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Project Black and Tan - Just another build thread

21K views 109 replies 24 participants last post by  lukethayer 
#1 ·
ok, so after nearly two years with this truck and countless hours on this forum, I decided I should start a build thread. This is probably more of a journal for me than anything, but as things progress I'm sure I'll have questions here.

So, in July of 2012 I bought this:



Unfortunately this is the only picture I have of the day I bought it.

It's a 2006 QCSB Laramie. It had about 93,000 on the clock when I got it, and looked to be pretty much a concrete queen with the occasional towing. It had never had a goose or 5th wheel installed. Looked mostly like it had been some family's go camping type truck.

For Suspension:
It had a 4" Rancho lift on it, 33" Goodyear Wrangler Duratracs, I think MB motoring 17" wheels.

For Performance:
Nothing really, just a banks intake

For Interior:
Nearly stock as I received the truck. It had monitors in the rear headrests that had never been used (plastic was still on the screens). It also had some kind of small stereo in it. There were wires for a very small amp under the drivers seat, no idea where they might have kept a sub though. In either case, the stereo was all gone.

And so the journey began...
 
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#2 ·
First thing I did was to gut the interior and put a whole new stereo in.

I had pulled a bunch of gear out of my previous truck that would ultimately go in this one, with a few upgrades.

The build list:

Lots of Dynamat
Pioneer double din head unit
Infinity Kappa ONE amps (2 amps)
Infinity Kappa FOUR amp
Infinity 3.5" for the dash
Infinity 5.25" for the back doors
Infinity 6x9" for the front doors
Alpine 10" Type R Subs (2 subs)
Rockford Fosgate 10 Farad Capacitor
New nav bezel
Assorted distribution blocks, connectors, RCAs, and about 20' of 0 ga power wire.


I gutted the interior and layed Dynamat all over the floor, back wall, and up the doors to the window. I chose not to do the roof at this time. I don't have pictures of this, but there's nothing amazing to see.

Speakers and everything went in. Amps went behind the back seat, and for the time being subs went in a regular ported box I had, sitting on the back seat.

Cap went in the bottom of the center console, and I refinished the nav bezel and door inserts to something other than wood grain. I HATE wood grain.

Started as this:


And now this:




And the Cap:
 
#3 · (Edited)
next began the war on Chrome. I despise chrome, makes me wonder why the hell I bought a Laramie, but oh well.

My Laramie (and I assume all of them from this year) had chrome in the front bumper, chrome grill and inserts, chrome bug deflector, chrome bumpers on the doors, and chrome rear bumper. It also had a brushed aluminum fuel door, though I'm uncertain if this was a dealer installed option or if the previous owner added it. Waaaaaaayy too much chrome for me.

For the time being, I decided to use plastidip to cover all the chrome. A couple words on this stuff...general I like plastidip. Unless you're using it in a place that would get stepped on or something, it works out pretty well. As you'll see below, I did my nerf bars in plastidip, and it started peeling off immediately. I have since recoated them in a bed liner that is holding up much better. Ultimately, I will ditch these side steps for the ones I really want (nfabs), but for now this works. Also, plastidip doesn't come off as easily as people like to suggest. It took several hours and some blisters to get it off those nerf bars. Anything power tool would just heat it up and smear it, so I was left with rubbing it off little by little.

Here's with the lower part of the front done with plastidip:



And the entire grill, inserts too:




In the process of removing the side bumpers:


Side View, Nerfs plastidipped and door bumpers removed:



Rear bumper before and after plastidip:



The wheels didn't get done until much later due to laziness and it was hot here. I didn't get any in process pictures but here's one of the wheels dipped. It's super dirty here, but oh well.


Also, somewhere along the way, between most of the dipping and finally doing the wheels, I cracked open my headlights and blacked them out inside:



The fuel door stayed until the SRT-10 hood change, see below.
 
#8 ·
next began the war on Chrome. I despise chrome, makes me wonder why the hell I bought a Laramie, but oh well.

