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Old 05-14-2012, 09:25 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Low-Buck Auxiliary Transmission Cooler

Evenin' Gents,

I'm temporarily detained in Houston, Tx, with quite a bit of free time on my hands, and I got to thinking about the cooling of my 47RE. I'd like to add an aux transmission cooler without paying out the nose for BD cooler plus install kit (no offense to BD, just not looking to drop 1/2 the price of my transmission on a cooler). After looking around here, ebay, and summit, I have a few ideas.
But first, knowledge to be taken into consideration: I'm MAYBE making more than 100 hp over factory and drive conservatively, my transmission is a 47RE, rebuild 10-15k miles ago due to a torque converter cooler melt down. Had it rebuild to factory spec at shop that I trust using his house brand of parts. Whilst he was rebuilding it, I removed the broken torque converter cooler and bypassed it with custom made hydraulic hoses on the ATF+4 side and silicon based hoses on the coolant side, leaving the Air to fluid cooler near the radiator as my cooling unit. I do not believe (trans temp gauge has yet to be bought or installed but I found one I'm buying) I haven't had an issue of overheating the trans yet, but with the Houston traffic I'm a bit worried. Since the TC cooler was designed to cool the trans at low speeds (not much air passing over the air cooler), I'm toying with these ideas.


First: Buy a cooler that either universal or from another vehicle, mount it in location X (input appreciated) and wire in an appropriately sized 12 volt fan (on toggle or temp?) to cool the fluid even at stop and go speeds. ($100 ballpark)
Flex-a-lite 3826 Extra Heavy Duty Transmission Cooler | eBay
Coupled with:
12" 12 VOLT BLACK SLIM REVERSIBLE ELECTRIC COOLING RADIATOR FAN+BRACKETS | eBay

Second: Buy a universal cooler, with fan already installed, mount in location X and wire in for either toggle usage or temperature setting. ($150 ballpark)
Derale 12732 Remote Transmission Cooler | eBay

Third: Buy one or two coolers, not add a fan to either and mount in location X. Increasing cooling capacity overall but not more than 1st or 2nd plan ($50 ballpark)
Tranny cooler,91.5-93 dodge cummins | eBay


I will be adding a spin on trans filter regardless of the addition of these cooling units, but possibly inline with one of their return lines.
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Old 05-14-2012, 09:59 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Aux tranny coolers can you keep it cool?

Here is some good info.
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Old 05-14-2012, 10:01 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I added a Derale plate style on my 91 gasser, and it worked very well. It was about $90 from summit racing and I just mounted it in front of the radiator so I didn't need another fan. Whichever way you end up going just dont get a tube and fin style as they aren't as efficient and do not hold up well to vibration/abuse. The plate style is much more durable.
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Old 05-14-2012, 10:28 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Here's a good thread.

I have used a similar cooler on my F150, after trying a series os series pass that just didn't help. After installing a plate-and-frame type, that trans dropped ~50F and never got over 190F, even when following an overloaded toyota climbing a 2 mile 6% grade at 30mph.

I'm looking at replacing the factory cooler with a plate and frame type. Calculations lead me to eleive I should be able to drop 20-30F by using the same width and height, just thicker (1.5" vs. 3/4").

Tony
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Old 05-14-2012, 10:47 PM   #5 (permalink)
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What temps are you seeing that concern you? Where are you reading your temps from? I guess it's safe to say you have the SO engine in your 2003 since you say you have a 47RE. What fluid was used after the rebuild?
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Old 05-15-2012, 12:15 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by black03cummins View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyB View Post
Here's a good thread.

I have used a similar cooler on my F150, after trying a series os series pass that just didn't help. After installing a plate-and-frame type, that trans dropped ~50F and never got over 190F, even when following an overloaded toyota climbing a 2 mile 6% grade at 30mph.

I'm looking at replacing the factory cooler with a plate and frame type. Calculations lead me to eleive I should be able to drop 20-30F by using the same width and height, just thicker (1.5" vs. 3/4").

Tony

Thanks! Can't believe i missed these when searching.

Chief, Haven't got a trans temp gauge yet. I'm going off the fluid smelling and looking good, even when checked mid-tow.
Fluid is Valvoline.

Considering this gauge in a low-pro location DAKOTA DIGITAL ODYSSEY SERIES I RECTANGLE BEZEL TRANSMISSION TEMP GAUGE ODY-08-1 | eBay
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Old 05-15-2012, 08:37 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Chief, Haven't got a trans temp gauge yet. I'm going off the fluid smelling and looking good, even when checked mid-tow. Fluid is Valvoline.
Just some FYI... ATF+4 has been known to lose it's color in a very short time frame and smell funny even in ideal non towing conditions. A gauge would be very beneficial to see what you temps are. 220F is no big deal in stop and go and around town. Stay religious to the 30k filter and fluid changes and the tranny will thank you for a loooong time.
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Old 05-15-2012, 05:25 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Cheif, good to know. Found a gauge on amazon with install hardware for $30 so I'll be monitoring starting next week
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Old 05-15-2012, 06:00 PM   #9 (permalink)
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get the factory block ATF cooler back in it immediately.
most efficient effective cooler that can be run on one of these.

make absolutely sure the fan clutch and controller/wiring are working correctly with fan speed of 1850 rpm at engine rpm of 2k and the ECU has commanded the fan controller to max speed based upon temp and A/C on inputs.
complete test procedure in service manual.
lots of Ram/Cummins running around with defective fan clutches, controller or damaged wiring.
the fan clutch pulls air over the coolant radiator along with that small ATF air cooler up front.

The Engine Control Module (ECM) controls the level of engagement of the electronically controlled viscous fan
clutch by monitoring coolant temperature, intake manifold temperature, air conditioning pressure and transmission oil temperature. Based on cooling requirements, the ECM sends a signal to the viscous fan clutch to increase or
decrease the fan speed.

NEVER use a tube/fin cooler in the ATF line on these. too restrictive, the 47>48RE need all the ATF flow for proper cooling of parts and correct pressures they can get. marginal transmission in stock form for Cummins 5.9. Dodge has to use large amounts of torque management to kill the engine back and a high rpm stall torque converter just to get their cobbled together mess to half way last the warranty period on the tranny.

large plate/fin with fan on thermostat switch as extra addon to the block coolant/ATF cooler.

take out the one way valve in the ATF line if still in, restrictive.

make sure that it has a low stall rpm torque converter and install a lockup switch with brake control. tranny runs far cooler in TC lockup.
not churning ATF with the turbine/stator.
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Old 05-15-2012, 08:07 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steelhead01 View Post
1. make absolutely sure the fan clutch and controller/wiring are working correctly with fan speed of 1850 rpm at engine rpm of 2k and the ECU has commanded the fan controller to max speed based upon temp and A/C on inputs.
complete test procedure in service manual.
lots of Ram/Cummins running around with defective fan clutches, controller or damaged wiring.
the fan clutch pulls air over the coolant radiator along with that small ATF air cooler up front.

2. take out the one way valve in the ATF line if still in, restrictive.

3. make sure that it has a low stall rpm torque converter and install a lockup switch with brake control. tranny runs far cooler in TC lockup.
not churning ATF with the turbine/stator.
1. How do i go about doing that?

2. hear of doing this, where is it?

3. this refers to 3rd Gen Mystery Switch - DIY - Works great! ?
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