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Old 12-22-2010, 09:47 AM   #1 (permalink)
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2006 5.9L grid heater

anyone know of a link for a parts phish? or can anyone tell me if there is a bridge/connection from grid heater "postive" post to post on a 2006 5.9L CTD? pics would be helpful
thx!
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Old 12-22-2010, 10:11 AM   #2 (permalink)
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yeah this was just covered in another thread I read. there is a buss bar between the two studs on the back of the heater and only 1 power wire leading to the grid.

What do you need to know the info for? (replacing grid with used? reinstalling? rewiring?)
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Old 12-22-2010, 11:48 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Old 12-22-2010, 11:49 AM   #4 (permalink)
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"What do you need to know the info for? (replacing grid with used? reinstalling? rewiring?)"


thx for the info. i'm re-installing the htr and couldn't remember if there was a jumper from "post to post" on the htr connection. it was last yr when i removed it for a htr delete.
now i beleive i need a new relay (code P2609). checked everything else associated with code.

do you know how to clear the code? lol

thx mq105 for the pics!
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Old 12-22-2010, 12:29 PM   #5 (permalink)
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can you hear the relay cycling under the hood shortly after start up? To find out if you need a new relay take a meter and check continuity between the two big poles on the relay as it cycles on and off. If it functions you should get continuity after one click and it will go away after the second click from it.

That code should clear itself once the conditions of the fault have been fixed...meaning once the grid heater cycles normally for 5-10 key cycles the light will go off. Codes can be manually cleared with any OBD-II reader
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Old 12-22-2010, 03:16 PM   #6 (permalink)
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come to think of it,...i haven't heard the relay "click" at all. our next cold morning and i will check it. living in SE La. and the temps are like a roller coaster here.

just checking here...will ohm'ing while there is voltage present harm the testing device?
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Old 12-22-2010, 03:40 PM   #7 (permalink)
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there will voltage present, but it won't have a path to ground, so there will be no path for current to flow.
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Old 12-22-2010, 06:02 PM   #8 (permalink)
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ok. i'm gonna make a short jumpers tomorrow to apply 12vdc and a ground to the posts of the relay that gets voltage from the EMC(?) to see if it will energize. of course i will remove the small wires that controls it

if no click...must be defective. correct?
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Old 12-22-2010, 06:24 PM   #9 (permalink)
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There are 4 posts on them two big, two small. Ground one small, make a jumper from the + batt. to the other small one, and check for click. if it clicks you're HALF done. Just because the armature is moving doesn't mean it is making contact with both of the large terminals internally. Once you power it up with + batt you need to check continuity between the two large terminals.

If you try and it doesn't click, then try to swap the terminals between the ground and + batt. I don't know if there is a diode internally to the relay that would make it function one way and not the other.
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Old 12-22-2010, 06:36 PM   #10 (permalink)
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your correct shibbyutman. i didn't think about the relay may still pull in but still be defective with connecting the 2 large posts, thx.

i guess ohm'ing the 2 large posts, after energizing the relay will tell me if the path is good?
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Old 12-22-2010, 06:40 PM   #11 (permalink)
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yep, but like i said, it needs to be tried with current flowing both ways (in the event it doesn't work in the first) just to make sure it isn't diode protected
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Old 12-22-2010, 07:30 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shibbyutman View Post
yep, but like i said, it needs to be tried with current flowing both ways (in the event it doesn't work in the first) just to make sure it isn't diode protected
rodger that
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