Fuel Filter Location and draining - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum

3rd Gen. Powertrain Discussion of components that are directly involved in the power production and all that is needed to get and keep the truck moving . Engine , Transmission Ect...NO ADVERTISING

Closed Thread
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-27-2010, 09:38 AM Thread Starter
Newbie
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 8
Thanks: 2
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
Fuel Filter Location and draining

The manual indicates you need to drain water from the fuel filter each month.
Where is the fuel filter and how do you drain it?
Is the fuel filter the same as the fuel water separator filter?

Thanks

GASA765 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-27-2010, 09:44 AM
Cummins Fanatic
 
05cumminstd9's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 114
Thanks: 4
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by GASA765 View Post
The manual indicates you need to drain water from the fuel filter each month.
Where is the fuel filter and how do you drain it?
Is the fuel filter the same as the fuel water separator filter?

Thanks
the fuel filter is on the right side of the motor looking from standing in front of the truck, its down below the fuel rail, it has a plastic nut on the top good sized, like 13/15, its very simple to change, just loosen that nut the cap will come off, the water seperator is just a small plastic turn knob.. Theres only one filer its very simple to change and you should def do it if you know it hassnt been done!!

1999, 5 spd. kennys 4k iron DD,with 1 3/8 input, fass 150, 200 hp sticks,BD Super B Special ,ats 3 peice , ARP studs,O-Ringed, Smarty, Edge juice hot unlocked,industrial injection hot rod vp 44, hamilton 110 valve springs, .120 crosstubes
05cumminstd9 is offline  
post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-27-2010, 09:46 AM
Cummins Nut
 
gatorguy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Florida
Posts: 487
Thanks: 164
Thanked 101 Times in 72 Posts
iTrader Score: 1 reviews
The filter is on the driver's side of the motor and there is a yellow tab on the side of a black canister. It is the size of a large mason jar with a large (29mm) nut on top. That yellow tab has a hose connected to it that the fuel/water will drain out. All you do is open the tab to let it drain. There is only one filter on these trucks that is the fuel filter and water separator. I'll upload a picture later if you need it

2014 2500 4x4 CCSB Granite Crystal Tradesman 68RFE Westin Gen-X bars, B&W 1384
2007 3500 4x4, 5.9L 48RE QCSB SRW, Autometer, Aero 4040XL, GDP MK-2+ Kit, Fumoto, Cooper Discoverer ATP - Traded in 01/17/14 @ 136,000
gatorguy is offline  
post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-27-2010, 09:50 AM
Cummins Fan
 
Capt Walt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Saco,Maine
Posts: 73
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
Yes. It is a combo Fuel water seperator.

Get a new elemet at your local NAPA. Only place that I have forund that sells them. About $17.

The Canister is right in front of the drivers side on the engine bulkhead. Your gonna need a step stool to reach it. I find that its best to replace on the same 6 month schedule as my oil changes and lube. That way I dont forget and It is good to keep an extra filter element in your truck tool box in case you get a load of crappy fuel off in the boodocks.

Take a Plastic bag and slide it over the canister and remove the plastic nut on top. The whole thing will drop into the bag and you can clean the can out with paper towels and put in a new element.

I like to have a can of extra diesil fuel/ Kerosine handi to prefill the canister when I install it.

Be sure to replace the rubber o ring and lube it up with silicone greese before installing. Put grease on the threads of the hold down nut also just because you can.

2003 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 Cummins 5.9 HO, 6 Speed

Maine: Sure its Cold; But its a Damp Cold!
Capt Walt is offline  
post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-27-2010, 03:05 PM
Cummins Fan
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 74
Thanks: 1
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
I just had to do mine last night. It was easy, took about 15 min. My truck was not wanting to start, was getting bad, good to go now.

2003 Ram 2500 Quad Cab, 5.9L HO, NV5600 4X4, long bed
ALL STOCK 5th wheel hauler and daily driver
oldmopars is offline  
post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-27-2010, 03:34 PM
Diesel Head
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Peoria IL
Posts: 3,695
Thanks: 642
Thanked 646 Times in 496 Posts
iTrader Score: 1 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by WickedGoodOutdoors View Post
Yes. It is a combo Fuel water seperator.

Get a new elemet at your local NAPA. Only place that I have forund that sells them. About $17.

The Canister is right in front of the drivers side on the engine bulkhead. Your gonna need a step stool to reach it. I find that its best to replace on the same 6 month schedule as my oil changes and lube. That way I dont forget and It is good to keep an extra filter element in your truck tool box in case you get a load of crappy fuel off in the boodocks.

Take a Plastic bag and slide it over the canister and remove the plastic nut on top. The whole thing will drop into the bag and you can clean the can out with paper towels and put in a new element.

I like to have a can of extra diesil fuel/ Kerosine handi to prefill the canister when I install it.

