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Slight Squeal

2K views 28 replies 8 participants last post by  rdefayette 
#1 ·
Hi All,

I saw an old thread on this topic & wasn't sure if I should just continue that or if I start a new one? If I'm mistaken then hopefully the moderators can simply move the question…

In any I just got my 2006 Ram 2500 and when at the dealer we didn't hear any squealing BUT after a 200 mile drive back home I'm hearing a slight squeal from the front tires *sometimes* when I lightly press the brakes. This goes away if I apply full pressure so I'm unsure if this is a bad pad, etc? I stopped at Firestone on the way home and they charge $20 to take a look etc. I scheduled an appt for Fri & am not concerned about the charge for inspection. However I wanted to check here so as to not get some crazy explanation of why I have to change my brakes, rotors, bearings, etc… In addition if I were to buy some pads, is this something I could change at home? Do I need to resurface the rotors, or that would only be necessary if the pads are worn down to the calipers, etc? Do I have to worry about brake fluid if I change the pads? In short how difficult is the job?

Next, how thick should the pads be new, what is acceptable before changing is necessary? What about simply blowing out the wheels with an air hose, or applying some kind of lubricant, etc?

Just some thoughts, thanks for any advice…
MM
 
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#2 ·
Ooooo. NO LUBE! :shock:

If it is front brakes then you are probably just starting to touch the pad wear indicator doo-hicky. It will often times squeel a bit at light pressure and then quit under harder pressure.

If you have not run the pads all the way down to the rivets than the rotors should be ok still. Changing pads is pretty easy if you have a few tools. I'm sure there are dozens of youtubes on the subject.

Cool that btw! I hardly ever have to open a manual anymore. Just pop on to the wedz and find someone who has already documented the process :thumbsup:
 
#3 ·
Ok so I saw a few vids and it doesn't look bad at all. One question though how can I tell if I need to resurface or change the rotors? I'm contemplating just changing. Them out as buying a new set of rotors and brake pads is still cheaper the. Having Firestone just replace the pads. If I do change the pads & rotors can you guys give me some brands that are better then others? Right now I'm looking at AutoZone & Advanced Auto which both have stores in my area.
 
#4 ·
Actually I have a couple of extra questions, how can you tell if you need to replace or resurface the rotor? Is there a tool to measure it, etc? In addition since I don't have a way to resurface a rotor and the cost of a new one is about $50, wouldn't it just be smarter to go ahead and change it if it needs resurfacing? I will probably still be ahead of what the mechanics around here charge...
 
#7 ·
Ok just thought of one more question. What ton jack do I need? Can I safely use the jack that's in the car and if so what is that rated at? I'm curios as I'm pricing out the parts and tools I need to do the job Vs. taking it somewhere...
 
#8 ·
DANG! I went to Sears during lunch to get a price on a jack and a 4 ton jack is $200 not to mention $80 for a torque wrench. If I add Tools & parts I'm now close to $500. Ugh, I know that the tools would be good for future work, etc but I had hoped to keep costs down since I just bought the truck. I don't suppose anyone knows a garage in Cary/Raleigh Durham area that would rent me the use of a lift and tools? I know it's a long shot but I figured I'd ask.

MM
 
#9 ·
Use the jack that came with the truck and use a block of wood as a jack stand. Use the lug wrench that is there too.Just recheck the lugs after about 100 miles. Don't have to go all out just to do a brake job :thumbsup:
 
#10 ·
Uhm, am I missing something? I looked under the passenger seat and see what should be a jack for the truck. However I can't imagine that little can looking thingy being enough to lift 4 tons???

MM
 
#11 ·
Uhm, am I missing something? I looked under the passenger seat and see what should be a jack for the truck. However I can't imagine that little can looking thingy being enough to lift 4 tons???

MM
Torin Garage Jack — 2 1/2-Ton, Model# T82501 | Floor Jacks| Northern Tool + Equipment
129.00
3 ton Steel Heavy Duty Floor Jack with Rapid Pump®
on sale 90.00
No sence in spending $$$$ for a jack you won't use everyday.
Both Harbor Freight and Northern Tool have many others to choose from and prices all over the board. Same goes for a torque wrench if you want one.
Yes that is the jack for these trucks, luckily it ONLY (??) has to lift 2 tons at a time.
One thing to watch with cheap$$ (inexpensive) rotors is they are not "lightweight". meaning they do NOT have as much material in them as the originals/OE. less material/steel, less mass to dissapate heat. They don't last as long and could/probably will warp faster.
If they aren't down to the rivets I'd just toss a set of pads on and be done.
Put some disc brake quiet http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ac...ake-quiet/_/N-268d?itemIdentifier=348169_0_0_ on the back of the pads, helps stop that annoying squeal. That might be all that is going on now. Pretty good chance of it, happened to me before.
 
