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xdm45acp's EXTREMELY slow build thread

10K views 99 replies 19 participants last post by  MikeyB 
#1 ·
well, I decided to start a build thread like everyone else. it will be very slow and my plans are constantly changing but might as well start one anyways. today I put in a new single DIN head unit with my dad from Crutchfield.com. supposedly they sent everything for a plug and play installation but it was anything but that.. my dad and I ended up having to solder a ton of the wires together and it took 2 days and the instructions for dash removal were less than helpful. its a pioneer headunit (cheapest one on crutchfield, $99, but the kit to make the steering wheel controls functional was an extra $75) that has USB, AUX, and Bluetooth audio streaming and calling. works great but I cant get the calling to work quite right on it but I've only had it in for about 5 hours. even though it was a b*tch and a half, it was a clean install.

can't get the photobucket images to upload for some reason :banghead: but heres a link

stereo_zps0349974c.jpg Photo by xdm45acp | Photobucket
 
#2 ·
I don't have Steering Wheel Controls, But I got a Single Din Sony from them and it was about an hour from start to finish for install.

Looks Good.

For Photobucket, just copy the URL link they give you and paste into your Post.

Like so:

Code:
URL=http://s98.photobucket.com/user/xdm45acp/media/stereo_zps0349974c.jpg.html]IMG]http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l248/xdm45acp/stereo_zps0349974c.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
 
#3 ·
That wasn't working for some reason and it said the file was invalid. I'll try it when I'm back at a real computer instead of my phone. I would have messed with the Bluetooth more yesterday but I was driving around and there was murder in my neighborhood so I had to go check that out first; it's like a train wreck, you know it's gonna be bad but you have to see. I would have gone with the Sony but the pioneer was cheaper. Hopefully I'll be able to use all the bedliner, plasti dip, VHT nightshades, and clear coat in a few weeks and add do the build thread
 
#5 ·
Thanks! hopefully i'll be buying a leveling kit (2" coil spacer) and dual steering stabilizer here soon but I may wait on the stabilizer until after the tie rod recall is performed (still waiting on dodge place to get parts)
 
#6 ·
alright, I need to take a little poll. I can't decide on where I want to go with the build and would like some input. this is purely looks only because I'm certain as to where I'm going with performance. keep in mind that all badging will be plasti-dipped, the grille and rear bumper will be sprayed with bedliner as well as the lower space between the tow hooks like a lot of guys with this style of bumper do, and the tail lights will have VHT nightshades sprayed on with the reverse are left white. I'm either going with...

Option A: 20x12 fuel octanes with 33" toyo m/ts on a 2" leveling kit as well as 2" wheel spacers.

Option B: 17" method NV's with 35" toyo A/Ts on the same 2" level. however, this option will later have the Carli 2.5 Pintop with full leaves and the torsion sway bar, but that is like $5k and I don't have the cash to drop on that as well as a mildly built trans, EFI live from Anarchy, a CAI and a 5" TBE. But I do have a warranty on all drive and power train not including injectors for some reason, so I may use the money from selling my backup truck for the Carli instead of performance so I don't void the 4 year warranty that expires in March of 2018 IF it does void such warranty.

basically what it comes down to is form (option A) or function (option B) and how fast I can sell my backup truck, what does and does not void the warranty, time, etc.

Thanks in advance for the input guys!!
 
#7 ·
The slow and steady builds are the best. They give you time to evaluate each change and decide where to go from there. My vote would be for the smaller tire set up.
 
#9 ·
I'd go option b even if it takes a bit longer, 35s with the leveling kit will fit good until you get the carli parts. Mostly... I just hate the looks of 20s and 33s lol just doesn't look right imo
 
#11 ·
I think 20s with 33s is a really "street truck" look which is the whole idea of the 20s option. The other is a lot more utilitarian and 20s just don't fit that style IMO I was planning on the option B for the longest time but I saw a really nice looking mega cab like mine and it got me thinking. I asked some of my buddies and my girl and all 3 said they liked option A better so it made me indecisive
 
#12 ·
34's on 20's would be better. I agree that small sidewalls on these tires look wierd.
 
#13 ·
I think I've made the suspension decision. I'll be waiting until Carli releases their 3" radius arm system and go with that, depending on the sell of the backup truck. Now it's onto wheels..

I was set on 17" method NVs for the longest time, but the method mesh is growing on me. And then comes the debate of flat black or machined. What do you guys think?
 
