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Steering shimmy

2K views 15 replies 3 participants last post by  PWTurboProps 
#1 ·
I recently noticed a steering wheel shimmy that I can't connect to anything happening to the truck, I just noticed a shimmy that increases and decreases with speed. Last time my old truck (a Ranger) did that it was a bent axle after a tee-bone when a girl ran a red arrow and struck a rear wheel. Haven't had an alignment in awhile but if I have some repairs to do it would be better to not waste $75+ until after. I only have a big floor jack and two jack stands that are rated for the Dodge, but I figured one thing to try would be to elevate all four and let them spin and see if one wobbles. But the thought of the truck in gear while on Jack stands kinda makes me envision my garage suddenly becoming a drive through. Any idea for self diagnosis? Or should I find a good shop?
More info, front wheels are recently balanced but even at extremely low speed, while just getting going I feel the steering wheel start moving back and forth and it becomes a fast shimmy as speed picks up. It's not intense but it's there. It also vears right.
Hopefully this does not turn into another money meal for the truck, I'm still trying to save for the transmission rebuild.

Many thanks.
 
#2 ·
I assume you have a 4x4. Could be a unit bearing going bad or a u joint seizing up. I had a u joint seize and it didn't let the axleshafts move freely, especially when turning. If the unit bearing is bad, it could also cause a wobbly sensation. Jack the front of the truck up and grab the wheel/tire and at 3:00 and 9:00 and try to move it. If there is play, the bearing is done. You can usually tell if the u joint is seizing because you will see rust around the caps.

While it is jacked up, you might as well check the ball joints. Grab the wheel/tire at the top and bottom and try to rock it. if it moves this way, your ball joints are getting slop.
 
#3 ·
Sig changed to include 4X4.

Thanks for the tips. I'll try them out as soon as I get a chance.
 
#4 ·
This is where the play is, both sides



Pushing/pulling at 3&9 as well as shimmying only moved the steering. Putting my hands at 12 and pushing pulling I could hear see and feel the play in this upper swivel...on both sides??? :confused013:

It doesn't seem right that the top of the wheels would have that much play, but it also seems weird that they both are doing it, not to mention my shimmy follows the speed of the truck. Would play like this cause more of a vibration?

The universal bearings are rust colored all over so I have a hard time telling if they are bad just by looking at them but here's a picture of them too.







More info; it pulls to the right and the shimmy seems to go away when the steering moves to the right to about 1:00. When I pull back to keep it straight I have to hold it at about 11:30 and I get the shimmy. Like I said, it's rythmic and varies with speed.
 
#5 ·
best way to check the ball joints get the front tire off the ground enough to get a pry bar under it, pry up while watching the ball joint you should have no play at all, if you're getting play with your hands at 12 and 6 your hub bearings are going bad, if your going to replace any of the mentioned replace the axle u joints while your in there. bad u joints on the drive shaft will make cause the feeling you described also
 
#6 ·
The top swivel you are tslking about is your upper ball joint, and yes the top will go bad before the bottom. If you are pushing up and in at the top(12:00) of the tire while holding the bottom(6:00), and that has play, it is time to replace. It sucks to do, but can be done at home with the right tools. It sounds like your unit bearings may be ok. You can check them more closely when the ball joints are getting done and the wheel is off. If they squeal or feel rough or like they are grinding while you rotate, they could be ready too. It would make sense to replace your axle shafts u joints while it is apart. If they aren't bad, they will be soon enough. It is just part of the deal with these trucks.
 
#7 ·
So in short, it would make sense to replace the upper ball joints, the u-joints and the unit bearings since they will be accessible anyway.

We could be talking upgrade time if that's the case. Don't manual front hubs come with most of these parts?

At any rate it looks like I have some pricing to do.

I swear this truck does not want to let me fix it. While trying to save up for a transmission rebuild since it limps like a 3 legged dog, My AC blend doors stopped working so I started looking into that, my radiator cracked so I changed everything down to the water pump, my bed and rear bumper were toast so I have a steel tube job in the works.

