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Old 10-01-2012, 01:04 AM   #25 (permalink)
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MontanaDave, slowdown!!

1 logical step at a time. Don't jump around, dont' buy anything until you know what the problem is.


1. Please fill out your signature as asked earlier so we know your truck details.

2. Did you go for a long drive as mentioned to see how that affected your oil level?

3. It's hard to tell in that picture but that black ring is a metal snap or spiral ring that is designed to hold the turbo air guide in place. The gap is totally normal. Going from that picture your turbo looks fine.

Did you check the turbo shaft end play?

This is from the BD Diesel website:

http://www.dieselperformance.com/pro...Inspection.pdf


The specs are from the BD Special turbo but the procedure is the same.
Just going by experience...
Zero to very little end play.
Very little up & down play. The compressor wheel should not touch the housing, nor should there be any rub marks on the housing...


Oil is flowing thru the turbo shaft center section at all times. The turbo shaft rides on bearings & there are end seals to seal the shaft.
You can see a braided stainless steel line from the top of the oil filter head to the top of the center section of the turbo.
From under the turbo you will see an oil drain tube going back to the engine.


4. Did you remove the exhaust from the turbo? What were your findings there?



1 logical step at a time.


What part of Montana are you in? My wife and I love Montana. Friendly folks, nice country, great stock car tracks, excellent ski hills.
I'm just 3 hours north of the Montana border..
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Old 10-01-2012, 01:21 AM   #26 (permalink)
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I tried to go and fill out all my specs. I will have to get back on the computer tomorrow. Im going to pull exhaust tomorrow to investigate where it comes out.

My truck is a 2005 Dodge ram 2500 5.9l, 4x4, quad cab, stock everything so far. It has a small lift with 35" tires.

I moved from Missoula out to Washington and ever since I've been called Montana. I absolutely love Montana!

I didn't drive the truck today. I opted to take our 4 runner instead. I just have really been scratching my head. So you don't think it looks damaged?
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Old 10-01-2012, 01:26 AM   #27 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Montanadave View Post
See if this uploads the pic
That the silencer ring retaining clip..... It's supposed to have that gap there. If the leak is in the turbo it's probably on the exhaust side based on that picture.
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Old 10-01-2012, 01:30 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Montanadave View Post
Somebody wrote I may be able to find one for $300 bucks used. Who and where would I go through to find one and would it be worth while to buy a used turbo?
:
The for sale section on this website has them all the time, check it out
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Old 10-01-2012, 02:58 AM   #29 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Montanadave View Post
So if my turbo has been damaged what would cause the truck to loose oil. I don't fully understand where the oil would go or why because of a damaged turbo. I haven't ever had to work on a diesel engine before so I am some what of a newbie. So be easy. Lol

If anyone has any input on the photo I posted a couple posted up and where the oil has gone I am all ears.

Thanks
If a turbo bearing is bad, oil can go into the intake or exhaust, or both. Since you're not burning it, likely going directly into the exhaust side and down the exhaust system.
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Old 10-01-2012, 03:11 AM   #30 (permalink)
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turbo looks fine to me. side to side play is ok and normal is its just a little bit, in and out play is bad.

turbo looks finethough
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Old 10-01-2012, 07:41 AM   #31 (permalink)
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I'am not sure if this fits your truck, but a turbo is for sale here:

(http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98...hx35-sale.html )
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Old 10-01-2012, 09:41 PM   #32 (permalink)
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I have the truck at proper oil level. I ran it today hard. Let it idle running down hill and I gave it a bunch of fuel and all I got was very little black smoke. I stepped on it and really got on it. All I seen was black smoke. No sign of any white or blue smoke. Turbo worked just like it should. I have talked to multiple shops and they all say to drive it and keep an eye on it. To monitor how much oil it consumes between fill ups and every 500 miles or so. I took a drop of oil and driped it onto a piece of white paper, I'm going to leave it over night. They said that by tomorrow if it looks like the sun coming from around the drip that I would have fuel in my oil. Two different things I've been told. The O rings around the injectors could have gone out (not common but could happen I was told) also the fuel pump??????? So I guess for now I am going to keep my eye on it and see what happens. I don't feel that it is something catastrophic like I orinally had thought. Thoughts?

Also on a side note I called the dealership from where the guy bought the truck at Lithia in Kennewick WA. They had no record of any engine oil issues. Just going back in for safety recalls.
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Old 10-02-2012, 11:49 AM   #33 (permalink)
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Well I am not sure about the 05 models but I can tell you for a fact in the early 07 if the truck is not perfectly level it will throw your measurement off. I basically have to park at the same place everytime and let my truck cool about 30 min to get a accurate reading. So my advice is find a nice level spot before you add more oil over filling is every bit as bad if not worse then under filling.
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Old 10-02-2012, 04:21 PM   #34 (permalink)
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its just as important to wipe stick, put back in then check oil level...

i've seen many many vehicles under filled due to driver pullin dipstick out look and see oil up to crosshatchs and think its full, when in fact it was low about 4-8 quarts.

gotta wipe 'er first, they re-stick 'er to check properly...
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Old 10-02-2012, 05:36 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Maybe it does not like the oil your using. After reading the below about the oil you used I sure as heck would not put it my engine, I will not use any oil that is made with Group II base stock in any engine I own.

"Guardol ECT is formulated with a blend of synthetic and high-quality Group II base stocks and a proprietary low-SAPS additive package"
Oil Groups:

Group I base oils can have a mix of different hydrocarbon chains, with relatively little uniformity; these oils are the least refined. They are usually not used for autos.

Group II are the most common base oils in “dino juice,” with good performance in most areas except cold temperature viscosity.

Group III are called synthetic, and have high molecular uniformity and stability. Group III oil bases are used in most synthetic oils.

Group IV are chemically engineered stocks, arguably with the highest performance and longevity.
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