Be sure to replace the rubber o ring and lube it up with silicone greese before installing. Put grease on the threads of the hold down nut also just because you can.
I think you just answered your question in your other thred. Do not fill the caniser with karosene ever! Put the new filter in, close the drain, let the LP run for a bit, bump start it a couple times then start it right up. The other thing, if you are running that napa or napa gold or even wix fuel filter, they do not met spec for filtration nor water seperation, by reading your thred about hard starts im guessing that you have a bad set of injectors by what you stated. The only drop in filters that meet spec are the factory mopar/fleetgaurd and bladwin, other than that dont run any other drop in filter unless you want a $3000 plus injector bill, these common rails are not like the 12valve, they are sensitive to dirty fuel.

2014 2500 Black Appearance Package big horn CTD 4x4.
Thuren suspension, Rigid 30 inch e series, rear air.
MPD106 is offline  
post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-27-2010, 03:35 PM
Diesel Head
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Peoria IL
Posts: 3,695
Thanks: 642
Thanked 646 Times in 496 Posts
iTrader Score: 1 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by oldmopars View Post
I just had to do mine last night. It was easy, took about 15 min. My truck was not wanting to start, was getting bad, good to go now.
its such and easy job there is no excuse for anyone not to change it often

2014 2500 Black Appearance Package big horn CTD 4x4.
Thuren suspension, Rigid 30 inch e series, rear air.
MPD106 is offline  
The Following User Says Thank You to MPD106 For This Useful Post:
steelhead01 (10-27-2010)
post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-27-2010, 10:08 PM
TECH SPECIALIST
 
steelhead01's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 5,885
Thanks: 402
Thanked 978 Times in 799 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
bulk kerosene especially hauled home in a 5 gal can is some dirty shiite. diesel thats set in a 5 gal can is no better.
to pour it into a fuel filter housing with some of that dirt going into the rail unfiltered is just begging for plugged stuck injectors and hair balls in the return valves.

let the lift pump and fuel filter do their jobs.

Funniest question&response on here
AH64ID: Is your kitty in place?
TONASKET:You callin me a *****???
steelhead01 is offline  
The Following User Says Thank You to steelhead01 For This Useful Post:
FastFreddy1414 (10-27-2010)
post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-28-2010, 09:57 AM
Diesel Head
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Peoria IL
Posts: 3,695
Thanks: 642
Thanked 646 Times in 496 Posts
iTrader Score: 1 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by steelhead01 View Post
bulk kerosene especially hauled home in a 5 gal can is some dirty shiite. diesel thats set in a 5 gal can is no better.
to pour it into a fuel filter housing with some of that dirt going into the rail unfiltered is just begging for plugged stuck injectors and hair balls in the return valves.

let the lift pump and fuel filter do their jobs.
i also have never seen kerosene out of the pump thats very clean, it doesnt have to be, its mainly used for heaters

2014 2500 Black Appearance Package big horn CTD 4x4.
Thuren suspension, Rigid 30 inch e series, rear air.
MPD106 is offline  
post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-28-2010, 12:01 PM
Diesel Head
 
guinness765's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: NJ
Posts: 4,302
Thanks: 325
Thanked 302 Times in 245 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by MPD106 View Post
I think you just answered your question in your other thred. Do not fill the caniser with karosene ever! Put the new filter in, close the drain, let the LP run for a bit, bump start it a couple times then start it right up. The other thing, if you are running that napa or napa gold or even wix fuel filter, they do not met spec for filtration nor water seperation, by reading your thred about hard starts im guessing that you have a bad set of injectors by what you stated. The only drop in filters that meet spec are the factory mopar/fleetgaurd and bladwin, other than that dont run any other drop in filter unless you want a $3000 plus injector bill, these common rails are not like the 12valve, they are sensitive to dirty fuel.
Good catch!!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by MPD106 View Post
its such and easy job there is no excuse for anyone not to change it often
no excuses

2005
Mods=enough that I cant afford anymore for a while
guinness765 is offline  
post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-28-2010, 02:44 PM
Cummins Nut
 
slickcav's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 311
Thanks: 1
Thanked 22 Times in 20 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
so to drain the water you just open the plastic nut on top? Or to drain it do you have to replace the entire thing?

2006 Dark Blue 2500 QCSB: Fully built Firepunk Trans/T&C Mild Pump/BD Super B Special/DDP 90 nozzles/AD 150/Hellman Performance Sump/Amsoil BMK-21/EFI Live by Gordon at IDP!
slickcav is offline  
post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-28-2010, 02:45 PM
Cummins Nut
 
slickcav's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 311
Thanks: 1
Thanked 22 Times in 20 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by MPD106 View Post
its such and easy job there is no excuse for anyone not to change it often
walk me through a quick play by play/ step by step to drain it?

2006 Dark Blue 2500 QCSB: Fully built Firepunk Trans/T&C Mild Pump/BD Super B Special/DDP 90 nozzles/AD 150/Hellman Performance Sump/Amsoil BMK-21/EFI Live by Gordon at IDP!
slickcav is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Closed Thread

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome