Fuel Pressure gauge Install Questions??? HELP PLEASE

Doughboy21kd · 10-19-2006, 05:21 PM

I just got my Di-Pricol FP Gauge kit and i have everything i need....

Gauge
Isolater
High Pressure hose
Banjo Bolt
Nylon tubing
Needle Valve
gauge Mount

Now my question is: Does anyone have pics of where to put Banjo bolt? I was wondering if anyone knows where or has done a FP gauge install write up?

Where does banjo bolt go? how do i fill isolater? where do i fill isolater?

Is there any torque specs for Banjo bolt?
Do i need to use sealant tape or permatrex on any of the fittings? If so which ones?

THANKS

__________________
2002 Dodge 2500HD, Di-pricol pyro, boost, Fuel pressure, Jammer 2 injectors, Rip's 4" Exhaust, Raptor Lift Pump, mostly stock for now.

TrueValue Truck · 10-19-2006, 06:06 PM

Follow the line from underneath the fuel filter to the CP3. The bolt on top where it feeds into the pump is where I put mine. Some guys will use the fitting on the bottom of the filter housing....you'll get the same reading , but the one on top is easier to get to.
Fill the non fuel side of the isolator with antifreeze , then what I did was "suck" the antifreeze up to the end of the hose in the cab , then connected the line to the isolator and gauge.
The only thing you need on the banjo is a new brass washer/gasket...should come with the banjo.The pipe thread fittings , use thread sealer.
Sorry , I didn't do pics...and this was on my previous truck.

__________________

Caldwellfire.com

06 3500 SRW MC ,Smarty REVO,X2 Race stack, Commander,CFM, Monster Air COI,AFE Torque tube,FASS 150 HPFP LP,Muffler delete,Tipple disc Converter and VB ,ProComp 2" leveling kit,Timbren's,Reese Class V Tow Beast

Ohio Coal Rollers

Cumminsforum.com

Doughboy21kd · 10-19-2006, 09:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TrueValue Truck

Fill the non fuel side of the isolator with antifreeze , then what I did was "suck" the antifreeze up to the end of the hose in the cab , then connected the line to the isolator and gauge.
The only thing you need on the banjo is a new brass washer/gasket...should come with the banjo.The pipe thread fittings , use thread sealer.

First off THANKS....Second What happens if i dont "suck" the antifreeze up? Is it supposed to be straight 100% antifreeze? After looking at my banjo bolt it DOES NOT have the brass washer/gasket....Is that gonna be a problem? Do i need it? And what should i use for sealer? Permatrex work? Is the banjo bolt the only thing i need to put sealant on?....

THANKS i wana do this right the first time around.....:thumbsup :thumbsup

__________________
2002 Dodge 2500HD, Di-pricol pyro, boost, Fuel pressure, Jammer 2 injectors, Rip's 4" Exhaust, Raptor Lift Pump, mostly stock for now.

***Harley27*** · 10-20-2006, 07:27 AM

The washer/gasket is on piece that goes on the threads of the banjo where you connect it to the pump. I recommend replacing it and you should be able to get it at your local Auto store. I used permatex on the pipe fittings going onto the sender and into the banjo bolt then connected it with a chunk of fuel hose and clamps. I used electric gauge so cant help with the antifreeze thing.

__________________

2006 Ram 2500 QC SB 6 Speed 4X4
Smarty, Banks High Ram intake, Silverline turbo back,
AEM Workhorse, Line-X, Auto Meter Fuel pressure, Boost, EGT,
BFG AT's , Airdog 150 and Southbend DD .

TrueValue Truck · 10-20-2006, 07:40 AM

Just use streight antifreeze....you need to get all the air out of the line from the isolator to the gauge to get a good reading. I had just a small air bubble in mine , but it worked fine.You should use a new brass washer , but you might try useing the one from the facrory bolt if its not bent or smashed out to flat.
I didn't use any thread compound on the banjo bolt...only on the pipe thread fittings. That would be the fittings that go into the isolator and the one that goes into the back of the gauge...plus any reducer bushings if you had to use any.
It helps to have someone help you while filling the line with antifreeze. I had a guy hold the line in the gallon jug while I drew the antifreeze up to the cab...and yea...your cheeks will get tired...lol. As soon as the antifreeze gets to the end of the line , hold your finger over the end to keep it from draining out while your helper connects the line to the isolator.Then hook it up to your gauge.

