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So I guess I am finally going to throw this thing on a dyno, a local performance shop here in Stl has a Mustang Dyno MD-250 Chassis Dyno and I am curious as to whether or not they are accurate or work well for our trucks? I have a 6 speed manual, the truck is in my signature. Any recommendations or tips for dynoing this thing? Guesses on what I will make number wise are welcome
__________________ 2005 Dodge 2500 QCSB 4x4 | Air Dog 150 | Spool Valve | Southbend Dual Disk | A1 12mm Head Studs | HD Pushrods | #110 Hamilton Springs | Fluid Dampr | Smarty UDC Tuned | 75% over Injectors | Dual CP3's | Billet 66 | Homemade Manifold | 5in Exhaust | Autometer Rail Boost Pyro and Fuel Pressure Gauges | Carli Track Bar | Black Ops Diesel 1 Inch Red I-Beam Control Arms | Traction Bars | 20x12 Fuel Hostages 33x12.50R20 Toyo MT's 606HP 1038TQ
As far as working for these pickups yes a mustang will work fine. Accuracy is a different story. Dyno's can give you a good idea of your power level but they are better used as a tuning tool to get the most power out of your setup.
I looked up that MD-250, should work. The main thing is contacting the shop and pinning them down with a definite answer as to whether or not they have ran diesels and can they load them properly. It's all about the software programming.
I've run on load cells and on inertia type rollers as well. They both seemed to work well for my pickup. At least more often than not I could punch my 1/4 mile trap speed into a hp calculator and come up with basically the same number that I hit on the dyno.
IMO manuals are easier to run on a dyno because you don't have to worry about the trans shifting on a pull. So you got that going for you......which is nice (said in Bill Murray voice).
Dyno guess: 650-750
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Last edited by Sandaholic; 08-08-2012 at 12:33 PM.
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Note: I hate how everybody uses a different method to identify the size of their sticks! They should all switch to liters per minute. (rant off)
I completely agree with you it is a pain in the Arse! They are supposed to be around 160-180hp injectors. I am hoping to hit 700's hp wise but not sure I will do it, I am running Smarty TNT-R SW #5 Torque 2, Timing 3, RP 2 because it is the coolest best seat of the pants tune I found. I believe #5 is supposed to be 190hp tune
__________________ 2005 Dodge 2500 QCSB 4x4 | Air Dog 150 | Spool Valve | Southbend Dual Disk | A1 12mm Head Studs | HD Pushrods | #110 Hamilton Springs | Fluid Dampr | Smarty UDC Tuned | 75% over Injectors | Dual CP3's | Billet 66 | Homemade Manifold | 5in Exhaust | Autometer Rail Boost Pyro and Fuel Pressure Gauges | Carli Track Bar | Black Ops Diesel 1 Inch Red I-Beam Control Arms | Traction Bars | 20x12 Fuel Hostages 33x12.50R20 Toyo MT's 606HP 1038TQ
I have run on two different kinds of mustang dynos, two different dynojet models, and a dyno dynamics. As stated above, about every dyno will read differently. The two biggest influences are if it is a load style or not, and if they are using a correction factor. The numbers have to be taken with a grain of salt - it will give you a good idea where you're at. Have fun!
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Note: I called the shop and they said they have had plenty of trucks like mine on the dyno, they stated they load it pretty heavy until the turbo is spooled and then they let it go. Sound right?
__________________ 2005 Dodge 2500 QCSB 4x4 | Air Dog 150 | Spool Valve | Southbend Dual Disk | A1 12mm Head Studs | HD Pushrods | #110 Hamilton Springs | Fluid Dampr | Smarty UDC Tuned | 75% over Injectors | Dual CP3's | Billet 66 | Homemade Manifold | 5in Exhaust | Autometer Rail Boost Pyro and Fuel Pressure Gauges | Carli Track Bar | Black Ops Diesel 1 Inch Red I-Beam Control Arms | Traction Bars | 20x12 Fuel Hostages 33x12.50R20 Toyo MT's 606HP 1038TQ
I have found Mustang dynos to be the most realistic I have been on.
I could care less about the biggest horse power number, I want to see my truck react the same on the dyno as it does on the street. Some of the highest horse power numbers I have seen were completely unrealistic. I know when my truck feels the most powerful on the street.
I pay very close attention to my gauges, I know where my boost should be, my rail pressure, fuel supply pressure ect.
When I see 50lbs. of boost on the street my truck feels amazing, so when I see a 700 horse power dyno sheet at only 30 psi on one dyno I know it bogus. When I see 735 horse power at 50 psi I see that being a lot more realistic.
If you have a good dyno operator with the right software they can really do some amazing things with those Mustang Dyno's
Sounds right to me. I'm new on here but I took EFI universitys tuning classes. Had my old Powerstroke on the dyno and tuned my old 70 buick on a dyno dynamics eddy current dyno.
Rule of thumb I was taught is that mustang dynos have a lower reading than say a dyno dynamics, dynojet, mainline, etc... FYI Dyno jet dynos have a higher reading than just about everyone else in the industry to. USUALLY if you dyno your truck on a mustang and it makes 700hp, you can dyno it on a dynojet and it would read as high as 800hp. Again this is just a very general estimate... i have personally seen my LS1 make 398hp at the wheels on a mustang. 2 weeks later a ran it on a dynojet without changing anything at all and it made 482hp at the wheels. It all comes down to how the tuning shop has there particular dyno setup and what correction/compensation factors are used.
As everyone else stated, dynos are a tuning tool used to keep the motor at a constant speed while tuning. Any number you get out of it is just to be used as a reference point for when you change something in the engine. If you change an intake and the number goes up... obviously you gained HP etc...
I dont know cummins motors to well yet so i cant give you a guess on what your truck might make for horsepower. Hope my share of knowledge helps you out. Good luck with your truck man.
__________________ 2006 Mega Cab 2wd: EFI by Anarchy Diesel, S&B intake, silencer ring MIA, Tunnel Ram, grid heater delete, Diy intake horn, 5" TBE, Factory match(boost, trans, pyro), Transgo kit, Hellwig bags, otherwise all stock. Coming soon: Cross Air, air dog II
Last edited by ElkinsRacing; 08-08-2012 at 03:05 PM.
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They are heart breakers because people get used to spiking a dyno jet and thinking they make all kinds of crazy horse power and then they get on a Mustang that actually holds the load and doesn't spike.
I would rather have a lower number that I know is realistic than a spike number. Anyone that has spent much time around these trucks and has built powerful trucks knows what combination of parts puts down what kind of numbers.
It's not hard to tell when someone has been on a dyno jet. Their number usually look pretty unrealistic.
I would guess the OP is going to see between 600-645 with the parts he has. If the operator knows what he is doing anyway.
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