hose shop.
Earl's Performance pressure gauge adapter -8AN both ends with 1/8" npt port. Summit part# EAR-100196ERL. Aeroquip and Russell also make them. $14 from summit racing which included handling/shipping charges that were divided between the 3 things I ordered.
Tax, fuel, my time - $8.
90° and 1/8" npt double ended connector. $4 from Home Depot. (Needed even if Mass Diesel line was used.)

What irks the crap out of me is why Isspro uses such a huge probe tip. There are other manufacturers that have smaller tips. I opted to run the brass 90° to keep the tip out of the tranny fluid path even though that would be ideal. Reason I did not put the probe tip IN the path is because you obstruct at least 75% of the fluid flow. I threw in the pic of the tranny pan since I was changing the tranny fluid at the same time of installing the tranny temp probe/line. That is what it looked like with 36,000 miles on it. I don't think the previous owner changed it.

__________________
- 2004 2500 QC, SWB, 4x4, 48re w/Mag-Hytec DD, Smarty Jr, HOG 4" Exh, Modded Air Box w/Amsoil Drop In, Isspro Pyro/Boost/Tranny Temp, Quadzilla RPG w/fuel pressure option - B&W Hide-A-Ball w/5th wheel Companion - 06 Pilgrim Legends 30RE2SLF-5

NavyDood · 01-06-2007, 12:51 PM

Since I have an automatic, running the wires and boost tube was a piece of cake. There is a plastic cover where the clutch slave cylinder rod would go through if you have a standard tranny. I drilled a hole through the plate. Remember to protect all the wires and boost tube from chaffing on anything. It took me about 8 hours total to do all this.

__________________
- 2004 2500 QC, SWB, 4x4, 48re w/Mag-Hytec DD, Smarty Jr, HOG 4" Exh, Modded Air Box w/Amsoil Drop In, Isspro Pyro/Boost/Tranny Temp, Quadzilla RPG w/fuel pressure option - B&W Hide-A-Ball w/5th wheel Companion - 06 Pilgrim Legends 30RE2SLF-5

leapton03 · 01-10-2007, 05:30 PM

That is a great write up Navy Dood!!!! Thanks alot I will using that very soon a hope.

__________________
03 Dodge 2500 cummins / Ex-cab / 2 wheel drive / Auto trans / Turbo Silencer Ring gone / Staight Pipe / Ring Tone Mod / BHAF w-Outerwears/ SWANKER INTAKE / not all stock any more

1994 Z71 Blazer / remote pmd#9 resister / 3" down pipe 4" pipe no CAT/ K&N cold air intake / 97'cooling system with fan & clutch / "S" 6.5TD / Autometer gauges EGT, Boost, & trans temp / 10k Pot Boost fooler / Home Made TM / high idle switch

PULN PWR · 01-11-2007, 09:40 PM

I have a "spare" in the fuse block number 44. Just says spare, and when measured it reads no voltage until you turn on the key, then it becomes live. What is the best way to tap into this available power source? What would the wire be good for in the truck? 10amps at least? The lowest rating is 10 amps in that block. I was going to use the rear defrost, which my truck doesnt have, but there is a fuse in that place that is live all the time.... kinda weird! Cut a spade in half and plug into that half of the 44?

What do you all think I will require for power?

Pyro,
Electric F/P which is saying to fuse at 1 amp,
Trans Temp
Boost
Oil temp
(All autometer)

We arent counting the lighting of the guages at this point. I can figure that one out easy with a multi meter to see the draw per bulb.

PULN PWR · 01-11-2007, 09:42 PM

Navy Dood;

Did you draw power for all the lights in the guages off of just that one wire? Enough to supply 12 volts to all of the guages?

