Timing rattle?

[JohnDeere]

Originally Posted by Jpalmer

I have not checked for codes but my check engine light has never come on. I'll verify there are no codes tonight. The only additive I use is one quart of 2-stroke every tank and the rattle does not change with or without it. I don't even know for sure if it is timing rattle, it's just a guess. The truck runs and idles very smoothly, just the whole truck seems to rattle at idle. I'm open to any ideas. This has been like this for a few months and doesn't seem to get any better or worse. A lift pump would be an expensive guess to try and fix this.

Take it out and run the snot out of it few times to burn off any excess carbon buildup.

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2006 Mega, Flux 2's, II Silver 62, Smarty, X2, Wicked CP3, Eliminator Fuel System, HTT intercooler, ARP 625s and a broken billet input shaft.

[JohnDeere]

Originally Posted by trik396

I think your injectors might be clogged somewhat, which will give you a rattle. I had it, I knew it.... I loaded my truck up and hit the highway for a 150 mile trip and at around 75-80mph when I was able. Kept boost up, kept rail pressure up, kept egt's higher. Truck ran like new afterwards. These trucks were meant to be worked... HARD...

Exactly!! :thumbsup

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2006 Mega, Flux 2's, II Silver 62, Smarty, X2, Wicked CP3, Eliminator Fuel System, HTT intercooler, ARP 625s and a broken billet input shaft.

[Jpalmer]

What's the best injector cleaner to run through it as I'm walloping her? I'm just concerned about my stock tranny... Maybe I'll bump the programmer down while I run it hard being my Commander is still in the mail. Thanks guys!

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2004 2500HD QC SWB 4X4, 48RE w/ shift kit, leveled on 325/65 Nittos & 18" Eagles, DS Predator, AirDog FP, CFM+ manifold w/ delete, Commander, QZ Boost Fooler, Airaid MIT w/ 4510, silencer ring gone, 5" exhaust, Line-X, and more...

[JohnDeere]

Originally Posted by Jpalmer

What's the best injector cleaner to run through it as I'm walloping her? I'm just concerned about my stock tranny... Maybe I'll bump the programmer down while I run it hard being my Commander is still in the mail. Thanks guys!

Power Service will work, and definitely turn the programmer down for play time.

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2006 Mega, Flux 2's, II Silver 62, Smarty, X2, Wicked CP3, Eliminator Fuel System, HTT intercooler, ARP 625s and a broken billet input shaft.

[trik396]

So you have no gauges?

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2005 DodgeRam2500 CTD/ 4x4/ BigHorn/ Autometer/AmsoilBypass/AemBruteforce
Trans by Goerend/ Walbro392custom fuel system/CAT2micfuelfilters/IISilver64/BanksIC
Projector HID's/DiablosportPredator/VanAaken3.2/QuadsXZT
617hp 1200+trq
KOREChasewFoxShox/Carli&FoxDualSteeringStabilizer/ NittoTerras285's
3 people can keep a secret if 2 of them are dead...

[Jpalmer]

That's why I have been babying her... I know, dumb thing to do but I have not towed, gone on trips or anything since I've done the mods just to be safe. I've only gone WOT four times and for less than five seconds each time. I've finally decided on the Commander so it's in the mail.

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2004 2500HD QC SWB 4X4, 48RE w/ shift kit, leveled on 325/65 Nittos & 18" Eagles, DS Predator, AirDog FP, CFM+ manifold w/ delete, Commander, QZ Boost Fooler, Airaid MIT w/ 4510, silencer ring gone, 5" exhaust, Line-X, and more...

[Buffalo]

You may want to check to see if the previous owner did the "Tone Ring Modification". It does the same thing as the Rocktek Sensor (advances the timing). This mod is free & was somewhat popular a few years ago. You can loosen the bolts on the crankshaft pulley & try to rotate the tone ring counter clockwise til it stops. There is no reason to remove the crankshaft pulley to do this.

With the TR Mod, you removed the tone ring. There are five holes in the TR. Four large ones for the bolts to go through & a small one that accomodates the alignment pin. You took a file or grinding tool & removed a millimeter or two on the counter clock side of the alignment pin hole. This allowed the TR to move or adjust once reinstalled. (I believe the crankshaft bolts need to be torqued to 34 lbs. + 60 degrees.)

