Preventative Mods..

[briguchis]

Glad to hear you're using this: I plan to keep it much more aggressively up-to-date than has been the case in the past, but don't hesitate to let me know if you find errors or need clarifications.

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La caisse epargne fr | Caisse epargne caisse d'epargne | www caisse epargne

[CD in NM]

Originally Posted by Hockeyhauler2500

CD can you tell me more about the upgrade you made to you coolant. And after you installed your by-pass did you get any funny smells like a burnt plastic or oil smell toward the front of the motor. I have a burning smell like that and can only find some smoke coming from the crank case tube. which I have been told is normal.

The upgrade I made to my coolant system was the Opie bypass. It is not a filtering system, it is a pressure regulating system for the rear two cylinders. It does a couple very important things. First it takes the coolant from the #5 and #6 cylinder and re-routes it to the outflow side of the thermostat and dumps it into the radiator hose - bypassing the thermostat. When you run on say a cold start before the t-stat opens, the pressure of the coolant flow is greater as your rpm's increase, the pressure in the rear cylinders is basically unbalanced in comparison to your other cylinders because the rear cylinders heat up the coolant faster due to less air flow around the engine in the back against the firewall. I guess you could call that area of the engine more heat soaked. As the coolant heats up, it can boil back there and produce steam in the block, the pressure can cause you to blow the rear freeze plug at the back of the block. Many here have had that problem happen, have installed a more secure freeze plug that bolts a plate over the freeze plug, but that really doesn't do much to deal with the underlying issues happening in those two cylinders. I recall reading an explination from Opie where he discusses the Nucleate Cooling Phase - which is a technical aspect of how coolant functions to remove heat. You could google that and get some really technical information about the process. In simple terms, coolant binds/absorbs to the heat molecules, carrys it to the radiator, as it passes through the fins, it dissipates/breaks the binding of the heat, then continues to repeat the process, over and over. The area in/around our #5 and #6 cylinders runs hotter than the other cylinders, in fact the coolant in that area actually boils and creates steam in the block. It is the steam expansion that pressurizes the block there and causes the freeze plug to pop.

So, the Opie serves to circulate the pressurized coolant as the rpm's increase past an unopened t-stat, and then it also circulates the higher heated coolant into the radiator faster that it would normaly travel via the in-block channels.

I am in no way stating all the technical information to it's complete relationship as to why the Opie bypass is a good idea in a preserving mod. But then, from my poor dexplination, you certainly get the idea as to why it is an important mod.

I tow, tow heavy, and tow in a climate that is for the most part ALWAYS hotter than other parts of the country. So, I saw the Opie as an important part of the longevity problem, but more so as a means to possibly help to curb the meltdowns in the rear cylinders due to the blocks restrictive coolant flow, and also to the way that the thermostat also contributes to the restrictions. I like the fact that the Opie kit dumps way downline into the radiator hose where a greater volume of area in the hose flow exists.

CD

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2006 Dodge 3500 SLT MC, 6-spd, 3.73 L/S, 4x4, SRW. ISSPRO gauges, Opie, Ice Box,Blue Hose,GDP intake horn,Fab Shop Header, PacBrake,ME. Amsoil BMK-11, GDP 2-micron-big lines. KORE Leveling, MaxxLinks, DefiantSS and shield, RideRites, Helwig Sway,H2's/BFG315's,MagHytek-F/R. Road Armor-Mile Marker, RanchHand HeadacheRack and rear bumper, PopUp GN, Prodigy, Galaxy DX94HP-Wilson 1K roofmount.

[CD in NM]

Originally Posted by Loveday Electric

Also I am interested in figuring out how to test my oil. I am searching and am not finding anything. Need some help thanks

You can get oil testing kits from Amsoil, also from Genos Garage (that's where I get mine), or from Blackstone Labs. There are probably more testing labs out there, but those are the ones that seem to be the most widely used.

I chose to use the Genos test kit, costs about $15, but the labs doing these kits when you mail them in are Fleetguard labs - Monitor Labs, the most widely used labs for oil testing. When you buy the kits, they are pre-paid, all you have beyond the cost of them is the postage to get then to them. I have sent a couple tests into Blackstone and also Monitor Labs at the same time, same oil being tested, to see if there were differences in their final imformation, both companies provided the same information results. The Monitor kits are the most cost effective/easy on the wallet.

CD

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2006 Dodge 3500 SLT MC, 6-spd, 3.73 L/S, 4x4, SRW. ISSPRO gauges, Opie, Ice Box,Blue Hose,GDP intake horn,Fab Shop Header, PacBrake,ME. Amsoil BMK-11, GDP 2-micron-big lines. KORE Leveling, MaxxLinks, DefiantSS and shield, RideRites, Helwig Sway,H2's/BFG315's,MagHytek-F/R. Road Armor-Mile Marker, RanchHand HeadacheRack and rear bumper, PopUp GN, Prodigy, Galaxy DX94HP-Wilson 1K roofmount.

[CD in NM]

[quote=OCVeloMan;2214193]Honestly, I am now VERY interested in these bypass systems. I was jus ton AMSOIL's website... How do you know which system to get? Do i need one with a free-flow filter attached or should i buy the single remote unit and throw an Amsoil filter on my existing free flow filter location?



When I installed my Amsoil Bypass, the part number for it was BMK-11. It is a single bypass filter that takes off the stock filter housing, there is a plug you remove. I also bought the billet cap return and the 90* fitting. I believe they have changed the part number to BMK-21 for the bypass system, the other parts are the same numbers. I would have to look them up, but I also believe you just have to put your truck information into their system and the give you the part numbers.

