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Old 05-03-2010, 07:47 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Radiator Drain Pet HELP

Has anyone else tried to flush their radiator and breake the drain pet??? Apparently its only a 1/4 turn wing nut but when you turn it, it does not drain right away and so one thinks you should turn it more. Now the valve and the wing nut are separated...has anyone else done this and fixed it aside from filling it with JB weld???? Its a $7 part from dodge but how do I get it in there!? For the record, this is the longest 5minute job ever.
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Old 05-03-2010, 08:20 AM   #2 (permalink)
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get holdof tsargent4 he just went thru this so he can tell ya what had to be done
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Old 05-03-2010, 08:28 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Thanks...will do.
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Old 05-03-2010, 08:38 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Here he is.

http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/3r...-good-not.html
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Old 05-03-2010, 08:51 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Yeh I read through this but I'm trying to avoid his final outcome of having his truck towed...Mine is sitting in my neighbors airplane hangar with no rad fluid in it. The radiator is still in tact and the pet is still in and holding, it just wont close...there has to be some easier fix.
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Old 05-03-2010, 09:57 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Schopfdawg View Post
Has anyone else tried to flush their radiator and breake the drain pet??? Apparently its only a 1/4 turn wing nut but when you turn it, it does not drain right away and so one thinks you should turn it more. Now the valve and the wing nut are separated...has anyone else done this and fixed it aside from filling it with JB weld???? Its a $7 part from dodge but how do I get it in there!? For the record, this is the longest 5minute job ever.
Are you sure that you broke it? Once mine was loose it would just spin around. I gave it a slight jiggle/pull to break the seal and the fluid started draining. When it was done draining, I had to push on the plug pretty hard to get it to pick up the threads again. It tightened down with no leaks. Here is the procedure I followed:
1. Start truck and turn on heat to full blast.
2. Shut truck off.
3. Open radiator drain but not the radiator cap. This allowed the overflow bottle to drain.
4. Open radiator cap. Inside of the radiator looked perfectly clean. Just under 5 gallons of coolant drained out. The used coolant looked nearly new.
5. Close radiator drain.
6. Refill radiator with 50/50 distilled water and Zerex G-05. I got a couple of big air bubbles out of the system by just bouncing the front of the truck.
7. Replace radiator cap.
8. Fill overflow bottle to max line.
9. Add coolant to overflow bottle over the next couple of days to adjust level as air is purged from the system.

After seeing how clean everything looked after 106,000 miles and 6+ years, I am pretty impressed with the Zerex G-05 coolant. I just wish the Zerex was easier to find.
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Old 05-03-2010, 10:21 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Im sure its broke. I can't close it anymore to hold any fluid in.
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Old 05-03-2010, 10:30 AM   #8 (permalink)
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I guessing it looks like this??



can you maybe heat a flathead screwdriver up and melt a groove into the valve and shut it with the screwdriver???
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Old 05-03-2010, 10:34 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Yeh thats the one! Lol...The dodge dealer sells a whole new one for $7. Im just wondering how the hell you would even replace it? I would assume just pull it straight out with a plyers, but, I read on some other posts that if you do that and snap the piece you end up having to buy a whole new radiator....not looking to do that since i just spent $900 on mag hytec stuff and $500 on royal purple oils...not to mention a $500 injector line fix.
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Old 05-03-2010, 10:37 AM   #10 (permalink)
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well look at it this way you can either put some plastic epoxy in the drain hole. Or you can try to fix it and break the whole valve and then you Still have to put some plastic epoxy in the hole.

You have a pic of what yours looks like currently??
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Old 05-03-2010, 10:44 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Haha, true true. Mine looks exactly like the one pictured above. Its not buggered up or missing anything, it just spins and spins without opening or closing the valve.
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Old 05-03-2010, 10:51 AM   #12 (permalink)
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So what you thinking is the spinny thing broke loose from the ball valve of what ever open and shuts inside that housing.

If thats so then I would get a very small drill bit and drill a pilot hole then screw a small sheet metal screw straight in. Since there right handed threads and you have to turn the valve to the right to close it it will eventually tighten down on its self and shut.

um I think...LOL
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