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Old 10-05-2010, 05:31 PM   #1 (permalink)
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crank no start

ok so my truck will crank but wont start. i checked the intake heater and found it was bad and not working at all so i just changed it and the new one is working just fine as far as i tested it on the truck, however the truck still will not start and the truck sounds like it is cranking fast enough to start. the truck also has no active codes or logged codes. any ideas????
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Old 10-05-2010, 07:15 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Hmm. No codes, that may rule out SKIM key issues... A crank-no-start is commonly attributable to the theft prevention code embedded in the keys. Do you have another key? If so, try it. If not, do this... Get out of the truck, lock the doors with the remote, then unlock the door with the key and see if it starts. That will rule out a SKIM key issue, I think.

Other than that, sounds like you're not getting fuel and/or not building enough rail pressure to start... but I'd somewhat expect a code for that...

What's the temp out? Have you tried using ether?
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Old 10-05-2010, 11:18 PM   #3 (permalink)
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i tried my spare key and its the same way.it will start and run just fine if started with a little wiff of either it takes hardly any to get it to start and once it starts it run like it always has ran. no lose in power or smoking or missing. it is 45 degrees outside. i found the voltage chart for the fuel rail pressure sensore so tm im goin to get out the multi meter and see what the voltage is and it will tell me what the rail pressure is while im trying to start it but is there anything else u guys can think of to check???? where can i check the supply pressure ? how do i know if its a few injectors going out? i dont think its injector because once it starts it runs like it always has at any rpm from idle to wide open running down the road no problem at all
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Old 10-06-2010, 10:59 AM   #4 (permalink)
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You're right, it's probably not an injector. Definitely seems to be a fueling issue.

If you shut it down after it's started on ether and has been running a while, will it start right back up without it?

If not, try this- Bump the key to the start position momentarily (not enough to start it) and let it sit for 25 seconds. This should cause the lift pump to enter into "priming" mode, where it runs for 25 seconds to purge air from the lines. During that 25 seconds, get out of the truck and go back to the back driver's tire and listen to see if you can hear it running. If you can, immediately try to start the truck after that 25 seconds is up. Does it start in that case?
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Autometer / JVC / Polk Audio
Best Tanks: 16.6 towing / 23.92 unloaded hwy / 23.2 city
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Old 10-06-2010, 12:49 PM   #5 (permalink)
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an injector that is leaking will cause this. I went through a hell of time with this and finally ended up with six new injectors.
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Old 10-06-2010, 01:47 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Ok, for my own edification... what symptom of an injector would cause the engine to not start on cranking alone, but would start and continue running fine after a shot of ether?
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aFe Stg 2 / Pusher / GH Delete / FTE 5" TBE
AirDog II DF-165 (P551315/BF1275) / GDP Canister Delete / Bosch 505 - Stock Tips (Replaced @ 112,381 mi)
Autometer / JVC / Polk Audio
Best Tanks: 16.6 towing / 23.92 unloaded hwy / 23.2 city
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Old 10-06-2010, 05:28 PM   #7 (permalink)
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The way I understand it, the injector leaks and bleeds off the pressure on the rail. Now if you happen to have a weak pump, you may or may not be able to rebuild enough pressure to fire the injectors. I had the same symptoms you are describing and after multiple trips to two different dealers, I ended up with a new lift pump, CP3, and 6 new injectors. But it all started with a leaking injector.
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Old 10-06-2010, 06:28 PM   #8 (permalink)
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well it went to the dealer today so we will see what is going on they r goin to start on it tomorrow
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Old 10-06-2010, 07:34 PM   #9 (permalink)
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You are leaking rail pressure....loosen the fuel lines and re torque the transfer tubes and then re torque the fuel lines...be wary of a bad injector
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Old 10-06-2010, 07:41 PM   #10 (permalink)
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quick serve says if u loosen and retorque anthing on the high pressure side u must replace with new fittings and there is not even a slight bit of dampness on the lines not to be mean but i already check this just before i took it earlier today
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Old 10-10-2010, 06:34 PM   #11 (permalink)
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after fighting with the dealership they said it was dirty fuel so they cleaned out the filter housing and put in a new filter and the miricale cleaner that they said will fix it so all this happened friday and i got it back friday now the truck has 100 more miles bc they said to run it and let the cleaner work. so today i went out to start it after sitting for 12 hrs and it wont start at all. i am very mad at them and they are getting it back tommorrow so they will fix it any clues?? i am starting to believe that it is an injector issue after reading up on it. still no codes tho
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Old 10-10-2010, 09:49 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Man, I know what you are dealing with. I had mine in and out of the local dealer a total of three times and they kept screwing stuff up and installing the wrong injectors, so I took it to another dealer in another town. It took them two tries to get it right, but I ended up with an entire new fuel system under the engine warranty. By the way, through all of this, I never saw any codes except for my fan speed.
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