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I need to replace the brake pads on my truck. I am considering cross drilled rotors and pads. Does anyone have a suggestion on what brand and were to get?
I'm personally pretty found of the perfomance friction pads. They seem to stop better and last longer than any other brand I have tried. I buy them at autozone and they have a lifetime warrenty.
George
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1997 2500 ext cab long bed 4x4 Boost control elbow, BHAF, KDP tabbed, 3k gsk kit, dodgezilla hybrid turbo, Z-series gauges, 47RE built w/valve body & converter, #100 plate.
Cross drilled rotors supposedly have a much higher chance of cracking than regular rotors. What you may want to do is look into slotted rotors instead of cross drilled. Look at Summit Racing's catalog-I think they actually have some slotted rotors that fit our trucks-
HTH
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2006 2500 CTD Quad Cab Short Box Big Horn 4X4
2" KORE leveling kit, 35" Mickey Thompson MTZs on MT Classic II Wheels
Autometer Pyro, Boost, FP, Oil Pressure, Tranny TempTranny Work by Wally and Ollie at FTE
I think on our heavy trucks sloted would be your best bet. Cross drilled rotors on our heavy trucks have a much higher chance of cracking. espechaly if you are towing and go thrugh a puttle or they get wet when there hot.
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FOR SALE: 00 2500 4x4 5spd, Balanced&blueprinted, Rings&Studs CR Head W/P&P, All ARP, HD Big Stick, 110# Valve springs, Coated pistons & bearings, S&B, Intake horn, Header, 5" TB, Edge J W/A HOT,GT3788R, 120HP stix,FASS,ValAir DD,Fluidamper.
They do discapate heat faster. But thay are also not as strong. There is less surface ariea. You get them real hot and they will start cracking between the holes.
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FOR SALE: 00 2500 4x4 5spd, Balanced&blueprinted, Rings&Studs CR Head W/P&P, All ARP, HD Big Stick, 110# Valve springs, Coated pistons & bearings, S&B, Intake horn, Header, 5" TB, Edge J W/A HOT,GT3788R, 120HP stix,FASS,ValAir DD,Fluidamper.
Yeah where the cracks start to form is around the drill holes. Drilling weakens the surface of the rotor because there's not as much mass to the rotor surface, yet it still has to "stop" a truck of the same weight.
It's sort of like trying to suspend something heavy with a piece of paper-if the piece of paper's complete (no holes, no tears), it can hold a fair amount of weight above it. But once you start punching holes in the piece of paper, any weight you put on it makes it tear a lot easier. When it comes to cross-drilled brake rotors, this means
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2006 2500 CTD Quad Cab Short Box Big Horn 4X4
2" KORE leveling kit, 35" Mickey Thompson MTZs on MT Classic II Wheels
Autometer Pyro, Boost, FP, Oil Pressure, Tranny TempTranny Work by Wally and Ollie at FTE
Problem solved!
This is a materials problem. Regular rotors are made from gray steel, which is weak crappy steal. Some spin offs of cross drilled rotors are just regular gray steel with holes; i could see gray steel cracking cause its junk metal, but not a set of rotors from EBC Brembo Bear etc cracking...
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03 2500 SLT, more candy than a pedophile's van
I would go with a set of slotted/dimpled rotors and some good bendix semi-metallic pads. as far as brand for the rotors i have no idea im not much of a brake man i got my rotors of ebay they work real nice made a noticable difference.
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1999 2500 ext. cab 4x4, auto., 4:10 gears. Currently under construction build thread coming soon POWERED BY: FARM BOYS DIESEL
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I think on our heavy trucks sloted would be your best bet. Cross drilled rotors on our heavy trucks have a much higher chance of cracking. espechaly if you are towing and go thrugh a puttle or they get wet when there hot.
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