Some pics... I also forgot that I gasket matched the turbine inlet with the Dremel as well.

 

how difficult was it to build?

 

Not bad at all! The toughest part was figuring out the placement of the actuator rod in relation to the pivot point to get the stroke of the actuator to match 90 degrees of stroke on the flap. Probably 6 hours total, bought the T3 adapter flange online though.

 

Looks great!

 

are there plans somewhere?

 

No plans really, looked at pics online and went from there. You do need a 2nd gen setup, undivided manifold, and divided exhaust housing for it to work. I had Steedspeed purpose build me a manifold that was undivided in anticipation of installing this valve.

 

the valve and shaft are incolnel right?

 

No they are 304. As 304 is rated for 1697 F continuous duty, I felt comfortable using it. I'm not a metal properties guru, so what would be the inconel advantage in this application?

 

Yeah I can't wait! Haven't had it on the dyno yet.

 

if you built it like the sdx one you could have used a divided manifold

 

Don't have the space for something of that size. It would create huge fitment issues.

 

i believe they are 1.5" thick, how thick is the spacer you used? I'd like to build myself one using one of stainless diesel's wastegate plates & kill two birds with one stone to help out my billet 66

 

Mine is 1/2" thick.

 

Do you have a drive pressure gauge?

 

No, but excessive DP would translate directly to egt's which aren't higher than before. Also it's fully open at 14 psi.

 

How much for one in a strictly T3 footprint?

 

You want me to make you one? You can get them from Sound Performance in T3, T4 or T6 for around $500.00 or so. There is no room for it on a 3rd gen setup, The turbo will hit the motor mount.

 

Theirs looks a lot thicker than a 1/2". And I will be getting a second gen mani soon.

 

I think theirs is 3/4". Not sure if there's an advantage to that or not. I just wanted it all to be as compact as possible for install ease. Aren't most 2nd gen manifolds T4?

 

no u can get almost any second gen manifold in a t3

 

stock is T3. you can get T3, T4, T6.

 

Any chance you have a parts list you could share? How much do you have into it if you don't mind my asking? (Trying to figure out if it would be worth building to save money or not)

 

Sure, the T3 flange in 304 stainless was $40.00, the shaft is 3/16" 304, the flap is 1/8" 304 flat bar, the actuator was $79.00. The bar holding the actuator is 1/4" steel welded to a 1/2" x 1 3/4" washer. Then the misc. hardware to assemble. This one I had a buddy TIG the flap to the shaft, but if I did it again I'd go to a 1/4" shaft and mill the center to 1/8" to accept the flat bar and use some grade 8 bolts, so it could be disassembled if need be. Probably have about 6 hours in the project plus pulling the turbo and installing. The one thing I did do was make 4 M10 studs to thread into the manifold first, then slide everything back on. This made life really simple.

 

So it sounds like it was well under $200 bucks in parts ... that might just be worth making when I get the second gen setup haha.

 

I wouldnt bolt the flap on, anything that can potentially come loose in the turbine is bad.

 

You're probably right... the other guys look like they're bolted in place.

 

Nice setup. Thanks for pics!

 

No problem, this valve lights the turbo so fast now, I just ordered a 66/74/.91 T4, and selling the Special. Going to make another one in a T4-T3 adapter.

 

I definitely think you could start your own little side business here ... just saying.

 

Did you just drill out the the spacer for the valve shaft or did you press in a bushing?

 

I was wondering the same thing?

 

did you order a box BW 66 or get a billet wheel in it? are you having the exhaust flange machined down to an hx40 flange?

 

Regular S366/74/.91 divided non billet, I'm not 100% sold on the billet advantage...yet! And yes the outlet is being machined down for HX40.