Hey guys ive been a lurker on the site for about 3 years now, and since we have to have 50 post and be a member now to look at classified I figured what better time to sign up. So I guess I should start of by listing my truck and what my plan is for the truck. I have 05.5 qcsb g56, south bend single disk(I think its the organic/ceramic), raptor 150 with big line kit, arson stage 3 kit, s&b intake, ats horn, mbrp 5 in, isspro egt, boost, lift pump, and rail, smarty s06 with boost fooler, 8 in lift with 24x12 rockstars on 38's.
I guess the kit im looking at is the crazy carl stock over s475 or just get the piping kit and buy the s475 off ebay since you can find them around 700 dollars. I would save some money that way. I would then probably get studs or injectors, plan on doing either 120-150's but probably 150's incase I ever upgrade the stock turbo. I also will keep the boost at what it is now until I have studs, injectors, and clutch.. I know you guys always say do air before fuel but I was also thinking if I did the twin kit first it will make me get everything else a lot faster, instead of getting studs, putting it off then injectors and putting it off then a year later get the twin kit.... my goal is to stop where most people say they should have at between 650-750hp.. Thanks for the help guys
is there anything i need to be concerned about? ill be getting new gaskets and piping boots, what do i need to know about sitting the boost? is it just controlled with the smarty?
You just don't want to run too much boost for your stock springs and head bolts. Nothing to be overly concerned with, you just don't want to be running much over low to mid 40psi on stock head bolts. I know many will say they have and you may get away with it also but the more you play toward the "ragged edges" the more likely you will have some type of failure.
Without injectors and more fuel you likely won't see much higher than low 40s for boost anyway...just be smart don't run it hard until motor is at operating temp and run a lower setting in the smarty if need be so it doesn't fuel as much. Stock springs will be good for ~ 50psi. Use commone sense but have some fun too....
Yes you will want to do higher rated valve springs if you plan to run that high of boost, you could probably get away with it for a little while but for the cost of springs just do them when you do injectors since you will already be there...
Push rods???? Well some say yes and some say no that's a decision you will have to make on your own...some guys like to run the stock push rods so there is a "weak" point that won't cause catastrophic damage others just say upgrade them when you do springs...I personally had springs, XD push rods and tappets/lifters done when I had my cam put in...it is a bit tedious but it can all be done without removing the head.
its actually more different than it even appears! It runs: crank, tensioner, AC, alt., idler, SC, fan, water pump, crank. This gives the belt more wrap on the crank.
Carl can you pm me about all the changes made? I'm still having a few clearance issues with my kit. I would like to work something out to fix the problem.
Ive heard the coolant bypass with the 2000's is good compromise, but id build my own coolant bypass kit to save the money there...
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