Front Hub and rotor removal 2006 2500 4wd - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 07-27-2010, 09:31 PM Thread Starter
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Front Hub and rotor removal 2006 2500 4wd

Hello to all cust brought in a 2006 Dodge 2500 Cummings with click/binding in frt end on turns inspection shows bad u joint, seems that Dodge used same set up as GMC on frt rotors were hub assembly has to be removed and studs removed to get at hub alone. one problem is cust plows with vehicle and hubs appear to be frozen in steering knuckle. I see from previous posting that some use a socket and extention and a second person using the trucks steering system to aid in pushing the hub out, others say not such a good idea and use a porta power. problem being only place to "wedge" porta power is between frame and knuckle. is there a better way?? I do not want to destroy hubs at 250 a pop. Thanks in advance for help.

Last edited by bobneu; 07-27-2010 at 09:34 PM.
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 07-28-2010, 01:23 PM
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I'm right in the middle of doing the Pass side right now, did the drivers side 3 weeks ago.
I am doing the socket/extension method by myself.
Pull the Brake assembly, pull the keepers from the studs, then rotor will come off.
Use lots of penetrating oil and a big hammer, hit the rotor to break the rust, then pry it off... Remove the ABS sensor...
Take the 4 bolts holding the hub out, spray P-oil in the holes, oil the hub where it mounts, hit it a few times to help the oil break the rust, put the bolts in, leave about 1/2" out, use a 1/2" drive 19mm deep impact socket with a short ext.. put it on a bolt, butt the ext. against the axle housing, crank the wheel hard (truck running), do it again on an opposite bolt. back the bolts out another 1/2", do it again...
Clean all the rust and anti-seize all the faces of the parts b4 assembly...

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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 07-28-2010, 01:59 PM
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I tried using the above mentioned mehod with no luck at all, I went from side to side several times, and it never even attempted to budge the hub loose, all I accomplished was mashing up an extension and putting some nice gouges in the axle housing, but never got it loose that way. I hade to end up driving a very sharp file down between theknuckle and the hub where the abs sensor mounts ( with it removed ). I also had a binding U-joint and had to cut it out with a torch but by the time I got it out I had broken a vice and slightly bent the yoke, and the new u-joint will not go back in. I had to make a 2hr drive this morning to get a replacement axle shaft, so I could get it back together. Everything is stuck awful, why couldn't those stupid u-joints have grease fittings?
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 08-02-2010, 01:20 AM
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I used the socket and power steering way to remove mine, worked good, had to build some rpm to have the juice to turn the wheels, she was stuck in there gooooooooood, not to mention an hour of press work and hammer work to get u joint out.

2006 3500 5.9 Laramie, 48re, QC, LB, STR8 Piped, PPE Xcellerator, 4.5 Fabtech, 35'' MT/R Kevlars
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 08-02-2010, 01:31 AM
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I used a large jaw puller hooked on to the hub and the threaded bolt sitting in the center of the axle shaft.

I got it good and tight, say 75 or 100 ft lbs and just turn the wheel back and forth. It would pop loud and I would retighten and repeat. Took both sides off my 03 with no problems.

Doing an 06 tomorrow. Hopefully it goes just as smoothly.

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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 08-02-2010, 06:10 AM
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Used the socket and extension method a few weeks ago and got it out just fine.

2009 2500 Mega Cab 4X4
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