#12 ·
RD, I'm a bit confused about the weight per the towing guide I see that the curb weight for the front / rear is 3961lbs. So wouldn't I need a 4 ton jack for that?

Thanks
MM
 
#15 ·
RD, I'm a bit confused about the weight per the towing guide I see that the curb weight for the front / rear is 3961lbs. So wouldn't I need a 4 ton jack for that?

Thanks
MM
You're only lifting one wheel/side at a time.
I've used a 1.5 ton for lifting the entire rear at once (jacked up in the center) without a problem. Front.....1.5 ton will BARELY lift one side. But then again I have a little more weight (4x4 vs. 2x4).
Rear isn't the problem it's the front (engine weight).
If you want to know exactly what it weighs (front/rear/total) drive it across a set of scales. Only costs a few $$. I just went across the scales with my truck and it came in at (IIRC, don't have the slip in front of me) 8300-8400# total.
 
#13 ·
Hi All,

What about simply blowing out the wheels with an air hose, or applying some kind of lubricant, etc?

MM
Heh,
Reminds me of a story about a fella that had an old motorcycle with drum brakes. They squealed real bad so he took the drums off and greased them up real good. Stopped the squeal, but he rode right through the stop sign at the bottom of the hill from his place.
:rof

Chris
 
#16 ·
Ahh, OK thanks that makes sense... Unfortunately I don't think I'll have the time to do it myself this go around. We are going to the beach on Sat & I have it scheduled at Firestone for 11:00 AM tomorrow. They will charge $170/axel to replace the pads (I know, OUCH) but considering it would cost me at least $100 for a jack, about $80 for a torque wrench & $50 for the pads I guess I'm in the same boat no matter which way I cut it.

That said anyone know what brand Firestone uses for pads, are they any good? What about rotor's should it come to that?

Thanks
MM
 
#18 ·
Ahh, OK thanks that makes sense... Unfortunately I don't think I'll have the time to do it myself this go around. We are going to the beach on Sat & I have it scheduled at Firestone for 11:00 AM tomorrow. They will charge $170/axel to replace the pads (I know, OUCH) but considering it would cost me at least $100 for a jack, about $80 for a torque wrench & $50 for the pads I guess I'm in the same boat no matter which way I cut it.

That said anyone know what brand Firestone uses for pads, are they any good? What about rotor's should it come to that?

Thanks
MM
I would recommend having them check the pad thickness BEFORE they start throwing parts (and your $$$) at it.
IMO what you are experiencing is nothing more than typical disc brake "high frequency resonance".
Most audible wear sensors will make noise (squeal) when the brakes are NOT applies then "go silent" when the brakes are applied.
IF the pads are relatively new and no silencing material (be it shims, disc brake quiet, etc) was used during installation a high frequency vibration is/can be induced (the squeal you hear) when the brakes are lightly applied. The noise goes away when the brakes are applied moderately harder as the increased braking pressure does not permit the brake pad to vibrate/oscillate/squeal.
Front brakes should normally last 75-100k miles under moderate/normal use (NOT towing all the time).
IF the brake pads are relatively new (sneaking suspision they are) have 'em clean the pads, put some disc brake silencer on the back (slang term commonly used is "anti-squeal") of the pads. go on down the road.
If you are so inclined go outside with a flashlight and look at the pad thickness. New is about 1/2" thick. No need to jack up the truck and take off the wheels.
:)
 
#17 ·
I don't know what they use but I would ask before the work is done. In the repair shop i used to work at they always installed Wagner brake pads and have used them on my vehicles also. As for rotors unless you are going for higher performance just use the "white box" rotors. Most rotors made now are soft and ware out just as fast as the pads. I don't have mine turned I just replace them they simply slip on on the 2wd so its not worth the labor time to turn them. Enjoy the beach and don't worry to much about your truck :party018:
 
#19 ·
RD, as usual I think you are right! I managed to stop by a nice garage on my way home. Not a chain store, this place services Semi's, School Buses, RV's etc. They guy at the front was nice enough to come out & take a look at my pads, he used his iPhone light but stated that he didn't think there is any issues with the pads. When I got home I also took a brighter flashlight and noticed that there is plenty of pads left. Now unless the pad on the backside of the rotor is down to metal I think something else is going on. When I asked about the squeal, the guy at the garage stated they would have to experiment (i.e. look to see if the pads have some kind of excess build up, resurface the rotors, etc).

None of the places I've gone to have mentioned a disc brake silencer. Is this something that I can get at an auto parts store and put on by myself? As I type that I'm reminded that I don't have a jack, but perhaps I should get that one at Northern Tools… Anyway, is there a name brand I can look up?