__________________

Caldwellfire.com

06 3500 SRW MC ,Smarty REVO,X2 Race stack, Commander,CFM, Monster Air COI,AFE Torque tube,FASS 150 HPFP LP,Muffler delete,Tipple disc Converter and VB ,ProComp 2" leveling kit,Timbren's,Reese Class V Tow Beast

Ohio Coal Rollers

Cumminsforum.com

TrueValue Truck · 10-20-2006, 07:45 AM

Oh yea.....DO NOT overtighten the Banjo...just make it snug. I don't recal any torque specks with the install instructions when I did mine , I just know you do not want to dammage the threads ! Check it after you fire it up and after a few hours of use.

__________________

Caldwellfire.com

06 3500 SRW MC ,Smarty REVO,X2 Race stack, Commander,CFM, Monster Air COI,AFE Torque tube,FASS 150 HPFP LP,Muffler delete,Tipple disc Converter and VB ,ProComp 2" leveling kit,Timbren's,Reese Class V Tow Beast

Ohio Coal Rollers

Cumminsforum.com

staarma · 10-20-2006, 08:51 AM

Sorry the pics late. Maybe someone searching this thread will at least get to see it.

***Cummins600*** · 10-20-2006, 11:15 AM

Check my garage. I should have a pic in one of my folders with a diagram of the CP3 and the banjo bolt location.
Also, you should have the washers on the pump. Sometimes they stick to the metal tubing or to the factory bolt when you pull it out. They can be re-used if they look undamaged. I did get a new set after taking them out a time or two. If I recall, the banjo bolt should only be torqued to 18 ft-lbs.

__________________
Bryan
2004.5 Cummins HO CCSB 4X4 SLT, TST PMCR, BDDL, HTB2 62/14 Turbo, Goerend Full Billet Trans w/ Triple disk converter, FASS 95 GPH, Amsoil 4090 w/ K&N intake, Magna Flow 4" SS Exhaust, MBRP 5" SS tip, Smittybuilt SS Nerf Bars, Westin SS Grille Guard, Di-Pricol Optix Boost, Trans, Pyro, and Fuel Gauges, Tuff Country 4.5" Lift, Eagle 178 18x9 rims w/ 35/12.50/18 Toyo Open Country MT's, Bushwacker Extend-a-Fender Flares :thumbsup

***Cummins600*** · 10-20-2006, 11:27 AM

I used a master cylinder vacuum to pull the antifreeze up on mine. It worked pretty quick that way. The more air you get out, the better. The antifreeze will be on the gauge to isolator side of the isolator. The other will be the fuel side. You should also have a bleeder screw on that one. You can turn the key on and let the fuel pump cycle a time or two then crack the bleeder to get some air out. I found that starting the truck works real well. You can crack the bleeder then and get just about all the air out. Just be careful to only crack the bleeder screw.
It is really a pretty easy install when you have all the pieces like you do. Hope it all works well. Let us know.:thumbsup

__________________
Bryan
2004.5 Cummins HO CCSB 4X4 SLT, TST PMCR, BDDL, HTB2 62/14 Turbo, Goerend Full Billet Trans w/ Triple disk converter, FASS 95 GPH, Amsoil 4090 w/ K&N intake, Magna Flow 4" SS Exhaust, MBRP 5" SS tip, Smittybuilt SS Nerf Bars, Westin SS Grille Guard, Di-Pricol Optix Boost, Trans, Pyro, and Fuel Gauges, Tuff Country 4.5" Lift, Eagle 178 18x9 rims w/ 35/12.50/18 Toyo Open Country MT's, Bushwacker Extend-a-Fender Flares :thumbsup

Doughboy21kd · 10-20-2006, 10:47 PM

Thanks for the info....Is there any tips or tricks i should know before i do this tommorrow?

