Does anyone know what the cooler located on the drivers side of the block is called, it is behind the ECM and above the starter it has 2lines hooked up and 2 threaded nipples one line comes out of the block and one runs into the firewall
When it fails it contaminates the engine & transmission with coolant and tranny fluid. This failed on the drive over to the trans shop to install some valve body mods, thought we caught it early enough so a rebuild was not needed... $600 to bypass the heat exchanger, flush the trans plus 4 drain & fills on my part (oil not included in that $1900 so it's really even higher) and 6000 miles later we dropped the pan for service and found clutch material in the pan. The trans guy gave me a deal on labor because of what we tried to accomplish previously and just had me pay a flat R&R rate for the labor plus parts. I put in the Alto red eagle clutch packs and the other parts I'd been going there to install (installed free at that point) and the bill came out to $1200-$1300...
After that rebuild and install of the other parts that trans was in great shape, stayed in great shape with fluid changes every 30k (royal purple AT fluid) and an aux cooler above the rear driveshaft.
Unrelated but worth mentioning... Last week I sold it to a guy semi local (~200 mi south of me) who had his trans failing on him. Saw that I was about to do a swap and a few texts later plus a test drive and he wanted it. Last week he did the swap (I'm now a 6sp manual) and called the next day to tell me he'd seen his mpg increase by 6 mpg on the ride home... his old trans always gave him 12ish mpg and did the same on the drive up for the install. On the way home he hand calculated (as always) 18+ mpg. He mentioned his truck (one owner) had always given him crappy mpg (MC 4x4 with 4.5" lift & heavy wheels) and was shocked by the change.
edit: Oh yeah, forgot to mention the headache I had getting the engine cleaned out... I could not find a radiator shop willing to take it in to do the flush. Ended up at a mom & pop type of oil change place that I'd gone to many times in the past. Did 3 full flushes there which was about $100 total, this was also with me doing my own flushes at home and having to rig up a way of sucking the milkshake type of gunk off the top of the radiator since it was floating (oil & water)... took me a ton of time to get this sorted out. Do yourself a favor and go bypass the heat exchanger.
edit #2: FWIW, to get the gunk out I bought a cheap vacuum pump, took a 1 gallon water jug and cut some holes in the top so I could fit clear tubing thru it, created a vacuum inside the jug with the pump which sucked out the gunk from the top of the radiator. Took a over a week (if not more) to get it all out.
Thank you, we'll I had another question but I believe you answered it, I'll ask anyway, so if I put this motor to a NV5600 there is no need for this part and all I have to do I take it off and plug the ports, this was a motor swap and there was a auto trans attached to it, my motor was stolen at the rebuild shop and it was attached to the existing manual. Thank you very much
correct... no need for it. I believe there is a block off plate on the MT motors, since mine was on there already I just left it. If I drain the coolant I may remove it and install the block off plate but it's not necessary.
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