My garage is literally a staging area for half finished Dodge projects that are on hold due to something else breaking.
 
#8 ·
Can anyone recommend a place besides Dodge for the pieces-parts for this kind of stuff?
 
#9 ·
If you have the means, then, sure, change the ball joints(top and bottom), unit bearing(hub), and axles shaft u joints. Make sure to get greasable ball joints. There are different hub assemblies available, but I doubt they actually come with ball joints or u-joints as a kit. I am sure somebody may chime in about some that are available. Good luck with it all. By the way, my garage must be similar to yours...
 
#10 ·
Moog

I would presume everyone thinks well of MOOG replacement parts, they have zerks and they are not too expensive.

These gentlemen used MOOG and did the whole front end. Upper and lower ball joints, both u-joints, steering ball joints and steering linkage rods.

All for $300.

The only thing they did not change was the unit bearing. I'm not sure why they found new linkage arms to be necessary so perhaps I could cut that corner and change the unit bearings instead.

Might be time to throw in those leveling springs while I'm there. What's an extra $200 between friends right?...:buttkick:



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gpH0SlYS6YM

 
#11 ·
I think MOOG is still good, but I would do some calling around on pricing. $300 for all that can't be right. The steering linkage rods(Tie rod and drag link) and steering ball joints(tie rod ends) would be over $300 by themselves, I would think. These parts can and will wear out. Get a buddy and have him sit in the truck with it running while you lay in front of it. Have him steer back and forth while you watch the tie rod ends(one on each side where it connects to the knuckle and one at the pitman arm. They will rotate slightly, but they should not have movement like they are trying to pop out of their hole, if that makes sense. Usually, when these are bad it will be more obvious while driving and you hear a clunk as you start to turn. Also, while laying in front of it, look at the track bar. This is a curved bar that attaches to the frame on the driver side and the top of the axle on the passenger side. It keeps the axle centered under the truck. It should not move to the left or right while steering back and forth.

I know it sounds like a ton of stuff could be bad, and it may be, but that is really just part of having an engine that is over 1000 lbs and a big heavy truck.
and yes, if you have all of that torn apart, do your leveling kit(springs or spacers) now.
 
#12 ·
Unless they have a man on the inside the cost of the upper and lower ball joints and u joint bearings alone runs almost $300.

If any of the steering is worn Geno's sells a "Luke's rebuild kit" for all of the steering parts but I have no reason other than the famed Ram steering play to do that right now but it was inexpensive in full Geno's fashion. Too bad they don't sell ball joints.

I'd like to change the unit bearings but I'm not sure they're bad although I'm sure changing them wouldn't hurt. Looks like they sell bearings and races as well as the whole units.

Can anyone recommend a good source for this that may even have a rebuild package or a better deal perhaps? Who should I use. I wanted to do some leveling springs while I'm at it.

If I neglect to change the unit bearings now I may be duplicating work later right? Or is it it doable without removing the units again?
 
#13 ·
Unless they have a man on the inside the cost of the upper and lower ball joints and u joint bearings alone runs almost $300.

If any of the steering is worn Geno's sells a "Luke's rebuild kit" for all of the steering parts but I have no reason other than the famed Ram steering play to do that right now but it was inexpensive in full Geno's fashion. Too bad they don't sell ball joints.
Here's a link to the rebuild kit. Thought's?
Luke's Link Rebuild & Replacement Parts-Geno's Garage

I'd like to change the unit bearings but I'm not sure they're bad although I'm sure changing them wouldn't hurt. Looks like they sell bearings and races as well as the whole units. Units are $150 each and I have not priced bearings yet.

Can anyone recommend a good source for this that may even have a rebuild package or a better deal perhaps? Who should I use. I wanted to do some leveling springs while I'm at it.

If I neglect to change the unit bearings now I may be duplicating work later right? Or is it it doable without removing the units again?
Need some advice on a good source for some of this stuff as well as how much work I should delve into. Can I leave the hubs alone for now or should I change them later? Should I do the rebuild kit on the steering and track bar since I'm doing a 2.5" leveling coil install too.

