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Without cold flow improver, how long does it take for wax crystals to thaw once temperatures rise above the cloud point?
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'06/4X4/48RE/Aero 4040XL/PSM Air Intake/Cool Hose/Turbo Air Guide/GDP Big Line/GDP Air Boss/GDP Power-Flo/Bilstein/Fluidampr/MAG-HYTEC/Amsoil By-Pass Filter/2 micron fuel filter/Trany spin-on filter/Coolant Filter/"Jesus Christ is still the KING"
Depends on the amount of fuel in the tank. It takes a while to raise the temperature of a full tank about 55gal of fuel but doesn't take long to raise the temp of say 5 or 10 gallons.
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'05 auto w/TransGo S06-POD, 6 gauges, MBRP, AFEstg2, ADII (BF1212+1R-0751)
Carli track bar, BJs, Upper/Lower SS & 5160 shocks
Kore Coils, DSS, Deaver mini pack,
It will also depend how high the temperature goes. If it is only 5 degrees above or 25 degrees above the cloudpoint it will determine how quickly it warms up.
if it's in the tank, and you have a torpedo heater, place it about 4 feed behind the truck and let it heat the underside of the truck. I had to do it one morning, wound up being 2 hours late for work.
But it seriously depends on the amount of fuel that's gelled, and the temperature differential between the two.
Thanks everyone for your replies. What you’re saying makes sense. I was under the impression that once the fuel turned into wax crystals that it would take high heat and lots of time to thaw. The reason why I'm asking is because I live in the high desert (7,000 feet) where night time temperatures drop down real low but the day time temperatures go right back up.
Here’s the norm:
Fall (+15 t0 +30’s for the Night LOW and +60’s to +70’s for the Day HIGH
Winter (-20 to +20) for the Night LOW and +30’s t0 +50’s for the Day HIGH
Spring (+20’s to +30’s for the Night LOW and +60’s to +70’s for the Day HIGH
I'm trying to decide if I should start adding a fuel additive with our night tempersatures dropping into the +20's.
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'06/4X4/48RE/Aero 4040XL/PSM Air Intake/Cool Hose/Turbo Air Guide/GDP Big Line/GDP Air Boss/GDP Power-Flo/Bilstein/Fluidampr/MAG-HYTEC/Amsoil By-Pass Filter/2 micron fuel filter/Trany spin-on filter/Coolant Filter/"Jesus Christ is still the KING"
Up here it will start to gel about -40, it's pretty much make sure the truck was plugged in, you used antigel and let the truck circulate fuel for about 15min+ before driving it.
The nice thing with the fuel canister is you can pull the top off and add some antigel into it instead of waiting for it to try to make it's way through the tank pump and to the engine which will only work if it's warmer and you don't kill the battery trying to start it.
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2006 2500 auto QCLB, 4" TBE with Flo-pro muffler, EFILive by Anarchy Diesel, Bilstein 5100, 295 70 17 RF10 Kooks
I noticed you have ( bio diesel ) as an avatar. If thats what your running in your truck then. That starts to gel at a much warmer temp then ulsd.
Very true; however, I only run enough biodiesel to help with lubricity (B2).
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'06/4X4/48RE/Aero 4040XL/PSM Air Intake/Cool Hose/Turbo Air Guide/GDP Big Line/GDP Air Boss/GDP Power-Flo/Bilstein/Fluidampr/MAG-HYTEC/Amsoil By-Pass Filter/2 micron fuel filter/Trany spin-on filter/Coolant Filter/"Jesus Christ is still the KING"
Very true; however, I only run enough biodiesel to help with lubricity (B2).
I run B20 all the time, I only run antigel when the temp drops below 32 degrees. Ive done this for years and been ok so far. On a side note I have only gelled up once, and that was when the temp was -10 through -20 with a windchill of -30, I left the truck unplugged as usual in the driveway but didnt drive it for a week and I had standadyne antigel in the tank, truck gelled up and wouldnt run.
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2012 2500 CTD HO, Dual coolers, snow plow/cold weather prep, Line x, PPE 5inch tip, Bak Flip F1, Mopar fender flares, Husky mud flaps, Weather tech mats, Valvoline PBE/Donaldson filter, vision x light bar, Mag Hytec rear diff cover, Thuren overland suspension.
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