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Welcome to the Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum, the fastest growing Dodge Diesel Community on the internet. You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today! If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us |
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#1 (permalink) |
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Cummins Fan
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Sumter, SC
Posts: 86
Thanks: 3
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
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Ball Joints
I have searched the threads and cant find wut im looking for. How hard is it to change the ball joints urself? Do they have to b pressed in and out? The shop i went to wants to charge me $700 to change them. To me thats sounds like to much. Any info will help. TIA.
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2003 Black 2500 4x4, Regency Package 3 in lift, 285/70 17s, 4 in. straight pipe. workin on the rest. Strobes, LED's and Siren.
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#3 (permalink) |
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One step at a time
![]() Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Western Pennsylvania
Posts: 537
Thanks: 1
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
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They are a pain but if you know how to work on things you should be ok, First take off the brake caliper and rotor I usually bungee the caliper up out of the way. Then there is 4 bolts that come thru the back of the wheel bearing that you have to take out. Take them all out but the one closest to the frame on the firewall side, loosen it up so its almost out put a socket and extension on that bolt head and line it up with the frame. Start the truck and turn the wheel to pop loose the wheel bearing. Once the wheel bearing is removed you can slide out the axle and start the ball joints. It is a pain but I change all 4 in about 2 hours here in the rust belt.
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2006 Ram 2500 QC SB 6 Speed 4X4 Smarty, High Ram intake, Silverline turbo back, AEM Workhorse, Auto Meter Fuel, Boost, EGT, South Bend DD, Fluidamper, Kore HP. Airdog 150. |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Harley27 For This Useful Post: | AF-firfighter89 (11-04-2009) |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Cummins Fan
Join Date: May 2009
Location: TN
Posts: 88
Thanks: 13
Thanked 9 Times in 8 Posts
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Ball joints
I replaced mine myself. If u can get the hub off then everything thing else should be easy. Yes the ball joints are pressed in. Heres a thread on replacement DIY Ball Joint Replacement - DodgeForum.com
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06 2500 4X4 Qcab Auto torque tube gutted, cat & muffler delete, afe drop in, modified intake |
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| The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Groundshaker For This Useful Post: | AF-firfighter89 (11-04-2009), ynots57 (11-01-2009) |
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#5 (permalink) |
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One step at a time
![]() Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Western Pennsylvania
Posts: 537
Thanks: 1
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Also I like to use Spicer ball joints, lifetime warranty and no goofy setup like Moogs uppers. Ball joints alone will be around 400 bucks
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2006 Ram 2500 QC SB 6 Speed 4X4 Smarty, High Ram intake, Silverline turbo back, AEM Workhorse, Auto Meter Fuel, Boost, EGT, South Bend DD, Fluidamper, Kore HP. Airdog 150. |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Cummins Fan
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Sumter, SC
Posts: 86
Thanks: 3
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
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Thnx for the info guys. I appreciate it. Do u think $700 sounds right?
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2003 Black 2500 4x4, Regency Package 3 in lift, 285/70 17s, 4 in. straight pipe. workin on the rest. Strobes, LED's and Siren.
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#7 (permalink) |
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Cummins Fan
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Rio Rancho, NM
Posts: 90
Thanks: 1
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
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For all 4 for parts and labor it sounds about right.
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06 3500 SLT QC long bed 4x4 w/ Leveling kit & 285/70/17 BFG KM2's 3.73 gears. Flow Pro muffler / no cat. Pusher intake manifold. True cold air intake. Edge Insight. Powerslot rotors. Smarty JR. Gabriel Max Control shocks. |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Cummins Fan
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Sumter, SC
Posts: 86
Thanks: 3
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
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That was jus for the uppers. Not the lowers
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2003 Black 2500 4x4, Regency Package 3 in lift, 285/70 17s, 4 in. straight pipe. workin on the rest. Strobes, LED's and Siren.
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#9 (permalink) |
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Newbie
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I did mine last year. It was a PIA but it was worth the time because the stealership wanted $1800 per side. Just be very careful with the wheel hub not to mess up the bearing otherwise you have to replace it completely as a unit. I bought the parts from NAPA and also changed out the axle u-joints while I was in there. I bought all with grease zerks. Just take your time and use a ball joint press tool kit. That was the first time I have ever done them and I could do them in about 2 hours now.
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#10 (permalink) | |
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Cummins Nut
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Northwest Ohio
Posts: 368
Thanks: 2
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
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Quote:
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2003 2500 BD Super Special ,DDP150s, II Stg3 CP3, AirDog 150, ARP Studs, Smarty TNT, DiPricol- Py Boo RP, Whilley's Whislter, 6in miter cut, Capped Rail, Boost Fooler,Built Tranny, 285 Firestone Destinations, MPM TC
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#11 (permalink) |
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Cummins Fan
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Vancouver, British Columbia
Posts: 46
Thanks: 3
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
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Dana ball joints seem to be a comprable but more cost effective alternative to the Moogs. It took my mechanic 1.5days, bloody nuckles and new sware word combinations to get my driver side uppers and lowers done. the damage was 500bones taxes in plus a case of beer for his percerverence.
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2004 2500 Sport. 6spd. 4x4 Quad Cab |
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