Prior to my year model, some of the trucks were using their Amsoil dual remotes, but they encountered oil pressure problems, that is why Amsoil went to the single filter.

I use a Fleetguard Stratapore oil filter in the stock filter housing. Amsoil makes a replacement filter to fit the stock housing as well.


CD

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2006 Dodge 3500 SLT MC, 6-spd, 3.73 L/S, 4x4, SRW. ISSPRO gauges, Opie, Ice Box,Blue Hose,GDP intake horn,Fab Shop Header, PacBrake,ME. Amsoil BMK-11, GDP 2-micron-big lines. KORE Leveling, MaxxLinks, DefiantSS and shield, RideRites, Helwig Sway,H2's/BFG315's,MagHytek-F/R. Road Armor-Mile Marker, RanchHand HeadacheRack and rear bumper, PopUp GN, Prodigy, Galaxy DX94HP-Wilson 1K roofmount.

[OCVeloMan]

[quote=CD in NM;2215027]

Originally Posted by OCVeloMan

Honestly, I am now VERY interested in these bypass systems. I was jus ton AMSOIL's website... How do you know which system to get? Do i need one with a free-flow filter attached or should i buy the single remote unit and throw an Amsoil filter on my existing free flow filter location?



When I installed my Amsoil Bypass, the part number for it was BMK-11. It is a single bypass filter that takes off the stock filter housing, there is a plug you remove. I also bought the billet cap return and the 90* fitting. I believe they have changed the part number to BMK-21 for the bypass system, the other parts are the same numbers. I would have to look them up, but I also believe you just have to put your truck information into their system and the give you the part numbers.

Prior to my year model, some of the trucks were using their Amsoil dual remotes, but they encountered oil pressure problems, that is why Amsoil went to the single filter.

I use a Fleetguard Stratapore oil filter in the stock filter housing. Amsoil makes a replacement filter to fit the stock housing as well.


CD

Thanks, that's a huge help!

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2006 - Mega Cab Laramie 4x4, KORE-TGC-Bilstein Suspension, Ultra 17" Nitto 315/70/17, AMSOIL BMK-21+FullFlow+Syn, Pioneer Audio
My Build Thread w/ Pics

[bheath26]

Originally Posted by CD in NM

ME - muffler elimination pipe. I kept the cat, the cat backpressure is just a couple pounds, nothing like the muffler backpressure, and my truck is still EPA legal, that's just TOO big of an issue and the fines are off the charts. The ME pipe is the same one that Genos sells. IT was real easy to remove the muffler and install the elimination pipe.

CD

CD with the muffler elimination pipe did you keep the stock 3 in exhaust?

[CD in NM]

bheath26.

The stock exhaust on my 2006 is 4in. Yes, I kept the stock exhaust. Well, except for the stock exhaust manifold, I replaced it with an aftermarket stainless header from The Fab Shop.

CD

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2006 Dodge 3500 SLT MC, 6-spd, 3.73 L/S, 4x4, SRW. ISSPRO gauges, Opie, Ice Box,Blue Hose,GDP intake horn,Fab Shop Header, PacBrake,ME. Amsoil BMK-11, GDP 2-micron-big lines. KORE Leveling, MaxxLinks, DefiantSS and shield, RideRites, Helwig Sway,H2's/BFG315's,MagHytek-F/R. Road Armor-Mile Marker, RanchHand HeadacheRack and rear bumper, PopUp GN, Prodigy, Galaxy DX94HP-Wilson 1K roofmount.

[bheath26]

Is the 2007 5.9l 4in then?

[CD in NM]

The exhaust system in the early 2007's should be the same as the 2006, there were very few changes between those two model years. I think the changes for the early 2007's were mostly interior and tail lights. The later 2007.5's got the new computer ECM system and the 6.7L engine, a differently geared G-56 tranny, and also a change to the auto tranny's - however, I am not sure what that change was since I pay little attention to the autos due to having a standard tranny in my truck.

CD

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2006 Dodge 3500 SLT MC, 6-spd, 3.73 L/S, 4x4, SRW. ISSPRO gauges, Opie, Ice Box,Blue Hose,GDP intake horn,Fab Shop Header, PacBrake,ME. Amsoil BMK-11, GDP 2-micron-big lines. KORE Leveling, MaxxLinks, DefiantSS and shield, RideRites, Helwig Sway,H2's/BFG315's,MagHytek-F/R. Road Armor-Mile Marker, RanchHand HeadacheRack and rear bumper, PopUp GN, Prodigy, Galaxy DX94HP-Wilson 1K roofmount.

[slowmover]

Originally Posted by Loveday Electric

Also I am interested in figuring out how to test my oil. I am searching and am not finding anything. Need some help thanks

You are best with an independent analyst, IMO.

I have used Terry for a number of years and am among many who can recommend him and his services highly:

dyson ANALYSIS

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2004.0 2WD 305/555 NV-5600/3.73 QC/LB. Stock but for Leer topper, Aeroturbine 4040 [resonator] & Rokktech Silent Might [muffler]. 155,000 miles/3,922 hours @ 40 mph; 19 city/24 hwy logged [all miles at 1700-1900 rpm]; 7,460# scaled.

[crimbshaw188]

how are you guys doing your sampling?

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06/QC/LB/Bullydog/straight pipe/leveled/kmc monsters/k&n CAI/

[loggermc]

CD:

You mention that you don't want to run afoul of your 100,000 mile warranty. Were you able to determine before you did the individual mods whether they would impair your warranty. I only have 46,000 miles on my 2007 5.9L and would like to do some of the same mods, but am worried that if I ever had engine problems, the mods would be used by the dealership to void my warranty. Any thoughts?

Thanks