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Old 10-27-2010, 09:38 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Fuel Filter Location and draining

The manual indicates you need to drain water from the fuel filter each month.
Where is the fuel filter and how do you drain it?
Is the fuel filter the same as the fuel water separator filter?

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Old 10-27-2010, 09:44 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GASA765 View Post
The manual indicates you need to drain water from the fuel filter each month.
Where is the fuel filter and how do you drain it?
Is the fuel filter the same as the fuel water separator filter?

Thanks
the fuel filter is on the right side of the motor looking from standing in front of the truck, its down below the fuel rail, it has a plastic nut on the top good sized, like 13/15, its very simple to change, just loosen that nut the cap will come off, the water seperator is just a small plastic turn knob.. Theres only one filer its very simple to change and you should def do it if you know it hassnt been done!!
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Old 10-27-2010, 09:46 AM   #3 (permalink)
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The filter is on the driver's side of the motor and there is a yellow tab on the side of a black canister. It is the size of a large mason jar with a large (29mm) nut on top. That yellow tab has a hose connected to it that the fuel/water will drain out. All you do is open the tab to let it drain. There is only one filter on these trucks that is the fuel filter and water separator. I'll upload a picture later if you need it
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Old 10-27-2010, 09:50 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Yes. It is a combo Fuel water seperator.

Get a new elemet at your local NAPA. Only place that I have forund that sells them. About $17.

The Canister is right in front of the drivers side on the engine bulkhead. Your gonna need a step stool to reach it. I find that its best to replace on the same 6 month schedule as my oil changes and lube. That way I dont forget and It is good to keep an extra filter element in your truck tool box in case you get a load of crappy fuel off in the boodocks.

Take a Plastic bag and slide it over the canister and remove the plastic nut on top. The whole thing will drop into the bag and you can clean the can out with paper towels and put in a new element.

I like to have a can of extra diesil fuel/ Kerosine handi to prefill the canister when I install it.

Be sure to replace the rubber o ring and lube it up with silicone greese before installing. Put grease on the threads of the hold down nut also just because you can.
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Old 10-27-2010, 03:05 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I just had to do mine last night. It was easy, took about 15 min. My truck was not wanting to start, was getting bad, good to go now.
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Old 10-27-2010, 03:34 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WickedGoodOutdoors View Post
Yes. It is a combo Fuel water seperator.

Get a new elemet at your local NAPA. Only place that I have forund that sells them. About $17.

The Canister is right in front of the drivers side on the engine bulkhead. Your gonna need a step stool to reach it. I find that its best to replace on the same 6 month schedule as my oil changes and lube. That way I dont forget and It is good to keep an extra filter element in your truck tool box in case you get a load of crappy fuel off in the boodocks.

Take a Plastic bag and slide it over the canister and remove the plastic nut on top. The whole thing will drop into the bag and you can clean the can out with paper towels and put in a new element.

I like to have a can of extra diesil fuel/ Kerosine handi to prefill the canister when I install it.

Be sure to replace the rubber o ring and lube it up with silicone greese before installing. Put grease on the threads of the hold down nut also just because you can.
I think you just answered your question in your other thred. Do not fill the caniser with karosene ever! Put the new filter in, close the drain, let the LP run for a bit, bump start it a couple times then start it right up. The other thing, if you are running that napa or napa gold or even wix fuel filter, they do not met spec for filtration nor water seperation, by reading your thred about hard starts im guessing that you have a bad set of injectors by what you stated. The only drop in filters that meet spec are the factory mopar/fleetgaurd and bladwin, other than that dont run any other drop in filter unless you want a $3000 plus injector bill, these common rails are not like the 12valve, they are sensitive to dirty fuel.
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Old 10-27-2010, 03:35 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by oldmopars View Post
I just had to do mine last night. It was easy, took about 15 min. My truck was not wanting to start, was getting bad, good to go now.
its such and easy job there is no excuse for anyone not to change it often
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Old 10-27-2010, 10:08 PM   #8 (permalink)
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bulk kerosene especially hauled home in a 5 gal can is some dirty shiite. diesel thats set in a 5 gal can is no better.
to pour it into a fuel filter housing with some of that dirt going into the rail unfiltered is just begging for plugged stuck injectors and hair balls in the return valves.

let the lift pump and fuel filter do their jobs.
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Old 10-28-2010, 09:57 AM   #9 (permalink)
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bulk kerosene especially hauled home in a 5 gal can is some dirty shiite. diesel thats set in a 5 gal can is no better.
to pour it into a fuel filter housing with some of that dirt going into the rail unfiltered is just begging for plugged stuck injectors and hair balls in the return valves.

let the lift pump and fuel filter do their jobs.
i also have never seen kerosene out of the pump thats very clean, it doesnt have to be, its mainly used for heaters
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Old 10-28-2010, 12:01 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I think you just answered your question in your other thred. Do not fill the caniser with karosene ever! Put the new filter in, close the drain, let the LP run for a bit, bump start it a couple times then start it right up. The other thing, if you are running that napa or napa gold or even wix fuel filter, they do not met spec for filtration nor water seperation, by reading your thred about hard starts im guessing that you have a bad set of injectors by what you stated. The only drop in filters that meet spec are the factory mopar/fleetgaurd and bladwin, other than that dont run any other drop in filter unless you want a $3000 plus injector bill, these common rails are not like the 12valve, they are sensitive to dirty fuel.
Good catch!!!

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its such and easy job there is no excuse for anyone not to change it often
no excuses
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Old 10-28-2010, 02:44 PM   #11 (permalink)
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so to drain the water you just open the plastic nut on top? Or to drain it do you have to replace the entire thing?
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Old 10-28-2010, 02:45 PM   #12 (permalink)
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its such and easy job there is no excuse for anyone not to change it often
walk me through a quick play by play/ step by step to drain it?
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