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Old 04-22-2011, 01:47 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Broken Crank...What Now?

Im out of my mind trying to figure out what happened to my motor.Truck has 180k on it,religiously changed oil every 3500 to 4000 miles,never had any problems out of the ordinary.The usual...lift pump,water pump,nothing out of the ordinary given the mileage...mostly highway miles.The only thing that was giving me a problem was the transmission.A few months before the crank snapped,when towing i would occasionally get a shudder that felt like the tourque converter was going.Given the mileage i fugured ok,went to get the transmission looked at,changed fluid...nothing in pan,everything looked clean and was working fine when not under load.Changed the oil two weeks before...nothing on the drain plug magnet .Was going down freeway heard a loud banging sound followed by shakeing...then motor died...would not restart...starter was not engaging...properly.Motor would turn by hand.After pulling the transmission saw oil leaking out of rear seal...went to turn motor again and the end of the crank as i rotated extended out about 1/2" with the rest of crank not moving.
Is it possiable that the tourque converter or bearings in trans going bad could wipe out the crank? Has anyone ever heard of this before?
I cant believe how much a long block costs...and with almost no warenty even from the stealership or anyone elese.
I have been told that the block is probably bad.I have had quotes on a new crankshaft ranging from 800 to 1800 for the crankshaft alone.I guess the only way to figure out if the block is bad is to mag flux the block?
Does anyone know who sells a complete motor? All i seem to find are short and long blocks.I could use some help on figureing out which way to go.Thanks TJ
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Old 04-22-2011, 01:57 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by tjdgrip View Post
Im out of my mind trying to figure out what happened to my motor.Truck has 180k on it,religiously changed oil every 3500 to 4000 miles,never had any problems out of the ordinary.The usual...lift pump,water pump,nothing out of the ordinary given the mileage...mostly highway miles.The only thing that was giving me a problem was the transmission.A few months before the crank snapped,when towing i would occasionally get a shudder that felt like the tourque converter was going.Given the mileage i fugured ok,went to get the transmission looked at,changed fluid...nothing in pan,everything looked clean and was working fine when not under load.Changed the oil two weeks before...nothing on the drain plug magnet .Was going down freeway heard a loud banging sound followed by shakeing...then motor died...would not restart...starter was not engaging...properly.Motor would turn by hand.After pulling the transmission saw oil leaking out of rear seal...went to turn motor again and the end of the crank as i rotated extended out about 1/2" with the rest of crank not moving.
Is it possiable that the tourque converter or bearings in trans going bad could wipe out the crank? Has anyone ever heard of this before?
I cant believe how much a long block costs...and with almost no warenty even from the stealership or anyone elese.
I have been told that the block is probably bad.I have had quotes on a new crankshaft ranging from 800 to 1800 for the crankshaft alone.I guess the only way to figure out if the block is bad is to mag flux the block?
Does anyone know who sells a complete motor? All i seem to find are short and long blocks.I could use some help on figureing out which way to go.Thanks TJ
Hate hearing that man! When i blew my motor some places i checked were junk yards trucks are rolled but the motor still runs and can find them anywhere between $4-7000 pending on mileage they have small warranty's but for sure are running! hope that helps in some way
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Old 04-22-2011, 02:27 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I would look for a totaled truck online or start tearing the engine down the block might be alright depending on where the crank broke. You can find a complete totaled truck for a couple grand and up
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Old 04-22-2011, 02:57 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Just a thought you might want to look at the dampener. They'll do what happened to your truck in a very short time if left alone when bad. But like the others are saying try and find a complete engine to drop in. Best of luck to your truck and your hair.
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Old 04-22-2011, 03:23 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Ouch!! Man that sucks, you could possibly get your insurance to pay for it. A guy I know hyrolocked his jeep wrangler and the dealership denied the warranty work so his insurance picked up the motor, install and whole 9 yards. Of course he had a deductible.
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Old 04-22-2011, 01:01 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I have not checked the dampner...will do so...thanks for the input...does anyone know if i found say an 06 motor....would it retro fit into my 04.5 ,im sure it physically will but not sure about the electronics or software compatiability...not to mention the truck is in Ca.From what i understand about engine replacement in Ca..you can not put an older engine as a replacement that the year of the truck...only newer.Anyone have any ideas?
Thanks
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Old 04-22-2011, 01:15 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Ouch!! Man that sucks, you could possibly get your insurance to pay for it. A guy I know hyrolocked his jeep wrangler and the dealership denied the warranty work so his insurance picked up the motor, install and whole 9 yards. Of course he had a deductible.
He got his insurance to pay for it because that is a valid claim-water getting sucked into engine. If your engine fails/has mechanical failure insurance would not cover that.
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Old 04-22-2011, 05:00 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Give this guy a call, they have rebuilt long blocks.
Mike Morgan 1 800 477 1833
They sell rebuilt long blocks on ebay, good price.
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Old 04-22-2011, 05:20 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I have not checked the dampner...will do so...thanks for the input...does anyone know if i found say an 06 motor....would it retro fit into my 04.5 ,im sure it physically will but not sure about the electronics or software compatiability...not to mention the truck is in Ca.From what i understand about engine replacement in Ca..you can not put an older engine as a replacement that the year of the truck...only newer.Anyone have any ideas?
Thanks
It happens, crank breaks for no reason other than it has a weak spot.

Any 5.9 from 04.5 to 07 will bolt and work with no issues. Just use ALL your computers, harness, and sensors.

An 03-04 motor will work also as long as you use the injectors that come with the engine. The injector tips have a different number of holes and sizes, the cam profile is a bit different but that is the only differences on the HO. The SO has some other internal differences but it will still drop in with no problems.

The fuel maps, timing maps, pressure maps are slightly different on the 04.5 break but you can usually go forward with the engine with good results. You may have to invest in a Smarty to optimize the timing but opens up some good possibilities.
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Old 04-22-2011, 05:23 PM   #10 (permalink)
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sounds like excessive end play do to a bad damper or unbalanced flywheel
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Old 04-22-2011, 06:18 PM   #11 (permalink)
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If you had a 6 speed i would tell you that you have shocked the driveline. See it everyonce and a while at the truck dealer i work for. Maybe a manufactor defect, but i think that would have showed up alot sooner.
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Old 04-22-2011, 06:44 PM   #12 (permalink)
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lots of busted blocks(freeze cracked or rod thru side) out there in the junke yards with good cranks.
just pop the oil pan off, the rod caps off and check the journals.

i'd recrank it. get your original rods checked for straightness, slight chance may have bent one when the crank broke
find a good diesel engine machine shop in your area and have them do all the engine work.
your block is probably perfect, good chance you won't even have to rebore and may be able to use the old pistons with a ring and gasket set.
lowest cost way to go unless you get very lucky on a wrecked low mileage.

there are drooling vultures hunting these engines down because of all the fueling issue failures. they bring top dollar.

one of the toughest diesel cranks on the market, forged high quality steel. they seldom break, what the guys have already said, must have got one of the few with a manuf. flaw that finally gave up from a tranny lockup. seen them break several rods out thru the side of the block and the crank is still pristine and ready to roll another million miles. the pullers and track guys turn these stock Cummins cranks with just some minor machine work to well over 4000 rpm. that's comparable to turning a SM Chebby to 10000 rpm
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