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I am needing to replace the rear axle seal on my 07 2500 but have never done it on this axle I have done a 9.25 in a 1/2 ton dodge. How hard is it? Someone told me I need to pre-load the bearings. How do I do that. Any special tools? Any help would be awesome.
Just had to replace one of mine earlier this year. Pretty easy to do.
Heres the procedure to replace the rear axle bearing/seal from the service manual, sorry pics aren't included. I think you can get by without the special tool for the bearing nut, a pair of longer needle nose pliers may work since the torque is only 22 ft lbs the backed off 30 deg. No c-clip in the diff on these axles, so you don't need to pull the cover.
1. Remove axle shaft flange bolts and remove axle shaft.
2. Remove retainer ring (1) from axle shaft tube.
3. Remove hub bearing nut (1) locking key (2) from axle tube (3).
4. Remove hub bearing nut with Socket 8954.
5. Remove hub and bearings from the axle.
6. Pry out hub bearing seal from the back of the hub.
NOTE: The inner part of the seal (3) may stay on the axle tube (2). This part must also be removed with pry bar (1).
7. Remove rear bearing.
8. Remove hub bearing cups with a hammer and drift.
1. Install outer hub bearing cup with Installer 8961 and Handle C-4171.
2. Install inner hub bearing cup with Installer 8962 and Handle C-4171.
3. Pack bearings with the appropriate grease.
4. Install rear bearing and install new grease seal with Installer 8963 and Handle C-4171.
5. Slide hub on the axle tube and install front bearing into the hub.
6. Install hub bearing nut with Socket 8954 (1) and torque wrench (2) to 30 N·m (22 ft. lbs.) while rotating the hub.
7. Back off nut about 30° and align next hub nut key slot with axle tube key slot and install locking key. End play should be 0.025-0.25 mm (0.001-0.010 in.).
8. Install retainer ring (1) with ring end in the key slot (2).
9. Install new axle shaft gasket and install axle shaft.
'03 3500 SRW QC Laramie LB, Smarty S-06, DDP 90's, Arson III, DTT Trans, Goerend TC, 4" exh, AFE Int, Walbro Fuel Pump, Gauges (fuel, boost, pyro, trans temp, rail), 4.10's, Thuren 3" springs & TB, BOD control arms, Eagles with Duratracs 325/65-18.
It doesn't look like yours was leaking gear lube into the parking brake. I'm pretty sure mine is. I still have plenty of tension on the pedal, but the brakes don't hold. I've seen it on a friend's '06 as well, and I have had to replace the front and rear pinion seals already. Great axles AAM makes.... NOT!
Thanks for posting!
2006 Dodge, 2500, CTD, 4x4, 6 Speed, SLT, Mineral Grey, MBRP muffler + 6" dual stacks, CFM+ intake horn, AFE intake, Soon to be EFI Live, SB Con OFe.
Mine was just barley leaking not bad enough to get on the brake yet. The part that goes over the spindle was just a bit wet. I was already in that far might as well replace the seal. All parts were washed in a steam jenny. Bearings were pack with a packer and everthing put back together.
nice job except u shouldn't pack the bearings with grease... thats a mechanical oil bath seal which requires gear lube(oil) to lubricate the seals moving parts... so when u pack the bearings full o grease then ZERO lube gets to seal thereby guarrantying premature seal failure.
you can get a 'grease' seal, grease bearings and then repack them every brake job butt thats a pain imo...
What kind of tool are some of you using to remove the axle shaft nut? It's a tight space so you can't get pliers in there & I don't even know if you can get a socket in there (which would be a huge- socket).
2003 Dodge Ram 3500 ATX 4x2 DRW ECLB - work truck (Mods to date: 4" exhaust system, BHAF, gauges (pyro, boost, tranny temp & fuel pres), AFC deep tranny pan)
2005 Nissan Titan LE CC "Texas Edition" - weekend G ride!
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