Chad

TrueValue Truck · 01-16-2007, 11:05 AM

Hey Puln ,
When I did the gauges on my 04.5 , I just tapped the wire on the head light switch. Just pop the shroud holding the switch in place , then use a tester to find the right wire. I tapped the one for the dash lights.
Just another option to consider. It was enought to run three Isspros on the A-Pillar...:thumbsup

__________________

Caldwellfire.com

06 3500 SRW MC ,Smarty REVO,X2 Race stack, Commander,CFM, Monster Air COI,AFE Torque tube,FASS 150 HPFP LP,Muffler delete,Tipple disc Converter and VB ,ProComp 2" leveling kit,Timbren's,Reese Class V Tow Beast

Ohio Coal Rollers

Cumminsforum.com

PULN PWR · 01-16-2007, 11:15 AM

Ok, well I am doing guages this weekend if all goes right. Gonna have 5 to hook up. 3 pillar, 2 overhead.

I had a problem with my Body control module, or Dash assembly. I had guages in the truck before, so now I am paranoid and want to make the guage install as non intrusive as possible.

I have done a bucket load of research to find wires.

Here is how I plan to hook into truck wiring.

First relay will be fired by the ignition wire underneath steering column. Pulls
.18amps. Battery power from the battery through relay will power all of the switched requirements of the guages.

Second relay will be fired by C217 park light relay output. I wont have any dimmer option, but doing it this way should make the guages completely separate from the truck entirely aside from the .18amps to fire each relay. There will be only .18Amps on Park Lamps and .18Amps on Ignition switch.

In theory, any problem encountered with truck wiring will NOT be anything to do with my add on.

Obsessive compulsive disorder at its finest! LMAO!!!!

Chad

Thanks for all of the guidence from everyone! This site is friendly and very helpful!

TrueValue Truck · 01-16-2007, 12:30 PM

Hey Chad.....after reading your sig. , I think I understand your concern for doing it the way your planning... I'm so glad I have a mod friendly dealer....I have tapped wires everywhere on this truck !

__________________

Caldwellfire.com

06 3500 SRW MC ,Smarty REVO,X2 Race stack, Commander,CFM, Monster Air COI,AFE Torque tube,FASS 150 HPFP LP,Muffler delete,Tipple disc Converter and VB ,ProComp 2" leveling kit,Timbren's,Reese Class V Tow Beast

Ohio Coal Rollers

Cumminsforum.com

NavyDood · 01-18-2007, 09:05 PM

Puln Power....

Yes, all 3 gauge lights are powered off that wire on the dimmer switch. I installed the gauges over a year ago and haven't had a single issue.

__________________
- 2004 2500 QC, SWB, 4x4, 48re w/Mag-Hytec DD, Smarty Jr, HOG 4" Exh, Modded Air Box w/Amsoil Drop In, Isspro Pyro/Boost/Tranny Temp, Quadzilla RPG w/fuel pressure option - B&W Hide-A-Ball w/5th wheel Companion - 06 Pilgrim Legends 30RE2SLF-5

Last edited by NavyDood : 01-18-2007 at 09:08 PM.

01-05-2007, 09:32 PM	#1 (permalink)
PULN PWR OCD over the Cummins Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Canada.... 'ISH' Posts: 841 PULN PWR's Truck Pics	3rd Gen Guage Install Tips/Instructions/Pics I need some guidance on guage installs. Where does everyone tie into for power. Switched, and 12 volts for lighting? I really hope someone has pics or a great description. Cheers and thanks! Chad Last edited by AK RAM : 01-06-2007 at 07:35 PM.

