Welcome to the Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum, the fastest growing Dodge Diesel Community on the internet.
You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!
If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us
I have been following this thread as my transmission temperatures get out of control not hauling anything just this past weekend I was up in the mountains with an ATV in the bed and my temps climbed to around 225 degrees. My transmission is stock as far as I know and i'm only running a 60 hp tune via smarty. I was thinking about purchasing one of these from ATS it's a replacement auxiliary cooler thermostat they go for about 69$ Dodge Cooling Systems - ATS Diesel let me know what you guys think.
The Following User Says Thank You to 05BlackLaramie For This Useful Post:
so the purpose of this thermostat is to bypass the coolant when cold and when it gets up to temp it sends it through the cooler?
is this the one way valve thing they are talking about that in the line or is that something else to?
2005 Dodge Ram 3500 SRW 4x4 -2" leveling, 35 Nitto trail grapplers, Heavy Hauler trans, BHAF, Smarty TNT, FBD 5", ADII, Arson III, Flux 2 injectors, BD Killer B
well from looking at it tonight it's to bypass the cooler, there is no coolent in the cooler so it's not like a heat exchanger. It is just a cooler that when the thermostat gets hot enough it opens up letting the tranny fluid run through the the cooler. Mine was very hard to get out and now I an totally screwed as far as putting the thermostat back in, it shot up into the "body" of my truck and into the abyss. I am trying to figure out what I can stick in there to plug it up, was going to put a threaded 3/8" plug in it but there is not enough wall there to tap the threads for anything.
Well my idea was, (before I get started this is just an idea, I take no responsibility for what you do to your trucks) I was going to take the thermostat, remove the little rod (will stay left out) and cut about 4 coils off the spring (about 1/2"). Then reinstall the thermostat first into the cooler (in it's normal way, little end first) then install the spring behind it and then the cap like normal. This would make the spring push on the thermostat all the time and close the bypass off alltogether and without the rod installed it could not move anything. I would think this would be fine, all my older cars never had a thermostat in the transmission lines and the coolers worked 24/7, didn't seem like it caused any issues...
This is going to be what I do if I have to "clean" the thermostat again in the future.
I know this is a older thread but it still gets referred to.
A update on this, I did the described above but didnt need to cut any coils off the spring. Seemed to have moderate spring pressure but not a lot.
So thermostat went in 1st, with rod removed, Then spring 2nd, and plug w/ clip, last.
The heat trick really works to get plug out. just keep heating and pushing the plug in, letting it spring out, until it starts to finally come farther out.
Unless you live in a really cold environment I would pull it out, take it to a machine shop and have them weld that hold shut (take the thermostat and everything out of course). I am seeing much cooler tranny temps and I live in Southern Wisconsin and have no problems getting my tranny up to operating temp in the dead of winter. That thermostat is only there to help your tranny warm up to operating temp in cold conditions.
For the folks that want to make the cooler have full flow and cool all the time. Remove the internals as previously described, leave out the little metal rod, flip the brass thing around, placing it in backwards. Now it blocks the bypass. Then the spring, plug with a new o-ring. Make sure the area where the o-ring sits is smooth with fine sand paper. Enjoy lower temps.
04.5 CC SB 4x4, Garmon stage 2 trans, Smarty Sr, GDP walbro pump with 2mic filter set up. HE351 with 60/70 turbine wheel, and billet compressor.
Home made traction bars that are awesome.
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to jballou For This Useful Post:
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.