Thanks
MM
 
#20 ·
RD, as usual I think you are right! I managed to stop by a nice garage on my way home. Not a chain store, this place services Semi's, School Buses, RV's etc. They guy at the front was nice enough to come out & take a look at my pads, he used his iPhone light but stated that he didn't think there is any issues with the pads. When I got home I also took a brighter flashlight and noticed that there is plenty of pads left. Now unless the pad on the backside of the rotor is down to metal I think something else is going on. When I asked about the squeal, the guy at the garage stated they would have to experiment (i.e. look to see if the pads have some kind of excess build up, resurface the rotors, etc).

None of the places I've gone to have mentioned a disc brake silencer. Is this something that I can get at an auto parts store and put on by myself? As I type that I'm reminded that I don't have a jack, but perhaps I should get that one at Northern Tools… Anyway, is there a name brand I can look up?

Thanks
MM
when i look at jacks I look for something that is sturdy. Built strong and HEAVY.
after that it's really just a hydraulic pump. :)
Flimsy is what flimsy does. Get a jack stand or 2. No need to have the truck fall (on you even worse).
Jack it up, take off the wheel, push the caliper piston(s) in (for this job they only need to go in a little bit), remove the caliper, take off the pads, clean the backside (non-friction side) apply anti-squeal, re-assemble. Repeat on the other side. Do NOT let anyone push on the brake pedal when you have the caliper off. When finished pump the brakes once or twice to extend the pistons from their bores before moving the truck.
It'll take longer to jack up the truck and remove the wheel than to perform the actual "surgery". :)
BTW, everything is metric.
Use "brake-kleen" to clean the pads, no residue.
Honestly, even IF this is the 1st time doing this it won't take an hour even if you're twisting bolts manually.
 
#21 ·
RD,

Just to make sure I'm on the same page... So this stuff : http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=348169_0_0_ is the anti-squeal ? Now I should apply this to the backside of the pads (i.e. the sides that touch the caliper). As for cleaning should I use a metal brush, brillo pad, etc?

Thanks
MM
 
#22 · (Edited)
RD,

Just to make sure I'm on the same page... So this stuff : http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=348169_0_0_ is the anti-squeal ? Now I should apply this to the backside of the pads (i.e. the sides that touch the caliper). As for cleaning should I use a metal brush, brillo pad, etc?

Thanks
MM
MM,
yup, take your pick here http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ac...rByKeyWord=disc+brake+quiet&fromString=search
they all do the same thing. (couldn't open your link, you must have been logged into your account when you copy/pasted)
put it on the caliper/piston side of the pad.
anything that will remove dirt/rust will work.
a little grease on the pad backing plate/ears where it contacts/slides won't hurt either.
RD
 
#23 ·
It could be just because you are lightly using the Brakes.
Get going about 35 mph and get on the Brakes hard, do this 2-3 times. Should clear it up.
Don't use the Brakes a little, Don't use it till you need them.
Learn to Drive the Truck.
 
#24 ·
"Learn to Drive the Truck" ? are you serious?
"Don't use the Brakes a little, Don't use it till you need them" don't remember seeing that in the owners manual anywhere.
Most people DON'T use the brakes until they need them, and most who don't usually make the 6:00 news.
How about driving ahead (how far depends on your speed) of the vehicle and planning ahead alittle bit to MINIMIZE the use of the brakes? Saves fuel, wear and tear and doesn't contribute to accidents.
 
#28 ·
Sorry, Sometimes I get a little short when the pain level goes way up.

I was fortunate to be exposed to good driving techniques before I could even drive, thanks to my Grandpa.

I have broke a few people from that type of driving, but most will continue to abuse and destroy the vehicle rather then change.
I knew 1 guy who couldn't get more then about 25-30k out of a set of Brakes. 1 foot on the Go and the other foot on the stop. Oh well more money for me.

To the OP, try the Free stuff first, then look into what is not right with a system.

You can get a good Bottle type Jack for a little money. A 5 ton will take care of all you need to work on these Trucks. I think I paid about $30 for my last one.
 
#29 ·
Sorry, Sometimes I get a little short when the pain level goes way up.

I was fortunate to be exposed to good driving techniques before I could even drive, thanks to my Grandpa.

I have broke a few people from that type of driving, but most will continue to abuse and destroy the vehicle rather then change.
I knew 1 guy who couldn't get more then about 25-30k out of a set of Brakes. 1 foot on the Go and the other foot on the stop. Oh well more money for me.

To the OP, try the Free stuff first, then look into what is not right with a system.

You can get a good Bottle type Jack for a little money. A 5 ton will take care of all you need to work on these Trucks. I think I paid about $30 for my last one.
No need to be sorry. :)
I thought that's what you meant I was (trying) to make it clear if I did intdeed understand you correctly. For the most part those kind of drivers are pretty easy to spot....front end of the vehicle usually shows so evidence of (too) close encounters!:rof Their sentences usually start with "I don't understand why.......?"
 
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