i have the same code and its always on...the dealership said my alarm is causing it but idk

 

Your dealership my have something there (I hope) -- Security Alarm

My aftermarket security alarm module has malfunctioned. I can no longer use the auto-start feature and if I keep the key turned all the way clockwise while stating I get the fly wheel screech.

I cleared the 2509 code 100 miles ago and it came back. I will get the alarm repaired or replaced.

This same thing just happened to me 2 days ago, have you had any luck figuring it out? The shop its at tells me its the PCM, everyone on here is telling me to check the grounds first, which I'm gonna do as soon as it stops raining. It threw a bunch of codes, but they gave me 4 which are:

U0141- LOST COMMUNICATION WITH IPM-FMCM-TIPM

UU100- LOST COMMUNICATION WITH PCM/TCM

C2202- ORIGINAL VIN MISMATCHING/ MISSING

C2206- VEHICLE CONFIGURATION MISMATCH

The other ones all had to do with the TIPM and PCM he said. The tech said the only module he couldn't talk to though was the PCM.

I sprung the U0141, U0100 and the C2202 but cleared them and they didn't come back. I only have the P2509 now..

I have the U0141 as "ABS Lost Communication with FCM".

 

mine has came on before a few weeks ago but i cleared it and now it came back on again. i checked the code by cycling my key on and off, it showed the code but then the light went away. Does cycling the key clear the codes? and does anyone else know what this code means?

 

bump.........

 

I had this code and read on here that it might be the batteries. I had them checked and they were both bad. I replaced them, had the code cleared, and it has been fine ever since. I had no indications that the batteries were going, so you might start there?

 

my truck is flashing this code and when i press the brake it is powering up almost to the point i cannot keep it at a stop any ideas

 

It is usually the Passenger side Battery that is causing it.

 

do you know why that is?:confused013:

 

It is probably going out. Most the guys with the problem usually have a bad battery. I know mine was going out and it started making noises out of the passenger side battery. Well enough, next day go to start and truck wouldn't fire up. Replaced passenger battery, no more code or hard start up now.

 

Same thing happened to my truck, replaced the batterys and it's been fine since

 

Same here...found out later my driver side battery was no good...replaced it....no more code and starts faster...no more long starts either and voltage gauge stays steady now

 

ive had the same code come on, cleaned of battery terminals, cus they were nasty and the code went away.

 

Had the same thing, it would also "hesitate" sometimes when cranking but the batteries were good and the last straw that forced me to fix it was the truck died when my wife was driving it. Mine was on the drivers side battery. There is a ground wire for the ecu (about a 8-10 gauge wire) that is held onto the negative terminal with a 10 mm nut. I was getting a voltage drop across that connector when the circuit was under load. I pulled the ground terminal completely off, took the bolt completely out, cleaned everything up shiney including the wire, then put it back together and it has been find since.

 

I just had this code brought up and thanks for this post. Im gonna check that ground and then test the batteries here at work. I was about ready to freak out when I got this code but now hopefully I'll be ok.

 

check the batteries.... I get it when I leave things on in my truck and run the batt down... BBQ'd a batt that way replaced it no problems after...

 

ya i had 4 codes pop up this one and the 3 others had low circuit in 2 of them and one high circuit but it just batteries usually.

 

P2509 ECM/PCM Power input signal intermittent

I also got the same code, but my truck wont start unless it is jumped off with another vehicle.

 

I also got the same code, but my truck wont start unless it is jumped off with another vehicle.

If you have ascertained that the batteries are good. You have a bad ground.There are two grounds on the engine block one each side. There is one on the drivers side under the hood on top of the inside fender. This is a ground connection with several straps going to it. Make sure these are clean. They may look mclean ,but remove them and make sure.

 

add me to the list. Im away at college and its been the first code ive ever had. I am very relieved to find out it is just something with the batteries. Ill try cleaning them or maybe replace them soon. Thank you so much for this web site because it probably saved me from taking my truck to the dealer and spending alot of money.

This may have been said, but this code will make your check engine light come on, right? I think it was the only code I saw.

Once again thank you very much1!!!!

 

so now i cant get the code to come up any more, but the engine light stays on. is their a way to get the light to go off? or do i still have a problem even though no code is being thrown?

 

go to autozone and they can test ur batterys for you...if one reads 0 its no good. also find a buddy with a programmer to clear the code for you or maybe a shop can

 

2007 Dodge Diesel 5.9L - Battery Life

I know this is a loaded question but what's the life expectancy for a Diesel battery? I live in AZ and the truck only has 28K miles so I find it odd that the fix for the P2509 Diag Code is a battery. For gas engine batteries I normally get 5 years. Just looking for a sanity check since this is my first diesel.

 

Miles is not a valid measurement for battery life.

Charge/discharge cycles are, as well as internal composition and vibration environment.

Diesels vibrate massively compared to gas engines. Batteries don't like being shaken.

Factory batteries are not the best internal construction.

Charge/discharge cycles are heavy in a diesel, because there are heavier loads placed on the batteries during starting (that's why we have two). Additionally, when you put two batteries in an unregulated parallel configuration, nuances of one battery affect the other. If one takes more charge than the other, it will boil over. If one is weak internally, the stronger battery will constantly try to "charge" it. This really puts a heavy workload on the batteries. Heat and Cold also play a role, because heat really makes the battery work harder, and cold makes it harder for the battery to work. If you live in a hot climate (i.e. Tucson in your case) you can expect any battery to last less than it would in a slightly milder climate. Likewise, if you live in Alaska, you can bet that your battery will seem to have less power in the colder months, and take longer to charge (or not charge at all).

3-4 years is pretty typical of a factory battery pair. That's all I got out of mine. Replaced both the factory 750CCA's with 850CCA NAPA Legend 75-month batteries. If I don't get the full 75 months, I at least get prorated replacement after the first 24 (within the first 24, it's free replacement).

 

I've been throwing this code and just recently caused my truck to stutter and then eventually die. I let it sit for about twenty minutes before I could keep it running when I started down the road. I am still throwing the code along with several other ones along with my speedo and performance data gathering not working.

 

Steveovi, Did you find out what the cause was of this?. Mine did this but stopped now my battery level is shooting up to 19 volts. Any info would be a big help.

Thanks

 

Has anyone had this issue cause a stutter in the turbo where it maxes out at about 1500 rpm and will not go over 20mph?

 

I have a 2007 ram 3500 5.9 turbo, it started fine drove 200 ft all electrical turned off and engine died, cranks but does not want to start. No codes???

 

Any light came on on dash?
Sounded like security issue.

 

Everything seem's normal, all dash light are operating, turned the key on / off 3 times no codes then the comment done pops up and the millage returns.

 

engine light blinks 10 then stops and remains lit