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I'm getting ready to do my wheel bearings, and I've been worried by all the reports of frozen shafts/hubs.
Why not start by removing the shaft nut first, squirt some penetrating oil in, then reattach the nut a turn or so loose. Put in a cotter pin, then drive a little bit?
Obviously, you'd want a nice deserted road, preferably a little bumpy. You wouldn't want to drive far. I would think it would loosen up the hubs on the shafts.
Have complete frontend jacked up so tires off the ground. The quickest way is to take everything off to get to the hubs. Then just loosen the 4 hub bolts, about 1/2 way. Then take a socket with an extension and place it so it just hits against the front frame or somewhere close to that. Start motor, turn steering wheel one way to take up the tension and slightly pull a little harder, then move socket and extension to another bolt and turn wheels the other way. Keep doing this back and forth a few times and with the pressure being placed turning the wheels, it will start to pop the hub off. Just take your time and go slow. You don't need to turn the wheel much to get it to start.
Helps having 2 people, 1 to hold socket and extension until it hits on the frame or some place.
My hubs were off within 10 minutes doing it this way without doing any damage to bolts, frame or anything.
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Scott - 2005 2500, GONE. it was a good truck
I've heard alot about that technique, but I'm leery of applying force that way. A puller doesn't apply outward force on the driveshaft like the power steering trick. If the wheel is turned while applying pressure, then the driveshaft is being forced forward or backward against the outer driveshaft bearing (assuming there is an outer bearing, I don't know).
Anyway, probably the forces involved are minor, but why take a chance?
If you drive with the hub nut loose your hub bearing will separate. probably ruin it. For what its worth, Ive never had the shaft freeze in the hub, just the hub into the knuckle
Are you sure? Looking in the bore of the new hub I see a solid piece. Anyway, good info. I thought that the hub froze on the shaft. I'll find out soon enough anyway.
Im speaking from experience on the previous generation trucks, but i find it hard to believe that they switched to a radically different bearing in the 3rd gens. the hub nut and stub shaft are what holds the bearing together. if you try to drive without either you will have catastrophic results
I agree, the socket trick works..I used it myself..but I soaked it with PB Blaster First..the second one was extremely easy as I bought a hub puller and used the socket trick with the hub puller applying pressure..it actually took like less than half the pressure on the power steering...good luck
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2004 2500 4X4 Mag-Hytec Tranny Pan, Frantz TP Filter, Coolant Filter, MBRP 4" TBE with FTE Resonator, Raptor100 with WS and 2 Mic Filter also in box, XRF Ball Joints and All 4 Tie Rods
IAFF LOCAL 142
(Professional Firefighter)
Zep 45 and "rotating" the hub vs trying to beat it out turned a 4 hour job for the passengers side into a 5 min job on the drivers side. ZEP 45 is amazing stuff, that and hitting the hub on its side to get it to rotate around the spindle and loosen it up worked wonders for me.
When I did the front inner axel seals two weeks ago removing the whole assembly was not as big of a hurtle as some had made it out to be. Using the power steering is definitely an option however mine came out with the use of a rubber persuasion instruement (Hammer). Good luck!!
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Arnie 04.5 325-600 3500 4x4 CCLB Predator Diablo Sport Pac-brake exhaust brake air bags cab controls AEM HD Brute Force CAI Curt Q-5 20k fifth Al's Liner in bed Rockers and AliAcr front bumper yet to be done
When I did the front inner axel seals two weeks ago removing the whole assembly was not as big of a hurtle as some had made it out to be. Using the power steering is definitely an option however mine came out with the use of a rubber persuasion instruement (Hammer). Good luck!!
some have issues and some dont. I remember the first time I removed a bearing from my 95 1/2 ton. Hope i never have another experience that frustrating in my life
most times its how much salt the road crews use in the winter...or lack of winter as well is always good..I dont have that "happiness"
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2004 2500 4X4 Mag-Hytec Tranny Pan, Frantz TP Filter, Coolant Filter, MBRP 4" TBE with FTE Resonator, Raptor100 with WS and 2 Mic Filter also in box, XRF Ball Joints and All 4 Tie Rods
IAFF LOCAL 142
(Professional Firefighter)
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