I did this with the Van Aaken C-3.2 (duration-only, NO timing or pressure) box & it worked fine. I'm now running a Smarty Jr. & I think it has timing advance built into it because the rattle was much more pronounced.

I loosened the crank shaft pulley bolts & set the TR back to its stock position & the severe rattle went away. There is still a bit when the engine is cold but, it goes away.

Your problem, also, could be injector tips that are carboned-up (like others here have mentioned). I had that problem on my '03, also. Took it into the dealer many times & they wouldn't do anything about it. Finally read, on one of these sites, about the carbon issue.

I put an additive in the tank & it didn't do much but, I didn't have it in for long. I then hooked up my travel trailer & drove from Phoenix to Palmdale, CA. for a Diesel Drag Race. The last fifty miles of the trip were on a two lane road with lots of hills. I was holding up traffic so I put my foot into it & when I got to the track, I noticed that the injector knock was gone.

The knock has come back a couple of times & now, I just run the crap out of it (full-throttle, redline runs, between shifts) & it takes care of the problem, immediately. I do believe these engines were meant to run hard & pull something heavy. They seem to thrive on that kind of treatment & it doesn't seem to hurt them, at all. I know it worked, for me & others here, also.

Hope this helps.

Joe F.(Buffalo)

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'03,Q/C, 3500, 4X4, 6-sp.,Mild Mods
'91.5 W-250, ATS, 16 sq.cm. Alcoa
'98 Nash 25-S Travel Trailer

[Jpalmer]

Thanks for all the help guys. I don't think it is timing rattle because if I load the extreme tune which advances timing the rattle does not change. I'll get some additives and run her hard when I get my Commander installed this weekend. Just out of curiosity, how do you check timing on a diesel???

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2004 2500HD QC SWB 4X4, 48RE w/ shift kit, leveled on 325/65 Nittos & 18" Eagles, DS Predator, AirDog FP, CFM+ manifold w/ delete, Commander, QZ Boost Fooler, Airaid MIT w/ 4510, silencer ring gone, 5" exhaust, Line-X, and more...

[highrollinmopars]

You cannot hurt your stock tranny with the predator alone. I tried very very hard for a long time and just couldnt do it. Even pulling a 9 ton low boy with a mini ex on the back and smoking the tires down from stop lights with the predator on extreme on the tst on 4-4 the tranny held up fine. I blew the motor before the tranny went out.

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03 RAM 2500 4.5" Fabtech 37 BFG Mud, 18" Procomp wheels, 90 DDP nozzles, SMARTY REVO, DDP Challenger 45 turbo, lost my Silencer ring, custom pvc torque tube, K&N, 4" cool duals, new river tranny, ATS module, coolant bypass kit, holley black.

[No Stax]

I have a very similar issue to what you are experiencing.. Dealer says everything is normal, does it with Smarty or without... although it does make a little more noise with it.. It bounces off everything.. like other trucks, walls, drivethrus.. Its very annoying. See if you can hear this noise more from the side or bottom, rather than on top of the motor. You said its only at idle? Are you sure? roll some windows down while cruising around.

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2004.5 2WD QC. Blacked out. Smarty S06.

[fxwannabe]

My rattles like crazy until the boost comes up to about 15 psi or so. I think part of its because I lug it a lot trying to save fuel. I also think my lift pump is on its way out.

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04.5 2500 4wd, 6 speed, 3.73 gears Mods: 4" Superlift, 315/70/17 BFG A/T's, Silencer MIA, Thuren track bar, diPricol boost, egt, and fp gauges, Crazy Larry 330hp/620tq
<----- Getting a 12 valve when I get cash.

[No Stax]

same here.. under boost... no rattle. driving round town.. a lot of horrible noise coming from.... ME! Not the 1985 Ford Escort with 260k on it smoking, barely running, sputtering, and I believe its that turd pinging. Nope.

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2004.5 2WD QC. Blacked out. Smarty S06.