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The problem I'm running into is that everytime I plug in my truck, I trip the ground fault on one of the sockets in series with the one I'm using. I was wondering if anyone knew what the resistance was across the block warmer. I'm hoping that it is the socket (b/c I'm currently renting), but want to make sure that I don't have a short somewhere within my block warmer. I'd truly appreciate it if someone could use a multimeter to tell me what a properly functioning system reads (for resistance).
Thanks in advance guys, I'm also open to any other suggestions on how to troubleshoot the issue.
Go to a friends house and plug the truck in. See if it trips their breaker. Also, try running a long extension cord from a different wall outlet, if possible. That might also show it tripping a different breaker which would lead me to believe you need higher breakers in the place for your truck.
Scott - 2005 2500, GONE. it was a good truck
Thanks for all the input guys! I'll definately try an alternate outlet, I am however still curious as to what the resistance is of the internal heating coil is.
The other thing is that I've used this plug previously to plug my bock heater in... now you can visually see a large arc when plugging the extension in (obviously when the ground fault has been reset).
A standard ground fault outlet usually will NOT support a block heater. Lots of new construction are placing them on the front of the house garage etc, and they are wired in series with another...usually on the side or back of the house. If anything else is plugged in, it will trip, and most times the block heater alone will trip them. Definately not the truck in my opinion....the longer the cord the bigger the problem as well. Try to find a non-fault outlet (inside the garage) to try. My truck will trip them every time!
2008 MegaCab 3500 Laramie Auto, Not STOCK Anymore.......
I have my Dodge and my Ford previously plugged in to a GFI, and it has never tripped when the trucks were plugged in. I test all my GFI's annually, just before the holidays when my wife is getting ready to hang all the lights.
Tonight I will try different outlets off a different breaker...
Here is the current set up; Outlet #1 (from the breaker box) is the outlet with the GFI, Outlet #2 (in series with #1) is on the ceiling and supplies power to the garage door opener, and finally outlet #3 is a wall outlet that I have the truck plugged in to (this is the final outlet in the series of three).
Does anyone know what amperage draw needed is to activate the switch on the GFI? I don't think that the garage door opener and truck should exceed this but I'm not an electrical engineer either.
A gfci trips around 5 milliamps of imbalanced current between the grounded conductor and the current carrying conductor. It most likely not a problem with current but an actual ground fault somewhere, moisture in the cord or cap etc...
What AWG/Gauge wire is this extension cord?
you could be getting too much of a drop across *high resistance* the cord causing the system to draw a lot more amps, thus poping the GF outlet.
all new houses have to have a GF outlet on the outside to pass inspection.
03 2500 SLT, more candy than a pedophile's van
A GFCI receptacle is designed to trip on a fault current which is an imbalance between the hot and neutral not on overcurrent which would trip the overcurrent device (Circuit breaker) normally. There could also be problems in the (house) circuit that could cause this. Such as; the neutral on the load receptacle being wired on the wrong side of the gfci device or some other device between the two on the hot or neutral only. That could make it look like a fault either way it's a problem.
Edit For safety concerns - if your block heater is tripping the GFCI there a problem somewhere either with the heater, the heater cord, the extension cord, the gfci or the circuit in the house which is a serious hazard. I would rather see the GFCI working and trip rather than being electrocuted unplugging my rig some morning.
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