#17 ·
well I did this on sunday but I've been to busy to post until now. its just plasti dip incase I don't like it later on. not a bad job for a newbie to painting but definitely not perfect up close. the tail lights are 3 coats of VHT nightshades and about 6 coats of duplicolor clear coat. I can't seem to get the photos to post from my photobucket so heres a link ( I'm sure its simple I'm just not smart enough to figure it out. it says its an invalid file) :hehe:

link: xdm45acp's Library | Photobucket
 
#19 ·
Thanks! I really like the way the tails came out. I had to really lay the clear coat on thick and wet sand it a few times to get it to look glassy because it looked too flat and satin after the first round
 
#21 ·
I think it's just because I put it on too thin the first time. I taped off the reverse section before I did the Nightshades so they stayed at the stock output. It's way safer and I like the look better than all black
 
#22 ·
I love my truck, but this great engine is going to run the rest of the truck to the ground. If I could start over again, I'd go with a 4" lift with 18"s on 35" rubber. Your truck is looking good!! 2 Thumbs up!

Here are some pics of my money pit...

Ram 2500 Photos by scarfacejr111 | Photobucket
 
#24 ·
#25 ·
well dang that sure is a money pit hahaha. i'll be going with a 3" carli when I have the money. i'll get full leaves, torsion sway, etc as well because I plan on stuffing some 37" toyos under there. and I finally found the wheel with the right specs for a decent price (17" fuel off road boost with the 5.75" BS) which will give me a bit of control arm rub according to the experts at Carli. I'm also gonna do a bit of "custom" front bumper stuff because I'm missing that chrome clip on piece the Laramies have so I'm gonna get a piece of sheet metal, some black paint, and some allen head bolts and make my own.
 
#26 ·
I was out of town for about 5 weeks so I couldn't really do anything to her. While I was gone one of my neighbors bumped it with a trashcan and took off a chunk of the plasti dip so I decided to just completely debadge it, besides the cummins badge, Laramie badge, and the dodge shield on the tailgate. like always it says the file size is too big so heres a link to my photobucket instead (there's also some photos of my truck and the ABQ sunset, one of my senior pictures, and a few of a little burnout I did)

xdm45acp's Library | Photobucket

Next on the list is a Volant cold air, a rigid industries 30" SR on CJC mounts, and my dad and I will finally bedline and install the missing little chrome Laramie bumper clip with some allen head bolts for show, kinda like fake beadlock rims.
 
#29 ·
Next on the list is a Volant cold air, a rigid industries 30" SR on CJC mounts, and my dad and I will finally bedline and install the missing little chrome Laramie bumper clip with some allen head bolts for show, kinda like fake beadlock rims.
I have had good luck with the Volant Powercore intake on my truck for the past 5 years. As for the Rigid bar, I would consider the 20" SR series bar on the Rigid brackets over the 30" SR series bar on the CJC mounts. The 20" with the rigid brackets keeps the light bar tucked back into the bumper itself. If I were to bump another car or a pole while parking the light is not going to get damaged, the CJC 30" brackets appear to push the light out so it is the first thing to get hit. Here is a thread showing their various options:

http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/cjc-off-road/639681-dodge-led-light-mounting-brackets.html

I have the original 20" SR combo bar (7500lumens), it is plenty bright for anything I have used it for, the new 20" SR2 combo (9750 lumens) or SR2 Spectre (11250 lumens) should be enough. I wanted something that would light up everything on long stretches of dark highway, the original SR combo does that well. If I were going to use it in the desert or woods going slow the broad pattern of the spectre would be better as the spread is very wide and even. I have a set of Dually D2 driving that I have been considering replacing the factory fog lights with to get the broad pattern when I want it. I see that CJC has brackets that make that a bolt in solution now.

Check out the Baja Designs bars too, I think they are as good or better than Rigid and they work with a 50% dimmer when you don't need all the light.

The older I get (just turned 38) the more I realize I don't care about having a lifted truck with big tires, I just want something reliable and decent on fuel that can tow my trailer. I have my Bronco for offroad, so the Dodge is the daily driver and tow rig. Other than adding the hard tonneau cover, the Rigid 20" bar in the bumper, and the Spyntec hub kit my truck looks the same as the day I purchased it in 2008. I just put on my second set of 265/70R17 Michelin AT/2 on the stock aluminum wheels.
 
#28 ·
Thanks man! Thinkin about pickin up an NV5400 equipped 12v or an NV5600 equipped higher mileage late 2nd-3rd gen (like yours) if everything works out
 
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