I'll update this soon.
:agree2: I still can't believe I got the most chromed-out one they had. just spent about $100 on supplies to de-chrome. did you just spray over the wood grain? looking to do the same to mine. if so, what paint did you use?
 
#4 · (Edited)
In the midst of all the dipping done above, I added an Insight CTS with expandable EGT probe.



I used the SRT-10 style pillar and gauge pod mount for it. I found that I had to put some epoxy in it to get it to stay put correctly. Not sure if I had a defective pillar our mount, but there wasn't much for the mount to grab in the gauge hole. Now I've had it out on a couple off road trips and never an issue with the CTS moving.
 
#5 · (Edited)
In January of 2013, my girlfriend and I were heading up into the mountains for her birthday for a couple days. We chose to take my truck rather than her 4runner, turned out to be a mistake! In reality, this probably just accelerated the inevitable though.

I noticed before leaving town that the transmission was shifting a little odd. More weird than it's normal shuttle shifting. I checked the fluid, and sure enough it was low. Topped it up, and that seemed to fix it, so off we went up the mountain.

Drove fine all the way. headed up the mountain I had it on cruise at about 65 the whole way to Payson (about an hour NE of Phoenix). When I pulled into payson and up to a stop light, it wouldn't come out of gear! The truck nearly stalled pulling up to the light, then after that it only had first and second gear, and shortly after that only first. Pulled into a locally recommended transmission shop for diagnosis, and they determined that something had failed inside the transmission (big surprise), though they couldn't be sure what without removing the tranny.

Now, up to this point I'd already been researching putting a build tranny in the truck, I just wasn't prepared to do it yet.

So I sold this:

Sad, sad day. :banghead::banghead::banghead:

To pay for this:


Garmon Stage II.

I also added a Mag-Hytec double deep pan, sensors for my CTS (boost in the intake horn, tranny temp at the torque converter) and replaced the rear main seal while I was in there.

Out with the old:


Painted the xfer case to match the rest of the tranny:


In with the new:




It was a fairly easy swap technically. The only issue I had was getting the shifter to agree with what gear things were in. Took some research, but eventually Cerberusiam pointed me to the adjustment under the dash for the linkage.

First impression of the transmission: WOW. Shifts were far better than with the stock tranny, much firmer and quicker. And holy crap did it hit hard when the TC locked up. It's almost like having a 5th gear.
 
#6 · (Edited)
Next up was some suspension work.

I had two things going on that the average shop couldn't seem to resolve. The first was that I had a pretty good pull to the left, and the second was a clunking sound when turning the wheel.

So a trip down to see Craig at Strapt Performance was necessary. For the pull, Craig suggested that my tires might have a natural pull, so we put in one of Carli's new stainless body steering stabilizers. The clunk turned out to be a trashed busing in the track bar, so in went one of Carli's adjustable bars. Was the full replacement bar necessary? probably not, we could have just put a new bushing in there I guess, but given that I already knew I might be changing suspension stuff, putting in an adjustable to accommodate whatever the future may hold seemed smart.

Craig also noted that my ball joints were getting a little loose. They weren't toast, but they were running out of time. We didn't do anything about it at that time, but a couple months later, I got these from the guys at Strapt:



Then, in July or August, I had craig install the ball joints along with some new hub assemblies from Timken. We did not do the u-joints though. I had intended to, and the plan going into the job was to replace them with spicers, but once in there Craig said the joints looked great, so we left them in.
 
#7 · (Edited)
This past fall, after doing the ball joints, hubs, track bar, stabilizer, alignment, etc, I could tell that my steering box was getting sloppy. I could turn the steering wheel a few inches before any resulting turn to the tires.

At this time, I was getting ready to make the drive up to the northwest to go elk hunting and planning on spending a couple grand doing it, so I wasn't ready to swallow another $1k to do what I really wanted with the steering box, which was either the mopar box or a red head. So I made the decision to go with a reman from autozone, and boy did I regret it.

Getting the work done wasn't too horrible. I wish I had a lift, but I made due. The good part was that this box took almost no effort to turn the tires, even at a stand still. The bad part was yet to come...

