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Old 10-20-2011, 10:47 PM   #1 (permalink)
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front driveshaft cv joint replacement

I need to replace the cv joint in the front driveshaft of my 3500. Got the driveshaft out and all the u-joints removed. Can't figure out how to get the cv ball joint out... anyone?
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Old 10-20-2011, 10:49 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Most driveshaft shops just cut off the entire end and weld on an entirely new assembly
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Old 10-20-2011, 10:51 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Old 10-20-2011, 10:57 PM   #4 (permalink)
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i rebuilt mine myself, cost me like 23 bucks? i know it can be done, whats the issue? I guess im unclear on what wont come apart if you got the u jouints out?
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Old 10-20-2011, 11:12 PM   #5 (permalink)
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In D45's pics - behind that double cardon joint, the yoke flange and the driveshaft flange are joint by a cv ball joint with a black rubber boot that it all sits in. I have the rebuild kit... have the whole unit apart exposing the cv ball... just can't see how I'm gettin it out without damaging the housing that its seated in.
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Old 10-24-2011, 10:49 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Double Cardan Rebuild
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Old 10-26-2011, 07:56 PM   #7 (permalink)
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there is a WAY easier way to do that than the last post... i just did mine last night.

take the flange that mounts to the t-case after the shaft is apart of course, and turn the ball sideways in the socket. (you want the rounded side, not the faces with machined holes facing out) turn on the bench grinder and touch the ball to the stone allowing it to grind a flat ring on the ball as the ball spins. when the flat is about 1/4" wide, turn the flange upside down, turn the ball to where the hole faces down and the ball will fall right out.

now get your mig welder fired up. tack SMALL tacks along the center of the ball race all the way around, cool with a bottle of water and grab your pliers, once the race is cool it will pull right out.

using a pry bar like in the previous post causes nicks and mars that will have to be filed off or they will inhibit the re-installation of the new ball race.
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Old 10-27-2011, 12:03 AM   #8 (permalink)
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or pay 30 bucks and have a drive line shop do it right
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Old 10-27-2011, 12:29 AM   #9 (permalink)
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as much as id love to restrain my thoughts, that was kindof an ignorant post... just because alot of us do it on our own in our own shops doesnt mean we dont do it "right". besides, the 15 minutes of my time to do it "the right way" is definitely worth me saving my $30 plus fuel.
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Old 10-27-2011, 12:48 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uhoh0573 View Post
as much as id love to restrain my thoughts, that was kindof an ignorant post... just because alot of us do it on our own in our own shops doesnt mean we dont do it "right". besides, the 15 minutes of my time to do it "the right way" is definitely worth me saving my $30 plus fuel.


as much as i would love to speek my mind, I wont but never call me ignorant, but your way of changing out the cardin is as bassackwards as can be done, so please dont talk down to me, you dont know me and would never want to meet me, p a b
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Old 10-27-2011, 12:10 PM   #11 (permalink)
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as much as i would love to speek my mind, I wont but never call me ignorant, but your way of changing out the cardin is as bassackwards as can be done, so please dont talk down to me, you dont know me and would never want to meet me, p a b
Oh no watch out for the e-thug. Give the guy a break tough guy if he wants to to his own work then let him, some people don't like just handing over money to someone they don't know. Oh btw don't be ignorant.
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Old 10-27-2011, 01:01 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Oh no watch out for the e-thug. Give the guy a break tough guy if he wants to to his own work then let him, some people don't like just handing over money to someone they don't know. Oh btw don't be ignorant.
hahaha yea your right
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