How many sealer washers do i use on the banjo bolt? Just 1 right?

I actually bought the cummins gasket sealer washers...they were a FREE-BEE

Curious cause they come in a 2 pack....THANKS

__________________
2002 Dodge 2500HD, Di-pricol pyro, boost, Fuel pressure, Jammer 2 injectors, Rip's 4" Exhaust, Raptor Lift Pump, mostly stock for now.

TrueValue Truck · 10-21-2006, 01:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Doughboy21kd

Thanks for the info....Is there any tips or tricks i should know before i do this tommorrow?

How many sealer washers do i use on the banjo bolt? Just 1 right?

I actually bought the cummins gasket sealer washers...they were a FREE-BEE

Curious cause they come in a 2 pack....THANKS

Only use one..and make sure the old one isn't stuck on the top of the pump..:thumbsup

__________________

Caldwellfire.com

06 3500 SRW MC ,Smarty REVO,X2 Race stack, Commander,CFM, Monster Air COI,AFE Torque tube,FASS 150 HPFP LP,Muffler delete,Tipple disc Converter and VB ,ProComp 2" leveling kit,Timbren's,Reese Class V Tow Beast

Ohio Coal Rollers

Cumminsforum.com

***Cummins600*** · 10-22-2006, 08:00 AM

On my factory set-up it had one between the fuel line and the Cp3, and another between the top of the fuel line and the banjo bolt. Guess it wouldn't be totally necessary for the top one especially since the factory system is so low pressure.

__________________
Bryan
2004.5 Cummins HO CCSB 4X4 SLT, TST PMCR, BDDL, HTB2 62/14 Turbo, Goerend Full Billet Trans w/ Triple disk converter, FASS 95 GPH, Amsoil 4090 w/ K&N intake, Magna Flow 4" SS Exhaust, MBRP 5" SS tip, Smittybuilt SS Nerf Bars, Westin SS Grille Guard, Di-Pricol Optix Boost, Trans, Pyro, and Fuel Gauges, Tuff Country 4.5" Lift, Eagle 178 18x9 rims w/ 35/12.50/18 Toyo Open Country MT's, Bushwacker Extend-a-Fender Flares :thumbsup

10-19-2006, 05:21 PM	#1 (permalink)
Doughboy21kd Cummins Nut Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Gary, IN Posts: 366 Doughboy21kd's Truck Pics	Fuel Pressure gauge Install Questions??? HELP PLEASE I just got my Di-Pricol FP Gauge kit and i have everything i need.... Gauge Isolater High Pressure hose Banjo Bolt Nylon tubing Needle Valve gauge Mount Now my question is: Does anyone have pics of where to put Banjo bolt? I was wondering if anyone knows where or has done a FP gauge install write up? Where does banjo bolt go? how do i fill isolater? where do i fill isolater? Is there any torque specs for Banjo bolt? Do i need to use sealant tape or permatrex on any of the fittings? If so which ones? THANKS __________________ 2002 Dodge 2500HD, Di-pricol pyro, boost, Fuel pressure, Jammer 2 injectors, Rip's 4" Exhaust, Raptor Lift Pump, mostly stock for now.

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10-19-2006, 06:06 PM	#2 (permalink)
TrueValue Truck Tech Specialist/Super Moderator Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Caldwell,Ohio Posts: 3,556 TrueValue Truck's Truck Pics	Follow the line from underneath the fuel filter to the CP3. The bolt on top where it feeds into the pump is where I put mine. Some guys will use the fitting on the bottom of the filter housing....you'll get the same reading , but the one on top is easier to get to. Fill the non fuel side of the isolator with antifreeze , then what I did was "suck" the antifreeze up to the end of the hose in the cab , then connected the line to the isolator and gauge. The only thing you need on the banjo is a new brass washer/gasket...should come with the banjo.The pipe thread fittings , use thread sealer. Sorry , I didn't do pics...and this was on my previous truck. __________________ Caldwellfire.com 06 3500 SRW MC ,Smarty REVO,X2 Race stack, Commander,CFM, Monster Air COI,AFE Torque tube,FASS 150 HPFP LP,Muffler delete,Tipple disc Converter and VB ,ProComp 2" leveling kit,Timbren's,Reese Class V Tow Beast Ohio Coal Rollers *Cumminsforum.com*

