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Old 08-30-2012, 06:30 PM   #1 (permalink)
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In Theory

Hello men!

I have been reading, and writing and figuring with some discussion with a few guys. We have talked about the best way to make a 'Bulletproof' CR. This has came down to, some thought on my parts.

We (The group of guys I gather with and myself) are want to theoretically build a 'Bulletproof' or at least very stable 5.9 CR.

We started out like any group on a board for a race engine, the block is where we are. Like the Chevys infamous 4 bolt main 350 and the rare 4 bolt main Fords, we talked and discussed. As far as I know, the 1st and second gen 12v blocks, had the 14mm bolt mains, which I have a first gen in my garage, anyways. This would be a great platform to start with, having bigger mains.

Now we get into the internals.

The base of our engine is to be again Bulletproof/Very Stable. The engine would be a 'H.O.' Engine in a street truck. Maybe some sled pulling. Etc etc

So we are not worried about Camarillo rods and such. But one of the guys heard of a hybrid stroker kit for the 5.9, which used the 6.7's crank. Just for or curiosity does anyone know if this is true?

Anyways, we would plan on a rebuild, with pistons for a CR since the 12V pistons would be of no use. On top of that the pistons would be fly cut for a cam.

From there we discussed filling the block with block filler before we have the cylinders bored over. With that we would run a electric water pump.

From there with the cam installed we would use 24V tappets with the cam, and have to put the CR timing cover on. Now we get into the CP3 ordeal.

Our idea is a truck running dual CP3's, and a triple turbo setup. Now we as guys who want to better ourselves and like to learn about all things diesel got into a discussion one day about Dual CP3 kits, and is there any kit that is better then another or is there parts from each kit that you would use to make one superb kit?

Also we talked about for maximum fuel, using two 'stroked' Duramax CP3's, to feed our 5.9. Would that be a good idea (Seemed to be a tad cheaper route) or is there a better way to go?

We then talked about cylinder head work. Milling the stock intake off and using a Big Hoss or a Hellman intake, but as I read the Big Hoss intake can't be used with Twin CP3s.

With that we would also get the heads port and polished, big valves (Is there such thing?), Bowl Work, and Fire Rings.

We are assuming that the CR head would bolt onto a 1st gen block with no problems, by the way.

From there it would be finding the right set of injectors for our application, custom tuning and such. We know there would be a lot of small parts needed to hold up to our setup, which we already have down. We also talked on what would be the best way to crank 4500 RPM's safely? One of the guys said he talked to someone who runs EFI Live, and a ATS Atmoizer box, and says its a perfect combination. Anything to this?

We are up for suggestions, and like some constructive criticism. Hope to hear from you men, thanks!
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Old 08-30-2012, 07:01 PM   #2 (permalink)
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a billet block would be more along the lines of bullet proof, as well az a billet crank and aftermarket rods as well as steel pistons ie. monotherms and so on
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Old 08-30-2012, 07:44 PM   #3 (permalink)
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But your talking 15k for a block, 6k for monotherms and billet Rods, then whatever for a billet crank. That's just hard parts, no bearings, fasteners, or anything to do with a head.

But if it's a theory, then go for it
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Old 08-30-2012, 08:39 PM   #4 (permalink)
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7500 for the billet crank

Op how much power are you looking to make... This could save you a bunch of money depending on your answer...
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Old 08-30-2012, 08:58 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Nothing like 28.5k in "4" components
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Old 08-30-2012, 10:07 PM   #6 (permalink)
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If u got the money who gives a s---! Got to pay to play!!
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Old 08-30-2012, 10:09 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Yeah but we need to know his power level that he wants to achieve... There could be a ton of money saved just by knowing that answer...
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Old 08-30-2012, 10:13 PM   #8 (permalink)
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^^^^^^^^^ Agreed
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Old 08-30-2012, 10:33 PM   #9 (permalink)
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The concept is using a stonger 1st/2nd gen block which is on my garage floor, and building it up to a CR engine. This is just a idea a few of us guys are throwing together, as we eat breakfast.

The concept is of a engine that would be a High performance street engine, with most standard components. We know we could do a billet block, and all this other BS but we are wanting something so that we can be teched as using a factory block.

So we are shooting for maybe 800 or so HP. But this is all theory, it may be with me a few years from now when I do build up a engine but were at the curious factor. We want to use what we stated. I guess mainly we wanna use a stronger block and swap all the CR stuff onto it.
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Old 08-30-2012, 10:40 PM   #10 (permalink)
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when you sY bullet proof that was my definition of bullet proof, I am goi.g that route now. Spoke to steve sr. about my block last week. Should sign paperwork next week on the final prints....
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Old 08-30-2012, 10:54 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Well at 800hp you don't need to go through half of the stuff you described... Start with a cr motor...

Coated pistons by Swain Tech
12 valve rods shot peened and polished
ARP Hardware
Girdle
Dual CP3's (Cummins on bottom Duramax up top-both stock)
110lb valve springs
Pushrods
Balanced Rotating Assembly
100% over exergy's (room to grow)
Cam
Stock head is fine (obviously could be made more efficient-but not necessary)

That is a much much cheaper list...

If you want to see some serious abuse on this setup... take a look in this thread, you will learn a ton.

The build-up (lots of pics)
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Old 08-11-2013, 01:44 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Biggest issue with your plan is trying to run CR pistons in a 12V block. Different piston cooling nozzles, and youll likely end up burning up pistons

Anything can be achieved with enough ignorance and money, and for some people thats just the way they want to do it...

I'd suggest you start with a 6.7 shortblock if you want the cubes, or start with a 5.9 commonrail (since you want to run a CR system anyways) and build as suggested above.

Block strength isnt a big concern @ 800hp, any of the factory blocks will handle that (and handle it reliably when build right, ie main studs and girdle)

You dont need a $50k engine to make 800hp reliably, and you sure as hell dont need a 15k stroker crank! (http://www.destroked.com/prod_stroker.php)



As for that 12v block youve got on the floor, why not build a reliable 800hp 12v?
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