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post #13 of 25 (permalink) Old 12-29-2012, 07:07 PM
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Originally Posted by FORANE View Post
Seems like if I had a bad injector I would have corresponding symptoms like smoking, bucking, rough running, hard starting... I have none of that. Truck runs great.
Nope. Bad fuel mileage is sometimes the only indication the injectors are sub standard.

Granted, driving style an host of other variables make a differnece but your reported mileage is substantally below a "good" representative example.

Since you already replaced the inejctors I would question the quality of the source. If you have not been paying attention, issues exactly like this with reman injectors are very common.

At 10 mpg hand calculated and the over head reading 14 mpg, I would be all over the injectors. The OH calculates mpg based on expected fuel consumption for the speed, engine load, temp, APPS position, etc. There is only one place the fuel can be going on a stock truck.


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post #14 of 25 (permalink) Old 12-29-2012, 07:36 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by cerberusiam View Post
Nope. Bad fuel mileage is sometimes the only indication the injectors are sub standard.

Granted, driving style an host of other variables make a differnece but your reported mileage is substantally below a "good" representative example.

Since you already replaced the inejctors I would question the quality of the source. If you have not been paying attention, issues exactly like this with reman injectors are very common.

At 10 mpg hand calculated and the over head reading 14 mpg, I would be all over the injectors. The OH calculates mpg based on expected fuel consumption for the speed, engine load, temp, APPS position, etc. There is only one place the fuel can be going on a stock truck.
Maybe so. Alot of work to pull injectors, send them out, put them back in when the truck runs great though.

I read the post below and doubt the valves have been adjusted recently - if ever - in its 170 some thousand miles.
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Originally Posted by petrock View Post
My mechanic told me that you are supposed to have your valves adjusted every 60,000 miles or so. My truck has 125000 miles on it and was probably the first time they were adjusted got a lot of power back and about 3 mpg better, a real result for a cheap fix.

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post #15 of 25 (permalink) Old 12-29-2012, 07:42 PM
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Where do you buy or find a boost leak detector??

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post #16 of 25 (permalink) Old 12-29-2012, 07:48 PM Thread Starter
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Where do you buy or find a boost leak detector??
I believe I bought mine on ebay. Mine looks like this one:
4" Universal Turbo Boost Leak Pressure Tester Garrett FP HTA Turbos | eBay

I believe our turbos take a 4 inch pipe. You can make your own relatively easily:
Homemade boost leak tester - Dodge Diesel - Diesel Truck Resource Forums

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post #17 of 25 (permalink) Old 12-29-2012, 07:49 PM
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I read the post below and doubt the valves have been adjusted recently - if ever - in its 170 some thousand miles.
Stories of 20 mpg 4x4 Dually trucks abound also, doesn't mean there is any truth in the statements. Just a perception.

Experience says MAYBE 1 mpg if there are out far enough but 3 is off the radar, definitely not a constant.

The spec is every 100k. I have done a dozen or better between 60k and 200k and neve found 1 more than a couple thousandths off. Never got 3 mpg gain either.

By all means, they need to be checked if there is any question. If you are not driving it hard all day long towing you set them to .008 for intake, .018 for exhaust for a little quieter engine and throttle reaction.

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post #18 of 25 (permalink) Old 12-29-2012, 07:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FORANE View Post
I believe I bought mine on ebay. Mine looks like this one:
4" Universal Turbo Boost Leak Pressure Tester Garrett FP HTA Turbos | eBay

I believe our turbos take a 4 inch pipe. You can make your own relatively easily:
Homemade boost leak tester - Dodge Diesel - Diesel Truck Resource Forums
Can you please explain how this tester works? I have no problem buying one...

I believe I am having a boost leak somewhere

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post #19 of 25 (permalink) Old 12-29-2012, 08:00 PM Thread Starter
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Can you please explain how this tester works? I have no problem buying one...

I believe I am having a boost leak somewhere
Disconnect the pipe from the turbo inlet. Slide the flexible blue rubber 4 inch pipe (blue in the ebay listing pic I provided the link to earlier) over the turbo inlet. Tighten the clamp down securing the boost leak detector to the turbo. use an air compressor line with tire valve stem fill adapter to pressurize the boost detector while watching the air pressure gauge on the boost detector increase to 30 or 35 psi. This pressurizes the turbo to intake horn. If you have leaks they will be readily audible and you will see the pressure gauge on the leak detector drop pressure.

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post #20 of 25 (permalink) Old 12-29-2012, 08:02 PM
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Originally Posted by FORANE View Post
Disconnect the pipe from the turbo inlet. Slide the flexible blue rubber 4 inch pipe (blue in the ebay listing pic I provided the link to earlier) over the turbo inlet. Tighten the clamp down securing the boost leak detector to the turbo. use an air compressor line with tire valve stem fill adapter to pressurize the boost detector while watching the air pressure gauge on the boost detector increase to 30 or 35 psi. This pressurizes the turbo to intake horn. If you have leaks they will be readily audible and you will see the pressure gauge on the leak detector drop pressure.
That's all? That seems super easy! I'm ordering one now thank you for the info.

Should it hold steady? Or just slowly decrease?

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post #21 of 25 (permalink) Old 12-29-2012, 08:06 PM Thread Starter
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That's all? That seems super easy! I'm ordering one now thank you for the info.

Should it hold steady? Or just slowly decrease?
It should hold steady I believe. Maybe others will chime in if I am wrong. When I connected mine and pressurized it I immediately found multiple leaks at the turbo, where the intercooler connects, at the intake horn grid heater gasket. Mine was very obvious.

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post #22 of 25 (permalink) Old 12-29-2012, 09:05 PM
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It should hold steady I believe. Maybe others will chime in if I am wrong. When I connected mine and pressurized it I immediately found multiple leaks at the turbo, where the intercooler connects, at the intake horn grid heater gasket. Mine was very obvious.
Did you notice any difference in the truck? Mine feels very laggy low end, once it eventually spools its like a rocket.

I just ordered that kit, can't wait to receive it.

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post #23 of 25 (permalink) Old 12-30-2012, 09:30 AM Thread Starter
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Did you notice any difference in the truck? Mine feels very laggy low end, once it eventually spools its like a rocket.

I just ordered that kit, can't wait to receive it.
I will have to recheck mine to make sure I got all the leaks. I had multiple leaks fixed and was down to the last one at the grid heater gasket. I discovered a leak at a small gouged out part of grid heater gasket. Not having another gasket I used some permatex and let it set up for a day before running the truck. I never did a final check to confirm I fixed that leak. I don't hear the leak anymore though which I certainly did before fixing them.

My 5.9 3500 cummins is not a rocket. My 05 duramax 3500 has noticeably more power than the dodge. I do not have experience with other 3500 dodges to know if mine is slow but off the line it does seem laggy. I just assumed all that weight took a bit to get moving.

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post #24 of 25 (permalink) Old 01-09-2013, 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by DieselMuscle View Post
I have been averaging EMPTY on my 05 Dodge Dually 4x4 19.2 to 20.5 mpg.
So can I, in very controlled circumstances and speeds. Not as an average across varying conditions and road speeds, it doesn't happen.

This is exactly what I mean by stories, there is only numbers and no context.

It means no more than the number posted on a new vehicle build sheet, YMMV.

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