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01-06-2007, 12:50 PM	#2 (permalink)
NavyDood Cummins Nut Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Solomons Posts: 409 NavyDood's Truck Pics	I did this write up over on dieselram initially. Then I put it up on TDR. TDR published it in Issue 52 of their Quarterly Newletter/Magazine. I had a heck of a time deciding what mounting method I was going to go with. I use the cubby under the climate controls way too much. Overhead would have been ok; I just didn’t want to have to glance up all the time. There wasn’t anyway I was going to lose the grab handle with a 3 gauge pillar mount. The single or the dbl steering mount was way out of the question. It covers up too much of the dash for me. I finally opted for the dash mount. The dash mount comes in black and that wasn't going to fly. I went to the local Dodge dealer and got the Mopar interior only paint. The A-pillar's actual color is Light Taupe and the darker dash top is Taupe. The Dodge part# of the Taupe is 5003521-AA. After lightly sandblasting the Dash Pod, I sprayed 8 coats of paint (which go on like water and dry almost instantly) then 3 coats of Acrylic Clear. To get the top dash panel off, slide a 1" wide putty knife under the lip and pry up all the way across. The metal clips will release. After all the clips are popped, lift up slightly and pull back so the forward clips release. Lay out where the dash pod will attach and then drill for mounting. AutoMeter makes the dash pod. One thing disturbing... The aluminum-mounting bracket for the pod has 4 threaded inserts on it for mounting purposes. Two screws mount the bracket to the dash. The other two screws attach the pod to the bracket. The inserts are 8-32 thread size. They sent regular sheet metal screws for mounting it. I was like, "wtf?” I ran to the local Ace Hardware and got two stainless 8-32 button head screws for the outside, and regular steel for the underside. I used connectors on the +pos and -neg wires for the gauge lights so it would be easier to work on if the need arises. First pic lightly sand blasted. Second pic everything wired and ready to be mounted. Third and fourth pic mounted. Fifth pic is a visual to see how close of a match the Isspro EV gauges are at night with lights on. Here is what I did to ease the wire routing through the dash top. I used a 3/4" spade drill to drill the hole. __________________ - 2004 2500 QC, SWB, 4x4, 48re w/Mag-Hytec DD, Smarty Jr, HOG 4" Exh, Modded Air Box w/Amsoil Drop In, Isspro Pyro/Boost/Tranny Temp, Quadzilla RPG w/fuel pressure option - B&W Hide-A-Ball w/5th wheel Companion - 06 Pilgrim Legends 30RE2SLF-5

01-06-2007, 12:50 PM	#3 (permalink)
NavyDood Cummins Nut Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Solomons Posts: 409 NavyDood's Truck Pics	Next came the +pos wiring for the gauges. You want them on only when the dash lights are on, and dim when the dash lights dim. The headlight light switch pops right off with ease. You need to splice into the orange with black tracer. Problem is, there are 3 of those wires. Here you can see the wire you need to splice into. The control boxes (Pyro and Tranny Temp) require +12v. Find a +pos power source that comes on when the key is turned on unless you want the gauge control boxes always powered. The cig lighter is perfect for this since the key needs to be on for it to be powered (The auxiliary +12v power connector always has power even with the key off). When using the cig lighter for the power source, splice into the pink wire. Remove the climate control/radio panel by removing the screw behind the plastic hook just to the right of the climate controls, then pull gently. The whole front panel pops right off. First pic is the splice and the second pic where I mounted the two control boxes. I used an inline fuse for the control boxes with a 2a fuse. The metal brace right below the fuse link is perfect for a common ground. I opted to go with the boost bolt instead of drilling and tapping the air inlet. It’s a straight and forward install. I used blue locktite on the boost bolt to hold the bolt in and give it a good seal. Here is a pic of the Thermocouple installed. __________________ - 2004 2500 QC, SWB, 4x4, 48re w/Mag-Hytec DD, Smarty Jr, HOG 4" Exh, Modded Air Box w/Amsoil Drop In, Isspro Pyro/Boost/Tranny Temp, Quadzilla RPG w/fuel pressure option - B&W Hide-A-Ball w/5th wheel Companion - 06 Pilgrim Legends 30RE2SLF-5