I also messed up my clock spring during this job. See this thread for more info: http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/3rd-gen-non-powertrain/709401-srs-clock-spring.html

I got to Portland, hung out for a couple days, then started to head to Eastern Oregon to elk camp, and I had my first experience with Death Wobble. Remember, all of the 'typical' contributing components had been replaced with new, very high quality parts less than 6 months before. This occurrence of DW blew one of the fluid lines off the new steering box, prompting a 6-7 mile walk back to Pendleton, OR to find ATF+4. Oddly, finding that stuff in Pendleton on a Sunday isn't the easiest thing in the world. We tried several gas stations and 'parts stores' before finally getting far enough into town to find a NAPA open on Sunday. Then back to the truck with enough fluid to fill the box twice. In hindsight, we were damn lucky that we were only a few miles outside of Pendleton. A couple hours further down the road and I probably wouldn't even be able to get AAA out there to help let alone walk back to town.

After two more occurrences of DW on the way to La Grande, we finally camped out over night, and waited for a local tire shop to open up who we were told would probably be the best place to go for this because pretty much every farmer for miles brings their dodges to this place. Each time we had the DW, the fluid line blew off the box again. He found the track bar bushing shot, and he found that one of the tie rod ends was a little too loose for his liking and replaced both, then sent us on our way. At this point I was back to an OEM bushing in the Carli track bar, because in BFE that's all he had. This got me through elk hunting, and back to phoenix a couple weeks later, so I thought we had taken care of this.

I'd like to note here that both Craig at Strapt, and Dan at Carli were extremely helpful trying to help me troubleshoot this. Craig answered his phone on a Sunday (who does that anymore????) to help out, and even dropped a new bushing in the mail for me the very next day. Dan at Carli called me on Monday while my truck was in the shop to offer his advice as well. I will be forever greatful for both of their service.

Then, after returning to phoenix, it happened again, and the line blew off again. So back to Strapt I go. After nearly an entire day of looking, the only thing definitive we found was that the track bar bushing was shot, again. So in with a new carli bushing. Craig (both of them were under my truck and/or driving it for a good portion of the day) also ultimately adjusted the toe as it was out a bit. After getting it to wobble once during the day, blowing the line again, Craig checked everything over as thoroughly as possible, and with the bushing and toe adjustment sent me on my way. When it was all done, the only thing Craig charged me for was the bushing and install on that. After spending all day messing with it. Again, can't say how much these guys rock.

Following my visit to strapt, I also had the balance checked on the tires, and found that one of the fronts was about half a pound out of balance. They did a full alignment at the same time. Following that and all the work that Strapt did, I've yet to have a recurrence of Death Wobble. I can't say for sure which thing was the culprit, the steering box that couldn't hold the lines on, the track bar bushing, the toe, or the balance. If I had to guess, I'd say that the bushing was probably trashed by the death wobble, not the cause. The rest of it probably all added up to allowing the wobble to happen.

I've since replaced the steering box with the Mopar unit, and no more issues. So far...

Also, the Craigs just about nailed the toe in their shop using a tape measure. I know Toe isn't all that difficult to adjust, but after the computer alignment at the shop later, their adjustment was almost dead on, and needed no further adjustment. Nicely done Craigs!

k, sorry for all the words and no pics, but I didn't get any of all this, and it was a long drawn out experience.
 
#9 · (Edited)
So now to the first 'fun' thing I got to do to this truck. SRT-10 hood, and some related goodies. :party018:

Here was the truck before:











So since I bought the truck, I've had my eyes on the SRT-10 hoods, and color matched door handles. I've also never been a huge fan of how the grille looked being solid black. It was infinitely better than the chrome, but I felt that it made the front end look pretty 'heavy'.

About a year ago, I picked up a hood from another member on here.



