4.56 gears

[mental torque]

im running 36'' tires and soon will be running 37''s. rite now i have 3.73s would i see a noticable diferance with some 4.10s ive been thinking of switching. what kind of cost am i looking at gears labor etc.

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06 2500 ctd,g56,afe stage 2 no ring,mprp 5'' exhaust,bd pmt,8'' lift 37'' mud grapps on 20's.

[boggin79ford]

I have 4:56 gears with 35s and i hate it. im eventually gonna get a 6" lift and put on 37s. the previous owner gave me the stock 3:73s also. i was looking at swapping them for some 4:10s if anyones interested.

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2003 dodge 2500 6" lift with 37s 4:56 gears, banks 6 gun tuner, BHAF, boost,pyro,trans gauges, 4" stainless exhaust, mag-hytech deep trans pan.

[dodge3500]

Here is a post that may help:

If you are going to upgrade to 37" tires you need to increase(numerically) your axle ratio. When you increase your tire size without increasing your axle ratio, your engine is working outside of its optimum powerband. This causes your engine to lug, your exhaust gas tempratures to rise, your fuel economy to suffer, and your transmission or clutch to fail sooner.

The way to correct this is to increase(numerically) your axle ratio. For instance, if you increase your tire size 20%(31" to 37") you should also increase your axle ratio 20%(3.73 to 4.56). Here is a formula that will help:

(New Tire Diameter / Original Tire Diameter) X Original Axle Ratio = Required Axle Ratio

Example:
(37" / 31") X 3.73 Original Axle Ratio = 4.45 Required Axle Ratio

Since there is not a 4.45 ratio, you would select the next closest ratio -- 4.56.

I hope this helps.

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2004 Dodge 2500 4WD, 5.9L high output CTD, 6 speed manual, 4" Rancho lift, 37" BFG KM2, H2 wheels, Magnaflow exhaust, Smarty JR

[bigblue24v]

the equation is differnt though because the diesel run lower RPMs all day long

realistacally peaking, 4.10s will do everything you could ask of them

im rolling 35s on 3.73 and you could never tell

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2001 DODGE 2500 4x4 QCSB - (D) all of the above

[D Gandy]

Same here, 3.73's w/ 35's and couldn't really see needing anything lower unless I went with bigger rubber. Those tire equations don't take into effect that our engines thrive on a little resistance. They are made for heavy loads, and 35's or 37's arn't heavy loads at all. @ 70 mph my rpm's are @ about 1850, @ 80 I am at 2K rpm's. Just about perfect if u ask me. Now if u do a lot of heavy towing, I could see maybe jumping up 1 step lower in gears. But that would have to be a lot of towing to justify the cost of the swap and the crappy milage while empty.

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2006 2500 4x4 auto 4-door,straight pipe, airaid intake, dioblo predator,boost fooler,Autometer boost,tranny,EGT gauges with A-pillar pod,Banks High Ram elbow,Winspeed heater grid delete,35x12.5x17 Toyo MT's, 9.20 ET 1/8th mile, Kore Chase 2.0