01-06-2007, 12:51 PM	#4 (permalink)
NavyDood Cummins Nut Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Solomons Posts: 409 NavyDood's Truck Pics	Tranny temp probe. I put this line together for $42 total. Mass diesel sells the exact same thing for $80 plus shipping or so. Here’s the breakdown for the line. This is the only true way on the 48RE to get accurate real time temp numbers. The tranny pan isn’t accurate since it shows the temp of the fluid after it has gone through both coolers. None of the test ports will give you a true reading either. Line part# 52028920-AH. $12 from Dodge. Line cut and flared with b-nuts for -8AN. $8 from local hose shop. Earl's Performance pressure gauge adapter -8AN both ends with 1/8" npt port. Summit part# EAR-100196ERL. Aeroquip and Russell also make them. $14 from summit racing which included handling/shipping charges that were divided between the 3 things I ordered. Tax, fuel, my time - $8. 90° and 1/8" npt double ended connector. $4 from Home Depot. (Needed even if Mass Diesel line was used.) What irks the crap out of me is why Isspro uses such a huge probe tip. There are other manufacturers that have smaller tips. I opted to run the brass 90° to keep the tip out of the tranny fluid path even though that would be ideal. Reason I did not put the probe tip IN the path is because you obstruct at least 75% of the fluid flow. I threw in the pic of the tranny pan since I was changing the tranny fluid at the same time of installing the tranny temp probe/line. That is what it looked like with 36,000 miles on it. I don't think the previous owner changed it. __________________ - 2004 2500 QC, SWB, 4x4, 48re w/Mag-Hytec DD, Smarty Jr, HOG 4" Exh, Modded Air Box w/Amsoil Drop In, Isspro Pyro/Boost/Tranny Temp, Quadzilla RPG w/fuel pressure option - B&W Hide-A-Ball w/5th wheel Companion - 06 Pilgrim Legends 30RE2SLF-5

01-06-2007, 12:51 PM	#5 (permalink)
NavyDood Cummins Nut Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Solomons Posts: 409 NavyDood's Truck Pics	Since I have an automatic, running the wires and boost tube was a piece of cake. There is a plastic cover where the clutch slave cylinder rod would go through if you have a standard tranny. I drilled a hole through the plate. Remember to protect all the wires and boost tube from chaffing on anything. It took me about 8 hours total to do all this. __________________ - 2004 2500 QC, SWB, 4x4, 48re w/Mag-Hytec DD, Smarty Jr, HOG 4" Exh, Modded Air Box w/Amsoil Drop In, Isspro Pyro/Boost/Tranny Temp, Quadzilla RPG w/fuel pressure option - B&W Hide-A-Ball w/5th wheel Companion - 06 Pilgrim Legends 30RE2SLF-5

01-10-2007, 05:30 PM	#6 (permalink)
leapton03 Cummins Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Pasadena, TX Posts: 125 leapton03's Truck Pics	That is a great write up Navy Dood!!!! Thanks alot I will using that very soon a hope. __________________ 03 Dodge 2500 cummins / Ex-cab / 2 wheel drive / Auto trans / Turbo Silencer Ring gone / Staight Pipe / Ring Tone Mod / BHAF w-Outerwears/ SWANKER INTAKE / not all stock any more 1994 Z71 Blazer / remote pmd#9 resister / 3" down pipe 4" pipe no CAT/ K&N cold air intake / 97'cooling system with fan & clutch / "S" 6.5TD / Autometer gauges EGT, Boost, & trans temp / 10k Pot Boost fooler / Home Made TM / high idle switch

01-11-2007, 09:40 PM	#7 (permalink)
PULN PWR OCD over the Cummins Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Canada.... 'ISH' Posts: 841 PULN PWR's Truck Pics	I have a "spare" in the fuse block number 44. Just says spare, and when measured it reads no voltage until you turn on the key, then it becomes live. What is the best way to tap into this available power source? What would the wire be good for in the truck? 10amps at least? The lowest rating is 10 amps in that block. I was going to use the rear defrost, which my truck doesnt have, but there is a fuse in that place that is live all the time.... kinda weird! Cut a spade in half and plug into that half of the 44? What do you all think I will require for power? Pyro, Electric F/P which is saying to fuse at 1 amp, Trans Temp Boost Oil temp (All autometer) We arent counting the lighting of the guages at this point. I can figure that one out easy with a multi meter to see the draw per bulb.