]

I also ordered handles and a new grille from LMCTruck, Got some nice black billet grill inserts, and got a fuel door off ebay:




And here's everything back from the body shop:





Handle comparison:



And done:





The truck is dirty in the done pictures, as usual (it's awefully dusty here :doh:). My plan this weekend is to wash it, clay bar it, and give it a fresh coat of wax, then try to get some really good pictures to show off.

ok, that's it! That's current through today
 
#10 · (Edited)
So this post is about future plans. Obviously, given that it took me two years to do the above, it's going to be some time before all this is done. In that time, it's likely that the plans will change as new products come out, my direction changes, or life just gets in the way, but as it stands right now:

Next on the list is EFI Live. Should happen in the next couple months (Phil, take note :thumbsup:)

After that, I think there's going to be further work to the suspension. The ride on this rancho setup sucks. I'm thinking of piecing together a carli backcountry 3", but with the full rear packs. I think I can make it work to buy it in pieces so it doesn't hit the wallet as hard, plus I already have the track bar.

Beyond that, the order is totally up in the air, but here's the list of things I know of:

Exterior:
Front and rear bumpers, probably Iron Bull with Winch and associated lights.
Line-x or equivalent the rockers, flares, and recondition the bed liner that came with the truck.
New wheels and tires. I want to go to an 18 or 20", but for the cost, I may stick with 18".
Interior:
Some stereo upgrades, in part to also upgrade my girlfriends car.
Custom center console cause the one in our trucks sucks IMO
Seats, maybe 4th gen or Corbeau
Fix the sagging headliner and dynamat the roof.

Engine:
Garrett Compounds, something like a GT37 and GT42. I'm looking for no more than 650 hp.
BBI Stage 1 Injectors
Arson Kit (or whatever they're calling the new one) or a better single CP3
Some kind of lift pump
Filter/Water Sep. I probably will piece my own together rather than going with a FASS, but we'll see.
Misc supporting things

And who knows what else.....haha

This is not intended to be a complete exhaustive list, but something to make sure I keep some kind of direction here!
 
#13 ·
I think I only used one for all three pieces. It's been almost a year an a half though, so I could have used 2.
 
#15 ·
If only I was a Guinness drinker... oh well

The trans was $6k shipped to my door, including return shipping for the core.

Here's the specs: Garmons Diesel Performance, Inc.

Looks like the price has gone up a few hundred, but they've also added the bigger pan and the bigger input shaft, which wasn't even an option when I bought mine a little over a year ago. It also looks like their warrantying their shafts now, which I don't think was the case when I bought mine. I'd have to look at my paperwork on that.
 
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#16 ·
Thanks! :thumbsup:
 
#18 ·
It's slow going. For the amount of money I have into this thing I feel like it should be way better. lol but, I can't throw money at it like some of the people on here are able to.

oh well, all in time...
 
#20 ·
thanks! I'm totally loving it. Wish I had been able to get it done sooner...
 
#21 ·
I spent half of Friday, and a couple hours this morning running a clay bar and 2 coats of wax on the whole truck, except for the newly painted parts per the body shop's instructions.

I also touched up the plastidip on the wheels a bit, it was starting to show some of the chrome through.

Enjoy! I certainly do :thumbsup:








Now that this part is done, I think the next thing to get done to the outside is going to be the headlights. It's hard to tell from the pictures, but they are kind of hazy, especially on top. Thank you Phoenix sun.

I haven't nailed anything down for sure yet, but I'll be getting some kind of headlights for the 07s so I don't have the orange bar, and retrofitting projectors and HIDs in there. I'm leaning toward retro solutions, but haven't settled on headlights yet. I might just get some of the black Depo ones and black out the rest of the chrome inside.

This won't happen until after the EFI live though.
 
#32 ·
Been a while since I posted in my own thread....

Not a whole lot to add other than I put on some new shocks. I had been dealing with this awful ride where the truck would feel like the whole rear end was going to bounce out from under me when going over small repetitive bumps (like a bridge that's not poured very flat, or one particular freeway interchange ramp that's not done very smoothly and I have to take every day on the way to work :doh: ). After talking with some folks on here, as well as asking the advice of the guys at Carli, I settled on some Carli Backcountry 2.0s...