I can't figure it all out.

Added content.
 
#14 ·


According to Geno's, these bushings can "rebuild" everything in the illustration aside of course from the Big bushing in the Track Bar.

Since I am going ahead and throwing in 2" or 2.5" leveling springs I want that Track Bar solid since it is responsible for the death wobble to my understanding.

So my parts list so far:

Upper and lower Ball Joints for the left and right knuckles since they have play.
$106 per pair for the uppers: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mog-k7460

$100 per pair for the lowers: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mog-k7467

Left and right front u-joints since I suspect that's where the shimmy is comming from. ($84 for the pair)
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mog-464?seid=srese1&gclid=CM7HxZqomr4CFfEDOgodZwQAiw

Track Bar Bushing for $10: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mog-k7252

As well as one of the following for the upper Track Bar $10
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mog-k80777
'03-'07 Dodge Ram Luke's Link Trackbar Bushing Kit-Geno's Garage

I was going to go with one of the following for leveling springs:
Rough country: $180
RCX: Dodge Ram 2500,Ram 3500 4x4 2" Leveling Kit (Diesel Models)
Or TGC progressive rate springs:: $200
TGC: 2.5" 03-13 Dodge Ram 4x4 2500/3500 Diesel Lift Coil Springs

I would get Einbach if I could afford it but $400 is a bit steep right now.

Finally, renting the tool kit and $60-$99 for an alignment when it's all done.

Am I missing anything or does anyone have any thought's, comments or words of wisdom before I proceed?

Thanks.
 
#15 ·
Track Bar Rebush (pics)

Track bar had major play so I went with Luke's Links. Great product $37 from Geno's. There is still a little bit of shimmy that is equal to speed but the death wobble is no more. If you still have rubber bushings I would upgrade to these Poly bushings just out of general principle. Too bad it couldn't be a catch all but the steering play has tightened up and like I said, I went from major wobble to minor shimmy. I'm willing to bet the shimmy was the final nail in the coffin for the already worn out stock bushings. Install was a cinch.. :thumbup:



2 bolts and it's out. One of the bushings fell right out.




The axle end was in better shape. Stock bolts in the background.


To drive out the bushings I used an air hammer to bend it inward and a socket of the right size with a sledge. I backed it up with a huge socket and they came out with ease.


Scotch-Brite, coat hanger and drill to clean out the holes.



Can somebody explain why they do this? When selecting a bolt for a bushing the shank should be the length of the bushing so smooth wears againts smooth. Could dodge not be bothered with this detail?
I tried to find a bolt but none were the right thickness. I ended up putting the stock bolts back in which the bushing manufacturer said to do but I will be on the lookout for a grade 8 bolt with the right length shank so I wont have to think about threads againt bushing. Psh! Freakin' Dodge. :doh:





See the difference? Oxidation aside I would have used this if it was thick enough but it wasn't.





So the truck is safe to drive and I got plenty of tips and support from Luke's Links and Geno's.

I still have a shimmy to hunt down. Since it's propotional to speed that has to mean it could only be certain things like the u-joints, tire balance. Would bad units or unit bearings cause this? I dont think tie-rods ends or ball joints would cause this because it follows speed so closely. Or could it?

It also goes away some when I let it vear to the right like it wants.

Need help troubeshooting this one guys. Thanks for your time. :thumbup:
 
#16 ·
I'm not sure if anyone is even listening anymore but I found the source of the shimmy. It was a bad tire. One of the used ones I purchased. It had a huge bubble right in the tread. Put the spare on and no shimmy. I'm sure the used tire place will refuse to replace their crappy tire but I'm still going to have a chat with them about it and see what they say.

I hope by posting the pictures of the troubleshooting process as well as all the pics installing a site sponsor part and giving my observations gave something back to the forum.

You're all welcome for the "thanks" every time you replied to my post too. :thumbsup:
 
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