01-11-2007, 09:42 PM	#8 (permalink)
PULN PWR OCD over the Cummins Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Canada.... 'ISH' Posts: 841 PULN PWR's Truck Pics	Navy Dood; Did you draw power for all the lights in the guages off of just that one wire? Enough to supply 12 volts to all of the guages? Chad

01-16-2007, 11:05 AM	#9 (permalink)
TrueValue Truck Tech Specialist/Super Moderator Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Caldwell,Ohio Posts: 3,556 TrueValue Truck's Truck Pics	Hey Puln , When I did the gauges on my 04.5 , I just tapped the wire on the head light switch. Just pop the shroud holding the switch in place , then use a tester to find the right wire. I tapped the one for the dash lights. Just another option to consider. It was enought to run three Isspros on the A-Pillar...:thumbsup __________________ Caldwellfire.com 06 3500 SRW MC ,Smarty REVO,X2 Race stack, Commander,CFM, Monster Air COI,AFE Torque tube,FASS 150 HPFP LP,Muffler delete,Tipple disc Converter and VB ,ProComp 2" leveling kit,Timbren's,Reese Class V Tow Beast Ohio Coal Rollers *Cumminsforum.com*

01-16-2007, 11:15 AM	#10 (permalink)
PULN PWR OCD over the Cummins Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Canada.... 'ISH' Posts: 841 PULN PWR's Truck Pics	Ok, well I am doing guages this weekend if all goes right. Gonna have 5 to hook up. 3 pillar, 2 overhead. I had a problem with my Body control module, or Dash assembly. I had guages in the truck before, so now I am paranoid and want to make the guage install as non intrusive as possible. I have done a bucket load of research to find wires. Here is how I plan to hook into truck wiring. First relay will be fired by the ignition wire underneath steering column. Pulls .18amps. Battery power from the battery through relay will power all of the switched requirements of the guages. Second relay will be fired by C217 park light relay output. I wont have any dimmer option, but doing it this way should make the guages completely separate from the truck entirely aside from the .18amps to fire each relay. There will be only .18Amps on Park Lamps and .18Amps on Ignition switch. In theory, any problem encountered with truck wiring will NOT be anything to do with my add on. Obsessive compulsive disorder at its finest! LMAO!!!! Chad Thanks for all of the guidence from everyone! This site is friendly and very helpful!

01-16-2007, 12:30 PM	#11 (permalink)
TrueValue Truck Tech Specialist/Super Moderator Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Caldwell,Ohio Posts: 3,556 TrueValue Truck's Truck Pics	Hey Chad.....after reading your sig. , I think I understand your concern for doing it the way your planning... I'm so glad I have a mod friendly dealer....I have tapped wires everywhere on this truck ! __________________ Caldwellfire.com 06 3500 SRW MC ,Smarty REVO,X2 Race stack, Commander,CFM, Monster Air COI,AFE Torque tube,FASS 150 HPFP LP,Muffler delete,Tipple disc Converter and VB ,ProComp 2" leveling kit,Timbren's,Reese Class V Tow Beast Ohio Coal Rollers *Cumminsforum.com*

01-18-2007, 09:05 PM	#12 (permalink)
NavyDood Cummins Nut Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Solomons Posts: 409 NavyDood's Truck Pics	Puln Power.... Yes, all 3 gauge lights are powered off that wire on the dimmer switch. I installed the gauges over a year ago and haven't had a single issue. __________________ - 2004 2500 QC, SWB, 4x4, 48re w/Mag-Hytec DD, Smarty Jr, HOG 4" Exh, Modded Air Box w/Amsoil Drop In, Isspro Pyro/Boost/Tranny Temp, Quadzilla RPG w/fuel pressure option - B&W Hide-A-Ball w/5th wheel Companion - 06 Pilgrim Legends 30RE2SLF-5 Last edited by NavyDood : 01-18-2007 at 09:08 PM.