The ride is much improved, still rides like a 4 ton truck on bricks, but at least I'm not afraid to drive to work anymore. :hehe:
 
#33 ·
Now for my latest 'little' project... New Center Console!!

Here's the reasons for doing this...

The center console in this truck is just about useless for me besides being a dumping bin for all the random crap I keep in the top part.

The cup holders suck at life.

I have 3 amps behind the back seat and was never very happy with that location.

I find myself consistently not having enough places to charge things

I often plug in a power inverter that's awkward when plugged in.

there's no nice place to mount my trailer brake controller without drilling holes in my dash somewhere

I never use the jump seat, so all that is just wasted space.



So, console came out, time to build one that's more to my liking....
 
#34 ·
I had a few requirements for my new console for things I want now, and to be prepared for things I will add in the future.

1) needs to store all 3 amps and the capacitor for the stereo.
2) needs to house a power inverter
3) needs cup holders that I can actually fit my cups into
4) needs a place to mount my trailer brake
5) needs a place to mount a variety of switches
6) needs a place to mount gauges for future OBA and airbags
7) needs to add cup holders for rear passengers, as well as charging ability
8) needs to mount to existing mounting points. i.e. no new holes drilled anywhere.
9) needs to keep me fully occupied/entertained through my whole 2 weeks off around Christmas rather than sitting at home drinking beer, watching football, and eating everything in site.

I'm sure there's others that I'm forgetting too and I'll add them if I think of it.

This will likely be a project taking many months to complete start to finish, but I'll keep it chronicled here so I can remember what the heck I did, and maybe provide some ideas to those around here that might be interested in tackling such a project themselves...
 
#35 ·
Step one: Mock up

If you've ever looked at the floor of your truck under the center console then this might seem somewhat wasteful, but if you have, you know the floor is not even close to flat under there. It has angles, changing levels, bumps, all sorts of things.

On top of that, I want this console to be a bit more like the business consoles that go all the way up to the dash, but that's not a flat surface either.

So, I had my girlfriend bring home some big sheets of cardboard from work, and off I went making cardboard mock ups of this thing...



In this picture, the bottom edge of the cardboard is cut to follow the contour of the floor, as well as go over the mounting points of the original console so that I can build in provisions to re-use those mounts.


And here's the mostly done up mockup, at least with both sides and the beginnings of the top:

 
#36 ·
Here's the plan as it stands now...

Starting from the left of the last picture...

The short platform at the farthest left tucks in under my Fox Acoustics sub box. This sub box is the reason for needing cup holders in the back, it covers the factory ones.

The next section, before the angled surface will be the cup holders for the rear, and underneath those will be space to house the capacitor for the stereo (it's shaped like a small amp rather than the cylinders you typically see. need to ensure that anything spilled in the cup holders can't find it's way to the cap below

The big angled wall is the same as the back of the existing console, and follows the same angle of the seats as I use them. Of course, if someone gets in and sits like a grandpa straight up and down, it won't be the same anymore. On the back of that surface somewhere will be a 115v outlet powered by the inverter, a 12v socket, and a set of USB chargers.

In the top of that section I will reuse the storage compartment and flip up lid from the first console, at least for now. I may eventually build my own up there just so I can sell my factory console intact, but for now I'll re-use it.

Inside that section will be the 3 amps for the stereo. The amps are all alpine PDX series amps and designed to stack on one another, so they will fit nicely in there. One 4 channel (PDX-F4) and 2 mono blocks (PDX-M12) for the subs.

On the top of the next section, where it steps down from the tallest part, will be a variety of switches for all sorts of accessories, cup holders, USB chargers, 115v outlets from the inverter, gauges for the OBA and airbags, the trailer brake controller, and just some flat space to set things.

On the sides of that same section will be some map storage nets.

Inside that section will be the power inverter and all the fuses and electrical distribution for the whole mess. (the more I plan this the more intense this section gets...:banghead:)

Finally, the whole thing will be finished in some kind of black leather (maybe from the 4th gens) with some kind of tan accents or stitching to keep with the black and tan theme...
 
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