10-20-2006, 07:27 AM	#4 (permalink)
*Harley27* Will work for BOMBs Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Western Pennsylvania Posts: 514 Harley27's Truck Pics	The washer/gasket is on piece that goes on the threads of the banjo where you connect it to the pump. I recommend replacing it and you should be able to get it at your local Auto store. I used permatex on the pipe fittings going onto the sender and into the banjo bolt then connected it with a chunk of fuel hose and clamps. I used electric gauge so cant help with the antifreeze thing. __________________ 2006 Ram 2500 QC SB 6 Speed 4X4 Smarty, Banks High Ram intake, Silverline turbo back, AEM Workhorse, Line-X, Auto Meter Fuel pressure, Boost, EGT, BFG AT's , Airdog 150 and Southbend DD .

10-20-2006, 07:40 AM	#5 (permalink)
TrueValue Truck Tech Specialist/Super Moderator Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Caldwell,Ohio Posts: 3,556 TrueValue Truck's Truck Pics	Just use streight antifreeze....you need to get all the air out of the line from the isolator to the gauge to get a good reading. I had just a small air bubble in mine , but it worked fine.You should use a new brass washer , but you might try useing the one from the facrory bolt if its not bent or smashed out to flat. I didn't use any thread compound on the banjo bolt...only on the pipe thread fittings. That would be the fittings that go into the isolator and the one that goes into the back of the gauge...plus any reducer bushings if you had to use any. It helps to have someone help you while filling the line with antifreeze. I had a guy hold the line in the gallon jug while I drew the antifreeze up to the cab...and yea...your cheeks will get tired...lol. As soon as the antifreeze gets to the end of the line , hold your finger over the end to keep it from draining out while your helper connects the line to the isolator.Then hook it up to your gauge. __________________ Caldwellfire.com 06 3500 SRW MC ,Smarty REVO,X2 Race stack, Commander,CFM, Monster Air COI,AFE Torque tube,FASS 150 HPFP LP,Muffler delete,Tipple disc Converter and VB ,ProComp 2" leveling kit,Timbren's,Reese Class V Tow Beast Ohio Coal Rollers *Cumminsforum.com*

10-20-2006, 07:45 AM	#6 (permalink)
TrueValue Truck Tech Specialist/Super Moderator Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Caldwell,Ohio Posts: 3,556 TrueValue Truck's Truck Pics	Oh yea.....DO NOT overtighten the Banjo...just make it snug. I don't recal any torque specks with the install instructions when I did mine , I just know you do not want to dammage the threads ! Check it after you fire it up and after a few hours of use. __________________ Caldwellfire.com 06 3500 SRW MC ,Smarty REVO,X2 Race stack, Commander,CFM, Monster Air COI,AFE Torque tube,FASS 150 HPFP LP,Muffler delete,Tipple disc Converter and VB ,ProComp 2" leveling kit,Timbren's,Reese Class V Tow Beast Ohio Coal Rollers *Cumminsforum.com*

10-20-2006, 08:51 AM	#7 (permalink)
staarma Cummins Nut Join Date: Jun 2006 Posts: 355 staarma's Truck Pics	Sorry the pics late. Maybe someone searching this thread will at least get to see it.

10-20-2006, 11:15 AM	#8 (permalink)
*Cummins600* Diesel Freak Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Terre Haute, Indiana Posts: 883 Cummins600's Truck Pics	Check my garage. I should have a pic in one of my folders with a diagram of the CP3 and the banjo bolt location. Also, you should have the washers on the pump. Sometimes they stick to the metal tubing or to the factory bolt when you pull it out. They can be re-used if they look undamaged. I did get a new set after taking them out a time or two. If I recall, the banjo bolt should only be torqued to 18 ft-lbs. __________________ Bryan 2004.5 Cummins HO CCSB 4X4 SLT, TST PMCR, BDDL, HTB2 62/14 Turbo, Goerend Full Billet Trans w/ Triple disk converter, FASS 95 GPH, Amsoil 4090 w/ K&N intake, Magna Flow 4" SS Exhaust, MBRP 5" SS tip, Smittybuilt SS Nerf Bars, Westin SS Grille Guard, Di-Pricol Optix Boost, Trans, Pyro, and Fuel Gauges, Tuff Country 4.5" Lift, Eagle 178 18x9 rims w/ 35/12.50/18 Toyo Open Country MT's, Bushwacker Extend-a-Fender Flares :thumbsup

10-20-2006, 11:27 AM	#9 (permalink)
*Cummins600* Diesel Freak Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Terre Haute, Indiana Posts: 883 Cummins600's Truck Pics	I used a master cylinder vacuum to pull the antifreeze up on mine. It worked pretty quick that way. The more air you get out, the better. The antifreeze will be on the gauge to isolator side of the isolator. The other will be the fuel side. You should also have a bleeder screw on that one. You can turn the key on and let the fuel pump cycle a time or two then crack the bleeder to get some air out. I found that starting the truck works real well. You can crack the bleeder then and get just about all the air out. Just be careful to only crack the bleeder screw. It is really a pretty easy install when you have all the pieces like you do. Hope it all works well. Let us know.:thumbsup __________________ Bryan 2004.5 Cummins HO CCSB 4X4 SLT, TST PMCR, BDDL, HTB2 62/14 Turbo, Goerend Full Billet Trans w/ Triple disk converter, FASS 95 GPH, Amsoil 4090 w/ K&N intake, Magna Flow 4" SS Exhaust, MBRP 5" SS tip, Smittybuilt SS Nerf Bars, Westin SS Grille Guard, Di-Pricol Optix Boost, Trans, Pyro, and Fuel Gauges, Tuff Country 4.5" Lift, Eagle 178 18x9 rims w/ 35/12.50/18 Toyo Open Country MT's, Bushwacker Extend-a-Fender Flares :thumbsup

10-20-2006, 10:47 PM	#10 (permalink)
Doughboy21kd Cummins Nut Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Gary, IN Posts: 366 Doughboy21kd's Truck Pics	Thanks for the info....Is there any tips or tricks i should know before i do this tommorrow? How many sealer washers do i use on the banjo bolt? Just 1 right? I actually bought the cummins gasket sealer washers...they were a FREE-BEE Curious cause they come in a 2 pack....THANKS __________________ 2002 Dodge 2500HD, Di-pricol pyro, boost, Fuel pressure, Jammer 2 injectors, Rip's 4" Exhaust, Raptor Lift Pump, mostly stock for now.

10-22-2006, 08:00 AM	#12 (permalink)
*Cummins600* Diesel Freak Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Terre Haute, Indiana Posts: 883 Cummins600's Truck Pics	On my factory set-up it had one between the fuel line and the Cp3, and another between the top of the fuel line and the banjo bolt. Guess it wouldn't be totally necessary for the top one especially since the factory system is so low pressure. __________________ Bryan 2004.5 Cummins HO CCSB 4X4 SLT, TST PMCR, BDDL, HTB2 62/14 Turbo, Goerend Full Billet Trans w/ Triple disk converter, FASS 95 GPH, Amsoil 4090 w/ K&N intake, Magna Flow 4" SS Exhaust, MBRP 5" SS tip, Smittybuilt SS Nerf Bars, Westin SS Grille Guard, Di-Pricol Optix Boost, Trans, Pyro, and Fuel Gauges, Tuff Country 4.5" Lift, Eagle 178 18x9 rims w/ 35/12.50/18 Toyo Open Country MT's, Bushwacker Extend-a-Fender Flares :thumbsup